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What you and the dealer settle on at any given moment is what the real market price is at that place in that time. I use the published invoice figures from Kelley or Edmunds, and yes, they have to include destination charges, since that is part of dealer cost. From there, it is between me and the dealer, and I have never walked away worried I have left money on the table. There are lots of ways to determine what is a fair retail price for any given car in any given market...if you think you can use CU's number to get to that place, then by all means, do so...but I can guarantee you every dealer will argue they are paying more for the car than CU says they are. I don't know who is right, but I do know what is a fair price in my market right now for a Honda Civic. Can't speak for your market...
Here's how they wrote it up:
List Price - $18150
Trade - $6000 (note, I've never been offered more than $3900 at any of 6 other dealers)
Tax and fees - $706.75
Out the door @ $12856.75...OR
The way I am trying to look at it, my trade was worth at very most $4000 (that's also what I owe on it).
So I got the car for $16150, out the door for $16856.75.
Is this good? Anyone get a better deal than that?
MARK RECHTIN
Automotive News
LOS ANGELES-- After a 15-year absence, American Honda Motor Co. Inc. is considering a return to the $1 billion-a-year business of building performance aftermarket accessories.
Producing Honda-brand aftermarket items would enhance the automaker's credibility with young tuners, an important audience of image builders captured in this summer's smash movie about street racing, The Fast and the Furious.
The move also could lure many Honda owners who have been hesitant to modify their vehicles because of warranty concerns.
http://www.autonews.com/html/main/stories0709/honda709.htm
Interesting article though.
Anyway I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with CD's not playing all their tracks.
I have the single CD unit it plays fine but after the 8th song it goes back to track 1, even though there are 12 songs on the CD. It doesn't do it on all cd's just certian ones.
Any help is much appreciated and thanks again for helping me make a great choice! jcc
Thanks for any feedback.
I am really mad about this car because it has so many recall and problems. My car has rattle noise like many of you post in here, noise from both front doors while driving on high way, suck in water from air intake during a normal rain, paint pealing from right front door, tires make so much noise while making turn at any corner on the street for 5mph, interior fading, gas gauge problem, rpm change every times I stop for traffic light, morning time is the worst because rpm goes up to 1500, losing power after 15000 miles, train mission won't shift until I hit up to 3000 rpm, and when I put in gear it will take about 2 second for it kick in. Car also shaking when turn on A/C. I think all civic 2001 are lemon car. (:<)
http://www.cars.com/carsapp/national/?srv=parser&act=display&tf=/features/truthabout/gas/howtosave1.tmpl
Thanks
hvtec2000 - How did you determine it was the air intake causing the noise? Is there a remedy?
Did you check into anything to reduce the wind noise from the driver's & passenger's doors?
Did you mention any of your problems to your dealer?
Strong68 - I believe the owner's manual for an LX says to change the oil at 5,000 or 10,000 mile intervals depending on usage.
Mine was made in Canada and I'm very curious as to whether some of the reported problems may have to do with where the cars were assembled.
Best car I ever bought !! I challenge anyone on this thread to come up with a better 2001 choice, obviously staying in the price range !!
NewCiv
Keep it for atleast 5000 miles. Honda recommends 10,000 miles or 12 months for the oil changes. Eventhough I would not advise you to wait that longer, adopt 5 months - 5000 miles cycle which is more than reasonable....
First oil chnage: Read FAQ on Honda site, Honda wanrs to keep first oil for the recommended duration as it is special for engines initial NON-Regular wear patterns.......
hvtec2000: The reason your tires squeal in turns is that they simply are cheap low performance tires (s-rated). There are not too many automakers left who have stooped so low as to put 185/70 14 sized tires on their cars.
newciv: OK I'm up to the challenge: I think the Protege ES excels in every way except fuel economy and maybe shifter quality. Yes you lose some $ on resale, but you start off with a heavy discount. Both have 5 star crash rating. The Civic LX would be competitive if only you could get ABS and maybe an upgraded wheel/tire package (not just throw on a 14" alloy onto the same tire as the dealer will offer to do at whatever price they feel like charging).
I hate visiting these dealers and would love to narrow down the search.
Plume
Thanks
Plume
And regarding Mazda, nice cars but their resale is nonexistent. I see '00 626's with a V6 going for $10-12K. A similar '00 Accord would got for what, 18-20K?. Keep a car forever and it doesn't matter but even a huge discount up front for Mazda isn't going to negate the resale difference.
Sure, the Civic has its own "problems" when it comes to braking and stopping. One is the attribute of the smaller contact patch (with the stock tires). But, that really has nothing to do with the ABS itself.
My question is what have some of you paid for a 2001 LX 5spd? Edmunds list the TMV at $14123, but Carsdirect list their price at approx. $14400. I've also been keeping up on this forum and have heard of other deals below $14k. Have many of you been getting around the Edmund's TMV for this car?
Thanks in advance for your input!
laurakat: Make sure you drive a Hyundai Elantra before deciding. Although the Hyundai carries many negative connotations, it is remarkably competitive. Build quality is as good as a Civic, it is quieter, has a better ride, more power and many items not found on the Civic like: break-away mirrors (heated too). Cost is thousands less than a Civic (which should make you forget about the resale value) and the best feature is the 5yr/60mo b to b warranty. As a Honda fan, I have to admit that from initial driving impressions the Elantra is a better car than the new Civic.
Carsdirect rarely has the lowest prices around these days, though again, remember the fundamental rule: ALL PRICING IS LOCAL. There is no such thing as a TMV that can be applied nationwide, as Edmunds tries to do...not to mention the market changes from one week to the next, if not daily.
mdriver: Actually, the Elantra is next on my list to test drive. I have to admit, I did have some negative connotations against Hyundai. My wife had a '90 Excel, which was a piece of sh** compared to my '90 civic. However, I've been impressed with the reviews the new Elantra has received. Also, I've been following the civic vs. elantra forum and have heard many convincing arguments.
jrct9454: It must be the area. I live in the Twin Cities metro area of MN. I've only checked out one dealer so far, but the civics seem to fly off the lot at a fairly good pace. I quess they are in greater demand here. Any input from other Twin Cities residents on what they paid?
Thanks.
http://www.highwaysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/summary_small.htm
It shows how much safety engineering went into the Elantra...... NONE ! Piss-poor structure, piss-poor occupant kinematics..... shall I continue ?
Oh, and by the way, look at what position the 2001 Civic resides.... Sure am glad I'm driving a Civic !!
NewCiv
Back in '98 I had a job which took me to Korea at the client's Hyundai Sonata line. Part of our deliverables was QA/QE and we were delighted that their job 1 was low-price before engineering (our project would be accepted in a 2-wk schedule and we could come home). One TGIF after 5 (and drinks), our be-friended took us to a research lab. There on the floor was a car in pieces and we asked why... "how you say, reverse-engineering" said the engineer - it was an Accord.
Not quite done he drove us back to our hotel in the company XG300 (here) - until it overheated. Oh, yes, the leather/wood and cd-changer was nice.
If people stop buying Elantras until the saftey problems are fixed, so much the better... a little extra incentive to Hyundai to get it done.
If you don't mind the trouble of selling the existing car yourself, you can usually get a better price.
Good luck.
I'm not a Hyundai fan in general, but the Elantra is very impressive in areas that used to be dominated by the Civic, namely: ride, refinement and build quality. Why doesn't Honda offer anything more than the 3yr/36k warranty? Don't tell me that you don't need it on a Honda. Toyota offers a 5yr/60k warranty on its powertrain, but no one would argue that their engines are so unreliable that you need such extended coverage.
The Elantra airbag failed to fully deploy, that could be fatal.
There is a reason for the Toyota extended warranty.
(no one?) I'm arguing my dad's Toyota Tacoma V-6 had a bad head gasket at 48k miles. My dad was going to pay for it all ($1,200) but my sibling wrote a letter to Toyota and got fully refunded.
There is a TSB on NHTSA web site
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy.cfm
type in Toyota Truck, Tacoma, 1995
Finally I'm saving up for the 2002 Civic LX sedan for my growing family.
I also do not think the $100 over invoice will stand if the trade is removed.
I will let you all know what happens because I will be making a decision within the next week.