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Jason
www.geyer.org/BMW_BUICK.pdf
In essence, I believe that substantially all of it's product line is very new and subject to the metrics outlined in the article.
I will admit, my 2002 330i has never been to the shop for anything but maintenance; it's a fine machine.
Here, here. Zero, zip, nada, nothing, nyet...
Best Regards,
Shipo
-Paul
I had BMW "fix" this issue and for about a week my parking brake would grab after pulling it up a good 2 to 3 inches.
Now the brake won't go up more than an inch or two and it simply doesn't catch at all.
Argh...
Somehow, my wife failed to see the humor in her "new" BMW breaking down on the first day. I personally thought it was hilarious.. "I told you it wouldn't be like owning a Honda".
regards,
kyfdx
P.S.: I love the car.... I wish I got to drive it every day.
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At least the car didn't suffer a catastrophic failure on the road, off the dealers lot, causing a car crash. (Hint: It was a Japanese top rated car from the biggest Japan, Inc. automaker)
Prior to my first BMW, I drove a VW Passat GLX. That car had an easy half a dozen trips to the dealership during its warranty period. Once the warranty was out, it only had one other unusual issue, however, by then the car had over 80K miles on it. Not too bad to my way of reckoning, especially when I considered the car to be nearly perfect in every other way for my needs.
I guess another way of asking the question is this:
If the next time you are car shopping and you decide that the then available 3-Series fits your requirements better than every other car on the market, except that is, for the potential of a couple of extra trips to the dealership, would you really buy the car from the competitor?
Best Regards,
Shipo
brave1heart wrote:
>You really have to wonder when Buick ends up having better quality than BMW. And an
>8-year-old Lexus has fewer problems than a brand new 7-series!!
Yeah... you have to wonder what's happened in Munich.
Don't forget that reliability is only half of the equation. The other is the satisfaction the car provides when it's trouble-free. In that arena, BMW has it all over Buick. (However, an eight-year-old Lexus LS400 is probably more satisfying than a one-year-old 745i with iDrive!)
>FWIW, the 3-series is one of the few European models that CR still recommends.
Actually, they wrote that reliability of the 3-series improved enough for them to finally be able to recommend it. But as for the larger point of that sentence, I don't have the magazine with me right now in order to list all of the European cars they recommend. I do remember that, as you wrote, the 3-series is the only Bimmer they recommend, and that the only VW they recommend is the Passat with the V6, and that they don't recommend any Benzes. (I also remember this curious finding: the Audi A4 with the 1.8L turbo engine is more reliable than any VW with that engine.)
Not in my way of thinking. I put my money where my mouth is, and I new 745 would be next in my garage.
With all due respect, if you don't have a 745i in your garage now, you haven't put your money where your mouth is yet.
Best Regards,
Shipo
2002 330i. 24,000 miles. Been to the dealer exactly twice. Once for a broken CD changer, fixed under warranty. Once for scheduled maintenance where they also fixed the 2nd to 1st clunk in the transmission software and an exterior rubber molding issue. Other than that...flawless. And there is no way to describe the smile it puts on my face each and every morning.
The point is I'm not going to say I like the 745 over the LS430, only if you visit my house you'll find an LS430 in the garage. Similiarly I'm not going to say I like the 330 over the G35, and if you come over to my house you'll find a G35 in the garage.
There is an extended maintenance contract available from BMW. Covers everything the current "free" maintenance does. MSRP on that is $995 to go from 4/50 to 6/100. You can buy that from any BMW dealer at any time before your current agreement expires.
regards,
kyfdx
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At the most basic level, these are only as good as the company issuing them and the reinsurance company covering the insurance company. If the company isn't strong or can't control their claims, you're sunk.
And the policies have to be read very carefully. How to you file claims? Get reimbursed? Who can you see? What kind of parts can you use? What if you have a dispute with the company? What are the deductibles? What components ARE and are NOT covered?
I am leaning toward ordering a car with just the Sport Package but there are none available locally to try. I see in the archives that most of the experiences with the sport package have been positive. I'm worried about 45 series tires (ride and tread wear)and would appreciate any comments you have about the ride and, also, how well you like the seats.
BTW, I thought the ride and tread wear were fine with the 50 series tires on the Z3 and, having lived with the Z3 through seven Illinois winters, I understand the winter tire issues.
The other problem is "what I hear on the phone, may not be what I get" and it doesn't seem I can find out until I decide to actually buy the warranty from the specific dealer and they finally whip out the contract. Any one know about "Portfolio" or "Pinnacle from National Auto Care Corp" as 3rd party warranty providers?
Thanks in advance for any advice - this is my first post.
Don't buy anything unless and until you can study the actual written contract!
beemer: I would put that $2300-2600 in a separate account, and use it to pay for any repairs. Don't use it for maintenance costs, just what would be covered under a warranty. Once you have used it up (and I'm not sure you will), consider selling the car. If it costs any more than that to repair over the next 3 years, you need a different car. I think you'll come out ahead in the long run.
regards,
kyfdx
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1) Sport seats
2) 17" tires and rims
3) Sport suspension
1) If you have to have these, you have to get the sport package.. I recommend them, but for some, the extra bolstering bothers them. Try it out.
2) Very important for aesthetics, and provides probably 60% of the handling improvements in the sport package. You can add this cheaply yourself, w/o sport pkg. I recently saw brand new take-offs wheels and tires for $1000 asking, and the tires alone are worth $700.
3) Provides the other 40% of the handling improvements. This is just gravy. Not that important for 95% of drivers.
I personally like all those extra options like premium pkg, xenons, cold weather package, but if those aren't important to you, and you have to have the sport seats, then I would order.
BUT, you have to try out the seats first. I wouldn't pass on the sport package, without knowing for sure. Take a trip some Saturday to another dealer that has one in stock.
regards,
kyfdx
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>1) If you have to have these, you have to get
>the sport package.. I recommend them, but for
>some, the extra bolstering bothers them. Try it
>out.
Actually, dealers can order the sport seats as a separate option on customer-ordered cars. I just ordered a 325i with Sport Seats but not the Sport Pkg. It cost $550 (mine will be power since I am also getting the Premium Pkg). This was a good deal for me since I liked the seats but was not wild about the wide, hi-perf tires for my usage.
My advice is to always ask when making a service appointment.
Thanks.
If I had to do it over again, I'd wait for the xi to incorporate the new x-drive, which is more flexible in routing power to wheels. The xi's have a 62/38 rear/front torque split. I would have liked it to vary, like my Jeep Grand Cherokee. But other than that, it's been very stable in the snow and hills we have around here.
-Paul
Also, I read on a long thread on this or other board bout someone losing a low-profile rear tire due to low pressure. The dealer inflated the rear Michelin Pilots 255/35 ZR18s at 27 psi (below the range of 38min-46max). I inflated them to 40 psi (cold temp of course). The fronts 235/40 ZR18s were at 31 (below the range of 32min-39max). I inflated them to 34. I normally (95%)drive by myself, with an ocassional ride (5%) with my 11 year old son. Any recommendations on tire inflation pressure practices? Guess I wanted a bigger cookie jar.
The manual claims something which I attempted to follow - 1200 miles, 5k. My dealership and my salesguy said, "Do what you like it's fine." My car's a lease so I didn't stick perfectly to the 1200/5k regimen - NMP after 45k miles.
Any recommendations on tire inflation pressure practices? Guess I wanted a bigger cookie jar.
I try to follow what the door sticker and manual suggests for 18s. Of course I only got 14k out of my rear tires with mostly freeway driving.
Have fun.
What would 100 mph have to do with anything? If 100 mph is under 4500 rpm, wouldn't you be in fine shape as the engine's still turning the same way as if you were doing 45mph in second.
Just a guess here but that's probably for the diff, axles, tranny, etc.