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Synthetic motor oil

19798100102103175

Comments

  • americanflagamericanflag Member Posts: 400
    is I guess documented, although who cares. In the event of a disaster it will be a matter of hiring a lawyer to get the warranty honored anyway.

    But I like the Mobil 1 oil. How much extra does it really cost, especially considering the cost of gas these days? The difference in cost seems like a minor factor.

    Have you seen pictures of engines that ran on dino and are all gunked up versus those ran on synthetic that are clean as a bell?

    And what about cold starts? Short of a pre-oiler, doesn't synthetic offer extra protection here?

    Don't know, lot of questions in the oil lubrication world, but I feel good about Mobil 1 oil. Would rather err on the side of quality considering my vehicle is new (like yours) and I want it to last.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    Today's cars don't have grease fittings and don't need lube jobs. All the bearings are now sealed up and don't take grease. I have a 1990 Mustang GT that I bought brand new and have never lubed It still runs great. It has certainly not been repair free but has not had any engine or drivetrain repairs except 1 blown headgasket about 4 years ago.
  • amoralesamorales Member Posts: 196
    I was at Kragens last week looking for oil and came accross a newly shaped bottle from Pennzoil and it said 100% synthetic. The older bottle with the Spaceman and outer space background advertising the benefits of PENNZANE, a lubricant used by NASA was nowhere to be found. This new
    bottle had a price of around $4.59. I was considering switching from Mobil 1 SyperSYN due to the $5.00/qt cost. Currently changing at 5000 mi intervals with DELCO AC filters.

    Regards to all

    Andy
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    If your 90' Mustang is anything like my 91', you have two grease fittings. Why would you not lube them? Also, I believe there are still some trucks with grease fittings.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5013

    I am pretty positive that the lack of Pennzane hype is due to the change in marketing. I think the market research indicated that Pennzane did not provide the "advantage" they had hoped.

    I would tend to stay with the Mobil One product. If the cost is the concern, extend the oil change interval, say to the 7500 mile interval. While Penzoil may say 100% synthetic, remember that post Mobil One trial definitions in effect legally REDEFINES that "hydro cracked synthetic" oil CAN meet the PRE trial definition of 100% synthetic!!! If you look at their site and they say PAO's then they are indicating the old definition. If PAO's ARE noticeably absent or buried in with the legalize gobbity goop, I think that is a FAR greater hint!! For example Mobil One, most Amsoil, and Redline display synthetic/PAO prominently.

    Perhaps if you look at the BIGGER picture it may help to put it into perspective. Pennzoil merged with Quaker State who bought Jiffy Lube (you know the 3k oil change interval or do you know your crankcase can die if you go over 3k oil change intervals). This threesome company has been recently been bought up by Shell Oil Company which in turn is owned by the very global, Royal Dutch Petroleum. I apologize if I left anybody out in the gobbling process.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    Can you give me a way to verify what you say?
  • amoralesamorales Member Posts: 196
    Thanks for the insight. Checked out all sites. Will stay with Mobil 1. Being i drive 95% the L.A. freeways at commute hours, this will offer best protection. 6000 mi intervals is the plan.
    Magnetic drain plug so far has been spotless...
    first oil change was at 2500, then 5000 thereafter even though oil is still honey color. Vehicle has 8,000 miles...
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    I can't remember exactly where they were because I sold the car a while ago, but I know they were up front. Check the tie rod ends and lower ball joints. I never had any suspension work done to that car, so I know that the fittings were there from the factory.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5017

    http://www.ml.afrl.af.mil/mlb/s-nonstructmatspacesys.html

    This is a USAF Materials and Manufactoring Directorate, space materials executive summary. Germane to our discussion is the point that they are looking for PENNZANE REPLACEMENTS! There is also a passing reference tht the VI or viscosity index (139)is good for Pennzane BUT PAO is (145) better
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I can see two uses for synthetics: better engine protection if you drive hard (I do), or extended drain intervals if you don't have time to go to the shop (the BMW approach).

    BMW's come with synthetic since most new BMW's are leased and the owners don't care what happens to their car, long term - it's hard to get them to come in for services, they are too busy or at least think their time is too valuable. On the other hand, BMW wants some resale value, so BMW usually provides free maintenance (and since BMW is paying, that is why it is also in BMW's interest to have extended drain intervals) and synthetic oil. (The problem of leased cars being abused with lack of service isn't unique to BMW; Ford has a special spec on its 5-20 oil which which is supposed to ward off extended oil change interval problems.)

    As for myself, I like to drive my poor little economy car, with its stickshift, like a sports car. Thus for my use, 3-5k oil change intervals are the most I want to go. Especially, I think most oil filters are built for the "lowest common denominator" (that is, for 3k oil change intervals) so I don't feel like leaving some cheap fiber in the oil flow path for more than 5k miles.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5020

    Nothing says you can't buy and expensive filter! :)
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    There is no particularly compelling evidence favoring expensive filters. Like you say, you can buy one, if "cheap" filters leave you wanting. But for what it's worth, it appears that a good midgrade filter such as those made by Champion and sold under many house brand names are all the quality needed to protect the engine quite adequately.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I personally am beginning to beleive filters are pretty much useless. On one car I am testing a theory. Normally I have gone 12,000 miles between changes with a new filter and top off at 6000 miles. I have two analysis reports on this scenario. On the current fill I am going 12,000 miles again but I have not changed the filter, now at about 9000 miles on it. Will see what the analysis says but I am betting that there will be no difference with not changing the oil filter.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Having run a 1970 VW , (READ: NO OIL FILTER, has an oil screen like a kitchen china cap and or strainer) I would totally agree. However, given a choice between having a filter or not I would chose a filter. The other TOTALLY ignored aspect is the concept of pre oilers. As folks are aware and even the oil companies know and acknowledge and even market, fully 60% of total engine wear happens at start up. Oil filters do screen out app 40% of the total engine wear. Further smaller particle filtration: as through a Mobil One filter decreases 40% of this 40% or 16% total (if I have done the math correctly) But really how much longer do you want a 1970 VW engine to go to? 400k 500k?

    So in systems terms, the best solution is to put in preoilers, but this would ridiculously extend the engine's economic useful life!!!

    (so for example using app 250k x 60%= 150k+ 250k= 400k.)

    Pardon me for being totally gross, but I do wonder how the 1970 VW would run with today's Mobil One 5W-30 SL with conversion to unleaded gas and a valve hardening job for that specification!
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    The only Group IV synth available at retail is Mobil One afaik. Pennzoil's synth is Group III. No one seems to know how much Pennzane was in Pennzoil's synth but an educated guess is "not much".

    For $4.59 I'd be all over Mobil One SuperSyn in whatever flavor you prefer. Check places like Walmart and Target for good deals. Sometimes you'll see them match local competitors pricing. M1 is also sold at Costco for under $4.00/qt.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    As far as oil filters are concerned, they are not all created equal. Top tier filters tend to have a better quality check valve, better quality filter media,will filter smaller particulate, higher capacity, and certainly a nice heavy case. When non high end filters are used with a top synthetic oil, they should be change at filter manufactures reccommendation (usually 7,500 miles) under mostly highway driving. If you are like me, and mix in some idling, or low speed operation around town. I would change filter at 3K max. At least one brand of oil filter is rated at 6 months, or 12,500 miles when used with their oil. Syn.oils also are not all the same. I know of only one that is blended for extended drain interval, and says so on each bottle. And yes, running a quality synthetic oil will give better longivity than any petro. oil, or ugggg a synthetic blend.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5026

    For sure you are correct. The real question is what synthetic oils and as an adjunct will fulfill your wants needs and for my 2 cents, bang for the buck.

    On the issue of oil filters I use two AC Delco PF-44 (2.) and an OEM TLC ($3.)(PF53 equivalent and will use the Super Tech @ 1.97 when I use up the stash I have). If I get the premium UPF44 ($8)or a Mobil One ($12) am I really getting 4 to 6x's the value?

    I was reading on one web site about an oil 5w-30(Amsoil, I think) that has a 35,000 mile advertised interval between oil changes. WOW !! However, if you check most, if not all oil manufacturers the drop dead recommendation is x amount of miles OR 12 mo/1 year intervals. So for me the Mobil One 5w-30 (can go 3000-15,000 miles as an interval) fits the usage and bang for the buck equation. Not to mention the fact that one of my vehicles computers is calibrated with this product in mind. Coincidently, I had been using the Mobil One 5w-30 for the same intervals in TLC's for many miles (in excess of 600k), so if anything this product has proved itself over a long period of time not to mention miles.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    . As far as long drain is concerned. Amsoil 0W/30 is a 35k or 1 year oil. What you mentioned about the 5W/30 Amsoil has a 25k oil, they have another 5W/30 that is a mixed fleet oil (gas or diesel) it is rated at 25k for gas, with diesel, and bypass filters the sky is the limit with analysis. These ratings are for sound engines, under normal conditions. Severe duty could be less, but thats where analysis is helpful.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    . As far as long drain is concerned. Amsoil 0W/30 is a 35k or 1 year oil. What you mentioned about the 5W/30 Amsoil has a 25k oil, they have another 5W/30 that is a mixed fleet oil (gas or diesel) it is rated at 25k for gas, with diesel, and bypass filters the sky is the limit with analysis. These ratings are for sound engines, under normal conditions. Severe duty could be less, but thats where analysis is helpful.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5028

    I stand corrected about the Amoil 0w-30. Again this is instructive. For example: if I went 35,000 miles in a year, I would definitely consider Amsoil 0w-30.
  • greenmaxgreenmax Member Posts: 47
    I've read oil analyses of Mobil1 where the TBN is shot down in half (6) in as little as 3k miles. Before you risk your engine, please do some oil analyses while gradually increasing the drain interval. I have gone 6 months (3k) on Mobil1 but the fuel dilution, viscosity and TBN were not satisfactory to continue using it past that point.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5032

    While I understand your concern, would you put some numbers or consequences when you say "risk" the engine? I sold a 16k 1987TLC for 9k (yes this thing was scoped out by a Toyota Dealer before sale, once by me and once by the prospective turned actual buyer) after about 14 years of running it and app 250k miles with 15k mile intervals with Mobil One. Another TLC (sold to a relative) has in excess of 130k. My daughter drives one that has 100k. I have app 50k on a Z06. (you can bet the dealers want to sell me MASSIVE repair services and at minium a Borsch type hot solvent engine cleaning [200-300 dollars] )
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    #5032
    Right on regarding TBN. I have found using Amsoil 0w/30 that I can hold a TBN of 6 or higher under fleet usage for in excess of 15k, with the other parameters you mentioned under acceptable limits. On a vehicle with bypass filtration however, the oil life can be considerably higher. Mobil 1 really does not advertise its life to be much beyond 3-5k miles. I could see it doing ok in highway miles for 6 months or 7.5k.though. That is what I like about Amsoil, you get what you pay for.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    Can you give us a link to these oil analyses that have a 6 or less TBN at 3K miles? I have not seen anything close to that. I had a TBN of 8 at 7k miles on my first analysis and intend to push it toward 8k and see what the analysis looks like.

    You seem to have something wrong with your engine that has nothing to do with the oil.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5035

    That was my take also!
  • ch1133ch1133 Member Posts: 43
    I have two cars: 89 Toyota Tercel and 92 Taurus. I have changed oil Mobil 1 reguraly at 10,000 miles (yes, it is easy to track that way) Both cars run as new after over 150 K miles, Taurus towed a 2800 lbs boat during summer heat numerous times. Both engines run like new...
    No reaon to change the oil changes but you can change your oil each 3000 miles if that feels good to you....
  • greenmaxgreenmax Member Posts: 47
    Sure, how about this one: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;- f=3;t=000362 It's not my truck so I can't give you more details on it but it's a fairly new engine. And what about this one with TBN of 5 after 4600 miles: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;- f=3;t=000313 How about this one at 5000 miles (still dropping): http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;- f=3;t=000270
    Again, I am not saying that Mobil1 is a bad oil. What I'm saying is to make sure you tread carefully when you extend the oil interval because the engines aren't cheap these days. Some engines will be easy on Mobil1 but make sure yours is one of them by analyzing the oil.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    but they are not the norm as people on those threads have noted. On the 2nd one, people seem to think that the M1 was cleaning up the dinos that were used previously on it.

    I do agree with you that you should do an oil analysis on an extended drain but you should not EXPECT these kind of results since they are not the norm. If you get these kind of results, I would also look for other problems in the engine that might explain it instead of just automatically blaming it on the oil.
  • joatmonjoatmon Member Posts: 315
    I find many cases on another board (BITOG) where a blend, Schaeffers (#700, #701, & #703) held up better than Mobil 1. Not all blends are bad.

    Jack
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Disappointing to hear folks dismiss the significance of a few reports where Mobil 1's TBN dropped much quicker than one would expect. I Sure, it's not the norm. But that isn't the point. The point is, this sort of bad result CAN happen and people should not automatically blindly assume they can go 7500 or 10,000 miles with Mobil 1. Some vehicles seem to be harder on oil than others, right?

    And why are folks so quick to jump on the idea that there's something else wrong with the engines in which these subpar analysis results were obtained?
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    What do you use?
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    This is great to hear some discussion on extended drain. I have not seen much posted on Amsoil Lubricants. They are the company that since 1972 has embraced, and encouraged long drain intervals. I use only Amsoil products myself, however I have nothing bad to say about Mobil 1, except it is not formulated to go super long drain interval, not that it might not under certain ideal conditions, but it would be the exception. I do not want to use this as a forum, but if anyone would like additional Amsoil info.on long drain interval, just link through my profile to my e-mail. I would be glad to steer you in the right direction.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5041

    The purpose of oil analysis is to identify trends and spot problems with the engine and NOT the oil !!!! The oil is really the "mirror". So the first order of business is to necessarily mitigate the "problem"
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5045

    If you are referring to long drain intervals as 25,000 to 35,000. I would probably agree with you. If you are saying Mobil One can not go from 3000 to 15,000 then I disagree.

    The drop dead date for almost all oils, synthetic or even conventional is 12 mo or a year. EVEN Amsoil posts this. So again, if one does 25,000 to 35,000 miles in a year and wants to change it once a year, then it would make sense to look at Amsoil as a product.

    If Amsoil costs the same as Mobil One, I would say go for Amsoil. There is a perceived advantage. But I think that you would agree, Amsoil sells at a premuim to Mobil One. (abeit, considerable.)

    Most "average" drivers go 12,000-15,000 miles in a year. An even smaller population change oil at these intervals!!!! So as one can see to buy a product made to go 25,000-35,000 with 13,000-20,000 miles of useful life remaining is at best oxymoronic. (technically that is 50% waste)
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Currently using whichever SL oils are well-regarded and cheaply available at the current time. Used Mobil 1 for 18 months in one car (previous owner used Mobil 1 so I continued with it) and switched from dino to Mobil 1 on another vehicle. Stayed that course for 20k miles then switched back to dino oil.

    The 2 brands in my garage right now are Citgo SuperGard (5W30 and 10W30) and Chevron Supreme (10W30). Wal-Marts in my area haven't had the 5W30 Chevron for about a year. I also have some Mobil Delvac 1300 15W40 which I used in an effort to reduce oil consumption in one of our vehicles. Will probably try it again in the spring. The Citgo is $1.13/qt at Meijer and frequently has a $4.80 case rebate. Chevron is $1.08 at Wal-Mart. Some Costco Wholesale stores have it even cheaper, but not my local ones. Some of the more expensive dinos such as Pennzoil and Castrol GTX seem good too, but I see no reason to pay > $1.50/qt for them when cheaper, as-good alternatives are widely available.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Amsoil

    Problem is most of the oil analysis results that I have seen on Amsoil ( my own included, and I have a binder full of them) indicate that the oil can not go beyond 15,000 miles and still provide good protection. In my Toyota I know it can't and I have years of analysis to prove it. So please, I use the stuff in 5 cars but no AJ hype please. Only under ideal and I mean ideal conditions can Amsoil go 25,000 miles in one year but under 99.9 % of driving conditions we are looking at 7,500 maybe 12,000 max on this stuff. It certainly did not prevent the Toyota V6 sludge factories of 1999-2001 from sludgin up, and yes, Amsoil was used in some of these.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5047

    If what you are saying is true, then the premuim paid for Amsoil is total over kill over Mobil One!

    The other thing is that the Toyota V-6 sludge problem probably means that there are some areas in the engine that the oil washes over that exceeds 450 degrees.

    If I ever considered a Toyota V6 Camry vs a Honda Accord V6, I know which to get and not get. I have used Toyota products for a over 15 years. So while not good news, it is critical to know.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    I do not quite know what you mean by AJ hype. If you have 5 cars that run Amsoil, and you have never had a good analysis beyond 15k, then there must be some very apparent things entering into the picture. What filters do you use, are there issues with the engines, or driving conditions, short trips, excessive low speed conditions, overcooling, etc.etc.etc. Non 2000 series Amsoil lubes test very well in average conditions for 15k+ normally, more under highway conditions. This of course in engines in generally good condition. 2000 series 0w/30 even better. Amsoil would not market a product since 1972 as a 25K lube if the high drain potential was as difficult as you say to achieve. In extended drain, combustion particulate can can affect oil considerably. Many customer who want to just add make up oil, and change filters, use bypass filtration, and analysis with results that can be from 2-5 times the figures previously mentioned. This is not hype, this is a fact proven over the last 30 years.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    You raise some good points about the Toyota V6. I do not think that a lubricant can solve an engine, or design issue. Although if I owned one of those sludge bombs, rest assure that I would use the best lube I could buy, the best filtration, and regular analysis as a basis for keeping an eye on engine condition. I do however think that under normal conditions, with an engine that has good sealing against internal, and external leakage, there is no finer, or more cost effective product than Amsoil. And the wear protection it offers is excellent also. Independent testing supports this also.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    Engine condition, driving conditions, type of filtration, and last but not least in determining how long a lube will last is the oil capacity of the engine. A vehicle that has a 3.5 qt. crankcase will be hard pressed under similar conditions, to deliver the same drain interval as a vehicle that has a 6-8 quart capacity. These are by no means all the crieteria involved but its a good start.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Please go to this site. Believe me, no hype here and several Amsoil reps will disagree with you that this prodict can consistently go 15,000 miles. You are not in the real world. And yes, AJ is as sleazy as they come and I read his article in that rag once a month. Maybe your interpretation of good oil analysis results differs from the people and reps on Bob's site but for the most part Amsoil does not do anywhere as well as you state. Many Amsoil reps particiapte in that site as you will find out.

    http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;- - f=3;t=000368

    Oh, the warranty is not worth the paper it is printed on and has never paid off and never will because under Amsoil's definition the oil can never fail, it has to be an engine defect!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    You just dismissed armtdm's real-world Amsoil experiences, in multiple vehicles, as if they are worthless and/or totally invalid. Not wise.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for providing us all a link to that site on oil analysis. I took quite alot of time to casually go through the format. I reccommend that site to any person really interested in learning about analysis go to it also. Clearly it provides some insight into the variables involved in different engines, the lubricants that are in those engines, and the conditions that the engines operate in. I do think though that your bashing, and pounding of Amsoil must have some underlying reason. However why don't you let people make their own decision on what lube is best for them. Mileage of oil life become a factor of many things. Most Amsoil dealers will work with every customer to best advise them, based on vehicle, vehicle condition, cost, and then its really up to the the customer to make the final decision on what they feel is best for them. I do believe that that process, almost without any exception. That way is far better than a person going to the average garage, or Dept. Store, or quick lube and asking the person there which oil is best for him.

    I stand by my previous posts, and remarks about the oil that I market. I work very closely with every customer, and account that I service. And I do not bash any product. I give the best info. that I can.

    In summing up: Oil analysis interpretation is very subjective. And oil life has many variables. An we should let drivers make their choices for themself with them being as informed as possible.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    I did not dismiss anything of armtdm. What do you mean unwise? Remember this is only discussion. Why all the adjectives from him. This forum is for information exchange. And benefit of all. Isn't it?
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    This is a discussion. I am not an Amsoil basher, great product, really sleazy marketing. I have been using this for 11 years, ( yea, a dealer that long too, surprise you?) ATF also but switched to RedLine gear oils for my 6 spd. They simply out perform Amsoil for my application, especially in cold weather.

    Why I came on strong to you is simple, you came across as an Amsoil zealot (also referenced your site to market the product) who feels that there is only one product ( Amsoil) and that it performs as marketed in every scenario. There are other great products as well, RedLine, Royal Purple and all do as well or better, depending on the application, as Amsoil, as does Mobil 1. I have my proof, via analysis that it depends on the engine, driving conditions, climate, driver etc. as to how long an engine can go between changes and in my 5 vehicles it would not go 25,000 miles let alone 15,000. I still use it. Why, a good product and I get it dirt cheap as I live in a city with a distribution center.

    The Amsoil reps on Bob's site concur that no one should go beyond 7500 miles with Amsoil or any oil without analysis and I totally concur with them; my experience shows this to me. One rep even refuses to sell the Amsoil air filter as he feels it is not up to snuff ( I agree based upon 3 vehicle uses of these, oil analysis (silicon went down after returning to OEM paper) and they fell apart from the heat after 3 years) What I like about Bob's board and the reps there is that they are willing to state that some products work great for them others they do not feel comfortable with. They are not zealots. The zealot has given the Amsoil name a bad reputation and that hurts sales more then being objective and reasonable about all products.

    Oh, I did not mean to bash Amsoil on their warranty, the Quaker State one, Mobil 1 also are all worthless as one can never ever prove the oil was the cause of the failure. And, it was not an opinion, Amsoil has never ever paid off once on its warranty, even with the Toyota sludged engines (yea, I know design flaw). So, I guess if one is going to post a warranty it should be noted that, by the way, no one has ever shown that the oil was the cause of the failure.

    So, as long as we do not become unrealistic zealots of one product as being the best I think we can all live peacefully on this forum.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #5056

    I think the Toyota V6 sludge question really hammers home the point that the oil OEM's will not stand behind a repair with their engine oil in it!!

    I also made the decision to stay with OEM air filters both on the TLC and the Corvette due to more particulate and dust pass through of which you speak than the derided OEM filter.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Did you ever get a chance to look for the grease fittings on your Mustang?
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    but I could not find them. I also checked the Maintenance Schedule that came with the car. It is a Mustang/Thunderbird/Cougar/Grand Marquis combination maintenance schedule. It specifically calls for you to "Lubricate steering linkage (inner-outer tie rod ends both sides, pitman arm socket) Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis" every 15K miles. Notice there was no mention of the Mustang in that. Then is also calls for you to "Lubricate suspension Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis" every 15K miles. Again, there is no mustang mentioned for that. Those are the only lubing items mentioned in this combination maintenance schedule.

    I will ask my mechanic or oil change tech next time I see them but so far I see nothing.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    I guess we are much more on the same wave length than I first thought. Thanks for that. Regarding the air filters though, I have not seen the heat issue, in daily drivers as of yet. I have though,
    felt that if the foam element is oiled without complete drying, (I tend to have a spare) overnight, they will tend to dry out. Apparently, when oiled without complete drying, the oil holds the moisture in the foam, and degrades it in a season or two. What about your preferances on oil filters. Which do you tend to use? Have you used any bypass filtration? And yeh, I do not push the 25, and 35k. Like you said, every case is very different.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    If it's a 1990, I'm almost 100% sure it has 2 grease fittings. My 1991 did. I used to work at a oil change joint back in those days and I had to grease Mustangs all the time. I wouldn't be surprised by a typo in the maintenance schedule. My Mazda's calls for 2 different oil capacities for the same engine, both including filter.
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