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I think syn oil has cleansing properties, which may open up leaks in your older gaskets...but I am not sure....can one of the other more knowledgeable people answer this ?
I had a suburban that I switched to syn oil....and then it developed a leak...
Regarding you question about "...I've heard that using synthetics is the same as using conventional oils."
Hmmm, I wouldn't say "the same as"; however, given a few key differences, they can be used in generally the same way.
1) Synthetic oils have a "temperature advantage" at both ends of the scale. As a rule, they flow better when real cold and they also flow better and don't coke as easily when real hot. This extra ability to flow when cold is usually a benefit; however, if you have a small leak that normally stops as the engine cools (and the oil thickens), you may find that you leak more oil.
2) High quality true synthetic oils generally do a better job of keeping the insides of an engine clean for any number of reasons. When changing to synthetic on a high mileage engine, you might find that the synthetic oil cleans enough varnish and other deposits (left behind by your old oil) from inside your engine that you initially need to change the oil more often (due to the fact that your new oil is being required to hold that stuff in suspension). You might also find that the extra cleaning capability cleans its way through enough gunk to start other leaks.
3) Due to its greater stability at high temperatures, synthetic oil doesn't cause varnish to build up on various parts inside the engine. This is also a mixed blessing. Your engine is cleaner inside, however, if said engine sees intermittent use; it is also more likely to corrode from the inside out than it would with conventional oil.
4) While this item is no longer much of an issue, it is still worth mentioning every now and again: Synthetic oil is incapable of holding lead (TEL) in suspension, which conventional oils have no problem doing at all. Using Synthetic oil with leaded fuel is a sure formula for gummed up piston rings (among other nasty side-effects).
Having said all of that, I don't see any reason why you couldn't take a high mileage engine, button it up with new gaskets, and go on your merry way.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
But make no mistake the customer whether he realizes it or not pays far more for the certifications than he knows.
how goes it?
what do you think about the new oil marketed by mobil....the 5000, 7500, and 15000 ? they are supposed to last the same number of miles as the name implies. Is it a gimmick, or do the extra long living synthetics do the trick better than the regular synthetics ? I thought my regular Mobil 1 would do the trick for 9000 plus miles..
I think it is an interesting strategic corp plan to trump and overtake Castrol's "successful" marketing coup for calling and marketing hydrocracked conventional oils (group III) as "synthetic".
Synthetic oil (to me as a consumer) is PAO group IV vs group III based. As a practical matter, I probably am in a minority position. I will still buy group IV. Unfortunately or fortunately Castrol has read the tea leaves correctly as it affects/effects the consumer. Plus they have a way higher margin (synthetic "synthetic" :)hydrocracked group III is far cheaper than real synthetic base stocks)
For me, it does not change much! I still get the so called "old" Mobil One 5w30. Still run the 15,000 miles OCI's. The other "old" Delvac One 5w40 aka Mobil One Truck and SUV is the SOS (not a bad thing by any means) but as you have probably noticed has FAR different packaging. Again for me it is application specific. (TDI)Because of TDI specific issues, I have run 10k to 25,000 OCI's.
The reason I do not switch to the so called EP is a bit old school: doesn't meet the (GM 4178, CI-4) specs and EP is also at a buck or so premium over the now "middle (product) child".
Since we last compared notes, I have the need for the Mobil One 0w20. So I bought 80,000 miles worth of changes!
How did you leak issues turn out?
:-)
my leak issues have not surfaced and is doing well....I am running regular Mobil 1 oil for both the acura TL, and the cayenne. The suburban is still running regular dino oil...but I think it is time to switch to synthetics...
I still have not changed the oil in the supercharger..which runs 20w-50 syn....It also has a minor leak in the supercharger...but nothing big....
I guess I should wait a few more miles to change oil...now I am changing the cayenne at 7500 OCI,,,
likewise the other cars...
I'll let you know when I change all to syn....
take care meanwhile...
:-)
https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx
If I were more inclined to consolidate brews, this seems like the Mobil product hot ticket!!
Best Regards,
Shipo
Hmmm, let's hear it for grey hairs in the old beard, lots of them. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have 99 Buick Regal (82K miles, 3.8L Push Rod V-6). The owners manual said that at low temperatures, I can run 5w-30, but over about 60 degrees F, I should run 10w-30.
I was wondering if a synthetic 5w-30 (Mobil 1) would protect well enough at higher temperatures to use in this car all year around.
I bet the thinner oil would give me a little better fuel economy, but would I risk any engine damage due to the loss of viscosity.
To my understanding, pre-2001 3.8l engines sap oil when parked. Not all engines, just few copies, but it happened with 5w-30 when it is hot outside. 10W-30 oil is more viscous and does not sap even in summer. This is why 10w-30 is recommended for summer. I have read it somewhere on Internet.
I am using Mobil 10w-30 all year. For simple reason: I live in Connecticut. The winter temperature here often rises above 60F, and not so seldom falls below 0F. Viscosity of synthetic 10w-30 (when starting engine) does not change with the outside temperature as much as viscosity of natural oil.
To my understanding, 5w-30 would not save much gas. The only difference with 10w-30 is when the engine is just starting cold, I would say the first minute or two, five minutes at most.
On the other hand, even slight overinflation of tires will save gas. I am inflating my tires to 32 psi, with 30 psi recommended by manual.
It seems more and more autos are going to longer oil intervals. GM is using 10,000 miles on some, and Porsche is moving to a 20,000 mile oil change interval. So I fail to understand why so many people still insist on sticking with 3,000 miles.
Is there any rational reason I should think about using 3,000 mile oil change intervals, other than to make me feel better? I don't plan on keeping my cars for 300,000 miles, so what's the point?
These are processes that proceed somewhat in opposite directions to come out with very similar products. The first builds bigger molecules from smaller ones, while the second reduces big molecules into smaller ones. Previous posters have stated that certain court cases have given permission to call the products of these processes "synthetic oil". If I recall correctly, Castrol uses hydrocracking to produce their American market "synthetic oil" product.
I know it probably has not escaped anybody's notice that Mobil has a new product line up with the " 5,000, 7500, "normal " synthetic and new EP synthetic. So two of the 4 product lines are non group IV's.
Regarding your claim of a 3 mpg increase; pure fantasy. It is a fact that any decent 0W-30 "Synthetic" will provide a slight improvement in fuel economy, especially compared to say a 15W-40. However, three miles to the gallon? Not happening. If it was true, every auto manufacturer in the world would be beating a path to the HQ of Amsoil in search of a cheap way to improve their CAFE numbers.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Krzys
that some engines were designed with slighly better oil in mind than "inexpensive dino oil". Try Toyota Camry V6 or VW 1.8T.
Krzys
I agree 100%. As a rule of thumb, anything German, read the manual and follow it religiously as to grade and type of oil and frequency of changes (on VW, the manual for the humble 2.0 incorporates a synthetic requirement through the "back door" - 5W-40 is recommended and if you do your research you find out it is only available as a full synthetic oil, so if you use the alternate approved 5-30 grade because you can't find 5W-40, it's probably a good idea to use full synthetic in that grade too, although conventional oils in that grade are plentiful - the 2.0 in my experience throws off a lot of heat, particularly drive 80 mph at 4,000 rpm down interstate 5 through the California central valley); and anything small and high revving with a high horsepower output per liter and/or driven with a stick would probably benefit fgreatly rom the extra protection of full synthetic. Automatics tend to be "easier" on oil because they aren't driven as hard as stick shifts, though there are of course exceptions.
I'd add: 5,000 mile oil changes with current "SM" grade, national manufacturer (no house brands or off brands, which may be old fashioned non-hydrogen refined dino oil) are a piece of cake IF you aren't stuck in traffic a lot and DON'T tow or drive a heavy load and DON'T race. The exceptions relate to the fact the #1 enemy of oil life is excess heat. Excess heat comes from either a lack of airflow over the radiator (stuck in traffic, so even though you have not operating load on the motor, you can have heat spikes), pulling a heavy load, and above 3/4 throttle operation. What happens under high stress/high temperature operations is minute quantites of oil "sludge oil" forming tiny globules of sludge.
With a fresh oil, the detergents in the oil keep the sludge from adhering to engine passageways until the oil filter can take it out of circulation. With old oil, besides losing some of its lubricating properties, the sludge can build up faster, the oil filter might be getting loaded, the oil is less detergent and sludge can begin to adhere to passages.
Thus, in a round about way, frequent oil changes (3,000 miles) can keep the problem from ever happening; except that Toyota V-6, Chrysler 2.7, and Passat 1.8 owners all swear they had sludge problems with oil change intervals ranging from 3,000-5,000 miles, which in each case are more frequent than required by the factory manual. This suggests, at least anecdotally (the manufacturers won't share information) that modern conventional motor oils are no longer up to the demands of modern high specific output engines.
I note that sludge problems in Toyota engines, 2.7 Chrysler engines, and 1.8 turbo VW engines are all recent developments. I suspect we may well hear of further sludging problems in other cars, as the horsepower races contine. Here's the problem: higher horsepower generally means more heat generated in a smaller area. We have gone from 90 horsepower 1.8 liter engines in Toyotas to 130 horespower engines. The weight of Corollas, Tercels/Echos/Scions goes up too. So all of these engines are getting more stressed. The same thing with the venerable, easy on oil Chevy pushrod engines. They keep upping the horsepower, from 150 to 170 to 200 and next year to 210 for the 3.4/3.5 engine. IF you drive easy, you'll never tap the available horsepower and throw off the extra heat. BUT if you drive hard, and 80 mph is the new 70 mph after all, well, it's harder on the oil.
Note that the problem so far isn't the ability of fresh oil to adequately lubricate the machined surfaces. It's a problem of thermal breakdown over time.
All the recent oil developments have focused on reducing engine wear additives that can affect catalytic converters and coming up with alternate war additives, plus additives to reduce friction to improve mileage. There has been no effort to produce oils (better "base stocks") that are more heat resistant and/or shear resistant. Actually, there has been, they are called Group III and Group IV full synthetics. Group IV synthetics are "engineered" up, built up from gases. Group III are ultra-highly refined conventional oils, almost to the point of engineering down large molecules to uniform, mroe stable molecules. Most conventional "dino" oil like Pennzoil is not Group I, conventionally refined base oil, it is actuall already Group II or Group II+ (a term coined by Chevron to describe their hydro-cracked/isomerized base stock) and athey re quite good; but unfortunately only Group III and IV oils have the really outstanding shear and heat resistance. I
n other words, when Castrol tells you Syntec (their full synthetic Group III) is better than conventional, it's true, and when oil heads tell you Mobil I (PAO, Group IV) is even better, its true. Unfortunately the average do it yourselfer buys case loads of conventional oil because they are on sale for 99 cents a bottle, and the average driver feels the lube shops are trying to rip him or her off by upgrading him or her from a $30 oil change to a $90 oil change.
Actually, it is true that once you get into Group III and IV oils, the life of the oil is determined more by the life of the additive package than by the breakdown of the oil itself. (Note that Mobil 1 is now promoting a 15,000 mile oil with a special beefed up additive package.*) The additive package life depends in part on engine design (clean, blow by, etc) and partly on driving habits. Personally, if I were using full synthetic in a mild applicatin I would trust oil life monitors (BMW, GM) which can run you out to 7,000-12,000 miles easily, otherwise I go conservative and change at 5,000 miles; I am in it for the performance/protection, not to save a couple of bucks on the single least expensive aspect of car ownership. (Of course I buy my own oil at Walmart and carry it in to dealer express lanes; $70 "premium" oil changes at Jiffy Lube cease to be such a bargain.) Note that if you read between the lines at the new Mobil 1 website, their extended life Mobil 1 is not recommended for "racing," in that case they recommend the traditional Mobil 1.
*Oddly enough, the Mobil 1 Extended doesn't satisfy GF3 standards; rumor has it that this is because it contains some of the older, more effective additives that are being phased out.