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Comments
1.) two different additives getting along together
2.) having removed another 1/4 to 1/3 of the slipery gear oil to make room for the extra bottle of friction additive.
..
I just wanted to make a point that the cost of the two quarts of oil is so low and easy to install that any slight chance of not having the right oil in there is worth changing it.
..
I do not think that synthetic 75W90 is going to hurt the rear differential, but I do think that the thicker 80W140 Redline I used will protect my rear diff better than 75W90 especially for towing. I also want to make the limited slip clutch plates last as long as the vehicle so if the thicker oil is specified then I will use it.
Regarding percentage of LSD additive to amount of gear oil used, the Trooper requires 3.2 quarts, so I don't see where replacing 4 oz. of oil with additive means that 1/4th to 1/3rd of the oil is being replaced, even accounting for the the amount of additive already in Mobil 1.
As far as cost goes, the 4 quarts of Mobil 1 75W-90 at Autozone went for about $7. each. The GM additive costs $9.95 for 4 oz. So, I have about $40. invested.
I'm not that worried about the truck having been driven 50-100 miles while a quart low; that does not seem like a major problem. But does driving while the oil filler cap is off do anything bad?
Here is a quote from the Mobil 1 site - Recommended for many limited slip applications. For certain high level LS applications, additional limited slip additive may be required if axle chatter is observed. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_75W-- 140_SyntheticGearLubricant.asp
Here is a quote from the Amsoil site - AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lubes do not require the use of this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and if chatter is noticed, the addition of AMSOIL Slip-Lock will eliminate it. http://www.amsoil.com/products/ada.htm
I always clean my engines. Never had one single electrical problem. Just don't blast the areas where the electronics are ie:fuse box, etc. Use low pressure to clean around these areas.
G/luck
Joel
A technician from Mobil 1 said that would be fine.
I notice a fair amount of water coming out of exhaust on startup, so I always have to allow for some idle time to protect the exhaust with my commute being so short.
I am getting really poor mileage 10-11 MPG around town, but I attribute that to a very short commute, roof rack, larger tires, and additional weight from Bullbar. If I remove the roof rack I have gotten just over 17 on the highway, so I assume it is just the way it is.
Posted by Ryan on September 27, 03 at 09:04:06:
Well, its a done deal with one scary moment.
First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.
I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake and place it above the TB.
So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1, and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in the butterfly to let it air out.
Next I removed the EGR, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the EGR itself. I sprayed down the inside of the EGR and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the EGR tube and the hole next to it, and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the EGR sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.
Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing. I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10 seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light! NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!
read the rest in SUV COM / ISUZU TECH...
buttom line don't spray to much cleaner but more use right size brashes and rags instead.
My own opinion I would not do it this stuff unless
I have bad code pointed to EGR, or my mpg really suck, or my oil consumpsion very high(1q pre 500mi).
-Ryan
Thanks a lot
2K driver window track replacement(warranty item)
6K short block replacement(warranty item)
This was to fix my oil consumption, but it did not work.
15K muffler replacement due to rattle(warranty item)
22K heater fan motor due to rattle(warranty item)
40K battery replacement
48K new tires Bridgestone Dueller AT 255-70's
60K fan belt, pcv valve & fuel filter
78K brake pads
82K OME springs, Rancho shocks
83K front/rear diff. & transfer case fluid change
85K new tires Cooper SST 285-75's
86K spark plugs & new EGR valve
88K battery replacement Optima red label
109K front/rear diff. & transfer case fluid change,fan belt,pcv valve & fuel filter, manual trans. fluid change
110K coolant fluid change, timing belt, water pump, repack front wheel bearings
Other than the 1st year repairs covered under warranty, all additional cost associated with my Trooper have been either upgrades (never required but always fun!!) or routine maintenance. Every one of my upgrades and most of the maintenance items were the result of great advice and input from this discussion group.
I would love to compare my list with others on this board to identify common patterns or occurrences with our Troopers.
Appreciate your postings, this discussion group has been a great help.
Chris
I'm doing the EGR cleaning as part of a real attempt to reduce oil consumption. The other stuff (add cleaner to fuel, add cleaner to oil, do oil change, and replace PCV valve) I will do myself.
I also don't remember anybody needing a new valve. Well at least those who asked for or did a cleaning themsleves have reported cleaning the valve. On the other hand, a few people that went into a shop and said "fix it" have been sold a new EGR. Whether they truly needed one is of course the question.
Make sure the shop pays particular attention to the tubing. Some DIYers have reported using an entire can of carb cleaner to do the job.
It sounds like you have a good overall oil reduction plan, well as good as you can do short of replacing the rings. Good luck.
He did a great job...CEL light is off, engine is noticeably peppier, and mileage seems a tad better. I don't plan to use dealer again under any circumstances if I can avoid it.
What dealer is it at? Cause I have a feeling my local one will give me a problem with mine.
-mike
What's the deal with the trans? I haven't really seen any issues with the GM 4L30E having issues elsewhere. What is your take on it? Is there a longevity problem with the trans, or do you feel it is hard usage that caused this?
What can you tell the rest of us to keep us from having similar problems. Should we be flushing the tranny more often?, not at all? using synthetic?, adding a cooler? Any and all theories and observations would be appreciated.
-mike
Misfire Cylinder 1 (this was after I tried to change the plugs, and ripped a boot, and then replaced the coil and boot from st. charles)
Cats
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
When I get back from Virginia, I'll bring it in to get the tranny done, but I'm not too hopeful, I may bring it to your dealer Beer, since they seem to be stand up folks. How far down the shore are they?
-mike
Interesting that in regards to the hood latch, they said "obviously this has been in a front end collision?" I don't know how they came to that decision? There is no damage...all that happened was that when I went to open the hood to check wiper fluid on a snowy day, the latch just didn't work. I hope there aren't new dents in the front end.
They say the Cats are due to the Misfire, which is not the case cause the cats were having a problem before I meddled with the plugs which led to the misfire. So they'll fix the coil pack and then when I get the CEL again I'll bring it back to them and have them do the cats...
-mike
"I was called by NHTSA and I was told to expect the fuel sending units on 98-99 Rodeo to be recalled by Isuzu. They said expect 6-8 weeks."