Sorry Joe, you kinda lost me with the explanation of LSD. Under normal condition for a FWD with no LSD, isn't power transmitted equally to BOTH front wheels?
Equally ?...yes...only under perfect conditions. There is still only 1 main drive wheel. However, under normal conditions torque is shared between the two drive wheels. It's when slip of the drive wheel w/o LSD that the two (LSD and non LSD) become apparently different. Non LSD will simply spin the main drive wheel...with no traction to the other (which is what I meant by the two wheels not sharing power equally). The opposite is true with LSD. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Canadiancl: How about this for an example of the three: If you take a GXE with no traction control, an SE AE with LSD but no traction control and a GLE with traction control out to a parking lot with lots of snow on it and floored all three one front wheel on the GXE would spin (the other front tire would do nothing), both front wheels on the SE would spin (the LSD would transfer some power to the second wheel when it sensed the slippage), and neither wheel on the GLE would spin (or at least not much, the traction control should control the spin).
someone please helpme. i hav a 2000 max se, loaded to the hilt.
the subwoofer has been rattling lately. i recently opened the trunk, and something looked different.. i could have sworn that the subwoofer was enclosed in sime sort of sound-proofing box, but its not their anymore!! am i going nuts, or did someone steal the thing (probably the dealer mechanics). i went to the dealer, and they are claiming ignorance (they say it never existed, and i am crazy). i may be dreaming, but i really thought something was there before (limited truk space in the rear) - someone please help - thanx
I have a 2001 Maxima GLE with a little problem. It seems that when I open the door locks with either the key less entry or the key, the door locks automatically lock when I lift the door handle to open the door. This happens from both inside the passenger compartment or outside. I have already locked my keys in the car twice. Luckily, I have carried the extra set of keys with me. Did anyone else have this problem? If so, can you tell me what the dealer did to correct the problem?
That's a problem most common to the Quests. Usually it's just a sort of start over type of cure...meaning the brain is simply reset, and the key fobs are then reprogrammed. In rare cases the keyless entry/alarm brain has to be replaced but not usually. As of yet, we're not sure what causes this to happen. Also....you're not supposed to be able to lock the doors with the key in the ignition while the door(s) is/are open, but that too has been symptom of the problem. Some even find that the alarm activates when the door is opened, even though you use the key fob to unlock it. I know nobody wants to hear it but...it has to go back to the dealer to be reset, or replaced. Warranty does, of course, cover it.
I Just thought that I would post that after about 8 weeks of researching I bought a 2001 black/Black leather Max SE 5 speed loaded for under invoice ($24000) in Atlanta. I LOVE THE CAR...
I got some advice on this message board and would like to thank those that answers my questions. By the way, I bought it at Troncalli Nissan in Decatur GA.
Damn...You nearly stole that car !! Best of luck with it. And...with Black on Black....I'd look into some good window tinting for that hot southern sun !
Nissan has a 24 page TSB on rattles and it includes rattles from the rear deck and trunk area. Take it to the dealer and have them apply the "rattle fixes" for you
Although 17mpg sounds way too low, you'll find it'll get much better as the engine breaks in more. I drive very little around town but I'm now getting between 26 and 27 on the highway with a 2k 5 spd SE.
I've got a new Maxima rental right now-it's really a great drive. Two things really botrher me,though. The dark tinted band on the windshield seems really low-it obstructs my vision. Also,I want the steering wheel to tilt higher. I am only 6feet tall. Do these things bother others? Other than these issues,I am really impressed with the car.
Did you try to lower your seat position? It seems doing that would solve both the obscuring band and the tilt wheel interference problems. (Use the joystick on the left of your seat for its position adjustment.)
Just had the rear brakes changed on my Maxima which has only 40,000 miles on it. My experience with other vehicles says this is not normal- my other vehicles will go for 80-100,000 miles on the rear brakes. What is the composition on these brake linings. I have done brake jobs on all of my cars so I have alot of experience, I usually use metallic linings. I wanted the dealer to check out the brake cylinder/caliper to see if something has seized up which was not a problem per the dealer/service center.
I have a 2000 GLE with 17500 miles and have heard the same whine since the car had about 4000 miles on it. There does not seem to be any drivability problem but at times it can be quite annoying. The noise occurs while in the normal overdrive mode but stops if taken out of overdrive. Please post the fix after your trip to the dealer.
I have just balanced my tires, and at speeds of 70mph I feel a slight side to side shaking. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes. sometimes I do not feel anything but the road. I was wondering whether it could be a tire or the axel or steering wheel. The dealership they did look at the front end, could it be a alignment?? email me with direct solutions to rchtrad@aol.com.
I agree with your complaint about the steering wheel. I'm only 5"5' and I hit my left knee on the wheel all the time. Either allowing the wheel to tilt up more or adding a telescoping wheel like the Passat would help a lot...maybe next year.
The max was definitely not designed with short drivers in mind. On the other hand it's the most most fun car to drive that also holds the wife and kids in civilized manner
I am seriously considering purchasing a used 1996 Maxima GLE fully-loaded. It is in great shape and only have 50,000 km on it! Are there any suggestions on things I should look out for when I test drive it? Any known problems with the 1996 model? Any advice in general? What is everyone's opinion of the 1996 Maxima.
Thanks for your help. I really appreciate any feedback.
My 96 GLE was due for the 60K service. Just before I took it in, I went out to start it and it cranked normally, coughed, then continued to crank but would not start. During repeated attempts to start the car over the next few days, it would crank (it sounded like it was cranking with no compression), but would not start. It was cranking very quickly - the battery was fine. Arranged to have it towed in to the dealership.
The tow truck driver put his jump start box on the battery for extra boost, cranked it again (with his foot on the throttle. Couldn't see how much), and it started, with a cloud of smoke coming out the exhaust (as if it was flooded). This was several days after the first attempt.
Drove to the dealership and had the 60K service performed, and explained the above problem. The service advisors first explanation was that Maximas need 12.9V or more, or a similar problem can occur. My charging system and battery checked out fine.
In the end, I was told that the car was mechanically fine, and I must have tried to start it incorrectly.
Any insight as to what the problem was (is)? I live in CA, so it's not freezing temp or anything like that. My concern is that it could happen again. And it's over 60K, so it's out of warranty.
The service tech was blowin' smoke up yer [non-permissible content removed]. The problem was probably what's been known to be "normal" in all Maximas since the 95 VQ model. And that is...if you start the car for a very short time, like to move it into the garage, and the car had been sitting for a while, it will do that. All you have to do is fully depress the excellerator while cranking, and it will start. It will also blow out white-ish smoke due to being flooded...this too is normal, and has always been a trait of the VQ engine.
I have a Maxima 2001 GLE, and I have never experienced the above problem. It has been quite cold here in NY lately, and I have repeatedly just moved the car while cold so that my girlfriend can get out of the driveway. Could it be that they fixed the problem? My car always starts without a problem. Or just to be on the safe side do I have to run the engine for a few minutes? Thanks.
On my 99 max had the same problem, and I read the book, and found that the computer chip in the key was offset by some interferance, and I put the key in the door, turned it, and it started right up. Before I did that it would just crank, crank, and crank and would not start. Maybe this is some help. -Witt
jdubois, I bought my 96 GLE with 7500 miles on it in 96. The only service I've needed to perform is regularly scheduled maintenance. It gets good mileage, wind noise is still fairly low, and and the interior still looks great. It now has slightly more than 60K miles. Nissan reliability is very good. The only thing that I'm noticing is that the shocks seem to have gone soft. But with 60K on the clock, I guess it's about time.
We also bought a 99 SE new. It has had no problems either.
Sgr.....What's recommended is that you let the car run for about 60 seconds before shutting it off again...and you're right...I've not experienced the problem with my 2000 SE either, maybe they did find the problem.
Witt.....I think you have an even larger problem....your car starts when you turn the key in the door ! LOL..Sorry...couldn't resist. Yes, that's also been a problem that very few customers have experienced but, it's different than the one described above. With the problem you state, steping on and holding the excellerator down while cranking won't help. But thanks for bringing it up...someone else may have experienced the same problem and had no idea what it was.
Hi everybody! I just want to know if anyone out there knows when Nissan is going to change the body-style of the current Maxima. I was going to buy one after the 99 body-style, but when the 2000 came out with that hideous rear-end design, I decided that I better wait for the next generation Max. I just hope they do a much better job when Nissan goes back to the drawing board.
I just received a quote from a dealer on a SE with,Boise,Floor Mats,Microfilter,Splash Gaurds, C&C, and Leather for 26,351+tax+license. Invoice is 26,638.
Is this a good deal? Or can I do better? Carsdirect is quoting 25,776 but that is over the internet and I don't feel comfortable using the net for a car purchase.
frank, you are beginning to sound like whacko, except he does a much better job at humor, lol...
Short trips are always hard on the engine, you can find about it in every manual. And shutting off an engine that has not been warmed up is harder yet. I am wondering if that's what you wanted to know, though...
I would not know the answer to this question! You will have to ask Joe, how he comes up with this TECHNICAL information. I don't work for Nissan and I can only tell you from my past experiences. I do work on my cars but when it gets really technical, I am smart enough to know when it is out of my league. Cause I sure in the heck don't know it all, and have not problem saying it.
Whacko,
I have read (and yes, this is what Motortrend says, and they could be wrong)that in 2003 model that the Max will be much bigger. Also, as the car gets bigger they are going to put a bigger engine in it like the 3.5 liter. I guess Nissan is going to bump the Altima up to the current size of the Max now and give it the Max's engine. Again this is what you can check out if you go to Motortrend and check out the "future cars section" I believe it is on page 2. As far as the back end of the car....well I don't know. When I was at the Chicago auto show and asked the Nissan people, I could have gotten a better answer from a BOX OF ROCKS!
Did anyone else experience this problem? I have just balanced my tires, and at speeds of 70mph I feel a slight side to side shaking. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes. sometimes I do not feel anything but the road. I was wondering whether it could be a tire or the axel or steering wheel. The dealership they did look at the front end, could it be a alignment?? email me with direct solutions to rchtrad@aol.com.
The information you're asking about can be found in 2 separate TSB's. The first is TSB# 96-103 (Oct 96) "Intermit. hard start" And TSB# 95090 (Sep 95) "Hard Cranking"...Both TSB's will explain the 60 sec. warm up procedure, and why it is suggested.
I have a '98 Maxima and love it dearly. I'm sick with the flu so I decided to see how much my car is worth. I found this message board through Edmunds and decided to read ALL 1237 messages, yes I said all 1237 messages! Glad to see Edmunds allows us to post these messages so everyone knows what's going on with your car.
What was so suprising was the soap opera that has been happening between joenissan and everyone else. At times it made me laugh and other times mad. It seems everyone has an opinion and its not always nice. I'm glad there is some monitoring, but its to bad L8_Apex can't just delete that person right off the system....something to think about. Surely Edmunds has control over this content and besides you had to agree to their terms before you could post anything.
Well on with my problem. My 1998 Maxima is dark green, loaded and has 45,000 miles on it. The hood on the car will not stay up. I have to use a board to hold it up. Has others had this problem. Is it covered under the warranty? I've not been to the dealer yet but since I was here I thought I'd ask. Has other year cars had this problem?
I also had a problem where in the morning I would crank the car up and it wouldn't start. But after a few tries and pumping the gas it cranked up. This only happen in the morning. Evenn after sitting for 9 hours at work, it would crank right up. Only in the morning would this happen. (Its kept in a garage too) The dealer replaced the fuel filter and adjusted the throttle. At times I did run the fuel tank down so the light would come on telling you to get gas, but this has not happen any more. (post #'s 1228,1230,1233)
I also have the problem with a noise coming from the fan when its in a low speed. Thanks joenissan for the TSB (NTB99017A) so I can get that fixed.
To sum up, thanks for everyone's insight in the world of the Maxima and how things can go wrong, but most importantly, how to get them fixed!!
I've seen quite a few of the same hood problems but, mostly on the 95 and 96 models. Not because they're any different in design but, because they're a bit older. You need to have the two hood struts replaced and with 45k on the car, you probably will have to pay for them yourself. Hopefully you've had the problem since before the warranty was up, and can insist they cover it (It does work sometimes). If not, they're about $80 EACH!, and not at all fun to get the old ones off. Once the old ones come off, the new ones just snap right on. This will cure the hood problem...Good Luck. And please excuse the so-called drama in here...as you may have noticed, I don't even respond anymore..it's become too far below me to bother.
Scroll back and read the posts regarding the hard start problem. They pertain to pre 2k Maximas. It's possible the "problem" has been rectified in the newer models as previously stated. The reason I say it's possibly been rectified is due to the lack of any TSB for the same problem in the 2k-01 Maximas. What you asked for is what I gave you, and those TSB's will explain the 60 sec. warm-up procedure as requested. It simply stands to reason that anyone who may find their newer maximas doing the same thing, should follow this procedure. An earlier post did, I believe, mention this happening to a 2k or 01 Maxima, in which the tow-truck driver did what's recommended in the pre 2k TSB's, and the car started.
First question...my 1997 Infiniti I30 makes a low squeak noise that I can feel in the seats when I start the car COLD every morning (when its 30 degrees and lower). I read some posts on the Maxima Problems board and found that someone posted something that may be the same as my problem...but his description wasnt clear. The squeak (which is quite loud) lasts for a second RIGHT after the car starts. What is this!!!
Also, I have the tan leather interior in my car, and there's a whole bunch of black spots and stains all over the seats and on the vinyl side armrests etc. What is a GOOD, QUICK and EASY cleaner to remove this without causing long-term harm to these surfaces?? Any suggestions? Thanks!
The squeak sounds like a loose belt, and after a few seconds it grabs and the squeak goes away...try having the belt tension checked. Good ole' saddle soap is safe and has always worked quite well. It's even good for getting that heavy use gunk off the leather steering wheel rim.
thanks for the reply...i originally thought of the loose belt problem, but the dealer already checked twice and said all tension was okay. They THINK it could be related to a possible hairline fracture I already have in my exhaust manifold, for which they ordered the parts for. Could this be likely, or can I suggest something different? I wouldnt argue that possibility.
Also, can you suggest any BRANDS of stuff I could use to clean off the nasty marks from the car interior surfaces? Thanks!
I've never experienced a cracked exhaust manifold that would cause a squeaking noise ..but hey...stranger things have happened. I guess you'll find out for sure when they replace the cracked one.
there are black stains left on and around the door handles (mostly from mechanics hands), there are also a few small black scuff marks on the leather portions of the seating surfaces. I am mostly concerned with the black marks on the doorhandles, and also the scuff marks from shoes kicking the front speakers on the front doors. It really shows up on the tan interior! A friend of mine at the local "instant carwash" place used some "Tar Remover" and said if he didnt clean it off with water afterwards, long-term destruction of the plastic would occur. I DEFINATELY did not want him to use this stuff on my leather! There must be something out there thats gentle yet effective...thanks!
For the leather, any good leather cleaner, as long as the leather isn't actually gauged, will work...you can try using regular saddle soap, which is what I use on leather...it works pretty good.
For the doors, any kind of degreaser should work if it's grease...any actual scuff marks, depending on how bad and deep they are...may be permanent. Try good ole Armour All on them....it'll sometimes lessen the appearence of scuffs. Do be careful, and DO NOT use tar remover on plastics or leather. It will discolor and/or melt plastic. You may have to try a few different things seeing as different types of marks and scuffs react differenly to different products.
I was considering extending my 3/36 mile warranty. I currently have 35.500 miles on my SE. I have only one problem so far, the passenger door sticks and lube has not worked. I have owned several Toyota's with little problems. I happy so far, but this is my first Nissan and I wondering if I should spring for the additional coverage (7/100).
1. Should I buy the Nissan plan? How much? 2. Should I go with e-z care? Less money 3. Should I do nothing?
My factory CD player works great with CD-R audio recorded discs. It will not play CD-RW audio discs. A gereral statement would be that almost all CD players should be able to play CD-R audio discs with some exceptions. Another general statement would be that almost all CD players will not be able to play CD-RW recorded discs with some exceptions. The CD-RW discs are recorded in a different format that most CD players can't play. The CD-RW recorded discs usually can be played back using newer CD-Rom drives in computers. More often CD-RW discs are used for data storage.
It really depends on how long you plan on keeping the car, how good you are at maintaining your car. Personally, I think what we charge is a rip-off. You already have 5/60 powertrain coverage, which also covers front struts. Unless you plan on putting WELL over 100k on the car, I'd save the money and if you need to have any out of warranty repairs done...it'll probably be less than what you'd pay for the extended warr. anyhow. Just my opinion.
Strooper....As mentioned before, No....CD-RW's will not play in the factory CD player, as well as most others...even home CD players.
Thanks, I was thinking the same. My dealer gave me a price of $1,166.00 6/100. I will sell around 60K. $1200.00 can go along way in repairs with a local repair shop.
Comments
Joe
the subwoofer has been rattling lately. i recently opened the trunk, and something looked different.. i could have sworn that the subwoofer was enclosed in sime sort of sound-proofing box, but its not their anymore!!
am i going nuts, or did someone steal the thing (probably the dealer mechanics). i went to the dealer, and they are claiming ignorance (they say it never existed, and i am crazy). i may be dreaming, but i really thought something was there before (limited truk space in the rear) - someone please help - thanx
I know nobody wants to hear it but...it has to go back to the dealer to be reset, or replaced. Warranty does, of course, cover it.
Joe
Slope
I got some advice on this message board and would like to thank those that answers my questions. By the way, I bought it at Troncalli Nissan in Decatur GA.
Joe
STEVE
My last trip on interstates and back road of West Virginia got me 23 MPG (much more aggressive driving... much more fun).
Are their any adjustments (mechanical or to my driving) that can improve the MPG?
Joe
The max was definitely not designed with short drivers in mind. On the other hand it's the most most fun car to drive that also holds the wife and kids in civilized manner
I am seriously considering purchasing a used 1996 Maxima GLE fully-loaded. It is in great shape and only have 50,000 km on it! Are there any suggestions on things I should look out for when I test drive it? Any known problems with the 1996 model? Any advice in general? What is everyone's opinion of the 1996 Maxima.
Thanks for your help. I really appreciate any feedback.
The tow truck driver put his jump start box on the battery for extra boost, cranked it again (with his foot on the throttle. Couldn't see how much), and it started, with a cloud of smoke coming out the exhaust (as if it was flooded). This was several days after the first attempt.
Drove to the dealership and had the 60K service performed, and explained the above problem. The service advisors first explanation was that Maximas need 12.9V or more, or a similar problem can occur. My charging system and battery checked out fine.
In the end, I was told that the car was mechanically fine, and I must have tried to start it incorrectly.
Any insight as to what the problem was (is)? I live in CA, so it's not freezing temp or anything like that. My concern is that it could happen again. And it's over 60K, so it's out of warranty.
Thanks for any help.
The problem was probably what's been known to be "normal" in all Maximas since the 95 VQ model. And that is...if you start the car for a very short time, like to move it into the garage, and the car had been sitting for a while, it will do that. All you have to do is fully depress the excellerator while cranking, and it will start. It will also blow out white-ish smoke due to being flooded...this too is normal, and has always been a trait of the VQ engine.
Joe
-Witt
jdubois, I bought my 96 GLE with 7500 miles on it in 96. The only service I've needed to perform is regularly scheduled maintenance. It gets good mileage, wind noise is still fairly low, and and the interior still looks great. It now has slightly more than 60K miles. Nissan reliability is very good. The only thing that I'm noticing is that the shocks seem to have gone soft. But with 60K on the clock, I guess it's about time.
We also bought a 99 SE new. It has had no problems either.
Witt.....I think you have an even larger problem....your car starts when you turn the key in the door ! LOL..Sorry...couldn't resist. Yes, that's also been a problem that very few customers have experienced but, it's different than the one described above. With the problem you state, steping on and holding the excellerator down while cranking won't help. But thanks for bringing it up...someone else may have experienced the same problem and had no idea what it was.
Joe
Is this a good deal? Or can I do better? Carsdirect is quoting 25,776 but that is over the internet and I don't feel comfortable using the net for a car purchase.
Short trips are always hard on the engine, you can find about it in every manual. And shutting off an engine that has not been warmed up is harder yet. I am wondering if that's what you wanted to know, though...
I would not know the answer to this question! You will have to ask Joe, how he comes up with this TECHNICAL information. I don't work for Nissan and I can only tell you from my past experiences. I do work on my cars but when it gets really technical, I am smart enough to know when it is out of my league. Cause I sure in the heck don't know it all, and have not problem saying it.
Whacko,
I have read (and yes, this is what Motortrend says, and they could be wrong)that in 2003 model that the Max will be much bigger. Also, as the car gets bigger they are going to put a bigger engine in it like the 3.5 liter. I guess Nissan is going to bump the Altima up to the current size of the Max now and give it the Max's engine. Again this is what you can check out if you go to Motortrend and check out the "future cars section" I believe it is on page 2. As far as the back end of the car....well I don't know. When I was at the Chicago auto show and asked the Nissan people, I could have gotten a better answer from a BOX OF ROCKS!
The first is TSB# 96-103 (Oct 96) "Intermit. hard start"
And TSB# 95090 (Sep 95) "Hard Cranking"...Both TSB's will explain the 60 sec. warm up procedure, and why it is suggested.
Joe
What was so suprising was the soap opera that has been happening between joenissan and everyone else. At times it made me laugh and other times mad. It seems everyone has an opinion and its not always nice. I'm glad there is some monitoring, but its to bad L8_Apex can't just delete that person right off the system....something to think about. Surely Edmunds has control over this content and besides you had to agree to their terms before you could post anything.
Well on with my problem. My 1998 Maxima is dark green, loaded and has 45,000 miles on it. The hood on the car will not stay up. I have to use a board to hold it up. Has others had this problem. Is it covered under the warranty? I've not been to the dealer yet but since I was here I thought I'd ask. Has other year cars had this problem?
I also had a problem where in the morning I would crank the car up and it wouldn't start. But after a few tries and pumping the gas it cranked up. This only happen in the morning. Evenn after sitting for 9 hours at work, it would crank right up. Only in the morning would this happen. (Its kept in a garage too) The dealer replaced the fuel filter and adjusted the throttle. At times I did run the fuel tank down so the light would come on telling you to get gas, but this has not happen any more. (post #'s 1228,1230,1233)
I also have the problem with a noise coming from the fan when its in a low speed. Thanks joenissan for the TSB (NTB99017A) so I can get that fixed.
To sum up, thanks for everyone's insight in the world of the Maxima and how things can go wrong, but most importantly, how to get them fixed!!
Sincerely,
98Maxima
Joe
It simply stands to reason that anyone who may find their newer maximas doing the same thing, should follow this procedure. An earlier post did, I believe, mention this happening to a 2k or 01 Maxima, in which the tow-truck driver did what's recommended in the pre 2k TSB's, and the car started.
Joe
Also, I have the tan leather interior in my car, and there's a whole bunch of black spots and stains all over the seats and on the vinyl side armrests etc. What is a GOOD, QUICK and EASY cleaner to remove this without causing long-term harm to these surfaces?? Any suggestions? Thanks!
Good ole' saddle soap is safe and has always worked quite well. It's even good for getting that heavy use gunk off the leather steering wheel rim.
Joe
Also, can you suggest any BRANDS of stuff I could use to clean off the nasty marks from the car interior surfaces? Thanks!
What kind of marks, and on what surfaces ?
Joe
98Maxima
For the doors, any kind of degreaser should work if it's grease...any actual scuff marks, depending on how bad and deep they are...may be permanent. Try good ole Armour All on them....it'll sometimes lessen the appearence of scuffs.
Do be careful, and DO NOT use tar remover on plastics or leather. It will discolor and/or melt plastic. You may have to try a few different things seeing as different types of marks and scuffs react differenly to different products.
Joe
Thanks,
Trooper
1. Should I buy the Nissan plan? How much?
2. Should I go with e-z care? Less money
3. Should I do nothing?
I welcome any comments.
My factory CD player works great with CD-R audio recorded discs. It will not play CD-RW audio discs. A gereral statement would be that almost all CD players should be able to play CD-R audio discs with some exceptions. Another general statement would be that almost all CD players will not be able to play CD-RW recorded discs with some exceptions. The CD-RW discs are recorded in a different format that most CD players can't play. The CD-RW recorded discs usually can be played back using newer CD-Rom drives in computers. More often CD-RW discs are used for data storage.
George
Strooper....As mentioned before, No....CD-RW's will not play in the factory CD player, as well as most others...even home CD players.
Joe