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Synthetic motor oil

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Comments

  • gslevegsleve Member Posts: 183
    have this antiwear element Redline, Schaffers, Synlube.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I would like to see conclusive evidence that any conventional protects even as well as any synthetic does. I haven't seen any so far.
  • bobistheoilguybobistheoilguy Member Posts: 270
    castrol, maxlife (btw has moly in it), schaeffer mineral,mobil supersyn, schaeffers blend, amsoils xl7500.


    http://bobistheoilguy.com/videos.html

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Have you seen any evidence to the contrary?

    I bought into synthetic oil for a while, but I have never been convinced that the extra money was worth it for my vehicles. In short, synthetic oil companies never demonstrated that their products were superior to petrol-based products for my fairly 'average' usage.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    synthetics oils are supposed to have the same additive package as all others ... if they are SL (API) certified...The reason I don't think this is true is that in comparative tests with Mobil 1 and dino oils, Mobil 1 was able to do tripple API Sequence tests while all Dino oils just squeaked by on single. I realize that conventional oils are now better and the playing field may be closer (assuming Mobil hasn't improved-which is I believe unlikely) but it is obvious that either Mobil 1's additive package was far superior than dino oils or could it be??-gasp! that the natural lubricating ability of syn is far superior.

    also:. A dino oil with molybdenum could be much better at preventing wear than a synthetic like Mobil 1 with reduced levels of zinc phosphate. sorry..still no proof that any products are superior to Mobil 1 in wear via certified API sequence tests and documented 200K over the road tests. Also Mobil does not use the conventional ZDDP. BTW, although I am too lazy to post all the numbers now-but after 6165 miles my oil analysis showed .0965% zinc which may or may not be relavent.Later,
    Al
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    that synthetics simply "hold up" better/longer than petrol-based oils?
  • bobistheoilguybobistheoilguy Member Posts: 270
    that the min specs for SL oils on means that and all oil manufactures have their own blend of additive which affects the base oils performance. I do agree that mobils additive package for base oil performance is extremly good but still stand by the fact the barrier additive package is not what it should be.

    As for "a dino oil with molybdenum could be much better at preventing wear than a synthetic like Mobil 1 with reduced levels of zinc phosphate" I agree with you.Unfortunatly there is some that believe that just because it's a synth, it protects better but there is no proof to that either. What Al keeps talking about with the 200,000 mile test is on their old trisynth and I don't dispute this but there is no evidence that it will do the same with the new supersyn as they haven't had time to run this same test.

    i'm afraid that after anyone runs the supersyn mobil oil for a period of time will show higher levels of wear.

    This will be proven out in time but the first or maybe even the second oil changes will not demonstrate this until the residual levels of barrier additives wear down from the previous oil.
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    I am getting ready to change the manual transaxle fluid in my 1986 Pontiac Grand Am with 128,000 miles on it. There is no pan/filter, so I'll just drain and fill. The normal replacement fluid is regular 5W-30 engine oil. Would I encounter any problems if I use synthetic 5W-30 such as Mobil 1? Or should I just continue with using the regular oil? Thanks for suggestions.
  • ckrllckrll Member Posts: 19
    Bob,

    When you write:

    "i'm afraid that after anyone runs the supersyn mobil oil for a period of time will show higher levels of wear."

    I just don't buy your opinion.

    Because, when I read Mobil:

    "The most significant improvement in the Mobil 1 formula is the SuperSyn™ anti-wear system. This proprietary additive system has astounding protective properties. Instead of breaking down during extreme high-stress, high-temperature conditions, the SuperSyn™ anti-wear system actually excels under these conditions."

    I note that they are selling the super syn as an improved antiwear formulation -- they say that it is the best Mobil1 ever. Sure, there is a lot of BS and exageration in marketing materials, but if their product were actually worse than previous formulations, as you opine, then they would have to be total fools to sell it as an improved version.

    What I think may be true is that Mobil is on to a way to increase anti-wear protection that doesn't involve the barrier lube agents you "test" for. If super syn is indeed "proprietary", that means, in and of itself, that it is different from the standard barrier lube agents.

    Until I have data otherwise, I'll tend to believe their claims over someone who tests oils as a hobby and is a competitor of Mobil.

    John
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I'm surte they have had time to test the oil at 200K. They have been working on this formula for 4 years now. They tested the 95 verson (Improved) and the 98 verson (TriSyn) to 200K. They just have not published the documentation yet. Give them another 6 months.

    Al
  • bobistheoilguybobistheoilguy Member Posts: 270
    John, I totally understand your skeptism and I'm sure your not alone in your thinking as well.

    Myself though, I believe in plain basic pure mechanics. Although this is not a valid test procedure as everyone knows, it does use plain mechanics. one force against another, heat, friction and lubrication. I have used this to compare many oils and you nor anyone else can tell me that their secret ingrediant is so good that it can't be seen by a simple mechanical device like this. The way I see it, the basic law of "for every action there is an equal and oposite reaction" is in effect here. When oil is squeezed in between two surfaces and it has a place to flow, you will see a reaction of the oil moving away from those two surfaces. I still maintain that if it is a 10w30 it will flow like a 10w30 mineral or synth , trisynth or supersyn, all the same and then you're left with what? ADDITIVES. And if this new technological additive they have cannot withstand this little test which btw is less than -extreme high-stress, high-temperature - but yet their older trisynth oil could resist this little machine. What is an engine... a basic machine that hasn't change in basic mechanics in many years. Just as this timken machine, it hasn't changed and the only thing that has is their new and improved formula that shows no promise in comparisions to their previous oils compared to barrier additives. I personally feel they are just getting a jump on the market when all the other oil companies have to reduce their antiwear additives come next years new api upgrade and this is just one way to get a head start by campaining new antiwear protection.

    Time will tell as we all know.

    Now this is just my personal opinion and nothing more.
  • brennekebrenneke Member Posts: 43
    I think it is important to recognise that the quality of the base stock in an oil is important and a good engine oil is not just made with a good additive package as some would have us believe.

    Schaeffer is probably one of the best examples of this. If the additive package was the only thing that mattered, would they incur the extra expense of a paraffinic base oil with a healthy dose of PAO? Could they not achieve the same level of performance by using the same moly-fortified additive package in a cheap base stock that contained no PAO? How about using just the paraffinic base stock with little or no synthetic? It is ironic that some consider synthetic base stocks to be unnecessary and too expensive but then go on to say that their blend contains more PAO (28%) than their competitors and that it is a good thing.

    Synthetic oils have shown their superiority in gear lubrication as well - in this area it is clear that additive packages alone do not cut it. I recently spoke with an engineer from one of the world's largest gearbox manufacturers to ask for some specs. on a gearbox that we were using in a machine design - his first question to me was "are you using conventional or synthetic lubricating oil?" Yes, they had a complete different set of specs. for the same gearbox when synthetic was used. (higher allowable torque, greater efficiency)

    In our area in Canada, there is a large logging industry. In logging trucks that spend most of their time off-road in extremely mountainous terrain, there is only one general type of gear lube used in their differentials, synthetic. (factory fill)

    Why would all these truck manufacturers bother to spend all this extra money on synthetic gear lube if a beefed-up conventional would do just as well - hell, Schaffers might even have a gear lube that blows away any synthetic in a Timken test!
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Synthetic hypoid truly is an excellent utilization of synthetic lubrication. I have had just enough experience with it to realize that petro-based hypoid is far less heavy duty, and thus far less effective.
  • bobistheoilguybobistheoilguy Member Posts: 270
    and I have not seen where anyone said that a good oil is one with just a good additive package. I have many times indicated myself that additives in conjunction of a good base oil makes a good oil.


    In my comments above(about mobil), it is just that a good base oil is very important but you can have a good base oil that is weak in wear protection due to a week additive package as that is like kicking the horse and pulling back on the riens at the same time. Of course the opposite could exist with a higher level of barrier lube but a poor base oil stock.


     My point is an oil needs to have a good balance of both and not just one thing.


     As for having to have a dose of pao base stock to be good, I had demonstrated with acid in the base oil

    ( http://bobistheoilguy.com/videos.html ) that even the standard schaeffers mineral oil withstood very comparably with the one having the pao mix, therefore even a good mineral base oil can hold up as well.


     The main difference between a mineral and a synth oil to the consumer is that a synth can withstand heat and stress longer and have a better than avg low temp pumpability than a mineral base. Does that mean it wont shear as easily? No, Does that mean it lubricates better? I don't think so, they pump the same, they flow

    the same,they squeeze out the same. It is an oil, it does what any oil does, just lasts a little longer for extended oil drains. Of course I'm comparing good quality severly hydrofinished mineral based oil against a synth because we all know that there is so many different types of mineral oils and a lot don't stand up comparably as there is some that will.


     I just think the lame thinking of it's a synth or if it's a major brand name it can't be bad is just as wrong as all oils are the same.

  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    So what is a good brand name, off the shelf, synthetic? I'm not concerned with schaeffers, redline, etc. because you can't get it everywhere.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
  • gslevegsleve Member Posts: 183
  • gslevegsleve Member Posts: 183
    perhaps ahead of time so you'll alwasys have some on hand it may not be that difficult once you find a supplier you trust and like and stick with them thats if you so choose use any of the aforementioned oil's
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    use mobil 1, but according to Bob, the new Mobil 1 is no good. So my question is, which brand name, off the shelf oil IS good?
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I know we had this discussion before but...


    The way I see it, the basic law of "for every action there is an equal and oposite reaction" is in effect here. When oil is squeezed in between two surfaces and it has a place to flow, you will see a reaction of the oil moving away from those two surfaces. I still maintain that if it is a 10w30 it will flow like a 10w30 mineral or synth , trisynth or supersyn


    Flow properties of both equal viscosities of mineral and syn oil are the same. But there is a difference in lubricating properties between the two when boundary conditions are present. Syn lubricates better than conventional oil under these conditions. I have seen friction coefficients between the two. I am looking to resurect them. Syn has a lower coefficient of friction during zero hydronamic conditions. This is due to the polar nature of the syn molecule. I recall that Esters are a little better than PAO's in this catagory. Synestic is an Ester. Check out the referenced document and scroll down to the areas where they give some bar graphs of a "4 Ball Test" and a "Bearing Ring Test" They compared ISO 32 and 68 oils of equal additive packages. One is the syn (Synesstic 32) and the other is a conventional oil (68). You will note that in both these tests, the 32 Synesstic gave the same wear results as the 68 (thicker) conventional oil. Just for info the 32 and 68 oils get their designation from being a 32 and 64 cSt viscosity at 40C. These tests were run at about 160F so basically the 32 is a 10cST oil and the 68 is a 15 cST oil at the test temp of the tests (160F)


    http://www.exxon.com/exxon_lubes/tigerbytes/documents/brochures/bro0026.htm


    This reinforces what brennele stated above. It also agrees with practice in industrial lubrication applications: In many (not all) cases a synthetic oil of one lower ISO classification than the mineral oil can be used. Again, this is common practice.

  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    Am I getting the wrong drift here. Almost everyone agrees that synthetics are superior oils. However, for most usual applications the dino campers say that syns will perform no better than a good dino. The syns are in basic disagreement as they sleep better at night knowing that they get better protection. The dinos say the added expense isn't justified for protection that, in all probability, you'll never use. On another board, someone said it was like a guy living on top of a mountain buying flood insurance for his home. Well, if he slept better, it was worth it to him.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I think you're zeroing in on it. I also think Bob is getting whooped on and doesn't deserve the abuse. My interpretation of Bob's position is that a high quality non-synthetic, or petroleum based, even hydro stomped if you will, oil that has an excellent additive chemistry package can do everything that ought to be done. Now, be sure that the additive package has adequate barrier protection chemistry, and you are set.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I certainly am not. I have learned from Bob and others on this board. In fact even though many of us disagree with others' viewpoints or methods/products. We all on here have one thing in common. That is we all look at a dipstick once in a while and actually take an interest in how our oil is doing. This leads us to speculate and question what is the best or most cost effective way we can maintain our cars.
    When you think of it- how many people have this level of interest? One in a hundred-one in a thousand??

    I guess sometimes we (me included) get defensive of our opinions. Just human nature. People don't want to hear that their ideas or methods may be "wrong."
    Al
  • ckrllckrll Member Posts: 19
    We should not confuse style with substance. I disagree that Bob is getting whooped on. Indeed, who is doing the whooping, the damning with, at best, faint praise of all competitors' products; and, at worse, making judgments that using those products may be harmful?

    When Bob does his test, and from that infers that the new Mobil 1 formulation is not as good as the previous; and when he says "i'm afraid that after anyone runs the supersyn mobil oil for a period of time will show higher levels of wear" he is making an implicit recommendation with regard to the use of that product.

    Bottom line -- it's fair for people to probe the credibility of his pronouncements.

    John
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Certainly those are points well taken.

    I see Bob's testimony as the "fly in the ointment" that the true believers in synthetic don't like. Bob suggests that today's ill-defined category of lubricants, debatably synthetic, are not the end-all of engine salvation that the zealots proclaim. I vaguely remember from many years back that the so-called Timpken bearing machine was used on TV to demonstrate the high desirability of some product. I don't believe that "barrier protection" was a term used back then. But long before any of that, Shakespeare popularized the phrase, "Much Ado About Nothing." >;^]
  • ckrllckrll Member Posts: 19
    Fleetwood, you are right, it is

    Much Ado About Nothing,

    and almost theological at times, these oily questions.

    Now, as the bard said in As You Like It

    O Sir, we quarrel in print, by the book, as you have books for good manners. I will name you the degrees. The first, the Retort Courteous; the second, the Quip Modest; the third, the Reply Churlish; the fourth, the Reproof Valiant; the fifth, the Countercheck Quarrelsome; the sixth, the Lie with Circumstance; the seventh, the Lie Direct.

    John
  • jeffmust2jeffmust2 Member Posts: 811
    eom
  • brennekebrenneke Member Posts: 43
    A quote from you:

    "As for having to have a dose of pao base stock to be good, I had demonstrated with acid in the base oil (http://bobistheoilguy.com/videos.html ) that even the standard schaeffers mineral oil withstood very comparably with the one having the pao mix, therefore even a good mineral base oil can hold up as well.

    I guess it's time to submit your test data (especially from the Bobacid test) to Schaeffers to let them know that they don't really need the PAO in their mix - the formulators are going to really be pissed when you make them look so bad! But hey, just think of the nice fat bonus cheque that you will be entitled to!
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    I have a new GMC Envoy which is supposed to use 5W-30 according to the manual and also written on the oil filler cap. However, most of the dealers in this area (Dallas) use 10W-30 in spite of that (I found this out in hindsight after a recent oil change when I noticed they used 10W-30). For my next oil change with Mobil 1, should I go back to the 5W-30 that the manual recommends, or should I use 10W-30 Mobil 1 for the Dallas area, where winters are typically not too bad? Or should I use 10W-30 in summer, and 5W-30 in winter? Doesn't 5W-30 give better mpg? Thanks for any comments.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    The 5W and 10W will have the same viscosity at operating temps. -30 wt. At at ambient conditions the 5W will be a little thinner. So you should get slightly better protection when the car is warming up. If you take many short trips you will get a little worse gas milage (presumably) and a little better protection (presumably). You really only need the 5W in colder conditions. I have used the 10W in -15 F mornings with no problems. I use Mobil 1 10W-30 in 6 vehicles all the time here in Pa.
  • ocelot1ocelot1 Member Posts: 101
    all the dealers use 10w-30 too. and in the winter we get down to at least 17F.I think they get better prices on 10w-30 in the bulk,I might go as far to say there is a glut of this viscosty on the open market.I'll use 10w-30 in the summer months and 0w-30 in the winter months.I have about 7 gallons of the 0w-30 to use up.I used to run all year long but the guys on this board have convinced me to use 10w-30 for Higher stess applications,which I can run into in the summer.Tony
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Prithee well, Nuncle!
    Sir Francis Bacon, no doubt...
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Do you think those dealers would honor your warranty if you had the oil changed elsewhere with 10W30 but the manual says 5W30. Probably not? Yet they choose to put it in at the dealer, why, cheap, good deal,. and do not wish to stock bulk multi viscosity.
  • ckrllckrll Member Posts: 19
    armtdm makes a good point about the dealers putting in 10w-30 when the manufacturer calls for 5w-30.

    In a slightly different case, I drive a base Acura RSX, which Acura states should use 5w-20, with 5w-30 being ok only in an pinch, and then you should go back to 5w-20 at the next oil change. Yet both of the Acura dealers in the part of NC that I live offer only 5w-30.

    So much for that recommendation.

    And over on the Honda newsgroup, it was pointed out that the Honda Japan online owner's manual recommends either 0w-20, 5w-30, 10w-30, or 5w-40 for the Japanese version of the RSX (same engine), still called the Integra over there.

    It's all politics, and I just can't believe that any warranty would be voided if any "reasonable" viscosity range was used.

    John
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    For anyone to suggest that any synthetic isn't superior to any dino is ridiculous. I think the only question is here is how much better is it.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    I changed to AMSOIL synthetic ATF and saw that clutch engagement lockup was occuring at a too low RPM(1500 instead of the regular 1900 RPM).
    My car generates the better part of torque at higher RPM (>2000).
    What this translated to me was:
    Car groaning when starting from a dead stop and a cold engine.
    usually my car loves to rev, not so after using AMSOIL ATF.
    I am changing back to regular DexronIII.

    So in my case, synthetic did not work.

    Although I used AMSOIL motor oil 5w-30 and liked it. Changed at 10,000 miles.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    I have a couple quarts of left-over Mobil 1 trisynth. Can I mix this with the new Mobil 1 supersyn when I do my next oil change? Can there be any adverse consequences? Any help will be appreciated!

    Also, is there a way to buy the old trisynth oil? I checked a few stores and all seem to carry the new oil only.

    Thanks.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    What about one of the other shockproof fluids that may have as much slippage?

    I have used the Amsoil ATF in about 5 cars so far all different makes with no issues like you described as yet. Perhasp a 8 oz additive would solve your problem in lieu of a complete change. Lubeguard, Motorcraft makes one etc. friction modifiers
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    If I can do 3-4K mile oil and filter change for less than $7 (using SL Chevron Supreme 5W-30 and Walmart -Champion- Supertech filter) and get over troublefree 200,000 miles from my engine, then I am not sure that anything is superior to that. I do recognize that using extended oil drain intervals and synthetic oil would be just as cost efficient and much less work in the long term and may very well achieve the same troublefree 200,000 miles from my engine.

    The thing is I am not 100% sure about the extended oil drain intervals. I am just about 99% sure that my method will work and 20 minutes is not very long to change my own oil and I sleep very well knowing I am good to go. I do believe that using the synthetic every 3-4K would be superior and the cost on an annual basis is certainly not cost prohibitive, but what would I gain? I think part depends on what you're driving and how you drive. My Accord 4 banger rarely gets over 4500 RPM, is garage kept in a temperate climate, and I don't believe the synthetic offers anything to ME that the dino can't handle.

    If I had the Acura RSX 6 speed that I would like to drive and was driving the piss out of it getting all 200 horses cranking, then I would be looking at synthetic - but I still think I would be changing my oil and filter every 5K at most.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Everyone on this site--me included--is more anal-retentative about oil than 99.995% of the population, many of whome are abusing the crap out of their engines. Synthetic has a wider temperature range and MAY allow for extended changes, but doing regular changes with a good brand dino oil and good quality (not Fram) but non-premium filter will probably assure that the engine will last for 200K. The problem, by then, may not be with the engine, but with the various other components that make up a car.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    no offense, but you need to go back and read some previous posts. It's not as simple as you make it seem, and you seem unwilling to accept that.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    I am sure this was discussed but couldn't find anything in the last 200 posts. What do you guys think - yes/no? Thanks!
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    then again, I've never laid out the bucks for synthetic oil of any kind.
  • malachy72malachy72 Member Posts: 325
    have struck me as being true as when a V.P. who was my boss said, "You know, we manage the hell out of the things we understand around here, and the things we don't, we ignore." He was speaking of some Senior management types who saw problems where none really existed. I try to remember that every day. I think it applies here.
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    Synthetic oils handle extremes better than petroleums do, but the additives play a big part in the total picture too.I agree that me paying my normal $6-7 oil change every 3k will probably last as well as someone elses $25 change every 10 k. My oil changes will cost less and especially now that the SL rating exists will be a very close call on the quality difference of the total oil package. If I lived in very extreme cold/hot synthetics may have more merit, but for most of us, it is just ADDED insurance. I am NOT saying that synthetics are not better, just that they don't play by the same rules as the petroleums do,,,,If I had to change every 10k and did not have the choice to change every 3k for example...synth would win hands down, but for many of us, synth just isn't worth it.
    At some point, maybe grade "SP" or something, synthetic may be standard grade by that point anyway, from what I understand, upcoming vehicles will be requiring even thinner oils (like 5w-10 instead of 5w-20...) than current ones do anyhow, probably require some new technology synthetics by then anyway--super-duper-syn????
    sorry bout that, just got started and couldn't quit...
    anyway
    May all of our vehicles last long enough for us to actually want them to kick over huh?
    see y'all
    Rando
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Normally I would say no problem and that is likely true. I would be leary though of going with extended drain intervals with the mix. The reason is that the additive package is probably different, especially in the area of wear inhibitors. Wear inhibitors are tricky in that they can react forming many compounds depending on the pressures and temperatures. The results are not always predictable. I doubt there would be any problems with normal drain intervals of 7500 miles. No one hercan say for certain as we are not privy to Mobil's wear packages. The tri-syn was not your basic ZDDP and the new stuff -who knows??

    you could call Mobil 1's technical service
    #1-800-662-4525.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Were I in your oil changing situation, I would certainly mix those synthetics together and use them in my normal way, just as if all quarts were the same product. You know they both mix with petroleum oils. Mobil could not take the heat for a product that could not be mixed with its predecessor. If that wasn't true, how would you ever switch from old to new?
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    It is that simple. Synthetics are superior to dinos in every way. I've read the posts in this forum, and I've also read the independant lab reports on the web, and I think I'll go with the lab reports. Unfortunately, even the lab reports don't explain how much better syns are than dinos. Some aren't comfortable with the extended intervals, and therefore, they can't justify the price. Me, I'd put my engine, with its 10K syn change intervals up against anyone's engine in terms of longevity, that's how comfortable I am with it. If you don't feel comfortable going that long between changes, don't. I just think it's a waste of money, and good oil, to change syn sooner than 10K.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yeah I tend to agree with Bottgers! First of all you have to admit the new SL classification sets a very high bar indeed! Just SL conventional oil has been tested in excess of 12,000 miles! I have been using Mobil One 0-5-10W-30 with 15,000 mile change intervals! I have gone a combined total of over 550k miles! Also, if you operate your vehicle in high speed high temperature high load conditions, Synthetic oil has great resistence to thermal breakdown and ash formation or sludging!
  • pjksrpjksr Member Posts: 111
    If you have an Ames store near you, check there...was in one in CT, and all they had was the old Tri-Syn...also saw some Tri-Syn at Sam's Club.
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