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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • Does anyone know if the factory installed alarm system can be upgraded? Is it one of the standard VSC series alarms of just something cheap that flashes the lights and blows the horn.

    I'd like to add some sensors (glass,impact, etc.) and a flashing LED and was just wondering if this is possible with the one already installed or do I have to put another one in?

    BTW, I've had my dealer check some other Yukon's and XL's on his lot and none of the steering wheels lock in place when you take the key out! I can't believe that GM would take something so simple out when they've had it for decades! I asked him to call his Technical Advisor at GM to find out if this is a change or just a early model year screw up. I have a friend who bought a 2001 Sierra Z71 at the same time and his wheel doesn't lock either.

    Thanks for the those of you who have already checked on the steering wheel for me.

    Campo57
  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    Does anyone know the mechanics behind the claimed self levelling on the Premium smooth ride? I assume the Autoride uses a sensor and air compressor system, but if you look under my truck which has the Premium, there is no external wiring or lines running into the rear shock. No luck checking with the dealer.
  • This was posted either on this board or another one but I couldn't find it so here ya go:

    Head to this page: http://www.gmc.com/yukon/agility/yukon_agility.html

    then go to Ride & Handling and then choose Premium Smooth Ride and it will show you how it works. Basically, while you're driving, the rear shocks sort of ratchet up in the first 2 miles to level the vehicle.

    Hope that helps.

    Campo57
  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    Thanks for the reply, but I knew it ratchetted up, but not how it occurs internally. Namely, is it a true ratchett system or does it utilize both a positive and negative air spring which utilizes a balancing mechanism?? Some new air shocks on bikes make use of such a set-up which allow for an open communication between two different chambers but which results in different pressures in each chamber. I know it sounds counterintuitive (how can freely communicating chambers develop different pressures?), but it has to do with aperture and chamber sizes plus the use of spring valves and it does actually work. Where I am going with this is the issue of adding air-assist for towing. Depending on the mechanism, it may be better to deploy the air springs before of after the system "auto-levels"
  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    I know many posts have discussed the new Michelin LTX's, but it seems folks are split on whether they result in a more or less supple road ride. What is the answer? It may help it those of you who upgraded let me know which tires came stock. ie. were they the Tombstone LE's or AT's? We have the LE's on our Yukon, and other issues aside, I don't have any real compaints re. the ride quality.
    Also, I have heard some good things about the BFG AT and KO tires. Does anyone have experience with these?
  • Now there glueing the wiring and door hinges. Mayby the motors glued in. Liquidlab, thanks for the part number,. Ill make sure i get a gray one. Ill see if i can knock that $35 price down a little myself. It probably cost $3.50 to make and has 1000% markup. Campo57 GM doesent make much sense. I can't figure why they would take the steering lock out of the 2001 when they have it in 2000. Probably needed money for more glue. The Figmoman
  • rand01rand01 Posts: 75
    I installed the LTXs on my 4wd Suburban at about 4000 miles, so I had a pretty good feel for the ride of the Firestones. I personnally feel the Michelins have a more firm ride, which I like better and is still very comfortable. When you compare the Firestone and Michelin side by side unmounted, you will see what a flimsy tire the Firestone really is. The Michelins are an excellent tire and I have great confidence in them.

    The BFG All-Terrains are an excellent tire also, but you will find the ride much more harsh. It has a much stiffer sidewall which is great for crashing through the boonies, maybe not so great for everyday street driving, depends on your preference. I have a set of these installed on my 4Runner and am very happy with them. The lastest version is the KO, which has a slightly different tread pattern and bead to protect the rim. Could have been my brain tricking my proprioceptive system, but when I installed the KOs, they seemed to have a softer ride than my older version BFG AT TAs. I believe the KOs are the newest version of the ATs, anything else is an old tire.
  • Polo Green/Gold Yukon XL

    My 2001 XL was built this week. It is polo green. I was wondering if the gold you are talking about is an aftermarket purchase and if you know where I could see a picture of it? This does sound very attractive.

    Thanks
  • I found out yesterday while transporting someone else's child that the Suburban does not have a 'door ajar' warning light. He had pulled the handle while on the road. The cargo door does have one, I'm sure for monoxide danger. The dome lights do not come on when the door is ajar so you are on your own to find it by wind noise I guess. With all the bells and whistles on the LT, this is a [non-permissible content removed].
  • I got my 2001 Yukon Dec. 1. It is an awesome vehicle! Truly love it and have only two complaints -- sunroof does not automatically close when I lock my doors when leaving the vehicle (something my 1995 Nissan Quest did!), and the second row seat has to be "manually" pulled up with a "loop" in the seat to allow access to the third seat. Other than that, I am truly satisfied with the vehicle. As far as the Firestone tires, I was told that GM specifications for the tires on their vehicles are upgraded from Ford's - and it's kinda like a recall on beef at a grocery store - are you never going to buy beef again just because there was a bad batch?
  • The gold used for the second color (two tone)on the 2001 polo green Yukon XLs is the factory gold used by GM on both the Yukons and the Suburbans. GMC calls the color Topaz Gold Metallic; Chevy calls the color Sunset Gold Metallic. By either name they are the same.

    The gold two-tone was factory done by GM. While they don't sell two toned 2001 Yukons and Suburbans in the states, they do overseas.

    I have taken a number of pictures of the green and gold Yukon XL and I'm suppossed to get the pictures back tomorrow. I will choose the best one or two of them, have them scanned, send them to Clifford Martin, and ask him to post them on his website. He may also be able to post one here on this forum. He has done this before. He knows how to do it. I haven't got a clue.

    By the way, it really makes an already beautiful truck look even better to add the gold to the dark green. I am definitely having it done to my truck by a first rate custom shop when I pick it up next month.
  • I also have a 2001 Yukon Xl with the 8100 vortec and 4.10 gears.
    I went to 265 as I did on my 95 before.
    I think that you DONT need to correct the speedo for 2 reasons.

    On the 95 GM was using the same parts # for the computer module and speed sensor for both 245 and 265.

    more importantly all Manufactures calibrations for their speedo is on the low side for liabilities purpose.
    As an example,all manufactured parts have built-in tolerance parameters or + or - in %.
    So for a speedo, if you were driving an indicated 65 miles on your speedo and you get a ticket for going 68 miles as indicated by the police radar, who do you think will be liable?
    The manufacturer of course.
    Now if your speedo indicate 65 but you are really going 62, the manufacturer is safe and you can't even sue him because you didn't suffer any damages.

    The only correct speedo are the ones labeled " Certified Speedometer" that you will find on police cars.
    You can verify that easily by marking exactly 1 mile on a road/freeway and timing how long it take your truck/car to cover this mile going at an speedo indicated 60 miles/h.
    If it is more than 60 seconds, your speedo is on the low side, 60 seconds and your speedo is right on and less than 60 seconds and your speedo is on the high side.
    Luc.
  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    Mine was built in 05/00 (Mexico) and I had to get my body mounts changed. I wouldn't doubt that they knew about the problem and continued to build them with the problem mounts until they were used up. I guess they would hope the only some consumers would complain therefore reducing costs by replacing them on a compaint basis.
    Funny how I fought with the service department to replace the mounts as late as Septmeber. I even gave them part number for the new mounts and they said GM had no technical adivsories for fixing the "drum sound". They finally said a technical advisory was issued and they could go ahead and replace the mounts.
  • I just picked up our 2001 Yukon XL and noticed the door locks will not adjust according to the manual. The locks do not lock as the truck reaches the correct speed. I followed the book and could not change the lock setting. Has anyone else had this happen? It might also be pilot error...

    Thanks,
    normal angler
  • I had the same problem on my 2001 suburban. A supplement (1 page) to the owners manual was included in the glove box which covered programming the locks. The directions on the supplement worked. If I remember, the difference is that on the 2001 is that there are several options to choose from when programming the locks.
  • Does anybody know offhand the height in inches from the cargo floor (behind the third row of seats) to the headliner on a 2000/2001 'burb? My new vehicle is due within the week and I need to buy a pet barrier for my 100 lb. pooch. Thanks in advance!
  • In April I placed my order for 2001 Yukon XL 1500 4wd SLT luxury package, white, sunroof and autoride suspension... finally got my call this week telling me that they were placing my order as it had been preferenced.
    Got everything I wanted but the two-tone white/pewter exterior color.
    Now the real countdown begins.
  • I'm glad to see another Southerner get their XL. I waited a long time for mine, received my XL back in September. So who did you order from? Wasn't the savings worth the wait, I know I saved alot of money by buying from Southern instead of a dealer here in CA. One thing I can tell you is Southern knows how to baby you and your new XL...ENJOY!!!
  • kpannkpann Posts: 13
    I'm trying to buy a 2001 Suburban LT. I live in the Carolinas, The dealers don't want to come off of MSRP. Is anyone getting a good deal out there?
  • Here are the directions to program the door locks:

    Q: Can I change the way my automatic door lock feature works, and how can I do it?

    A: There are four possible settings for the automatic door lock feature that may be selected.

    The four settings are:
    1. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, Drivers door only unlocks on key removal.
    2. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, All doors unlock on key removal.
    3. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, No doors unlock on key removal.
    4. No doors automatically lock or unlock (feature off).
    The factory setting for 2001 Model Year vehicles is #4 — No doors automatically lock or unlock(feature off).
    To change the setting to a different mode you must do the following:
    1) Beginning with the ignition switch OFF, pull back on the turn signal/multifunction lever all the way toward you and hold it while performing the next step.
    (2) Turn your key to ON and OFF twice. Then, with the key in OFF, release the turn signal/multifunction lever. Once you do this, you will hear the lock switch lock and unlock.
    (3) You are now ready to program the automatic door locks. Select one of the four modes listed above and follow the instructions below. You will have ten seconds to begin programming. If you exceed the ten seconds, you will hear the locks lock and then unlock indicating you have left the programming mode. If this happens, repeat the procedure beginning with step one. You can exit the programming mode at any time by turning the ignition to ON.
    To select setting #1 — All doors lock, only driver unlocks — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side once.
    To select setting #2 — All doors lock, all doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side twice.
    To select setting #3 — All doors lock, no doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side three times.
    To select setting #4 — No doors lock, no doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel twice.

    That should do it!

    Campo57
  • Mike, you might want to wait as it tapers. Here is what i measured. Behind third row seat right in center,41-1/4". At 19" either side of center, it tapers to 41". at this point it angles down to 38" stright up from the sides. The width at the sides at the floor is 49". Hope this helps you. Mike
  • Kpann, contact Scott Lambert at Marchant Chevrolet. They're located just west of Charleston SC.

    We just picked up an LT there last month. The price was $98 over invoice. Since they deal primarly in Chevy trucks they had no problem getting allocation on the vehicle we wanted. Their website also lists the vehicles they have in stock. I can't say enough about how helpful Scott was in making sure everything went smoothly.

    Their website is www.marchantchevy.com. Tell him Bob from Orlando sent you.
  • Just picked up our new Yukon XL 2 weeks ago. Didn't even know that it had the autolock feature.

    Thanks for the excellent programming instructions.

    Jeff
  • Thanks Campo57, I'll try this after work.
  • When you get the time, wander on over to NHSTA.com, click on complaints, click on tire complaints and check for 2000 Tahoes, Suburbans, Yukon and Yukon XL.
    I believe that you may be shocked at the number of reported tread separations on GM's "specially" designed Tombstones. On the plus side (if there is any), these separations don't appear to be causing the GM vehicles to flip over. That is probably why NHTSA hasn't forced a recall yet, which would undoubtedly put Firestone out of business at this point. But I don't want to be the first reported roll-over case.
    In any case, I think this proves that your dealer is fibbing, and that GM could care less about our safety (but who really thought they did anyway).
  • I just picked up my brand new Indigo/Pewter
    2001 XL SLT.

    It was purchased in MA, there are two dealers
    I know of around here who have some of
    these two tone cars. They were imported from
    canada and are brand new (mine had 46 miles)

    They do the conversions from kilometer/ to miles.
  • My 2001 Denali XL is finally in for $500 over invoice. But the dealer has included the retail $1452.12 for destination charge, instead of the invoice charge of $765.00. And also $484.04 for Dealer Co-op Advertising. We will probably try to get the lower charge for the destination charge, but he hasn't had to do any advertising for this truck. It just got in last night and I've had it ordered since September. We pick it up on Thursday. I think we got a good deal, but we'd like to know if generally people can get away without paying this advertising fee on pre-ordered vehicles. I made a quick comment regarding this charge and I was told that everyone pays that. I decided not to quibble until Thursday when we finalize the deal. Sounds like $500 over invoice is a great deal on this vehicle from what I've seen on this site, but we don't want to get taken on the little extras either. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
  • I think they are trying to rip you off. I had to pay a Dealer Co-op Advertising fee of about $413 that was on the invoice from the factory and the normal destination charge of $765. Ask to see the invoice, they should show it to you and you can see what they paid for the vehicle and what the advertising charge is. When I asked to see the invoice at my dealer, he gave me a copy without a problem...nothing to hide. I would make sure that you work all this out before even thinking about handing over any money for the truck.

    You would also be wise to check out cwmartin's site http://suv.s5.com/. He has a page that has an excellent inspection checklist to bring with you so you can check out the truck before you give the dealer any money. I highly recommend it.

    Good Luck with your negotiations and the truck when you get it!

    Campo57
  • I just located and purchased my 2001 LT 2500 4WD with the 8100 engine off the lot! I was worried about the long order times, but found the truck I wanted, with exactly my options (pretty much all of them), on a dealer lot. It had the 4.10 locking rear that I wanted, in the color (Pewter) I wanted. Pretty cool.

    They accepted my offer of $42000 (MSRP was $45.6K with dest charge) immediately, so I paid a little too much, but I'll take it. carsdirect.com wants around $400 more, so I beat that price.

    The dealer was Garnet Chevrolet (soon to be called Princeton Chevrolet) in Lawrenceville (or Trenton, depending on who you ask), NJ. I dealt
    with Brandon, the buypower manager.

    Three days after I found the truck I was driving it. Very cool. I love it, and look forward to towing my race cars with it this summer!

    -Dave
  • I just located and purchased my 2001 LT 2500 4WD with the 8100 engine off the lot! I was worried about the long order times, but found the truck I wanted, with exactly my options (pretty much all of them), on a dealer lot. It had the 4.10 locking rear that I wanted, in the color (Pewter) I wanted. Pretty cool.

    They accepted my offer of $42000 (MSRP was $45.6K with dest charge) immediately, so I paid a little too much, but I'll take it. carsdirect.com wants around $400 more, so I beat that price.

    The dealer was Garnet Chevrolet (soon to be called Princeton Chevrolet) in Lawrenceville (or Trenton, depending on who you ask), NJ. I dealt
    with Brandon, the buypower manager.

    Three days after I found the truck I was driving it. Very cool. I love it, and look forward to towing my race cars with it this summer!

    -Dave
  • kreykrey Posts: 41
    Factory Invoice is factory invoice. You should pay the $765 destination fee, the adv. fee, however, may or may not be kosher. It is a charge he has to pay, but he should have disclosed it to you up front. If he didn't, you have a right to get indignant, because not all dealers have this charge. Mine didn't.

    Look at the big picture. Does your new car have Firestones, and you'd rather have new Michelins? Is there anything else you want? IOW, negotiate. Say to him something like,"OK, I'll pay this eventhough I think it's unreasonable, as long as you put 5 new michelins on it, at no extra charge."

    That's the easy and fair way to do it. But, if he gets rude or "tough", politely tell him that the deal was mis-represented and that you're going to go home and think about it for a few days, maybe even talk to an attorney about getting your deposit back. Mean it, and then walk out after you say it. That ALWAYS gets their attention.
  • wam4wam4 Posts: 1
    I live in the Dallas area and just got a 2001 Denali XL. Originally I was going to place an order for the truck (I ended up finding the one I wanted that was a week from delivery). When I was looking to order the quotes from some of the dealers came back with a price above invoice, and they informed me that I would pay $765 destination and $484 for advertising fee even if it was an order. A couple dealers that had one on the lot wanted full sticker. Anyone who didn't quote an advertising fee wasn't giving a very good discount anyway. I definitely wouldn't pay over $765 for the destination fee. I'd fight the advertising fee since they didn't disclose it but it's not worth walking away from this truck over. This thing is awesome and since it comes basically loaded (even Michelins are standard)and the only 2 options are bucket seats and a sunroof about the only thing I could think to ask for in return is an extended warranty. You would hope that they're not nickel & dimeing you because they've got another buyer waiting in the wings willing to pay closer to sticker. Overall I think you got a great deal if they charge you 765 for destination and even if you do end up paying the advertising fee. These trucks are pretty hot right now. When I made my deal I also informed them up front of the max I would pay for any sort of documentation fee, vehicle inventory tax, and inspection.
  • We placed our order for a black Yukon XL the week of Oct. 24. We finally got a TPW of January 8 yesterday. The dealer said this means the truck will be constructed that week so we should have it by the end of January. I can't wait!
  • I thought that if you wanted rear bucket seats (middle row), then you had to buy leather. I don't like leather but want the bucket seats in the middle row of seats. But now it looks like I can get what I want--cloth and middle bucket seats. Does anyone know for sure that this is possible?
  • Has anyone ever used carbargains.com to buy a car? For $165, they shop and get the best price. ??
  • Thank you to all of you who responded to my questions about the advertising fee. The problem from the beginning was that this dealer hadn't given us any paper work on this order, so we weren't sure whether he was going to be legit on this $500 over invoice thing. (We had actually had another official order with another dealer for $1000 over invoice and that was all spelled out.) BUT, the dealer we bought from came through. We paid $500 over invoice, +765 destination charge and +484 for advertising fee. We feel we got a good deal and we love the vehicle.
    The one and only problem is that the third row rear seat is the natural tan color and the rest of the interior is pewter. When I pointed this out to the dealer they asked ME if it was supposed to be that way. I knew so much about this vehicle from these sites that I had been telling them about it. But I haven't heard anything about this seat thing. I can't imagine that it is supposed to be that way (the interior roof is also the light tan, which is the only reason I might even slightly think this is the way it's supposed to be). My guess is the assembly line screwed up. I'll hear from my dealer on Monday as to what GM says. I'll be expecting to get a new seat.
    Thanks again for all the input.
  • I've taken delivery of an LT 2500/8.1 Suburban, wanted the Yukon XL, but end of tax year was running out.

    This model came with the QIW On-Off raod tires (Firestone of course) and I have an easy option of having them swapped for the standard All-Season version.

    Question: Is the ride any better with standad tires?
    Does it ride noticeably better on Michelin LTX's?
  • My wife and I are contemplating purchasing a MY2001 Suburban or Yukon XL. This will be our first American made car/truck ever. All we have ever owned are Hondas, Toyotas, Acura, Nissan, and BMWs. I have been reading some of the threads on this forum and was curious to know what the overall experience from Suburban and Yukon XL owners. Are they reliable, what known defects should I be aware of, and why would one get the 2500 over the 1500. Much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • Startupfreak:

    There are several know problems and defects with the new body style Suburbans and Yukon XLs. None of them are really major or something that would make you regret buying the truck. To view a list of the problems, visit my web site at http://suv.s5.com and select the problem and defect page. (The web site is devoted to these trucks, so there may be other information there that you will find helpful.)

    The biggest thing I foresee for you will be the change in vehicle size. You are going from short small cars to a big tall truck. This will take some getting used to. I went from a big American sedan (Pontiac Bonneville) to a Yukon and it has taken me time to get used to the size.

    Clifford
  • Thank you for the post and link. We are trading in a 99 Toyota Sienna which has been almost perfect that is the reason for my concern. As for the size difference, it is almost 2ft longer than the Sienna, but it didn't seem to be an issue after several test drives, but again that is not real world driving situation so I think you are right about taking time to adjust a larger vehicle.

    -mike
  • I am close to buying my wife a Yukon rather than an XL because she didn't want to drive the longer XL. Does anyone have any real world experience getting kids in and out of the 3rd seat. This is a must for her due to carpooling duties. The access seems much more clumsy than the XL. Also looks like there is zero storage space behind the third seat. Any opinions??
  • Realize your wife doesn't want the extra length of the XL... but if she if carpooling, she will like the extra room in the XL. We have a '00 XL and its great (had a '96 'burb). The new one handles much tighter and more responsive than the 'Burb. Mileage will be about the same... Hope this helps
  • I have a Yukon with the third row seat. The third seat is only useful for children to use not adults. Access is by folding the passenger side second row seat down and then stepping over the second row seat into the third row. It is not convenient, but kids make think it's fun. You can put a row of grocery bags behind the third row seat and I have been able to put a golf bag in the travel case behind the seat o.k. There is not much room. If your wife is really going to be hauling kids around, I think you might be more satisfied with the Yukon XL. I see lots of soccer moms driving the bigger SUV's.
  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    We still have our 99 Sienna and bought our XL principally to tow our new trailer. There is a big difference, and I really notice the turning radius now I'm driving the XL everyday. I am lucky, because I live in truck country, and parking spaces tend to be much bigger here than in large cities. Sounds basic, but parking the XL in a small space isn't easy or fun. After only a month, the Sienna feels small now and I notice it is faster off the line. We just had a big snowstorm here, and the XL handles wonderfully, no comparison to the Sienna on snow or ice. Did a long road trip two weeks ago, and really enjoyed all the room we had for us and our triplet boys aged 27months. Big improvement over the engineering project it always took to pack all our stuff into the Sienna's small cargo area.
    1500 vs 2500 is a question of how much towing/load carrying you need. If you plan on towing a 7000lb trailer or want the vehicle to carry 6 adults and all their scuba gear, the 2500 may be for you. If it's for a large family and maybe a small boat then the 1500 should do. If the 1500 fits, and you are wary of American vehicles, you could also consider the new Toyota Sequoia. We seriously considered buying one, but in the end we had to go for the extra room and better towing capacity of the XL to fulfill our needs.
  • I have 01 Yukon AL with 4 small girls. The 2 older ones climb into the back and buckle themselves in the car seat. Even with movable seat on second row - it is hard on the back to lean over second seat to strap one in. 3rd row can handle small adults - but would be tight for larger people. Nice thing about AL is still have ample storage space behind 3rd row. Your wife won't regret the XL after a few times driving - my wife is 5' tall and can handle this beast.
  • Does anyone know where I could get the one to one and half inch chrome piece that goes right above the molding on the XL? I plan to put the rocker panels on and have seen this piece on a few of them and it looks great.

    Thanks
  • I tried to post this yesterday and it never showed up so here goes again. I re-scanned them so the resolution is better this time.

    Here are a few pics of my Garnet Red YXL (only waited 6 months to get this darn color...but it was worth it IMO!).

    image

    image

    This is an aftermarket Moonroof - Hollandia TVS 44 that I had the dealer install (work not done by him, he farmed it out)

    image

    If anyone would like to see more, I can post the web address' here so I don't take up so much space and download time since we can no longer HIDE our picture messages (I guess that's progress...NOT).

    Campo57
  • Nice looking truck. I congratulate you for holding out and holding on. I finally gave up on the Garnet Red/Refire when I learned that neither GMC or Chevy would offer the color in a 3/4 ton. (I still cannot imagine why this color would not be offered in the heavier truck.) I've chosen the new green and I believe I like it just as well. However, it would sure have been nice to have the choice be mine instead of GM.
  • Mike,

    Do you have a closer pic of the sun roof and controls? Looks like you have front and rear climate control? Cost?
  • Startupfreek:

    In the time I have had my 94 suburban, I have had three Bmw's, 540 and 2x 740's. The Suburban has been the most reliable of the bunch and thus have been reluctant to get rid of it. Plan to replace it this spring with a 2500 with the 6.0l (want the larger gas tank of the 2500) In seven years all I have done it put gas, oil and brakes on it. I have seen the horror stories from others, but when I travel out of town or the country I leave the suburban for the wife to drive. I know it will run without a question.
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