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Buick Regal



  • jdpinajdpina Posts: 4
    I have a problem with my power door locks, As I am driving down the road the power locks click to lock my doors while I am driving. Where would I start to try to find the problem? It think it might be a short somewhere, I sure would like to know were to start looking.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Not sure about '96 models, but on '97 and up the doors lock automatically when the transaxle is shifted out of park. It is a programmable feature with detailed instructions on how to set the various lock modes in the owner's manual. One of the modes is for NO automatic lock or unlock.
  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    In my 99 Regal GS, when I turn on the ac or heat it smells like something is burning under the hood. I have checked all my fluid levels, and they are within an acceptable range. I sometimes smell the burning when I am going up a steep hill or using the engine more too.
    I know this could probably be many things but I thought maybe someone has had a similar experience... I will take it in, but I wanted some idea of what it could be first.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Sorry if this sounds too obvious, but I know of three individuals who took their cars to those quick oil change places and were sent on their way with the oil filler cap still laying on top of the air intake plenum. Oh, make that four. It happened to my mother's car last month!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi and welcome to our Forums.

    Just a couple of tips - it's better to not post in all caps, since all caps makes a message difficult to read and is interpreted as shouting. Also, rather than asking people to email you, let's have the conversation right here within the discussion. That way all current and future readers of these posts will benefit.
  • Just purchased a GS with 60K miles. Can someone provide information about gutting the airbox to improve the existing intake? What's to be done with the electronic gizmo? Thanks
  • Once in a while the shift between 1st and 2nd is really hard and then the shift between 2nd and 3rd is hard but the rest are fine. This problem is intermittent but is becoming more frequent. Tranny shop said it was electrical since it does not occur consistently. Has 114500 miles, fluid was changed at 60K. Fluid looks and smells good. Any ideas?? Live in the Seattle area and drive about 100 miles a day on the highway. Otherwise has been great car.

    Thanks in advance :confuse:
  • My 97'Regal GS recently began to show the brake,Abs,trac off,and service engine soon light on the instrument panel. Also a grinding noise when the right or left turn signal is applied. the car will continue too grind until the e.b.c.m. runs the abs motor pack self test which it is only supposed to when the car is first started or driven. Maybe ABS problems???? :confuse: :cry: :lemon:
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Here's some photos... -

    The "electronic gizmo" [The PCM] stays there in the box...
  • I have read here that the rear speakers in a Monsoon system have a 6x9 subwoofer and two 4" speakers under the speaker grille in each side of the rear. My 99 Regal has a stock Monsoon system and it has one 4" and one 5"x7" speaker visible under the grille. Is there another 6"x9" speaker under these speakers or is the 5"x7" speaker the subwoofer? I understand it is a lot of work to remove the rear deck to replace these speakers. Can anyone shed any light on this subject?

  • I have a 96 Buick regal Custom, the water pump is leaking and
    I am trying to replace the water pump however on the 96 Regal there is a bolt on the left side facing the front of the engine where the drive belt is located, behind the Power Steering pump pulley. Do I have to remove the power steering pump in order to get the last bolt off or can the pulley be removed or what? :surprise:
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I've never done this before, but I read somewhere of someone who did. They removed the rear seat, removed 3 pins that hold down the rear deck lid, then pressed down on the edges of the deck to clear the metal tabs and removed the deck lid. Someone else said they had to remove the C pillar trim. I guess those metal tabs have sharp edges, so be careful. Good luck. Maybe you could come back and tell us how it went.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Also remember that the speakers are 2 ohm...

    Info on Monsoon systems...
  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    So I took the car in and it turn out it is the burning is oil leaking from the valve cover gaskets. Seems like it is too hard of a job for me to do myself so I will have to take it in...

    Good luck finding your problem.
  • I have a 2004 Buick Regal LS and because it's a Canadian model it has the automatic daytime running lamps. I'm wondering if the fog lamps are of any use at any time. I find using them at night they offer next to no difference and during the day, say if it's foggy, they are equally useless because the headlights come on automatically.

    I have the factory bulbs, so I suppose that might be part of the problem, but will new bulbs really make that much difference?
  • My 97 Buick Regal has started dieing at low speeds. I'll pull over to the side of the road, and then try to start it. Sometimes when I turn the key nothing happens. Radio still plays, lights don't go dim, just nothing. Then 10 seconds later it starts and is fine, but still running rough. I've also been replacing bulbs quite abit, so I thought maybe it was the alternator. I had an alternator put on a year ago, so maybe it's gone bad. I found somebody else on this site that had similar problems, and one poster replied that it was the alternator. Can anybody confirm?

    Thank you,

    [email protected]
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Fog lamps are not "just decoration", but their effect is rather limited. I would say they are something like 75% decoration, and 25% substance. Or even 90% decoration, 10% substance in case of Regal.

    The light from fog lamps, sitting low above the road, does not reflect from fog (or snowfall, or rain) back to the driver's eyes as much as the light from headlights. It helps a bit in light fog and in rain, in the night time. Does not help in a dense fog or strong snowfall, inpenetrable by light.

    Fog lights are most efficient with trucks and SUV, where the driver sits high, and headlights are sitting far from the ground. Less efficient with cars. The Regal's headlights are sitting rather low, just above its fog lights, so the difference in reflection is minimal.

    There is no use for fog lamps when driving with the high beams. Too much "headlight" light is reflected back. Must switch to low beams when driving in night in fog, snowfall, or even in strong rain.

    For the same reason, there is no much sense in strong fog lamps. When fog lamps may be useful, strong light would reflects back. Yellow fog lamps, may be, are more efficient.

    Fog lamps are kind of status symbol, however. You can see many car, and especially trucks, driving with fog lamps on - even in a perfect weather. Just to show everybody that it is a more expensive vehicle. Or that its owner bought a set of aftermarket headlights, for as low as 35 to 50 bucks, and installed them.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    >Just to show everybody that it is a more expensive vehicle. Or that its owner bought a set of aftermarket headlights, for as low as 35 to 50 bucks, and installed them.

    Or to blind oncoming drivers with the low-mounted lights shining up into their eyes. I thought road lights were to be used with high beams and have been perverted into the use with low beams in US to blind oncoming drivers and make the road less safe instead of being able to see better at high speed with high beams on.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • rigerriger Posts: 2
    The "service engine soon" light keeps coming on about a week after turning it off. The code is po420 (low efficiency). I have changed the catalytic converter and the front O2 sensor. Any other ideas what might be the cause.
  • rigerriger Posts: 2
    Sorry - the message in #3057 is concerning a 2002 Buick Regal LS
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I've only had two experiences where the Service Engine Soon light came on. The first was when I didn't tighten down on the gas cap (discovered that by checking the owner's manual), and the second was in conjunction with a rough running engine which turned out to be dirty fuel injectors. Since then I've been adding a bottle of Chevron's Techron fuel injector cleaner at every oil change and haven't had the problem since. Please let us know how things turn out.
  • hi...i am new to new forum. i have been driving a buiclk regal ls 2000 for close to 2 years. i have some questions here.
    1. the ext temp sensor doesn't seem to work. for example, the temperature this morning was in the 40s, but the indicator panel showed 105 F at the start and reached 120 F within 15 minutes of driving on the highway. i have read that this could be due to a faulty sensor, and the best way would be to replace with a new one. Is it expensive to get a new one, or can i drive my car and ignore the temperature indication? there was once the ext temp sensor indicated a very high temperature, and the engine would not restart. i had to wait for a while before the engine could be started. i don't know if engine problem is related to the temp sensor.

    2. the Service Engine Soon light came off recently and lasted for a couple of weeks. A few days ago, for some unknown reasons, the light went off. is this a common issue in buick regals? should i ignore it since the warning light has gone off?

    thank you. hope to hear some feedback.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    The external temperature sensor only controls the climate control with its input; it doesn't affect the motor's sensors and inputs.

    The external sensor is in front of the radiator probably on a center vertical support. It's about the size of your thumb. I would try disconnecting it and reconnecting it since there will be a connector somewhere close to it. If the digital control for the HVAC is not flashing when you start up, it's probably just a bad connection or bad sensor. Try and for the part (I can't find it on rockauto). Also check with Advance Auto and NAPA. I would expect it to be under $40 for a replacement.

    The service engine soon light can be gas cap seal. Try a little vaseline on the rubber seal on the cap. Use an oiled cloth to rub the inside of the metal filler tube to remove any buildup. I've seen brown crud from gas or something building up where the contact with the cap is made. If it's not a flashing yellow light, then it's a low level pollution control problem.

    If that is what's causing the light, the system retests the seal of the tank and other tubes to the charcoal canister only when started lukewarm. I would drive until the temp gauge just starts up to like 100. Stop car for a while (I got coffee) and then when you restart the car just sit at idle for a minute or two and the light may go off if the pressure test is passed. If the car is warmed above 170 it does not do the pressure test. These were the parameters used for my 98 LeSabre's system when I read the factory manual to learn how its yellow light worked!!!

    Hope this helps.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    I found a temperature sensor on gmpartsdirect at $4.40 or so with $9 shipping. You might check locally. There were two different part numbers listed. Check the number for the one you have when you check the connection. But it's possible there's an updated part...

    It's cheaper than I expected...

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • >Fog lamps are not "just decoration", but their effect is >rather limited. I would say they are something like 75% >decoration, and 25% substance. Or even 90% decoration, >10% substance in case of Regal.

    Well, I was being about 75% sarcastic, 25% serious, but I understand what you're saying. They do serve a purpose, but it seems extremely limited. The only time when my normal headlights aren't on - thanks to the car's sensor - is in daylight. So whenever I might want to use the fog lights, my headlights are on anyway.

    I have always been under the impression that the better lights for fog, etc. are the orange/amber lights because it is better able to penetrate fog, snow, sleet, etc. compared to white lights which as you say is reflected back to the driver, not to mention oncoming traffic. And of course rule #1 for bad weather is to never use high beams.

    I can't recall off the top of my head what lights the Regal has for "parking" I know the parking lights on the Regal are amber, but I'm not sure if a dim white light also appears. But it's a moot point because one can't drive (at least not with the Canadian model) with the lights in parking mode if it's at all dim outside.

    So I guess I'll just let the Regal decide what lights it wants to use and try to remember to dust off the fog light button every so often!
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,774
    Looking into getting a antifreeze change and flush. One service center had a good price but is using recycled antifreeze. Is this just as good as new antifreeze?
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I would buy my own antifreeze. Even more, that Regal, as well as most of other modern GM cars, uses orange DEX-COOL antifreeze instead of the usual green one. Allegedly it is good for 5 years or 150k miles, but I prefer to change it after 3 years.

    The last time when I checked, the orange antifreeze cost about $10 in Wal-Mart. Regal requires two gallons, i.e. $20. Distilled water is available at drugstores, but the water is very soft in CT where I live, so I skip the distilled water.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    Re Techron:

    A procedure for getting maximum cleaning out of it is to put it in only with a very low tank and put in only the number of gallons of quality premium fuel that the bottle size is for, 12 or 20 gallons. Drive that down low again. Then put in a second bottle and drive that out. Don't add gasoline until 2nd tank is mostly used up. Do not repeat a third time. Use premium fuel for the additional cleaners in them.

    I did that double treatment once and didn't really notice any change with the second tank. The professional mechanic who recommends this knows his stuff. This is what he recommends for the really problematic symptom cars. I would skip the repeat treatments later until you sense symptoms. I put it through maybe every 9 months just for good luck.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Like others, I doubt if I would feel real secure driving away with "recycled" antifreeze. Not sure what price they quoted you, but at the local Rapid Oil Change in our neighborhood the price was $69.99 before AAA discount. I think, however, that was for the green stuff (I switched our '99 Regal over to green just after the warranty expired).
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,774
    It was also $69 at one of our locally ownened Firestone Service Centers. But, I suppose that was for the green. Didn't really think about switching over to green...any benefit other than inital cost?
  • I have a 98 Regal GS that i got a few months ago. I wanna try to get some info from some people that know a lot about Regals, this is probably the best place. First of all what are those 2 small container looking things that are on the air intake between the airfilter and engine. I ask because the one on the bottom fell off and it felt like the engine was sucking in air without being filtered. There was nothing in the container so i cleaned it out and stuck it back where it came from, seemed to fit nicely. I just was wondering what their purpose was? and has anyone figured out how to stop the dash rattiling. seems to be coming from where the windshield and dash meet. thanks for any help.
  • You may want to read the following article and/or do some research before you consider switching from dex-cool over to the green stuff:
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,774
    Thanks for the link. But, the article stated a coolant system flush would filter and recondition the old coolant, then this recycled fluid would be put back in the vehicle.

    Are all coolant system flushes like this? For the money I would be paying, I would want to pay a little more and get the new stuff put in.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    No, not all cooling system flushes are of the recycle method. I always watch when they flush the system in my '99 Regal, and they always use new coolant.

    Regarding switching to green from orange, it is true you do not want to mix the two. When I switched to green 3 years ago it was when there were all those horror stories about how Dex-Cool would eat intake head gaskets. Now I've come to the belief that the problem was basically a "training issue" where owners were told Dex-Cool was good for 5 years/150,000, so they basically put it out of their minds and never even bothered to check it.

    And therein lies the problem. No matter what flavor coolant we use, we still need to check it on a scheduled basis. I believe the killer for Dex-Cool users is when air gets into the system after the overflow tank runs dry (due to owner neglect). Likewise, owners shouldn't depend on GM's claim of 5 years/150,000 miles usage. The liquid turns into a redish/brownish sludge as I saw in a friend's Le Sabre.

    I have the green stuff, and the rules for that flavor haven't changed. It should be changed out about every 2 years/24,000 miles. My twin sons each bought used low-mileage Buick Century's this year. The first thing they did was change out all the fluids, and they asked me if they should also change the coolant to green stuff. My advice to them was to keep the Dex-Cool, but get it flushed out with new Dex-Cool every 3 years or 50,000 miles. So far, so good.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    I'd suggest changing DexCool every two years 24,000 miles just like the abrasive green stuff.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • I have a 1994 buick regal limited and was wodering if I could bypass the a/c compressor by using a smaller belt or if there wa a bypass pulley I could get....any help would be appreciated
  • rick4rick4 Posts: 14
    Can someone tell me where these are located. The fan does not work in the low position but ok in at the other speeds. I have the chiltons book, but they tried to cover too many models (chevy pontiac buick) and they skip a lot of details. Its a 98 regal.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I have a Haynes manual for Buick Century/Regal, and it has a section on the heater blower. You first need to remove the lower right dash insulator panel below the glove box to get access to the blower motor (but you probably already knew that!). I think the resistor is located somewhere in that housing fastened by some mounting screws. You might need to use a small screwdriver to release the blower motor relay from the harness connector for better access.

    If the coils on the backside of the resistor look okay, it might be a fault in the blower speed switch.

    Good luck. Perhaps you can report back with how it all worked out. :)
  • jme4jme4 Posts: 3
    I have a 03 buick regal v-6 K, it will start but will not idle. After starting it revs up kinda high then dies, I can keep it running if I keep my foot on the gas pedal. When I do that it backfires when it dies. I just replaced the fuel filter but no luck. For about 2 weeks previous to this I had some problems with it not starting on the first try,I thought it was because of the cold, then all of the sudden, this. When it first happened it would idle but it was really rough. Now that it has sat or whatever it does the other. It was suggested that I check that the coils are good and I bought a spark plug line tester thing but I can't keep it running long enough to use it. I'm sorry if I'm rambling but I figure the more info I can give you the better.The car only has 20K on it. any suggestions?
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Might be bad gas, like you suspected, or:
    1. Leaky vacuum hose (hear any hissing sound in engine with hood open?)
    2. Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve.
    3. Air filter clogged.

    These ideas taken from troubleshooting section of Haynes manual. There are other causes listed, such as leaking head gasket and worn camshaft lobes, but they probably aren't worth considering because your car has so low mileage.

    Does your "Service Engine Soon" light come on?

    Other ideas:
    1. Check if gas cap tightly secured.
    2. Pour in a can of Techron fuel injector cleaner.

    Good luck. Please let us know how it works out.
  • clikinclikin Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Regal and I was trying to change out the tape deck and put in a new kenwood CD head unit. Ok here comes the big Q....Does anyone know how I can do this. Here is why I ask, I have done many radio change outs but this one is a little different. The radio is in one place and the tape deck is in another. I got a wiring harness but its not the right one. Dont know if this is the case because this car is a Regal Custom are what. Also all the wiring is a little different... ie like everything else I have worked on. I could get the new deck to come on and light up and even got the power ant. to come up and down when switching from tuner to cd to standby...but no sound are mem. If anyone can help please do...thanks
  • my car's (94 buick regal) left turn signal doesn't work.right turn signal work in the rear only.hazard lights do not work at all.all fuses are good.any ideas?
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,774
    Any thoughts on which tire would be a better choice for my 99' Buick LS? Looking at Yokohama Avid touring($348 out the door) and the Yokohama Avid T4($305 out the door which includes $60 off)I drive about 6k a year. Most likely will be last tire purchase for this vehicle before selling. I like a quiet comfortable tire...but also some performance.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    It is time to replace the front rotors of my 2000 Regal GS. I would like to upgrade them to 11.8" (30 cm.) rotors, as on 2000-2005 Impala LS and many other cars. GM sells kits with these rotors, pads, brackets, and pins. The kits are advertised for Pontiac Gran Prix, but not for Regal.

    Many people reported at that the kits can be installed on GS as well. However, I am not sure that it true with all kind of wheels. I have "silver" 16" wheels, not the more usual chrome.

    Any suggestions?
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I believe the lug nut pattern between the standard alloy wheel and the optional chrome wheel are the same on Regals, whether they be LS or GS flavors. I suppose to be sure you could always remove one of the rotors from your GS and take it into a Chevy or Pontiac dealer and compare it to the larger rotor, assuming you have access to another vehicle.

    Just curious: why do you want to go to a larger size?
  • rick4rick4 Posts: 14
    I purchased a set of Goodyear assurance comfortread tires. If you want quiet comfortable riding tires, these are it. The set I replaced were Response rst(or something like that) which were a very noisy tire. The Goodyears are almost like riding on pillows. I did notice a 3 to 5 % decrease in gas mileage, I'm guessing due to the softer sidewall. I believe they were ~380.$$ at Discount Tire
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Thank you very much!

    The lug nut pattern is the same with Regal, Impala, or Gran Prix. However, Impala, Monte Carlo and some Intrigue have bigger and better brakes. The same with new generation W-bodies, like LaCrosse.

    GM sells the Impala brakes as High Performance Front Brake Upgrade Kit, part 12498644, and advertises it for owners of Pontiac GP with 16" wheels.

    Regal GS and LS with the touring suspension have 16" wheels as well. However, some 16" wheels are incompatible with the bigger brakes. The gap between the brackets and 16" rims is very tight. Depending on the rim geometry, it may rib the brackets.

    The stock brakes of my 2000 Regal GS always were somewhat weak. From the very beginning. Probably a bad copy: my 2004 GS with the same brakes stops noticeable faster.

    Recently I serviced the car at my dealer, and mechanic told that it is time to replace rotors. The wear is too deep. I see it myself too.

    Given that I had to replace rotors and pads anyway, I want to use the occasion for upgrading to 12" rotors. Even more than my son turns 16 the next fall: the safer, the better.

    I want to go to the larger size, because the bigger brakes resist fade better. They do not overheat easy. This is very important if you need to stop (or almost stop) several times in row from higher speed, as it happens in the stop and go traffic on highways.

    I am not sure if the braking distance is shorter with bigger rotors. For shorter braking distance, I am going to buy sporty aftermarket pads and rotors. The rotors are more efficient in rain as well.

    I wandered, though, if my 6-spoke 2000-2004 Regal rims will clear the brackets. I asked on the forum, and received a positive answer from a nice gentlemen who already upgraded his Regal, with the same wheels, to the 12" rotors.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I have first hand expirience with Avid Tourings and they are great. Quiet on the highway and work well in rain. A great all-around tire.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,774
    Bushwack, how many miles you have on your Avid Tourings? Any noticeable change in performance with increased mileage?

    I called a tire dealership this morning and got a price on the Yokohama Touring ($365 on the rim and out the door).I asked about performance tires. The manager said a touring tire is better. I asked about the Avid T4, he said that WAS a touring as it is T rated. I said I thought the T4 was more of a performance tire. He said it came up as a touring...and it is stated as a touring tire in the dealerships ad in the paper this morning. But, tireracks information calls it a performance tire. I guess its a low performance touring tire :confuse:

    Got the coolant flush & fill and transmission flush the other day at the Buick Dealership. $109 coolant and $119 transmission. I guess I could have saved $50 by taking it to a quickie lube place or some other discount place, but
    feel it was done properly at dealership.
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