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On a different thread, it's interesting how many of us are considering between the Accord Coupe and the Camry Solara. I always prefer higher torque and I don't like high revs engines, so this makes me lean towards the Solara for my wife (another Toyota?).
toyotawarranty.com
John
Steve, Host
Slcant, there is a TSB for the front brakes so they would probably fix it with no problem. That problem was discussed at length on this forum about 6 months ago.
So far mine has 55K on it and only repair was the front brake TSB. Yes the interior is cheap plastic and I have to watch myself when I close the back door, I replaced all tires at 40K with Michelin cross terrain, but thats it! Compaired to my old ford van this car is a dream.
I would be interested to hear if anyone has installed the supercharger?
Also if anyone has installed different brake rotors, ie. slotted, or drilled.
WHY ???
Most modern day automotive A/C systems, most especially those of the automatic climate control variety, will automatically engage the A/C system to help dehumidify the incoming airstream (you wouldn't DARE be in recirulate at this point!).
At moderately cool outside temperatures, down to about 45F, this can often be a great advantage. But below these temperatures the efficiency of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airstream declines precipetously, until at just above freezing, ~35F, there is NO dehumidification capability whatsoever.
With outside temperatures below 45F your system should never be in recirculate, and should ALWAYS remain in the mode wherein outlet airflow is significantly heated and routed through the footwell outlet ducts, with a portion bled off to the windshield defrost/defog/demist ducts. This latter air flow is there, by factory design, to help (hopefully) keep the interior of the windshield above dewpoint, the point at which condensation begins to form.
If you have a manually operated system then it will be up to you to remember to monitor the outside temperature and be sure the system has the proper airflow routing, footwell only, as the outside temperature declines.
If you happen to have one of the automatic climate control systems designed or manufactured by NipponDenso in Japan, or Denso USA, in the US, Toyota and Lexus for instance, it will be "biased" toward "cooling" mode (airflow outlet to the face and upper body) regardless of COLD outside temperatures and your personal discomfort due to radiant "cooling" from the COLD surrounding landscape.
Again, it will be up to you, as the driver and therefore "protector" of yourself and your passengers, to be extremely vigilent and ALWAYS over-ride the system from "automatic" outlet airflow control mode, to footwell and defrost/defog/demist mode manually when outside temperatures decline below 45F.
Now.
If the outside temperature is below 45F and IF the interior of your windshield beings to fog over, even ever so slightly, you need to take IMMEDIATE action.
1. Turn the temperature control all the way UP, to MAX HEAT.
2. Turn the system Blower all the way to MAXIMUM speed.
3. THEN....
Change the system outlet airflow mode to defrost/defog/demist.
So, why did this happen, why did the windshield start to fog over?
First, let's assume you followed the above instructions and the system was in heating mode, footwell and defrost/defog/demist airflow mode, and NOT IN RECIRCULATE!
At, say, 65MPH on a really cold day your windshield is being quite thoroughly chilled with the COLD airstream impinging on the outside at 65MPH even though there is a significant level of warming airflow from the system flowing its interior surface.
But now you just picked up two sweaty and wet snow skiers and you're headed back down the mountain. Or you were headed up to the slopes and your passengers became stressed out (sweating profusely) due to the ice and snow covered roadbed and the sometimes unavoidable side-slipping of the vehicle.
Moisture = higher humidity + a cool windshield surface = condensation.
Cracking a rear window slightly will almost always help move the cool dry air through the vehicle.
If you have not disabled your A/C for wintertime driving there may be yet another cause for the windshield fogging over.
Your A/C system was running but now isn't.
1. It may have shut down of it's own accord, automatically, a few moments ago, due to declining outside temperatures, 35F or below. Many modern systems will do this automatically, with no warning or obvious indication to the operator.
2. You may have just previosuly used the defrost/defog/demist mode, unaware that this mode automatically activates the A/C system to assist in dehumidification. Once you return the system to normal operation the A/C will shutdown provided you have used the control functionality to turn it off.
3. You may have just noticed that the temperatures have declined and manually turned off the useless A/C.
But why would any of these actions lead to windshield fogging to the point of being a real safety issue??
Long story, but first a short version.
When the A/C is operating it will almost always "gather" airborne water vapor onto the evaporator vanes. As more and more moisture accumulates it will eventually become dropletts large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then run down the face of the evaporator and out the drain provided for this purpose.
When the A/C compressor is first shut down the temperature of the evaporator surfaces will begin to rise. And remember ALL system inlet airflow, fresh and recirculated, comes through the evaporator. So that thin film of moisture, the film of moisture that had not yet gained enough mass to overcome viscosity, will begin to evaporate into the atmosphere within the passenger cabin.
BINGO!
Cold windshield, high atmospheric humidity.
The windshield begins to fog over!
Modern day exacerbating circumstances...
1. New, less efficient refrigerant.
With the advent of the use of the new less efficient refrigerants automotive designers were fored to come up with ways to make up for the loss of efficiency.
The most obvious way, and the one most often chosen, was to make the evaporator itsself a lot more efficient. The evaporator in my 1984 T-bird had about 2500 square inches of evaporator cooling surface. The one in the newer vehicles is more typically in the range of 10,000 square inches.
More evaporator surface area = more moisture left over to humidify the passenger cabin once the A/C is turned off.
2. Reduce the cabin atmosphere's "exhaust" outflow.
On a minute by minute basis, the less "conditioned" air that leaves the controlled environment the less incoming airflow that must be cooled.
3. Lower the system blower speed.
The slower the airflow moves through the evaporator vanes the more "heat" it gives up. A lower blower speed also results in even less exhaust outflow due to blower induced pressure differentials.
The Lexus car series is very well insulated for sound deadening and wind noise. MY 92 LS400, in fully automatic mode, could be using recirculate for 90% of the flow in the winter or summer, with the indicator light showing "fresh" mode.
It's Willard's annual event - don't know how you missed it before! :-)
tidester, host
If anyone has had this problem, and their dealer fixed it, could you please email me the name of your dealership??? (marsimms@aol.com) It would be helpful if I could give this guy the name of someone who's fixed this problem and knows what they're doing. My next step is the 9 page arbitration form from the Atty General's office. If they can't or won't fix it, it's a lemon and I want a new car.
Thanks for all your postings! I'll keep you up to date on what happens.
Man this cracks me up!
http://www.airsept.com/eed.html
Here is a quote from that site, "Even after the A/C system has shut down, condensation continues to form in the evaporator if the ambient temperature is above 60° Fahrenheit."
Wouldn't that indicate moisture does NOT continue if the temp is under 60?
Wait a sec... nevermind. I don't want to get you riled up again so we can spend 2 weeks and 300 posts discussing a problem that only you seem to be aware of.
Here are the positions: 2-tweeters (those black ones on the driver and passenger side pillars), two speakers per door. This makes 10. Unfortunately, there is no sub woofer.
The evaporator operates, typically, just a tad above freezing. What Airsept is saying is that the evaporator will continue to "gather" moisture until it rises to a temperature very close to local ambient.
But the point of my reference to their ad was to verify my position that the evaporator vanes retain a significant level of moisture long after the A/C compressor has ceased operation.
And absent a purging device think about what might happen to your windshield surface about five miles down the road on a cold morning drive.
Know any place I can get this done for under $2,000. That's my budget. I want a reputable place that can find a way to get a screen into the largest of the 5 roof-mounted cupholders. I'll appreciate any help out there. Need to get this done soonest.
Thanks and muchos gracias...
By the way... glad you're still happy with the Sequoia.
Go to http://www.rosenentertainment.com/. Rosen is regarded as the best manufacturer for these systems. They have a link to a list of dealers as well.
rugeti:
I checked out the link, and called. The company don't do retail. BUT, I got a list of names of vendors local here in San Diego. So I'll be sure checking these out. Yes, I am willing to pay a little extra for peace of mind.
gkatz:
I laughed at myself - roof-mounted cupholders. Bah ! I meant roof-mounted sunshade holders. Well, I am sure you know what I meant. I won't feel bad if I gotta lose my stock dome light as long as the replacement fits snugly. Thanks for the help.
Same thing with the navigation systems. I'd rather have a portable system I can use in OR out of the vehicle and for a fraction of the cost.
Second point--I've seen the portables and I have never seen one that puts the cursor on the road you are on, it is typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch off of where you are really at. Picky but true..
Last point about portables can be summed up in one word... Projectiles. In an accident.
I can add a GPS to my Pocket PC and have a great system. I can even load the hole of my favorite golf course and it will tell me how far from the pin I am. The golf course might get upset if I pull my Sequoia out into the fairway.
Both are good options. The factory units are way overpriced and will add little to the resale when you sell. Like all high tech electronics these days, they will probably be obsolete in less than 2 years anyway.
Thanks,
RGH