Using the Wrangler as a daily commuter is a personal preference. I've owned my fair share of trucks and the bouncy ride of my Wrangler doesn't bother me at all. What does occasionally get to me is the poor handling in wind - part of my commute goes through an area that is normally windy, and it is noisier than most vehicles.
We used our Wrangler (a '98 Sport) as a daily driver for about 6 months. We ended up getting a 2WD Tacoma that I dislike intensely because of the gas mileage. While the Taco is quieter, and better in the wind, I would choose the Wrangler on any long trips because the seats are so much more comfortable.
We still use the Wrangler for commuting when the weather gets bad - we occasionally need 4x4 to get out of our driveway in winter. My commute is 75 miles one way, and involves an elevation difference of almost 6,000 feet. My '98 has over 115,000 miles on the odometer. The engine has been bomb proof - what has gone wrong with it has been the exhaust manifold (redesigned back a couple of years ago), the dash gauges (intermittant problem, there's a TSB out on it and I just haven't bothered to get it fixed yet), and the air conditioning (probably needs servicing, again haven't bothered checking this one out). Also, my tail gate rattles when the screws vibrate loose. That's all.
My 2000 Tacoma has had an intermittent tranny problem (dealer can't duplicate), a defective radiator (replaced under extended warranty), wouldn't start once (never did figure our why), and has the most uncomfortable seats of any vehicle I've ever owned. I would be happy to dump it and go with just the Wrangler, but I owe far more than it is worth.
It is an individual thing. Test drive one and see for yourself. It isn't for everyone, and you do have to be willing to give up some "creature comforts."
Don't use a pressure cleaner. Either a regular garden hose, or use a lawn sprinkler on the end of one. Park over the top then move it the length of the vehicle over the period of several hours. Sounds crazy but it works!
twylie, I had the clutch fixed today and it no longer clicks. It is not as easy to push down and feels like it wants to spring back when engaged but operates fine. I'm guessing that they tightened up something and will have a little more give given time. Per the sheet that they gave me they opened up the ticket on "shifting feels stiff" - when I really opened it on the clicking of the clutch. I think they got confused because I had them check several things when I went in for my 3000 mile checkup. One of them was difficulty shifting which turned out to be the fact that it's a Jeep and that it doesn't shift like a car. However, I noticed the clutch clicked when I left the dealership and turned around and had them check it. Anyway, the form states that they replaced the following: "1 52107652AD HYD CTRL-CLUTCH ACTUATOR" Beneath that it states "traced to clutch pedal binding - removed and replaced clutch master and slave assembly." The weekend of the 25th I'm heading to Maine so I'll let you know if the clicking returns.
thanks for the update. Hope it fixed the issue and doesn't return.
I'm envious of anyone taking a trip to Maine in the summer. We rented a 'vert Mustang on our first trip up there and every trip since, I keep thinking "wish we had the Jeep instead of this rental car...".
May I ask what year you have and which engine? Does your trans grind at all when shifting between gears? As I have been posting here, I have an '03 with the 2.4L and therefore the NV1500 trans. Am now on my 3rd trans in 3,800 miles. If yours is the same, I wouldn't rush to buy the "just shifts like a Jeep" line. Have them drain the fluid and look for brass grindings as mine had.
Hey all, found a 98 sahara edition, whats the difference between the sahara and the sport. It's a 98 with 19000 miles on it. going to pick it up on monday...cant wait!!! just a little info on the sahara though..thanks a lot
The three speed auto is a pretty robust unit; some off roaders prefer it over the manual for some types of terrain. My main gripe with it is the lack of an overdrive top ratio. As a result, the engine sounds pretty busy at highway speeds. The new four speed O/D in the '03 looks like a good unit but long term reliability has not been established. Personally I prefer the manual, but there's really no right or wrong answer regarding TJ transmission choices.
Sounds like a nice rig, with little miles for that old of a vehicle. Do check the exhaust manifold - I have a '98 (Sport) and ended up (like many others) having to replace it. Also, certain ones had problems with the dash gauges (see my previous posts on the subject). It isn't that big of a deal, and there is a TSB out on them, but be aware that it was a problem with some '98 models.
By the way, my '98 got a wash today. I took it to a car wash that has pretty good water pressure and noticed that the weather stripping around the back is really dried out and needs to be replaced. Anyone with any experience doing something like that themselves? I'm sure that this is mostly due to the climate I live in. Most of our wet stuff falls as snow - it rarely rains up here, and the humidity is normally really low.
I have a '03 4.0L standard. And it really was just a matter of learning to shift a Jeep vs a Toyota. Occasionally I would not shift in sync and it was a matter of adjusting to the personality of the Jeep. I also checked with a friend of mine who has owned a Jeep since '98 and she agreed that it took her about 6 months to get used to the shifting. I'm shifting much smoother now. The Toyota gears seem to shift faster then the Jeep but no grinding anymore and I'm at 5000 miles.
All the info, pros & cons, etc., have been a great help to me. I think for now, I'm probably going to stick w/the car idea (a loaded Mazda6 - big grin!) and then in a year or two if I want a toy I'll get a Jeep to cruise around in on the weekends. I need to think in gas mileage terms w/my commute and I'm not seeing myself getting it all muddy (darn it, I like mud & I'm a girl!) and I guess I'm thinking I'd like a cushy ride ;-) You guys/gals are great - thank you again.
You're welcome to stop by this board on occasion, especially if you have further questions about Wranglers in general. You are making a thoughtful decision, and I hear you about the gas mileage - that's one of those things I wish were better about the Wrangler. However, I've been trying to come up with a replacement for my (hated) Taco and everything that has the power to get up the hill either is a turbo (WRX or Forester XT) or a 6 cylinder. Believe it or not, the turbos using premium gas end up working out a bit cheaper than the 6 cylinders, and the 6 cylinders only get at the most a couple of mpg more than the Wrangler does. One of several reasons why I'm still driving that Taco!
One last thing - Wrangler fever never goes away. I first got it many years ago and while I bought and sold a number of vehicles, I kept wanting one. Now that I have one, I'll always have one, though I might have other vehicles at the same time.
We finally started the upgrade process. We took out the worn carpet on my daughter's 97 TJ SE. We went from tan to black - ordering from JCWhitney. Installed it Saturday. Took a while to get the seats and console out (didn't want to break anything). With the tan doors/dash/seats, I have to say it looks pretty cool!
We next plan to do the stereo and soundbar installation, then replace the fading top with the sailcloth, and get two tone seat covers (tan/black). I will post some pictures of the carpet if anybody cares.
It also turns out that the valve cover leak wasn't a valve cover leak at all. If the dealer had bothered to look or clean the engine, you could tell it was just spillage from the last oil fill. I cleaned the engine a month ago and there is yet to be any leaking. One less repair to do.
New wheels coming for Christmas for her!
Now if I could just find an I-6 and Dana 44 laying around.... hhmmm....
My daughter told me last night about a rattling noise while she was driving her 97 TJ SE. I started it up (at about 8:30 - dark) and heard it. I took a towel and held the exhaust pipe (near the passenger door) and the rattling subsided.
Would this be indicative that the car has the exhaust manifold issues mentioned here earlier or should I just tighten the bolts along the exhaust? I plan to look at more tonight or tomorrow, but wanted to run it past you guys here first.
I've been car shopping for several months now. I have test drove over 3 dozen vehicles and I keep coming back to the Wrangler as a potential vehicle. I currently drive a '02 Grand Cherokee (getting 13mpg, so mileage might be an upgrade with the Wrangler). The wife has a Liberty, which we like better than the GC. I have a short commute to work and will use it off-road during the hunting seasons. I have a 5-year old which leads to the question, anybody have a problem with getting little ones in and out of the back seat? I am looking at the dual-top option. Is it worth it?
It depends on where you live. If you live where it gets cold and snowy in the winter, I would absolutely go with the dual top. If it stays relatively mild, I would actually go with half doors and get sliders. The half doors seem much more fun than the full doors in the summer.
I live in Boston and have the dual top. I would not want a soft top in our winters, more from a visibility standpoint than cold.
I have friends that put thier kids into thier seats from the back door. For one the seat is closer than by using the front doors and the angles are right.
As for tops, go for the duals. You never will know when you will be caught in the rain with your top down in the summer and for the winter, the hard top is the only way to fly.
I am thinking of upgrading my ignition to a HO aftermarket kind on my 97 TJ. Anybody have any experience with this?
and it looks just amazingly cool. Even in that "funny" yellow color which reminds of a bodily discharge which happens when people relieve themselves. If DC decides it's time to address the quality issue, they would simply not know what to do with all the cash they'd get from people buying Rubicons.
That's how the Japanese are grabbing the market share - quality cars. Boring, underpowered and not as luxurious compared to similar American vehicles, but of a higher quality. And that's all she wrote, folks
Hello All! I have been lurking on this board for quite some time. Now that I have finally caught up reading through a vast majority of the posts (this is one busy board!) I'm ready to jump in. I hail from Edmonton, Alberta (land of mad cows, badlands, mountains and everything in between). I have had my eyes on getting a Wrangler for some time now and think I am ready to take the plunge one of these days (waiting to see what the 2004 models will cost, and what incentives will be offered). Although I am still uncertain as to the model, I am leaning towards the Rubicon. You could say that I have a bit of the ol' Wrangler fever!
This would be my daily commuter as well as weekend play car (I haven't done any real off-roading as of yet, but am planning on getting into it). The fuel economy (while scary) is something I can live with as I generally don't drive all that much... probably about 10000 Km a year or less. As such I thought about getting a loaded up Sport, but really, the Rubi would offer maximum versatility and I expect the resale value (should it come to that) will be appropriately higher.
The options I am looking at: Light Khaki / Inca Gold (no longer available in 2004?) / Silver - in order of preference Options: A/C Auto-Dim Mirror Deep Tint 7 Speaker System Speed Control Dual-Top Group
- block heater is standard up in the frozen wastelands of Canada...
I wish I could find the Invoice Price in CAD$...
mtngal - first, my condolences on your loss, I've been there and it sure ain't no picnic. On a less serious note, the other vehicle I was looking at was a 4x4 Taco with the off-road group (but it seemed overpriced and far less fun). It's sort of amusing to hear your impressions of them though!
tsjay - Congratulations on the new addition to your family. I loved reading your posts where you agonized about being trading off the Grand-Prix... Whereabout are you in KY? I have a friend living in Lexington... I loved the climate and scenery down there.
Anyway, sorry about the long post! Cheers, drosketer.
OEM ignition systems are a huge improvement on those of the past. If your standard system is functioning correctly there is nothing you can replace it with that will show any benefit.
However, maintenance which consists of replacement of the wires, cap, rotor and plugs at the specified intervals, is important to its correct functioning.
However, if you just want a 'name' ignition under the hood, there are several manufacturers out there that have a system that will fit.
Lots of myths out there about ABS. Bottom line is that it will allow you to brake at maximum efficiency, especially in slick conditions, and allow you to steer at the same time. If it only saves you from a fender bender it was worth the cost.
The downside on a Wrangler is that it's only available on the D35 axle. If you intend going over 33" tires and like to bounce over rocks with your wheels spinning and slamming, this could be a problem. Otherwise, the D35 is a lot more capable than most people give it credit for.
Not sure if this applies, but a friend just bought a '97 TJ, SE model and had a bad rattling sound from the exhaust. He's in Vegas, so I never heard it, but Midas told him $370 to replace his cat and muffler... I told him to try the dealership since it has less than 60k miles. Thought it might still be under emmisions warranty. Turns out it was the cat (but not the muffler) and DC replaced the cat for FREE! Might be worth taking to the dealer if your miles aren't too high. I think the emissions warranty is good to 70k miles.
Thanks... I'll check that part out. I'm past the 70k for the emissions warranty, so I suspect I'd be paying either way. But it sure helps narrow the search.
I'm so confused. I want the 30" wheel group. I also want 4 wheel disc. And Trak-Lok. I don't really go 4 wheeling, but it seems prudent for any adverse conditions and resale. The Jeep I'm looking at is said to have all the above, except Trak-Lok.
1) I thought 4 wheel disc brakes were mated with Trak-Lok; can't get one without the other. 2) Without Trak-Lok, is the rest of the gear useless? 3) Is the standard diff. an open one? Hear those suck.
1) According to the 'New Vehicle' information here at Edmunds, this is correct. However, the combination of available options seems to change every few months.
Thanks for the quick response. I'm now wondering if the Trak-Loc is something that can be added after market for short money.
As for #2, i figured the wheels and axle are designed for off road, and the standard differential may not be.
Now, as I read the posts, you guys are making a great case for the standard axle, 225s and ABS brakes. But for 2 grand more over 60 months, why not get the 4X4 capable Jeep?
Welcome to the Board. I Got the Dual Top option for my Jeep, I figured better to have it & not need than Need it & not have it. I have 2 small children. It really isnt a problem getting them in & out. On the Hard top I just used the rear window. Keep us posted
DROSKETER. Welcome the the board too. Good to see our Canadian neighbors like Jeeps too. Keep those long post going
or anyone else who might be able to help. I have a couple of items someone might be able to help me with.
1. I have cruise control on my 2000 Sport with auto. The owners manual says 35 mph is the minimum speed. Mine is actually about 37 (could be the speedo). I would really like it to work down to 25 mph, but would settle for 30. Dealer says they can not adjust it lower. Do any of you know if there is a way to "tweak" it down or is there a chip or module I can buy that will do the job?
2. This is the first vehicle I have ever owned that I did not get better gas mileage than the window sticker estimate. I have kept very good records on every ounce of gas since it was new. At 18000 miles, my average is almost exactly 14 mpg. I see people in this group talking about 16-18 mpg. EPA sticker estimate is 15 mpg. I am a conservative right foot only driver. For reasons I will not bore you with, I suspect the fan "engages" shortly after the engine is started. Dealer won't even entertain the possibility. I think maybe they don't know how to check it. Is there a way? Could this cost me a couple of mpg?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. If anyone want's more details, I will give you my email address to keep from cluttering up this board.
Kelleyo, thanks for the link. It works out fine for old Ross Allen simply to ride in the back. He does not try to jump out (he's a very laid back kind of guy), and any time I'm doing anything the least bit risky, I make him get out and have someone keep him on his leash for me until I get through the risky stuff. I do appreciate your thinking of us, though.
1. Mine's the same. Won't engage below an indicated 37 mph. I've never heard of any tweaks to change it. I agree that it would be very useful to engage it a much lower speeds.
2. MPG is very dependant on driving habits and vehicle spec. Also on speedo accuracy and fuel measurement. Speedo is easy to check with a GPS, and easy to correct with a new speedo gear. Fuel measurement is easy but tedious. The only practical way to be consistent is to fill the tank to the neck each time. The last couple of gallons take forever (well, five minutes anyway), and it's easy to be fooled into thinking it's full the first time it spits back. Some pumps won't even let you fill to the neck.
Final gear ratio, type of transmission, use of A/C, will all make a difference. Even driving with headlights on will have an effect, as the extra load on the alternator has to be met.
I would guess that the 16-18mpg figures are from manual transmissions with high final drive ratios. I average 14mpg with a 3.73, an auto, A/C always on, and an 'smooth' driving style. I usually travel a little faster than surrounding traffic in town by anticipating lights and other drivers. Out of town I pretty much keep consistent with the flow.
You can check the fan clutch as follows (taken from the FSM), but as a new one only costs about $30 from AutoZone etc. substitution might be the way to go for peace of mind.
"TESTING If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the fan blades will revolve more than five turns when spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test must be performed when the engine is cool. For the following test, the cooling system must be in good condition. It also will ensure against excessively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8 inch) diameter hole in the top center of the fan shroud. (2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem (or equivalent). It should have a range of -18°to 105°C (0°to 220°F). Insert thermometer through the hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate clearance from the fan blades. (3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition timing light (timing light is to be used as a strobe light). (4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air conditioner condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked. (5) Be sure that the air conditioner (if equipped) is turned off.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(6) Start the engine and operate at 2400 rpm. Within ten minutes the air temperature (indicated on the dial thermometer) should be up to 88°C (190°F). Fan drive engagement should have started to occur at between 74°to 85°C (165°to 185°F). Engagement is distinguishable by a definite increase in fan flow noise (roaring). The timing light also will indicate an increase in the speed of the fan. (7) When the air temperature reaches 88°C (190°F), remove the plastic sheet. Fan drive disengagement should have started to occur at between 57°to 82°C (135°to 180°F). A definite decrease of fan flow noise (roaring) should be noticed. If not, replace the defective viscous fan drive unit.
CAUTION: Engines equipped with serpentine drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous fan drives. They are marked with the word REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in engine overheating.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan blade assembly if any of these conditions are found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft assembly for any related damage due to a viscous fan drive malfunction."
I don't check for a day and there are tons of posts. Hi to all the new people!
First, exhaust manifold. I'm not an expert or a mechanic. But I've replaced mine. It started more like a ticking noise when the engine was working hard (like going uphill at higher speeds) and ended up sounding like a very loud engine toward the end. I once had a van that I put side pipes on and did a lousy job of attaching them to the exhaust manifold coming off the engine. Every so often one of the connectors would fall off, and the exhaust would not be going through the muffler. It ended up sounding like that. If you have a rattle I would think it would be something else - maybe muffler mounts or ???
Mileage - don't necessarily go my mileage figures unless you are doing almost all highway driving. I think I figured out that there are 3 stoplights and 3 or 4 stop signs (different going home than going to work) total on my 75 mile commute. The rest is either slow-n-go or as fast as you think you can safely drive your vehicle. Since the Wrangler gets significantly lower gas mileage over 70, I rarely drive it that fast. I think the sticker had it rated at 19 or 20 highway, and that's what I get very consistently.
Tops - If I had a garage I would have wanted the dual tops. However, I don't so I just have the hard top. It is nice in the winter because it is warmer, and we do get an occasional heavy dump of snow.
Thought the dog restraint system was interesting (and had the same thought - did they REALLY roll a jeep?). Maybe if I ever get another pup I'll look at that, though I never worried too much about my hiking buddy since I always had the hard top on, and we didn't do anything difficult when he was with us.
Rubi vs. Sport? Unless I were going to be using the special features of the Rubi, I don't think I would buy one. I don't think the resale value will be so significantly higher compared to purchase price to make it worthwhile. Now, if you are planning on 'wheeling alot and want those lockers, lift and larger tires, then definitely get one. Everyone has pointed out that you would spend much more doing the mods yourself if you were to start with a Sport. Even basic Wranglers have more resale value than many cars. For instance, my '98 Wrangler is worth more than my 2000 Taco. And I don't think that the fact that the Wrangler only has over 115,000 miles on th odometer vs. the almost 119,000 miles that the Taco has makes all that much difference!
Thanks for the mention of my new granddaughter! She doing fine and really growing.
I live in western Ky, and I am about three and a half hours west of Lexington.
Get the Jeep! You won't be sorry.
Man, I can't believe you went that far back in the posts to read those where I had not yet bought Thelma Jane! You must have spent hours and hours getting caught up on the posts in here.
The Grand Prix was a fantastic car, and as I said in those posts back then, I would have loved to have kept that car and still bought a Jeep, but NO WAY I could afford to do that.
I have absolutely NO regrets about getting a Jeep. Well, just that I wish I had done it years ago. I have a vehicle that I have owned for 2.5 yrs +, and I am not one bit tired of it! For me, that is a miracle.
You live in great Jeep country, or at least very near great Jeep country. I would love to have the chance to drive a Jeep in the Canadian Rockies! How far are you from the Rockies?
I've never had a cracked exhaust manifold on any of my vehicles, so I have never tried this myself, but I have heard one way to detect the problem is to get the vehicle into a very dark location and look at the manifold from all possible angles. If there is a crack, you should be able to see the orange glow of the hot exhaust gasses.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. Guess I should have said that the engine needs to be running for this test, but I'll bet you already figured that out, huh?
I had a '94 SE with a rattle that also turned out to be the catalytic converter. Fellow at work just got the second one replaced on his Dodge PU. I believe they told me that it was warrantied up to 80k. I'd certainly call the dealer if your mileage is under that.
Is there any word whether or not Jeep will put the 3.7L from the Liberty in the '04 or '05 Wrangler? I've read they will use it on the '05 JGC, replacing the 4.0 in that model. I must admit, its a strong engine (wife has a Liberty), albeit a bit noisy.
And...thank you for the nice "welcome" here. This seems like a very, civilized and decent board, which is nice to see.
Well, after a lot of scientific research and detailed investigation ... okay so I beat on the exhaust pipe... I narrowed it down the catalytic converter, just as you guys have stated.
The rattle seems to be coming from above the skid plate, where the CC is. All mountings are secure and the pipe itself is stable. Is replacing the catalytic converter something one can do themselves? Any special tools required or would I be better off having an exhaust shop do it?
The manifold area looks fine and the rattle is definitely further back.
Tom, I was kinda in your neck of the woods a month ago. I was in Huntsville, AL and ventured up into TN to visit the Jack Daniels distillery. I know, not KY, but heck, a LOT closer than Edwards, CA.
I had to have one replaced when I had my '87 Wrangler. What a performance difference it made. I could notice the horsepower I had been losing right away.
Thanks for the warm welcome. After all that reading I am glad to see the crowd is as friendly as ever.
Bama, we definitely like Jeeps up here. Regardless of what people use them for, there are plenty around. Each as individual as their owner wants to make them, I think that is part of the appeal. Have you managed to get Tazz off the road at all yet?
Mtngal, precisely the dilemma. While I have not done any real off-roading (aside from some minor trails / service roads with a friends Sport), I am thinking that it may be something I will get into in the future. If that is the case, then it would make sense to get the Rubi rather than wait and then spend the extra dough on mods. At worst, I get a capable Jeep with heavier components that will (hopefully) last longer. You mention the rubi having a lift... I wasn't aware they factory-install one on them...
Tsjay. LOL. Yeah, reading the posts took some time, lucky for me it's sort of quiet at work these days. Let's hope the network police aren't looking too closely at my internet activity. Western KY... I passed through Bowling Green a couple of years back while visiting, took in a part of the Mammoth Cave complex while I was at it.
I am currently driving a '94 T-bird, or a land-yacht as I like to call it. Great highway cruiser, but as I live in a condo and don't have space for two cars it's going to be gone sooner than later. Oh well, it was nice living with no car payments! Still, I am seeing a progression towards bigger gas guzzlers over time. Started with a Dodge Omni years ago, eventually got the T-bird (and was amazed at how much thirstier it was), and now am looking at an even thirstier prospect. A sucker for punishment I suppose... but after taking my friends Jeep topless and doorless for a day I am hooked.
Edmonton is sort of centrally located, and all that means is that anywhere I want to go, it's likely to take 2-4 hours to get there! It's about 2 hours to get to the foothills (and apparently plenty of trails) and a further 2 to get into the Rockies. We also have some desert-like badlands about 2-3 hours away which should provide for variety in available trails. Hoping to explore them over the years with a buddy of mine and my brother.
Edmonton is a lovely place - my husband (who grew up in Flin Flon) has an uncle who lives there, and we've visited the area in pre-Wrangler days. I love the Canadian Rockies - are there very many 4x4 trails around there? All 4 of the national parks up there are incredible! In fact, I sure wish I were up there right now - it has been really hot recently and I don't have air conditioning!
If you find some really outstanding trails, email me (address is in profile). Maybe next trip up to see my in-laws (who are in Houston, B.C.) we can swing by Jasper and that area.
Since you have a real possibility of doing some real rock crawling, a Rubi might be a good idea. Those 33" (if I remember correctly - am I right or am I having a "senior moment?") tires would really come in handly.
The expensive part of replacing the cat converter is probably the part itself. Probably possible to swap it yourself, but if you run into ANY difficulties (rusted bolts, need to cut, etc.) the shop charge may be worth the cost. Any decent exhaust shop should be able to diagnose it and give you a firm estimate to replace.
As far as checking if you have a manifold leak, the only trick I know is to have someone stand at the tailpipe with a towell folded over a couple of times. With the vehicle running, have them press the folded towell over the tailpipe for 1 or 2 seconds at a time, then remove. This will "stop up" the tailpipe and force exhaust out of any holes or cracks in the system. As they close off the system, listen in the the various parts of the exhaust. If you have a leak somewhere, this may make it more evident where the problem is.
Don't close off the exhaust for more than a couple of seconds at a time or the engine may cut off (the old bannana in the tailpipe trick). Also be sure to do this outside of a garage since you need to leave the engine running.
HTH
ps - wheels, mac covered the only info I would have had to share :-)
Let's hope they don't use the V6 in the Wranglers. For offroading, you want an engine that has good torque at LOW RPMs. For the same amount of torque, I believe a V6 needs to be at higher RPMs. Mac 24??? Your comments?
Comments
We used our Wrangler (a '98 Sport) as a daily driver for about 6 months. We ended up getting a 2WD Tacoma that I dislike intensely because of the gas mileage. While the Taco is quieter, and better in the wind, I would choose the Wrangler on any long trips because the seats are so much more comfortable.
We still use the Wrangler for commuting when the weather gets bad - we occasionally need 4x4 to get out of our driveway in winter. My commute is 75 miles one way, and involves an elevation difference of almost 6,000 feet. My '98 has over 115,000 miles on the odometer. The engine has been bomb proof - what has gone wrong with it has been the exhaust manifold (redesigned back a couple of years ago), the dash gauges (intermittant problem, there's a TSB out on it and I just haven't bothered to get it fixed yet), and the air conditioning (probably needs servicing, again haven't bothered checking this one out). Also, my tail gate rattles when the screws vibrate loose. That's all.
My 2000 Tacoma has had an intermittent tranny problem (dealer can't duplicate), a defective radiator (replaced under extended warranty), wouldn't start once (never did figure our why), and has the most uncomfortable seats of any vehicle I've ever owned. I would be happy to dump it and go with just the Wrangler, but I owe far more than it is worth.
It is an individual thing. Test drive one and see for yourself. It isn't for everyone, and you do have to be willing to give up some "creature comforts."
The TJ is the body style of the Jeep Wrangler being produced. TJ production started in 97? and is the current model designation.
The YJ is the Jeep version prior to that and you can easily tell them by the rectangular headlights.
The CJ is before them.
As for Sport, Rubicon, Sahara, and X, those are Trim levels for the Wrangler (TJ body).
-Paul
"1 52107652AD HYD CTRL-CLUTCH ACTUATOR" Beneath that it states "traced to clutch pedal binding - removed and replaced clutch master and slave assembly." The weekend of the 25th I'm heading to Maine so I'll let you know if the clicking returns.
I'm envious of anyone taking a trip to Maine in the summer. We rented a 'vert Mustang on our first trip up there and every trip since, I keep thinking "wish we had the Jeep instead of this rental car...".
-twylie
By the way, my '98 got a wash today. I took it to a car wash that has pretty good water pressure and noticed that the weather stripping around the back is really dried out and needs to be replaced. Anyone with any experience doing something like that themselves? I'm sure that this is mostly due to the climate I live in. Most of our wet stuff falls as snow - it rarely rains up here, and the humidity is normally really low.
I need to think in gas mileage terms w/my commute and I'm not seeing myself getting it all muddy (darn it, I like mud & I'm a girl!) and I guess I'm thinking I'd like a cushy ride ;-)
You guys/gals are great - thank you again.
One last thing - Wrangler fever never goes away. I first got it many years ago and while I bought and sold a number of vehicles, I kept wanting one. Now that I have one, I'll always have one, though I might have other vehicles at the same time.
We finally started the upgrade process. We took out the worn carpet on my daughter's 97 TJ SE. We went from tan to black - ordering from JCWhitney. Installed it Saturday. Took a while to get the seats and console out (didn't want to break anything). With the tan doors/dash/seats, I have to say it looks pretty cool!
We next plan to do the stereo and soundbar installation, then replace the fading top with the sailcloth, and get two tone seat covers (tan/black). I will post some pictures of the carpet if anybody cares.
It also turns out that the valve cover leak wasn't a valve cover leak at all. If the dealer had bothered to look or clean the engine, you could tell it was just spillage from the last oil fill. I cleaned the engine a month ago and there is yet to be any leaking. One less repair to do.
New wheels coming for Christmas for her!
Now if I could just find an I-6 and Dana 44 laying around.... hhmmm....
-Paul
I apprecicate it Dude.
Would this be indicative that the car has the exhaust manifold issues mentioned here earlier or should I just tighten the bolts along the exhaust? I plan to look at more tonight or tomorrow, but wanted to run it past you guys here first.
-Paul
I live in Boston and have the dual top. I would not want a soft top in our winters, more from a visibility standpoint than cold.
As for tops, go for the duals. You never will know when you will be caught in the rain with your top down in the summer and for the winter, the hard top is the only way to fly.
I am thinking of upgrading my ignition to a HO aftermarket kind on my 97 TJ. Anybody have any experience with this?
That's how the Japanese are grabbing the market share - quality cars. Boring, underpowered and not as luxurious compared to similar American vehicles, but of a higher quality. And that's all she wrote, folks
Anybody have ABS on their Wrangler and is it worth the extra cost?
How long does it take to put the top down/up?
I am definetely leaning toward the dual tops (live in Michigan and it gets cold and snowy here in the winter) with full doors.
This would be my daily commuter as well as weekend play car (I haven't done any real off-roading as of yet, but am planning on getting into it). The fuel economy (while scary) is something I can live with as I generally don't drive all that much... probably about 10000 Km a year or less. As such I thought about getting a loaded up Sport, but really, the Rubi would offer maximum versatility and I expect the resale value (should it come to that) will be appropriately higher.
The options I am looking at:
Light Khaki / Inca Gold (no longer available in 2004?) / Silver - in order of preference
Options:
A/C
Auto-Dim Mirror
Deep Tint
7 Speaker System
Speed Control
Dual-Top Group
- block heater is standard up in the frozen wastelands of Canada...
I wish I could find the Invoice Price in CAD$...
mtngal - first, my condolences on your loss, I've been there and it sure ain't no picnic. On a less serious note, the other vehicle I was looking at was a 4x4 Taco with the off-road group (but it seemed overpriced and far less fun). It's sort of amusing to hear your impressions of them though!
tsjay - Congratulations on the new addition to your family. I loved reading your posts where you agonized about being trading off the Grand-Prix... Whereabout are you in KY? I have a friend living in Lexington... I loved the climate and scenery down there.
Anyway, sorry about the long post!
Cheers, drosketer.
However, maintenance which consists of replacement of the wires, cap, rotor and plugs at the specified intervals, is important to its correct functioning.
However, if you just want a 'name' ignition under the hood, there are several manufacturers out there that have a system that will fit.
The downside on a Wrangler is that it's only available on the D35 axle. If you intend going over 33" tires and like to bounce over rocks with your wheels spinning and slamming, this could be a problem. Otherwise, the D35 is a lot more capable than most people give it credit for.
Good luck.
-twylie
-Paul
1) I thought 4 wheel disc brakes were mated with Trak-Lok; can't get one without the other.
2) Without Trak-Lok, is the rest of the gear useless?
3) Is the standard diff. an open one? Hear those suck.
Thanks.
2) No, why would it be?
3) Yes, ...........and really?
As for #2, i figured the wheels and axle are designed for off road, and the standard differential may not be.
Now, as I read the posts, you guys are making a great case for the standard axle, 225s and ABS brakes. But for 2 grand more over 60 months, why not get the 4X4 capable Jeep?
-Mike
Which Wrangler are you thinking of that's not "4X4 capable"?
Don't know if you are interested but I saw this posted on another board and thought of you and Ross Allen....
http://www.muttslinger.com/
Steve, Host
I Got the Dual Top option for my Jeep, I figured better to have it & not need than Need it & not have it.
I have 2 small children. It really isnt a problem getting them in & out. On the Hard top I just used the rear window. Keep us posted
DROSKETER.
Welcome the the board too. Good to see our Canadian neighbors like Jeeps too.
Keep those long post going
Keep Jeepin,
BamaTazz
http://www.geocities.com/bamatazz2001/index.html
1. I have cruise control on my 2000 Sport with auto. The owners manual says 35 mph is the minimum speed. Mine is actually about 37 (could be the speedo). I would really like it to work down to 25 mph, but would settle for 30. Dealer says they can not adjust it lower. Do any of you know if there is a way to "tweak" it down or is there a chip or module I can buy that will do the job?
2. This is the first vehicle I have ever owned that I did not get better gas mileage than the window sticker estimate. I have kept very good records on every ounce of gas since it was new. At 18000 miles, my average is almost exactly 14 mpg. I see people in this group talking about 16-18 mpg. EPA sticker estimate is 15 mpg. I am a conservative right foot only driver. For reasons I will not bore you with, I suspect the fan "engages" shortly after the engine is started. Dealer won't even entertain the possibility. I think maybe they don't know how to check it. Is there a way? Could this cost me a couple of mpg?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. If anyone want's more details, I will give you my email address to keep from cluttering up this board.
Terry
Welcome proc2000, drosketer, and embeeduece!
Kelleyo, thanks for the link. It works out fine for old Ross Allen simply to ride in the back. He does not try to jump out (he's a very laid back kind of guy), and any time I'm doing anything the least bit risky, I make him get out and have someone keep him on his leash for me until I get through the risky stuff. I do appreciate your thinking of us, though.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
2. MPG is very dependant on driving habits and vehicle spec. Also on speedo accuracy and fuel measurement. Speedo is easy to check with a GPS, and easy to correct with a new speedo gear. Fuel measurement is easy but tedious. The only practical way to be consistent is to fill the tank to the neck each time. The last couple of gallons take forever (well, five minutes anyway), and it's easy to be fooled into thinking it's full the first time it spits back. Some pumps won't even let you fill to the neck.
Final gear ratio, type of transmission, use of A/C, will all make a difference. Even driving with headlights on will have an effect, as the extra load on the alternator has to be met.
I would guess that the 16-18mpg figures are from manual transmissions with high final drive ratios. I average 14mpg with a 3.73, an auto, A/C always on, and an 'smooth' driving style. I usually travel a little faster than surrounding traffic in town by anticipating lights and other drivers. Out of town I pretty much keep consistent with the flow.
You can check the fan clutch as follows (taken from the FSM), but as a new one only costs about $30 from AutoZone etc. substitution might be the way to go for peace of mind.
"TESTING
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the fan blades will revolve more than five turns when spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be in good condition. It also will ensure against excessively high coolant temperature.
WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.
(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8 inch) diameter hole in the top center of the fan shroud.
(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem (or equivalent). It should have a range of -18°to 105°C (0°to 220°F). Insert thermometer through the hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate clearance from the fan blades.
(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition timing light (timing light is to be used as a strobe light).
(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air conditioner condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked.
(5) Be sure that the air conditioner (if equipped) is turned off.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(6) Start the engine and operate at 2400 rpm. Within ten minutes the air temperature (indicated on the dial thermometer) should be up to 88°C (190°F). Fan drive engagement should have started to occur at between 74°to 85°C (165°to 185°F). Engagement is distinguishable by a definite increase in fan flow noise (roaring). The timing light also will indicate an increase in the speed of the fan.
(7) When the air temperature reaches 88°C (190°F), remove the plastic sheet. Fan drive disengagement should have started to occur at between 57°to 82°C (135°to 180°F). A definite decrease of fan flow noise (roaring) should be noticed. If not, replace the defective viscous fan drive unit.
CAUTION: Engines equipped with serpentine drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous fan drives. They are marked with the word REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in engine overheating.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan blade assembly if any of these conditions are found. Also inspect water pump bearing and shaft assembly for any related damage due to a viscous fan drive malfunction."
Steve, Host
First, exhaust manifold. I'm not an expert or a mechanic. But I've replaced mine. It started more like a ticking noise when the engine was working hard (like going uphill at higher speeds) and ended up sounding like a very loud engine toward the end. I once had a van that I put side pipes on and did a lousy job of attaching them to the exhaust manifold coming off the engine. Every so often one of the connectors would fall off, and the exhaust would not be going through the muffler. It ended up sounding like that. If you have a rattle I would think it would be something else - maybe muffler mounts or ???
Mileage - don't necessarily go my mileage figures unless you are doing almost all highway driving. I think I figured out that there are 3 stoplights and 3 or 4 stop signs (different going home than going to work) total on my 75 mile commute. The rest is either slow-n-go or as fast as you think you can safely drive your vehicle. Since the Wrangler gets significantly lower gas mileage over 70, I rarely drive it that fast. I think the sticker had it rated at 19 or 20 highway, and that's what I get very consistently.
Tops - If I had a garage I would have wanted the dual tops. However, I don't so I just have the hard top. It is nice in the winter because it is warmer, and we do get an occasional heavy dump of snow.
Thought the dog restraint system was interesting (and had the same thought - did they REALLY roll a jeep?). Maybe if I ever get another pup I'll look at that, though I never worried too much about my hiking buddy since I always had the hard top on, and we didn't do anything difficult when he was with us.
Rubi vs. Sport? Unless I were going to be using the special features of the Rubi, I don't think I would buy one. I don't think the resale value will be so significantly higher compared to purchase price to make it worthwhile. Now, if you are planning on 'wheeling alot and want those lockers, lift and larger tires, then definitely get one. Everyone has pointed out that you would spend much more doing the mods yourself if you were to start with a Sport. Even basic Wranglers have more resale value than many cars. For instance, my '98 Wrangler is worth more than my 2000 Taco. And I don't think that the fact that the Wrangler only has over 115,000 miles on th odometer vs. the almost 119,000 miles that the Taco has makes all that much difference!
I live in western Ky, and I am about three and a half hours west of Lexington.
Get the Jeep! You won't be sorry.
Man, I can't believe you went that far back in the posts to read those where I had not yet bought Thelma Jane! You must have spent hours and hours getting caught up on the posts in here.
The Grand Prix was a fantastic car, and as I said in those posts back then, I would have loved to have kept that car and still bought a Jeep, but NO WAY I could afford to do that.
I have absolutely NO regrets about getting a Jeep. Well, just that I wish I had done it years ago. I have a vehicle that I have owned for 2.5 yrs +, and I am not one bit tired of it! For me, that is a miracle.
You live in great Jeep country, or at least very near great Jeep country. I would love to have the chance to drive a Jeep in the Canadian Rockies! How far are you from the Rockies?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I've never had a cracked exhaust manifold on any of my vehicles, so I have never tried this myself, but I have heard one way to detect the problem is to get the vehicle into a very dark location and look at the manifold from all possible angles. If there is a crack, you should be able to see the orange glow of the hot exhaust gasses.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. Guess I should have said that the engine needs to be running for this test, but I'll bet you already figured that out, huh?
tidester, host
And...thank you for the nice "welcome" here. This seems like a very, civilized and decent board, which is nice to see.
The rattle seems to be coming from above the skid plate, where the CC is. All mountings are secure and the pipe itself is stable. Is replacing the catalytic converter something one can do themselves? Any special tools required or would I be better off having an exhaust shop do it?
The manifold area looks fine and the rattle is definitely further back.
Tom, I was kinda in your neck of the woods a month ago. I was in Huntsville, AL and ventured up into TN to visit the Jack Daniels distillery. I know, not KY, but heck, a LOT closer than Edwards, CA.
-Paul
I could notice the horsepower I had been losing right away.
Bama, we definitely like Jeeps up here. Regardless of what people use them for, there are plenty around. Each as individual as their owner wants to make them, I think that is part of the appeal. Have you managed to get Tazz off the road at all yet?
Mtngal, precisely the dilemma. While I have not done any real off-roading (aside from some minor trails / service roads with a friends Sport), I am thinking that it may be something I will get into in the future. If that is the case, then it would make sense to get the Rubi rather than wait and then spend the extra dough on mods. At worst, I get a capable Jeep with heavier components that will (hopefully) last longer. You mention the rubi having a lift... I wasn't aware they factory-install one on them...
Tsjay. LOL. Yeah, reading the posts took some time, lucky for me it's sort of quiet at work these days. Let's hope the network police aren't looking too closely at my internet activity. Western KY... I passed through Bowling Green a couple of years back while visiting, took in a part of the Mammoth Cave complex while I was at it.
I am currently driving a '94 T-bird, or a land-yacht as I like to call it. Great highway cruiser, but as I live in a condo and don't have space for two cars it's going to be gone sooner than later. Oh well, it was nice living with no car payments! Still, I am seeing a progression towards bigger gas guzzlers over time. Started with a Dodge Omni years ago, eventually got the T-bird (and was amazed at how much thirstier it was), and now am looking at an even thirstier prospect. A sucker for punishment I suppose... but after taking my friends Jeep topless and doorless for a day I am hooked.
Edmonton is sort of centrally located, and all that means is that anywhere I want to go, it's likely to take 2-4 hours to get there! It's about 2 hours to get to the foothills (and apparently plenty of trails) and a further 2 to get into the Rockies. We also have some desert-like badlands about 2-3 hours away which should provide for variety in available trails. Hoping to explore them over the years with a buddy of mine and my brother.
If you find some really outstanding trails, email me (address is in profile). Maybe next trip up to see my in-laws (who are in Houston, B.C.) we can swing by Jasper and that area.
Since you have a real possibility of doing some real rock crawling, a Rubi might be a good idea. Those 33" (if I remember correctly - am I right or am I having a "senior moment?") tires would really come in handly.
As far as checking if you have a manifold leak, the only trick I know is to have someone stand at the tailpipe with a towell folded over a couple of times. With the vehicle running, have them press the folded towell over the tailpipe for 1 or 2 seconds at a time, then remove. This will "stop up" the tailpipe and force exhaust out of any holes or cracks in the system. As they close off the system, listen in the the various parts of the exhaust. If you have a leak somewhere, this may make it more evident where the problem is.
Don't close off the exhaust for more than a couple of seconds at a time or the engine may cut off (the old bannana in the tailpipe trick). Also be sure to do this outside of a garage since you need to leave the engine running.
HTH
ps - wheels, mac covered the only info I would have had to share :-)
-twylie
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?