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Lincoln Town Car Water Leaks

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Comments

  • Anybody have a clue where I can get inner door seals for the Lincoln.I believe that's my leak issue.I know Ford can get them,anywhere else?
  • 99towncarexec: I'm curious- How did you determine that the inner seals are what you need to replace? Have you actually seen the water coming in from that area? I was thinking after I did my repair on the fresh air vent, I would sit in my car while someone ran a hose over it and see if I could spot where any other leaks could be. By the way if your inner seals are rubber and they are painted the same color as your car then the car has been repainted. My seals are black rubber(if it's the same thing we're referring to.
  • ralka: started my repair to the fresh air vent assembly-the first thing I noticed was the black plastic piece that is the windshield cover held on by two long black plastic screws has a foam gasket-mine was loose so I reattached it using weatherstrip adhesive. Then I removed the next plastic piece that has the 5 8mm screws and the two 11m nuts. The gasket on mine was in good shape but wet. So now I can see the screen and the foam gasket underneath it. When tightening the nuts the rubber washers compress and tear. I have a feeling that this was not meant to be overly tight as the foam just compresses as well. This foam gasket is also wet. I'm thinking to make a proper repair you would probably need to access it from the inside but that might be a lot more disassembly. Never the less I'm going to try to do the repair from the top. I spent a good part of the day looking for the Crest product "Reseal" only to find out that it's not sold in stores, only to body shops. I called the sales rep in my area after I got his number from the east coast distributor for Crest Products. I told him what I intended to use it for and he suggested a product by Sherwin Williams, a rubber based seam sealer. I'll go there on Monday. I plan to seal the foam gasket underneath(where it's exposed) :confuse: the screen and then use the seam sealer around the existing gasket on the cover. I'll tighten down the whole thing and also use some of the seam sealer around the nuts that have the rubber gaskets. Hopefully it will work. I haven't pulled up the carpets yet but they're wet and it has me concerned. I wonder how many unsuspecting Town Car Owners there are out there with this problem. Do you think it's an age issue related to the foam shrinking or drying out or maybe the adhesive Ford used? Maybe it's an engineering issue?
  • I looked at the whole setup the other night.The inner door seals have a gap between the body and the door.I tried to adjust them and it comes off one side while going on the other.It's like that at the 4 doors.I might do your hose thing as well when it stops raining!The inner door seals have the inside of them covered w/interior color material.That's how certain ones came.
  • ok- I'll check mine too! :cry:
  • I'm just wondering the way the doors are designed how the water would soak the carpets if seals or weatherstripping was bad on the doors or the body. I would think that the water would run down to the sill and outside. My carpet is only wet in the rear in the footwell, not the surrounding areas on top which would leave me to believe that it's coming from the front and settling in the rear at the lowest point. :cry:
  • Yea,if you see a space when you're sitting in the car chances are they're bad.
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    Hi
    the gaskets on the fasteners will crush down that is ok. the thing to be sure of is that the inside of the air inlet is tight against the plennum chamber. the outer housing (which you removed with the 8mm and 11mm fasteners) is the starting point of the penetration in the air vent, as long as that is your leak. make sure you seal this as described in the previous post the extra sealant that comes out when you tighten down the housing when brused over will form a seal around the back of the outer air vent cover. i have seen this problem as well as cowl seem and hvac main seal leaks in town cars right off the showroom floor, so sometimes age is a factor but not always. the foam gaskets and other sealants will shrink and crack with age in any vehicle. finding out what area the water is coming from is the most improtant step, otherwise you are just guessing and possibly wasting your time and efforts. Lincoln town cars , Ford Crown vics, and mercury grand marquis have had these problems for at least 20 yrs. with slight variations per model.
    LOL if i can be of help let me know.
  • Ralka,where you been?Glad you're chiming in here.I ordered the driver door seal for mine.I pulled the floor plug out a little the other night from the back and a good amount of water dripped out.Still gets a little wet on the passenger side.I see that that door seal is gapped too,so I'll get another one for that door too.
  • ralka: should I tighten as hard as I can then and compress the foam as much as I can? I definitely think the water is coming in there. I took up the carpet in the front passenger and it was soaked(saw the two drain plugs and removed them for some circulation)-also the jute backed pad on the firewall was soaked so it's definitely coming from the top- also all the gaskets for all the plastic pieces I removed were wet as well as the foam gasket below the screen. I can see why it's important to add additional gasket material in the rear of the the vent cover as mine is compressed and there's a large gap between the gasket and the edge of the plastic. Have you had to replace the carpet in any of the cars you've worked on or remove the seats and the console to take up all the carpet? Once the leak is fixed would you worry about mold,,rust,etc.? :(
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    99towncarexec
    hi
    on the drivers side did you actually see water comong from the weatherstrip and soaking the floor?
    on the pass side do you see water dripping or the floor wet and where?
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    robkstone
    when you tighten the fasteners just give it enough to compress the sealant around them and a little more . you don't want to force them so tight that you strip them out. when you run water over the top for a while, with the carpet pulled back watch the bottom of the hvac box( on the inside of the car) there is a section on the right hand lower corner that is a rounded mounting flange with the back end of a mounting bolt Like a carriage bolt head. see if there is a trail of water coming from the bottom of it. sometimes it is hard to see, use a bright flashlight and move the jute padding as much as you can for visability. also on the right side lower a-pillar/kick plate area move the rubber backing under the wire connectors back as much as you can and see if there is water coming down the firewall in the wheel well area( again sometines it is hard to see without a flash light and knowing whatyou are looking for) but if either of these things are occuring you have your work cut out for you. the carpet is a foam backing on some which to dry out you would need to take out the pass seat and remove the rear seat lower cushion
    remove the trim pieces that secure the carpet and lift the entire pass side up. use a wet vac to dry with fans. it does take time. if it is dry you won't have any mold issues you can use any disinfectant if you are concerned Lysol is fine.

    I have to work on one of these this week (Ironic isn't it). but this one has a cowl seam leak as well and the only way to get at that is with the fender off .
    let me know what you find.
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    I have to tell you that you should really make sure that the weatherstrips are you problem, in 23 yrs of fixing leaks i can count on one hand the times i have had to replace lincoln t/c door strips and not all of those were for this problem. and those that were were leaks higher on the door and very obvious. :confuse:
    I don't want to see you waste your hard earned $$$ on something you may not need.
    good luck
  • No,haven't actually seen water come thru the stripping.I was going to run it thru a car wash to take a look.It rained hard as hell last night and I was out in it and saw no leaking thru there.I have towels on the floor,front and back,that are soaked.The front more so then then the back.What else could it be??
  • Ralka: I want to take this opportunity to thank you for all your help and expertise with my problem. I really appreciate the time you're taking to answer all my questions. It's very generous of you. I think I know what you're alluding to. If the leaks are from the additional areas you mentioned I might also have a cowl seam leak or a leak from inside the fender, where I would have to remove the fender to repair it. Is the HVAC box the black plastic piece that is below the glovebox or is that just a cover that I have to remove in order to make it visible? It looks like the jute backed pad that rests against the firewall goes the entire width of the car into the driver's side as well. What a mess! Thanks for all the tips! What do you think of the rubber seam product by Sherwin Williams compared to the Reseal by Crest products? You must be in the auto body business. Where are you from? :sick:
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    which side are we talking about?
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    if you remove the kick plate on the right side of the car ( the trim piece directly in front of the door, under the dash that meets your carpet, the same color as yur interior trim) than yu can pull the corer of yur carpet back almost allthe way to the center of the car front, and move the side rubber directly under the kick plate some. yu can than see the lower hvac case(black) and the wheel well to dash seam area to deturmin where the water is coming from.
    i don't know about the sherwin williams product . as long as it is pliable long enough to work with while yu put the vent cover on , i guess it could work.
    suggest you test it first to see how long yu have to spread it after applied.
  • Ralka,my wet floors are driver front and back.The passenger side is a little wet but nothing compared to before the fix under the hood.
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    take a serious look at the hood release grommet while running water across the top of the car.( with the kick plate off and the carpet pulled back to see). same on the right side there could be other issues. do you see the water dripping on the right side or is it just wet?. suggest you use a hose without a spray end and let the water flow over the windshield towards the side you are checking.
  • Nah,it's just wet.I haven't seen any water dripping anywhere and was raining cats and dogs last night while I was driving down the highway.To cold up here now to run a hose.I'll have to go thru a car wash or something.
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    yea it getting cold now. if you go through a carwash have the carpets back enough to see. but i would guess there is a secondary culprit on the right front
  • Ralka,how do the carpets come up??Do I remove the plastic around the bottom of the door,etc/ to get the carpet up?It's been a while!lol. Where would I look at the hood release grommet??Inside or under the hood?Thanks.
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    if you remove the kick plate on the right side of the car ( the trim piece directly in front of the door, under the dash that meets your carpet, the same color as yur interior trim) than you can pull the corner of your carpet back almost all the way to the center of the car front. then follow the cable from the hood release lever under the dash to the black grommet it passes through in the dash. this is what you watch when you run water on the outside. you can see it from the outside to if yu look for it. look at my thread to "robkstone" post #72 and #77 for more things to look for on the right side.
  • Ralka: I went to the Ford dealer in my area and ordered Motorcraft #F8AZ-19554-CA Liquid Butyl Sealer after I saw a service bulletin from Ford on the water leaks but they claim the leaks are caused by a skip or a void in the production sealer somewhere around the periphery of the windshield. Nothing is mentioned about the fresh air vent.
    Never the less, I called Sherwin Williams and the product they sell is made by 3M, and they didn't have it in stock, so I'm going with the Ford product. Do you think I should put some sealer on the gap where part of the foam gasket that is exposed holds the fresh air housing to the cowl? :(
  • Thanks Ralka.I'll look into this tomorrow since I'm off.I'll get the windshield looked at to just for the hell of it.Where are you located anyway??NY buy any chance?
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    sometimes the glass leaks .to confirm remove the inner a-pillar trim on the wet side and run water and watch the inner urethane.
    and unless you are going to complete the entire vent repair i would not put any sealer there. ( it will make removal difficult later).
    just for comparison i have fixed probably 200 of these vehicles over the last 23 yrs
    . and maybe 20 have had factory defects in the windshield urethane.
    use the butyl if it is not a runny product . you want a sealant with some body to it

    good luck
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    no N.E. PA
  • Are you anywhere near NJ??Jersey shore??North Jersey?
  • Ralka:

    Do you repair cars for a living? I'm located in the Philadelphia suburbs and would be willing to come to you if my fresh air vent fix doesn't work.

    thanks,

    rob stone
  • Ralka- I Took a look at that just now.The rug was sure enough wet underneath,but the grommet area was dry in there and under the hood.I also poured water right down the windshield into that area w/the rug pulled back etc.,and nothing came thru that I could see.It was dry.
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