Buick Regal



  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    The FPR is about $70 and $80 for Delco units without shipping on rockauto.com. I don't know which is correct for your application.

    But, the mechanic needs to drive the car with a Tech II attached so that when it is coming to a stop the Tech II records what changed at the time of the stalling. The computer used by the dealer is portable.

    You could be chasing a poor connection in fuel pump wires going under through the car to the pump. It loses contact under certain deceleration forces.

    You could be chasing a vacuum leak caused by poor tubing around the upper intake on the car or the upper intake itself leaking around the seal or a crack but only under certain conditions (but you've never mentioned erratic idle speed or high idle speed--I'm using this as an elusive, hard-to-find problem that others have ended up finding).

    You could have an EGR sticking open as the engine slows down causing a stall. Have you disconnected the EGr and driven the car for a while?

    Has the MAF been cleaned with solvent? Has another one been put in temporarily to see if that cures the problem.

    Driving with a Tech II attached will catch either the direct cause (power to fuel pump failed briefly, e.g.) or a symptom of what is causing the stall.

    Does the car have double positive battery cables? Has the plastic between them been opened and the connection inside checked as well as down into the cable? Does anything else electrical happen when the motor dies?

    That's why I'm critiquing your guy and his trouble shooting.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bsamstagbsamstag Member Posts: 10
    Wow! That's about the most comprehensive treatment of the Regal problem I've received thus far. Many thanks; I will use the message as a checklist.

    Regarding the battery cables, etc. I noted this problem happening a while back when I turned the radio on. But, the car has run very well with the radio on and off since then. I have switched everything electrical on and off while driving, and none had any bad effect. When the car stalls, the radio continues to play.

    My son called on his way home this evening and said the Buick was acting up again, stalling when coming to a stop. He used the technique of shifting into neutral, restarting and feeding the gas to keep the revs up while still rolling. Since this happened at night, the normal dashboard panel lights are lighted, but no warning lights are showing, a condition some have noted in other forums. I think that rules out an ignition problem?

    The odometer has been dark for several months, and the gas gauge is unreliable, but he did refuel earlier this evening, so it was not an out-of-fuel condition.

    Thanks again! I'll try what is within my expertise, and check back with you.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    Check both ends of cables to battery for corrosion. If you have the double positive cable with a large plastic cover over the ends, cut into it. A few people found a lead spacer (on H_bodies) and corrosion. One or more found the copper cable corroded and gone due to acid or something else.

    On H-bodies (leSabre Bonneville Park Ave) there are ground busses in cable bundles that are under the carpet at the front of the door sill, on both sides. Those have corroded due to moisture and salts for some people. I don't know if your car has those.

    Have you tried disconnecting EGR yourself and driving? The MAF sensor also can cause stalls but usually people have other running strangeness happen with MAF.

    I still recommend taping a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield to see if your fuel is dropping pressure. Some cars are sensitive to a tired fuel pump not quite making exactly the pressure range required by the injectors to give a proper spray pattern.

    A professional mechanic, trained at Cincinnati area vocational school and owning a body shop auto mechanical repair garage in upscale Cincy, talked on his radio program about taping gauges on and driving customer cars to try to catch a pump problem.

    You need to eliminate things one-by-one.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bsamstagbsamstag Member Posts: 10
    ARGGGGGGGGGGGGG! I hate that %$#@ Buick Regal!!! I prepared a checklist of things from your last two submissions, but my son reasoned that, since the problem only happens at slow-speed (city) driving, he could reasonably expect that the car would negotiate the Freeways for a weekend at a campground 90 miles away. So, he packed supplies for the other 9 folks, and took off. The Buick started up and drove nicely.

    For SIX blocks!!! He limped back home, and I found a whole new set of problems. The engine did not want to keep running, so pumping the accelerator was the only way to keep from stalling. Foot off the accelerator = Engine Stalls.

    Aha! My mechanic would only take back the Regal if he could create the problem in his shop with his diagnostic tools connected. Based on my experience, I felt it was now time to tow the car to his shop. But, in an attempt to verify the problem today in my driveway, I turned the key, and . . . the engine fired right away, and I could not make it stall.

    So, my prize Crown Victoria is now "vacationing" with the kids at the Lake, and I'm stuck with a piece of unreliable General Motors Junk!

    I HATE that car!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    >Foot off the accelerator = Engine Stalls.

    My thinking:
    EGR valve sticking open causing too much burned gas to recirculate into the incoming air.

    Fuel pressure dropped after pump warmed up and low pressure means poor vaporization of the injector spray at low rpm and speeding up the air flow helps varporize what fuel is being squirted.

    MAF sensor causes funky problems. Best diagnosis is to have one from a working vehicle and switch the two. Lots of 3800s use the same MAF.

    I understand your frustration and I understand the mechanic wanting the problem to walk in. But I think your problem is a mechanic who doesn't want to recreate the problem by driving the vehicle with proper diagnostic equipment connected.

    Behind this all is the occasional PCM that people will end up replacing as the solution.

    I don't know if you are at all comfortable diagnosing but you can removed a spark plug wire in advance and reconnect it. Then when car doesn't run right, remove the wire and restart the motor and see if you're getting a great spark jumping from a screwdriver left inserted in it and placed near a metal part of motor as a ground. Don't hold the screwdriver while motor is running unless you're familiar with how to do it without getting shocked.

    Fuel pressure needs a gauge. Ask your mechanic for a gauge to duct tape to the windshield and drive until it does it. See what the gas line pressure is when the symptoms start.

    Disconnect the EGR yourself. Follow the wires to the connector. Drive around and see if it acts up. Or tap on it with a large screwdriver handle to vibrate it and make it snap shut through the crud blocking it from moving shut.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bsamstagbsamstag Member Posts: 10
    Many THANKS. My list of things to check is becoming structured, thanks to your patience. When the juices settled down, I will crack the hood on that piece of GM Junk and begin. My area of expertise runs to computers and internet web pages. I stopped being automotively knowledgeable when they took carburators and spark plugs out of the engine compartment.

    What's so ironic is that, of all the cars I've owned in the past 29 years, the Regal is the only one I bought through a dealer. All 3 Crown Vics, as well as the Chevy Malibu and Honda Accord, were purchased from private parties, and were trouble free. Thus, my reluctance to return to a GM dealer for service.

    What a way to spend my retirement!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    A lot depends on the troubleshooting diagnostic flowchart. That should be right down the alley for someone used to computers (remember the TRSIII) and web pages. I did both of those.

    I would have an opinion if I were feeling the motor die to think if it's completely off or not. But one other thing a few people found is the ignition switch. After many years of wear on the contacts, it might be losing contact for the portion that runs the ignition power to the ISC, e.g. Then you turn it off and recycle to make contact again and it's good to go. Not the key cylinder--the ignition switch, which is down near the base of the steering column operated by a link from the lock cylinder at the top.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bsamstagbsamstag Member Posts: 10
    One of my favorite sayings is: I'd rather be lucky than good any day!

    My son dropped off the sick Regal half a block from my mechanic, and picked up the Malibu which was in for service. The following day the mechanic experienced all the problems we have, and had to restart many times before he made it to his shop. Hooking up the diagnostics showed many, manyerror codes being thrown like crazy, pointing to the MAF!!! He claims that the error codes continued to show even with the ignition off.

    Short story ending: After spending almost $900, replacing a few things that didn't need replacing, the Regal runs fine with the MAF replacement ($360.45 total). I tested it on the 405 Freeway and on Sepulveda Blvd returning (in traffic).

    So, I don't need to spend $4,300 on the used SAAB that my son wanted, and I got my prize Ford Crown Victoria back. Many thanks to all those good folks who shared their stories with me. I'm adding mine as another successful conclusion to a harrowing GM problem.

    Bernard Samstag (aka: Sam)
    Culver City, CA
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    Thanks for reporting back that it was the MAF. That will help others who search the discussion for help.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,234
    The stalling occurs upon deceleration at a traffic light or stop sign

    Wish I had seen your post earlier. Same thing happened with my 99 Regal LS. It was the mass airflow sensor.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    Hi All-
    I was driving down the road today on the freeway doing about 80 then all of a sudden my SES light starts flashing and then goes solid.. I guess the flash is to get your attention. So I take it to autozone. She said I had a misfire. First question I changed my plugs about 2 years ago and my wire about a couple of months ago. What would be the most COMMON thing that I should change yet. The light was not the reason I changed my plugs. I was told to switch the little do dad that take hot exhaust from the engine... It build up with carbon... Don't know. Second question. Should Autozone been able to tell me which cylinder misfired? Thank all in advance.
  • rjw_mpwrrjw_mpwr Member Posts: 13
    Hi, i was in china for a few weeks and saw the new Buick Regal. I have to say it is a real good looking car. At first, i could not believe it was a Buick. It is prettier than any of the Buick here in the US. Seriously, if this model is in the US, I will definitely consider it.

    http://www.autoblog.com/tag/Regal/ Here are some pics. It is a shame we won't see it in US.

  • bsamstagbsamstag Member Posts: 10
    After all the problems I've had with my 2000 Buick Regal, I should mention that I lucked into the problem: The MAF sensor! After replacing the Crank Shaft sensor and the Low Speed Idle motor/sensor, I got lucky. Fortunately, the Regal started running really badly as the mechanic drove it into his shop. The computer was throwing error codes like crazy, and they all pointed to the MAF. Replacement @ $250+ solved the problem.
    As my mechanic Bob (and I) says: I'd rather be lucky than good any day!
  • paresh1paresh1 Member Posts: 7
    I just checked the picture. Wow. How much is it in chinese yen converted to U.S dollars. That looks awsome. Thanks for sharing.
  • joe862joe862 Member Posts: 4
    I just got this 1996 regal 6 cylinder. When you idle the fans wont turn on. I bypassed the control switches and can get them to turn on. My question is, is the coolant level sensor the same as the heat sensor that tells the control units to send power to the fans?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    I don't know how they wired those. I can suggest buying a Helm factory service manual for the car if you plan to do much work on it yourself. New helminc.com or find one on Ebay--but be careful because if it's a two volume set, people sell one volume and people think they're buying the whole thing. My 98 leSabre is a 3 volume set and 2003 leSabre is a 2 volume.

    ebay link

    Notice this says book 1 of 2 and book 2 of 2 in the pictures.

    Here's another I found by searching for Lumina rather than Regal. Much cheaper.
    Both books.
    Lumina, regal, cutlass, grand prix

    Do the fans turn on when the AC runs?

    The temperature won't turn them on until 230 degrees or so. I do not know how the sensor is done. I could look in my 98 leSabre book.

    On the leSabre one fan runs at one speed and the other has two speeds. If the car heats further or the pressure in the AC goes high then the high speed fan turns on faster. So your really need the wiring diagram for how yours is set up.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bobakamarvbobakamarv Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Buick Regal that has begun to have intermittent problems starting. All of the instrument panels light up, the radio works, heating/cooling systems are operating, but sometimes when I try to start the car nothing happens. I had a mechanic check the car out and the battery was fine and the terminals were corroded, but he cleaned them and that did not correct the problem. Any ideas, was thinking that it may be the starter, but don't want to spend the money to fix that if it's not really the issue?
  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    Okay I think my head gasket went on my Buick Regal. It is a 96 with 153000 miles. I think it is also hydro locked. The starter will engage but will not spin the fly wheel. My radiator reserve is empty with no clue of the location. Fletchers told me 10hrs Labor @ 90/hr Seeing the vehicle is worth less then the repair, how involved is it? Is it just a matter of staying organized?Secondly I was told sometime that it will ruin the engine. In that case what am I looking for as far as damage?
    Thank you in advance for any help
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    Is this a 3800 motor? Series II? The plastic upper intake may have leaked through the vertical tube (plastic) that the EGR gases go through to be mixed with the incoming air. The plastic gets crystallized and coolant that goes through upper intake from lower metal intake and then turns horizontal and flows through the throttle body to warm it in winter leaks into the air intake stream and into the cylinders. Was the car missing some before it hydrolocked?

    Take out the 6 spark plugs and label them as to which cylinder. If they have a white coating that may be from coolant burning. Then crank motor and watch to see which cylinders have coolant coming out with the upstroke of the piston.

    Also under the lower intake manifold there are gaskets that seal around the coolant openings that go into the heads. These may have deteriorated if the original coolant was DexCool (I don't think it was). These can leak and more commonly hydrolock than the leak in the upper at the EGR tube does.

    Upper intake manifold by Dorman about $150. Lower intake gaskets between lower and cylinder heads about $50 from GM--use the ones that are metal framed in aluminum, not the originals.

    Head gasket failures are really infrequent on 3800s (by GM). If it's the Series II style 3800, most likely you have a leak as described. If coolant ran low and car overheated, then you may have a head that's been damaged from the abuse.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mdm1418mdm1418 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I was wondering if anyone could educate me a little. I have a 1983 buick regal limited and was wondering what v8 would bolt in. I loath the sight of a 305 and refuse to even consider putting that sin of a motor in my car. A close relative of mine has a 283 out of a 63 truck that has been rebuilt and is complete and ready to go in. Is this something that I could expect to drop $2,000 on.
  • buickregal12buickregal12 Member Posts: 5
    my 98 buick regal has alot of problems need help!!!!!! my abs brake sensor light is on and brake light will go on and off. low coolant will stay on. assuming thats the thermostat. check engine light. ??? need a supercharger rebuilding kit. coupler in there is goin out. tranny is the most of my issues tho. i seem to have every problem people are talkin about. it shifts hard at about 40-50 and so on. also it willl shut off on me in the blue? wtf :cry:
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,234
    I believe the low coolant light remaining on indicates a faulty sensor, which may be in the coolant recovery tank. Mine has been doing the same thing for awhile (will be lit for a month, then hit a bump in the road and go off) . As long as you aren't losing coolant or overheating should be okay.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • paresh1paresh1 Member Posts: 7
    I have 1996 Buick regal. Ok look at GM bullitin, GM has issue with coolent system because 3800 series engine and heating issue. Since engine heats, it start effecting cooling system too. By brother had hydrolock, when coolent went leaking into the engine head gasket and engine locked up.

    My car had issue where one of plastic elbow for coolent circuation cracked and lost lots of coolent, cost me 500.00 to fix the issue.

    Then like your problem, coolent sensor was showing low coolent and GM deler was not able to disnose the issue. Got tired of, I changed the sensor my self and also changed the radiator cap also. Buy GM part, do not buy after market part. That revolved the issue for two years and now the low coolent sensor light is back on.

    Engine light On, yes I have the same issue. I changed the Vaccume switch and the solonoid 5 years ago and now I have the same issue.

    I took it ot the dealer the tech say that it is vaccume switch, then I called the service manager to ask why the switch failed again. He said it could be solonoid too.

    So bottom line is, the dealer technician does not know 100% if the issue is Vaccume swicth or teh solonoid. I have scanner at home, the code I get for the faul is P0441.

    So I have given up for the incompinent GM dealer tech. I will change then both and see if that fixes the problem.

    That is all I have to say. Good luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    >My car had issue where one of plastic elbow for coolent circuation cracked and lost lots of coolent, cost me 500.00 to fix the issue.

    Sounds like you got taken if this actually happened. The coolant elbows are available from Dorman, often on the HELP rack at auto stores, for $5 or less for both along with the o-rings. About 1 hour labor to remove the tensioner and its bracket: $80. So $85 should have fixed it!!! Take a look at your bill to see what else they hosed you for!!!

    >By brother had hydrolock, when coolent went leaking into the engine head gasket and engine locked up.

    If the motor had hydrolock due to coolant leaking into cylinder (happens on lots of cars especially with head gasket leaks), that meant he wasn't checking his coolant level regularly, say weekly. The gaskets don't start leaking overnight!!! So this was preventable by checking your car for proper fluid levels, both in the coolant reservoir and inside the radiator.

    This sounds to me like blaming the car for owner neglect and the problems it can cause.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,234
    Then like your problem, coolent sensor was showing low coolent and GM deler was not able to disnose the issue. Got tired of, I changed the sensor my self

    How do you change the sensor? If it is cheap and easy I'll do it myself, otherwise I'll just live with it.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • blkwashere2001blkwashere2001 Member Posts: 1
    I am in desperate need of a diagram for a 92 buick regal steering column or instructions on how to take it apart. It is my daughters car and she needs it running ASAP in order to get back and forth to work and to get her five year old back and forth to school. The key would not turn in the ignition stranding the vehicle 150 miles from home. Thus a "friend" tried to "disengage" the ignition but it seems that something may be broken off inside. We have no manual and have tried to locate one to no avail. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. :cry:
  • havenshavens Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Buick regal driver window goes down ignition is turned on.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    Without an exact diagram of the electrical wiring for that model, one of two things may be happening. The power windows may be controlled by a small control that operates the windows at all 4 doors and operates the door locks as well. Do the others all respond correctly?

    If not, the problem may be that actual control box has failed. On leSabres and other H-body cars, it's inside the driver's door. Requires removing the door panel covering the interior.

    The other possibility is a stuck window switch. Does the window go up and down in response to the window switch, once it has done that down cycle when key is turned on? Does it do the same thing in ACC as it does in the ON position?

    The contacts inside the window switch may have corroded or the wires below that tell the control box what you are requesting may be shorted under the switch. Try moving the switch a lot both directions to make the contacts rub and clean.

    A cure would be to remove the breaker or the fuse for the power windows to keep it from cycling down until you can repair it.

    Good luck.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ezingezing Member Posts: 1
    The problems on my 1991 started around 30K. The alternators go out, The brake calipers have a defective bolt. After about 70 K the planned obselence things start to give you door lock, electric window, electric auntenna, heater core hose failures. They there is the fun with gasket leaks. Get ready for the transmission to have to be replaced. Yep after 105K about $8000 has been spent on repairs.
  • jay_mjay_m Member Posts: 8
    Hmm- I must be so lucky...

    Two Centurys- an '89 and a '93. Both had the 3300 motors.
    New alternators at about 100k, water pump at 120k.
    Brakes from time to time- rear drums didn't hold up all that well, front disks did pretty well.
    Never had problems with calipers (slides or bolts)
    Never had probs with power windows, seats, or trans. (except vacuum modulator on '94). A/C compressor died on the 89 at 150k or so. Paint peeling, CV joints were getting rough, I sold it. It ran for years after that, to my knowledge. I sold the 93 cheap with 150-160k when I got my 03 Regal. It was a retired rentacar with 22k miles.
    The 03 now has 190k miles with original almost everything. (changed cat converter and O2 sensor, and headlight high beam switch)
    Am on second set of rear brake pads, about fourth set of front pads. Nest brake job I'll replace the factory rotors, they're getting pretty worn.
    Planned obsolescence? I don't think so.
  • mnmkyfmnmkyf Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my '03. Replaced the module (switch) twice. Covered under warranty the first time, don't remember the cost the second time. GM is aware of this and ignition problems, but won't stand behind their product.
  • abutcherabutcher Member Posts: 33
    bobakamarv, I would replace the starter cable.
  • abutcherabutcher Member Posts: 33
    I have a 2001 Regal and the left rear door window swith will not operate the window up or down. I can put it up or down with the driver switch.

    I swapped the switch with the right rear switch and the switch works on the right door, and the right door switch still does not operate the left rear window, so the switch is not the problem either.

    Any suggestions?
  • ronbuick91ronbuick91 Member Posts: 4
    Hello everyone, I have a problem with a 1991 Buick regal with the 3.8. The car will start once every few days and run for 5 to 7 minutes then shut off with no sputtering or anything and will not restart for another day or two.

    The car has 81k on it and the engine has been replaced with a 91 LeSaber 3.8 with the same approximant mileage. The car ran fine until the little magnet on the camshaft gear fell off. As I did not need the car just then, I left it sit for about 6 – 8 months before repairing it. When I replaced the magnet, I also lifted the engine up enough to remove the oil pan so I could repair a dent and replace the leaking pan gasket. Once it was back together, it ran fine…. for a while. After about 3 weeks, it started to shut off occasionally while driving. It would restart easily. The problem progressed gradually until about 3 months later when I did not trust it to even leave the yard. I tried to correct the problem as it continued to get worse and worse, now, I’m out of ideas.

    I know that the problem seems to be that the injectors are shutting down. When it shuts off and I try to restart it, the plugs are dry even after several minutes of spinning the starter. Sometimes, but not always, when it shuts off the charcoal canister purge valve is clicking like crazy. I also noticed that rarely the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator to the intake manifold block is collapsed. It used to run for a bit if I sprayed it with starting fluid but sputtered and staled out in a short time. I should mention that there are never any error codes when this happens and the check engine light does work. On occasion when it is running and I’m in the car, it seems that if I’m giving it gas, it runs a little longer than if I let it sit and idle but I’m not real sure that this is the case.

    So far I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure relay, fuel pressure regulator, computer, charcoal canister purge valve and the mass air flow sensor. Nothing has seemed to make any difference. I’ve checked the gas cap and the vacuum hoses from the purge valve to the tank and there is no blockage. There are no vacuum leaks either.

    I’ve been working on cars for nearly 30 years and this has me totally stumped. I may have tried a few other minor things or replaced other minor parts but what I have listed is all I can think of currently. I’m thinking I have an electrical or vacuum problem. I’m also thinking of having a Buick bonfire in the near future. Any help or thoughts on this problem would be greatly appreciated. I’m nearly ready to just get rid of the car and would have by now but it is in excellent shape and I never thought I would have put so much money into it and have the problem just get worse. Thank you.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    You need to verify if it's electronic. Spark? Injectors?

    Crankshaft position sensor would be my thinking. Lots of people have had trouble.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ronbuick91ronbuick91 Member Posts: 4
    How would I go about this, the car has spark and I doubt all 6 injectors would fail at the exact same time only to work the next day for another 5 minutes. Would the crankshaft sensor fail intermitantly like that? When this all started I has also replaced the control modual under the coil pack thinking it might be faulty and sending some kind of shut down signal to the ECM
  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    So I replaced my heads after a hydro lock. Hydro lock happened after engine was shut off. Ended up having to replace my TPS sensor as well... My mistake I installed it wrong. Next I replaced my o2 sensor because I got I think it was an 1133 code. That fixed my stalling after 5 minuts of running problem. Now I am getting a code I haven't read it yet... Anyway when I am on the freeway going around 70 add a little gas it sputter till I get up to crusing speed again. Any ideas. I cannot the engine sounds fairly good. Not black smoke and no eating of fluids although it seems to be running a little hot so I think I may have a lean conditions I have a feeling the code will be o2 again But will post as soon as I find out. Just wanted to get this out there. I am thinking of renting a fuel pressure tester. Let me know your thoughts.

    *Added info... Just got the code. P0171 on bank 1 so... My understanding of that is that is on cyl 1 or plug 1? No other codes.. Code just be a plugged injector but that would cause a misfire right? In case you are wondering this is a 96 buick regal 3800 series engine.
  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    I didn't see any of the other threads, but your computer is not throwing any codes? Have you done a pressure test on your fuel?
  • ronbuick91ronbuick91 Member Posts: 4
    Correct, computer is not throwing a single code. I had a remanfactured ECM in it and just for kicks I went and pulled another ECM out of a salvage yard, car does the darn thing. After it shut down recently, I pulled the fuel pressure regulator and there was gas in the rail under the regulator. I replaced the regulator with a known good one and the car would still not restart. Its been about 2 days now so I'm thinking of going out and starting it again this time being sure to hold the gas pedal down to maintain a very fast idel. I suspect that if it runs longer than 5 to 7 min without shutting off, it will no doubt die as soon as I release the gas. Will post the results.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,998
    You've replaced the fuel pump. But I'd rent or borrow at a local Autozone a fuel pressure gauge and install it to watch what happens while the car is running (when it feels like starting or when cranking).

    I'd replace the collapsing vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.

    I'd connect a little light bulb, the little marker bulbs with two wires for contacts, into the injector on one of the cylinders while cranking when it won't start. See if you're getting a good flash with each pulse of the injector.

    Related to that is the main computer. I would think about replacing it or switching if you know someone with a running version of your car.

    But the clicking after the car shuts off sometimes might be a sign of low battery voltage or a poor connection. Is the battery fully charged? Are connections clean?

    Have you taken off a plug wire and put a spark plug on grounded to the engine and looked at the spark while it's cranking?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    Just curious have you done a fuel pressure test? I am dealing with a lean condition on mine and I have no idea at this point what it might be. I just took my fuel rail out and blew out the injector. Next I am going to do a fuel pressure test. only thing on mine I can think of at this point is fuel pressure regulator.Just curious and I don't work on cars but if I am not mistaken you can by obd which hook into the computers and have advanced diagnostics which can tell you what different things are doing... It may help you to do that. Let me know what it was in the end.
  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    I recently lost all my water in the engine. So instead of just replaceing one thing I took it down to the heads. Had the heads milled and a valve job done. I replaced the manifold gasket as well as the entire plenum. I later found out the plenum is a real issue in these vehicles. Anyway it is running but bank 1 is running a lean condition. Any ideas? I am aiming towards injectors but don't want to pay for new one unless I am sure. I blew the injectors out today but unsure if that will really do anything as it is a sealed unit well until voltage is applied. At least it appears to be a sealed unit. Please any suggestions are welcome. One thing on start up it "shutters" and sputters and on the frreeway around 70 when applying gas it bogs down. This is a 96 buick reagle 3.8. Replaced O2 sensors as well as the throttle position sensor. Thanks in advance
  • ronbuick91ronbuick91 Member Posts: 4
    edited April 2010
    "I'd replace the collapsing vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. "
    All vacuum lines and the fuel pressure regulator have been replaced

    "I'd connect a little light bulb, the little marker bulbs with two wires for contacts, into the injector on one of the cylinders while cranking when it won't start. See if you're getting a good flash with each pulse of the injector. "
    This I have not tried and will give it a go.

    " Related to that is the main computer. I would think about replacing it or switching if you know someone with a running version of your car. "
    Computer has been replaced twice. Once with a rebuild one and with one from a known running car, no difference.

    The car does have spark while it is cranking, just no fuel. I'll try to other items you mentioned and report back, thankyou
    I've replaced the Engine Control Computer twice now with no difference in the problem and still no error codes displayed.

    "But the clicking after the car shuts off sometimes might be a sign of low battery voltage or a poor connection. Is the battery fully charged? Are connections clean?"
    Battery is fully charged and about 1 year old. It will continue to crank the car for at least 20 min or more after the car shuts down.
  • outatimeoutatime Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    i have a 98 buick regal gs, recently began smelling coolant in the cabin, regardless of the heater/ac control settings. No detectable smell out side of car, no visible leak or pooling under car, no noticeable loss of coolant over time, no wet carpet or visible leaking into the cabin. im stumped!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,234
    Dealership quoted me a price of $189 for plugs and recalibration of something. Back plugs look to be a little tight to get to.Prrce seems pretty steep. Any thoughts?
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    Okay got a little problem with my car. Okay I had a problem with my lower intake seal as I guess everyone has. So as I was that deep in the engine I went ahead and had a head and valve job. The heads passed. Put it all back together. Went about 30 miles received a misfire on Cylinder 5. Now hundred miles later it is Sending smoke out the tail pipe. It appears to be a white smoke. Goes into the air. Here is the other thing... It starts fine and idles fine until it starts to gain pressure. Then it starts surging... 2500 Rpm 500rpm up and down then eventually stalls. Wondering if my Head gasket had a failure again.. Any ideas? any good way to test? :sick:
  • sprint4cesprint4ce Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 1992 Buick Regal with the 3.8 motor which has a slight hesitation at idle, it will run for awhile and then shut down. It smells rich of fuel and when you pull the plugs they are wet. The fuel pressure test good at 41psi, when ohming out the coils they seem all consistant at .05ohms. Which I cant see all three of them going bad at the same time. The ignition module, Tps sensor, o2 sensor, Knock sensor, camshaft position sensor, plugs, and plug wires have all been replaced with new. If you leave it sit for awhile and go back, it will start back up and then have the same symptoms. When putting in the new plugs and wires, I verified that the plugs were gapped correctly and then sparking good by leaning one on the side of the block. They worked good for a bit and then fouled again. No codes have been thrown either on the obd 1. I sprayed some fluid around upper intake manifold to see if the I could catch some type of vaccum leak or gasket failure to no luck,,,Upper intake manifold is aluminum and I dont believe these are the ones in question for gasket and manifold failure........ANY HELP WOULD GREATLY BE APPRECIATED!!!!
  • sprint4cesprint4ce Member Posts: 2
    I have just recently had a post similar to yours before reading this,,,,I have almost identical problems but noticed my plugs are wet....Just wondering if you figured out your problem yet?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Erwisneki,
    I apologize that you are experiencing concerns with your vehicle. Unfortunately, I cannot diagnose your vehicle. However we are here if you have any questions, or if you need a dealer referral. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • tvollytvolly Member Posts: 2
    I have just paid $250 to have one spark plug changed it failed on the road. I would like to change out the rest myself as the mechanic wants another 250 to replace them as a retiree that a lot of cash. Could you good people out there give me guidence and any traps that there may be
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