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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • I just received my 2001 Suburban last week with all the goodies in Pewter and graphite/med gray interior. What an awesome truck. Lots of comments, even from employees at the dealer. Anyway, even with every extra odered I still got the middle grade air conditioner (no climate control)and no rear controller. I guess with the amount of sales and demand it just wasn't important enough to re-engineer. Other than that the truck is awesome. The "Deathstones" came off on day 2 and were replaced with the Michelin AT.
    Chevy needs to offer these tires at least as an option.
    My next step is the entertainment center. Any suggestions? Also looking for anyone who had modified for performance i.e. dual exhaust, headers, high flow air intake. Any comments.

  • Take a look at Tom Byrne Motorsports.

    He's doing a 2001 Suburban with all the goodies you mentioned. Sweet lookin truck.
  • Gerald, the vehicles you speek of in all colors, are they comming out of the Jainesville and Mexico assembly lines? If so this makes no sense at all. ARE YOU LISTENING GM! I wonder what the constraint situation is with these vehicles. Do they get first dibs on wheelflares, rear audio, liftgates and such? Mike
  • Thats a good looking suburban from Tom Byrne. I see that when they two toned it they did it on the back end like GM should. Are you going to do your gold this way? I have seen a couple of pickups done this way and it looks much better. Mike
  • I just got off the phone with a friend of mine that has an older Suburban. She wants to order a new one and I was telling her about the Yukon XL we have ordered. She asked me if we planned on adding TV and told her we planned on putting one in each headrest. She told me not to do it because the screens get scratched up when your kids get in and out of the truck with all of their stuff. She has two boys that are a year older than mine so our trucks probably get the same wear and tear. She suggested doing a flip down screen and added that she has had to get her screens replaced because of the scratches and fingerprints all over them. Does anyone know if these screens have protective covers for them? I really wanted two screens so no one is fighting over what to watch, but if having the flip down extends the life of the TV system and enjoyment I may have to consider it. Has anyone had an experience like this?
  • I got lucky yesterday. They had moved the two-toned Polo Green/Gold Yukon XL from the backlot to the front lot and placed it at the end of a row in the sun. I took almost a whole roll of pictures of it and as soon as I get them back I will have a friend scan the best shot(s). I will send them to Clifford and ask him to post it on his site and make a link to post it here. (I have no way to post pictures from here that I am aware of.) There are bound to be other guys out there with solid green trucks who might want to spice them up a little bit. And Mike, you are right. Bringing the second color around to the bottom of the liftgate or doors is the way to go, even though GM doesn't do it that way.

    It didn't occur to me to see where these vehicles are built, but I will check it out in the next few days and let you know.

    As for contraints, there is no evidence of a problem here. Every Yukon and Yukon XL they had on the lot (about 20 total) had liftgates. I didn't see barn doors anywhere. Every SLT Yukon and some SLEs had rear audio controls. Every 2500 had wheel flares. There were sunroofs aplenty. I talked to the sales manager at this dealership and asked him if he had any trouble getting vehicles in configured as they wanted and he looked at me like I was crazy. "It's our money", he said in perfect English, "and, if they want us to spend it with them, they have to give us what we want, not what they want." What a novel idea!

    By the way, not a single Yukon/Yukon XL of the 10 or so that I checked had Firestone tires. Guess GM is saving these for the US market.
  • Gerald, thanks for the update. this ought to get a lot of people in the states fired up. It would be nice if everyone in the states could collectively go on strike and not purchase any GM vehicles for two months. Boy would that send GM a message! Of course that could not happen but its an interesting thought. What jumped out at me was your sales managers statement,"its our money", what a concept, PAY ATTENTION GM. Mike
  • Luc, thanks for the light info. What a cheaply made light. I had barely enough slack in wire to unplug it. Im supprised GM included the hot third wire. What light did you order? My second seat light is mounted in the rear air control console and will not work in the headliner third seat position. Did you order a 99 and earlier eyeball style light and is the plug in point compatible? Thanks, Mike
  • Thanks for the step-by-step instructions for the reading lights. Do you remember about how much the light cost?
    Thanks again.
  • I have a 2001 with sunroof so no rear ac/heat control.and my 2nd seat dome/reading light is in the headliner.
    Part # for the light is 15 04 43 70 and full retail is $ 35 but I paid $ 25.
    Remember that this part # is for a Neutal color interior,If you have another color the part # will be different (last 2 digits i think)
    Also the reason for the lack of wiring slack is because GM hot glued the wiring to the back of the headliner, put your fingers/hand in the opening and you will fill the glob of glue, just pull on it and you will have plenty of slack.
    My guess as why GM included the hot 3rd wire is because when they designed the truck they were going to put a dome/reading light but some as--- decided that by putting a dome light only GM will save may be $2 per truck.
    Another tip: to turn off the Day Time Running Light, GM said to press the dome override button 4 times, well I have a way of doing it in half the time.
    Instead of pushing the button all the way, just push it twice to about half way to where you can start to fell a slight resistance.
  • Does anyone know if the factory installed alarm system can be upgraded? Is it one of the standard VSC series alarms of just something cheap that flashes the lights and blows the horn.

    I'd like to add some sensors (glass,impact, etc.) and a flashing LED and was just wondering if this is possible with the one already installed or do I have to put another one in?

    BTW, I've had my dealer check some other Yukon's and XL's on his lot and none of the steering wheels lock in place when you take the key out! I can't believe that GM would take something so simple out when they've had it for decades! I asked him to call his Technical Advisor at GM to find out if this is a change or just a early model year screw up. I have a friend who bought a 2001 Sierra Z71 at the same time and his wheel doesn't lock either.

    Thanks for the those of you who have already checked on the steering wheel for me.

  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    Does anyone know the mechanics behind the claimed self levelling on the Premium smooth ride? I assume the Autoride uses a sensor and air compressor system, but if you look under my truck which has the Premium, there is no external wiring or lines running into the rear shock. No luck checking with the dealer.
  • This was posted either on this board or another one but I couldn't find it so here ya go:

    Head to this page:

    then go to Ride & Handling and then choose Premium Smooth Ride and it will show you how it works. Basically, while you're driving, the rear shocks sort of ratchet up in the first 2 miles to level the vehicle.

    Hope that helps.

  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    Thanks for the reply, but I knew it ratchetted up, but not how it occurs internally. Namely, is it a true ratchett system or does it utilize both a positive and negative air spring which utilizes a balancing mechanism?? Some new air shocks on bikes make use of such a set-up which allow for an open communication between two different chambers but which results in different pressures in each chamber. I know it sounds counterintuitive (how can freely communicating chambers develop different pressures?), but it has to do with aperture and chamber sizes plus the use of spring valves and it does actually work. Where I am going with this is the issue of adding air-assist for towing. Depending on the mechanism, it may be better to deploy the air springs before of after the system "auto-levels"
  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    I know many posts have discussed the new Michelin LTX's, but it seems folks are split on whether they result in a more or less supple road ride. What is the answer? It may help it those of you who upgraded let me know which tires came stock. ie. were they the Tombstone LE's or AT's? We have the LE's on our Yukon, and other issues aside, I don't have any real compaints re. the ride quality.
    Also, I have heard some good things about the BFG AT and KO tires. Does anyone have experience with these?
  • Now there glueing the wiring and door hinges. Mayby the motors glued in. Liquidlab, thanks for the part number,. Ill make sure i get a gray one. Ill see if i can knock that $35 price down a little myself. It probably cost $3.50 to make and has 1000% markup. Campo57 GM doesent make much sense. I can't figure why they would take the steering lock out of the 2001 when they have it in 2000. Probably needed money for more glue. The Figmoman
  • rand01rand01 Posts: 75
    I installed the LTXs on my 4wd Suburban at about 4000 miles, so I had a pretty good feel for the ride of the Firestones. I personnally feel the Michelins have a more firm ride, which I like better and is still very comfortable. When you compare the Firestone and Michelin side by side unmounted, you will see what a flimsy tire the Firestone really is. The Michelins are an excellent tire and I have great confidence in them.

    The BFG All-Terrains are an excellent tire also, but you will find the ride much more harsh. It has a much stiffer sidewall which is great for crashing through the boonies, maybe not so great for everyday street driving, depends on your preference. I have a set of these installed on my 4Runner and am very happy with them. The lastest version is the KO, which has a slightly different tread pattern and bead to protect the rim. Could have been my brain tricking my proprioceptive system, but when I installed the KOs, they seemed to have a softer ride than my older version BFG AT TAs. I believe the KOs are the newest version of the ATs, anything else is an old tire.
  • Polo Green/Gold Yukon XL

    My 2001 XL was built this week. It is polo green. I was wondering if the gold you are talking about is an aftermarket purchase and if you know where I could see a picture of it? This does sound very attractive.

  • I found out yesterday while transporting someone else's child that the Suburban does not have a 'door ajar' warning light. He had pulled the handle while on the road. The cargo door does have one, I'm sure for monoxide danger. The dome lights do not come on when the door is ajar so you are on your own to find it by wind noise I guess. With all the bells and whistles on the LT, this is a [non-permissible content removed].
  • I got my 2001 Yukon Dec. 1. It is an awesome vehicle! Truly love it and have only two complaints -- sunroof does not automatically close when I lock my doors when leaving the vehicle (something my 1995 Nissan Quest did!), and the second row seat has to be "manually" pulled up with a "loop" in the seat to allow access to the third seat. Other than that, I am truly satisfied with the vehicle. As far as the Firestone tires, I was told that GM specifications for the tires on their vehicles are upgraded from Ford's - and it's kinda like a recall on beef at a grocery store - are you never going to buy beef again just because there was a bad batch?
  • The gold used for the second color (two tone)on the 2001 polo green Yukon XLs is the factory gold used by GM on both the Yukons and the Suburbans. GMC calls the color Topaz Gold Metallic; Chevy calls the color Sunset Gold Metallic. By either name they are the same.

    The gold two-tone was factory done by GM. While they don't sell two toned 2001 Yukons and Suburbans in the states, they do overseas.

    I have taken a number of pictures of the green and gold Yukon XL and I'm suppossed to get the pictures back tomorrow. I will choose the best one or two of them, have them scanned, send them to Clifford Martin, and ask him to post them on his website. He may also be able to post one here on this forum. He has done this before. He knows how to do it. I haven't got a clue.

    By the way, it really makes an already beautiful truck look even better to add the gold to the dark green. I am definitely having it done to my truck by a first rate custom shop when I pick it up next month.
  • I also have a 2001 Yukon Xl with the 8100 vortec and 4.10 gears.
    I went to 265 as I did on my 95 before.
    I think that you DONT need to correct the speedo for 2 reasons.

    On the 95 GM was using the same parts # for the computer module and speed sensor for both 245 and 265.

    more importantly all Manufactures calibrations for their speedo is on the low side for liabilities purpose.
    As an example,all manufactured parts have built-in tolerance parameters or + or - in %.
    So for a speedo, if you were driving an indicated 65 miles on your speedo and you get a ticket for going 68 miles as indicated by the police radar, who do you think will be liable?
    The manufacturer of course.
    Now if your speedo indicate 65 but you are really going 62, the manufacturer is safe and you can't even sue him because you didn't suffer any damages.

    The only correct speedo are the ones labeled " Certified Speedometer" that you will find on police cars.
    You can verify that easily by marking exactly 1 mile on a road/freeway and timing how long it take your truck/car to cover this mile going at an speedo indicated 60 miles/h.
    If it is more than 60 seconds, your speedo is on the low side, 60 seconds and your speedo is right on and less than 60 seconds and your speedo is on the high side.
  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    Mine was built in 05/00 (Mexico) and I had to get my body mounts changed. I wouldn't doubt that they knew about the problem and continued to build them with the problem mounts until they were used up. I guess they would hope the only some consumers would complain therefore reducing costs by replacing them on a compaint basis.
    Funny how I fought with the service department to replace the mounts as late as Septmeber. I even gave them part number for the new mounts and they said GM had no technical adivsories for fixing the "drum sound". They finally said a technical advisory was issued and they could go ahead and replace the mounts.
  • I just picked up our 2001 Yukon XL and noticed the door locks will not adjust according to the manual. The locks do not lock as the truck reaches the correct speed. I followed the book and could not change the lock setting. Has anyone else had this happen? It might also be pilot error...

    normal angler
  • I had the same problem on my 2001 suburban. A supplement (1 page) to the owners manual was included in the glove box which covered programming the locks. The directions on the supplement worked. If I remember, the difference is that on the 2001 is that there are several options to choose from when programming the locks.
  • Does anybody know offhand the height in inches from the cargo floor (behind the third row of seats) to the headliner on a 2000/2001 'burb? My new vehicle is due within the week and I need to buy a pet barrier for my 100 lb. pooch. Thanks in advance!
  • In April I placed my order for 2001 Yukon XL 1500 4wd SLT luxury package, white, sunroof and autoride suspension... finally got my call this week telling me that they were placing my order as it had been preferenced.
    Got everything I wanted but the two-tone white/pewter exterior color.
    Now the real countdown begins.
  • I'm glad to see another Southerner get their XL. I waited a long time for mine, received my XL back in September. So who did you order from? Wasn't the savings worth the wait, I know I saved alot of money by buying from Southern instead of a dealer here in CA. One thing I can tell you is Southern knows how to baby you and your new XL...ENJOY!!!
  • kpannkpann Posts: 13
    I'm trying to buy a 2001 Suburban LT. I live in the Carolinas, The dealers don't want to come off of MSRP. Is anyone getting a good deal out there?
  • Here are the directions to program the door locks:

    Q: Can I change the way my automatic door lock feature works, and how can I do it?

    A: There are four possible settings for the automatic door lock feature that may be selected.

    The four settings are:
    1. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, Drivers door only unlocks on key removal.
    2. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, All doors unlock on key removal.
    3. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, No doors unlock on key removal.
    4. No doors automatically lock or unlock (feature off).
    The factory setting for 2001 Model Year vehicles is #4 — No doors automatically lock or unlock(feature off).
    To change the setting to a different mode you must do the following:
    1) Beginning with the ignition switch OFF, pull back on the turn signal/multifunction lever all the way toward you and hold it while performing the next step.
    (2) Turn your key to ON and OFF twice. Then, with the key in OFF, release the turn signal/multifunction lever. Once you do this, you will hear the lock switch lock and unlock.
    (3) You are now ready to program the automatic door locks. Select one of the four modes listed above and follow the instructions below. You will have ten seconds to begin programming. If you exceed the ten seconds, you will hear the locks lock and then unlock indicating you have left the programming mode. If this happens, repeat the procedure beginning with step one. You can exit the programming mode at any time by turning the ignition to ON.
    To select setting #1 — All doors lock, only driver unlocks — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side once.
    To select setting #2 — All doors lock, all doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side twice.
    To select setting #3 — All doors lock, no doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side three times.
    To select setting #4 — No doors lock, no doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel twice.

    That should do it!

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