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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,778
    That old TDMA Nokia is looking better and better..

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  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    >That old TDMA Nokia is looking better and better..

    Hey, you're off topic!! I might have to report you to the Host. ;)
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    That's a pretty sweet deal from your dealer. I ditto Shirpo's advice as I recently purchased an '03 330ci and am having Blizzaks w/new wheels mounted on it tomorrow. Purchased from tirerack.com and the total should run me just over a grand. Being from chicago, and having recently been hit with snow on thursday, driving the beemer was not even an option without the 'snow shoes' and currently sporting the OEM 18" Michelin Sport tires obviously made for summer.

    Since my dealer is not doing the service and therefore not storing the tires, do you or Shirpo have any recommendation on storage? A buddy is letting me use his garage, so can I just stack them, maybe 2 high? Does that damage/unbalance/etc. the tires? :confuse:
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,778
    I stack mine four high... No problems that I can see.. Most advice that I read, says the biggest issue, is to put something between the tires and the concrete floor (cardboard), and to keep them out of direct light..

    regards,
    kyfdx
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  • ventureventure Member Posts: 3,168
    I stack mine 4 high too and place cardboard under the bottom one. I just use a few of the round pieces tirerack shipped the tires/wheels with.

    Since you ordered from tirerack.com you should have about a gazillion of those round things sitting around.

    2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport

  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Sounds good guys, thanks for the advice! By the way...LOVE the Blizzaks!! Phenomenal!!
  • 328i328i Member Posts: 1
    I am new and not sure how to post. I am having issues with my both my Xenon lamps blinking or turning off and on/ flashing. I took the car to a dealership where they say they saw what it was doing but the computer download didn't have a code saying what the problem is. They checked the connections and everything looked good. I hear it is very expensive to replace the igniters and would like to find out what the problem is before paying hundreds of dollars to find the problem. I would prefer to do it myself because of the amount of dollars they are requiring for labor these days. Does anyone know what my problem is? Ballasts, igniters, fuses?
  • ventureventure Member Posts: 3,168
    I'm impressed with my Michelin X-ice too. It finally snowed here in PA for the last few days.

    Amazing!

    2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport

  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Backstory: Recently I purchased a used 2003 330ci with the Sport Package (18" wheels). Since the snow has now graced our lovely city with its presence I switched out my wheels/tires to 17" Blizzaks (great by the way!).

    Problem(?): Upon switching out the tires I noticed that 3 of the tires were 225/40ZR18 and 1 of the tires was 255/35/ZR18. I'm assuming that whoever had the car before me got a flat and when replacing the tire, just simply looked at one of them and got it replaced. Per the manual/door panel containing tire information the front should be 225/40ZR18 and the rear 255/35/ZR18.

    Question: Will driving with the set above make THAT much of a difference, or should I invest in another 255/35/ZR18 to even things out come springtime?

    Thanks in advance!! :shades:
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,778
    Does your car have an 18" spare? My guess is that third 225/40-18 is the spare... The spare is always the smaller size, so it will fit on the front or the back..

    If not, I'd want the same size on both rear tires..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • toughtedtoughted Member Posts: 1
    I have a 3 year old 320d and I am concerned that the steering wheel does not sit straight with the front wheels (some 3-5 degrees out). I've had the steering alignment checked and rechecked, changed the front tyres and had the brakes and all steering geometry, ball joints etc checked and nobody can give me a satisfactory answer as to why the steering seems out. Has anybody experienced the same problem and is there a cure??
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Are you sure that the car isn't reacting to the camber of the road? If that's not the case, any alignment tech should be able to center the wheel with half his brain tied behind his back; it only requires adjusting the tie rod ends.
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Nope. The spare is 17"....I agree, I think I'll end up going with a new rear tire come spring.
  • jajjaj Member Posts: 55
    Not according to my dealership. See post #2446.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Not according to my dealership

    So? It sounds like all your dealer did was reorient the wheel relative to the steering column/shaft. Yes, it may be heretical, but did it ever occur to you that your dealer may be wrong?
  • jajjaj Member Posts: 55
    Yes, it most certainly did; and I wasn't disputing your statement.
  • nbbnbb Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2001 325CiC with Step transmission. Lately, when I shift from Neutral to Drive I have to move the shifter a little to the left. Otherwise it seems to hit something and stop after Neutral.

    I raised the trim around the shifter and window switches for a look. I found that when you shift to Drive, a metal tang slides into a plastic slot. The tang holds the shifter steady as you shift left towards Sport mode. for some reason the tang does not line up exactly with the slot anymore, so I have to move the shifter slightly to line it up and slide it in. Has this happened to anyone? Any idea on a fix?
  • 330xi2005330xi2005 Member Posts: 7
    The other day I did a U-turn in my car and the next thing I know, my left front tire is not moving. Apparently, my tire axle was broken. The dealership has stated that the damage will not be covered under warrenty because they think it is from driving over a pothole or curb, bending the arm,and then severing during the u-turn. If that was the case wouldn't my rim or tire be damaged before the axle being bent? Any thoughts on what could have caused this problem? Has anyone experienced this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like you need to harass the dealer some more or call the BBB for an arbitration. You really can't break an axle joint from a pothole and have no tire or rim damage, sorry. Bad excuse. Ask the dealer to try again. More likely the CV joint just fell apart for some reason.

    Of course I haven't seen the damage or what actually broke---I'm just going by what you say. I presume from your user name that this is indeed an AWD vehicle.
  • 330xi2005330xi2005 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your reply. Yes, I just spoke with the dealer and it looks like they will be repairing it under warranty. The advisor agreed that it was something unusual and it was in the "grey" area for billing. Although it is a bit strange, I have less than 10,000 miles on my 330xi. I will be sure to get the "scoop" when I pick up my car.
  • sunilbsunilb Member Posts: 407
    this morning, as I pulled out of my driveway, both the DSC and [brake] light came on (indicating that the DSC is fully off)... I pulled over, shut the car down and restarted. Everything back to normal.

    Is this anything to worry about? (ie, the DSC was fully off though I didn't hold the button down at all).
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Was the ABS light on? If so, it's probably a wheel speed sensor. My E39 had the same intemittent problem. The lights always went off after a couple of start/stop cycles so I never bothered with fixing it.
  • sunilbsunilb Member Posts: 407
    No ABS light, just the other two. Doesn't seem like too much to worry about.
  • dave2171dave2171 Member Posts: 2
    Problem fixed...
    The accident must have jarred the lamp sockets enough to indicate the phathom warning in my interior dash system.
    Per your suggestion, I replaced the lamps and placed a thin coat of the dielectric grease. IT WORKED!
    Thank you.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'm glad it worked!
  • macmurdomacmurdo Member Posts: 31
    Hi everyone... I am the owner of a '92 318i convertible, bought 2 years ago at 92K and now at 99K. Although there were a few mechanical issues that I had to tend to, the one thing that bothered me most, once I really had the car a while, was the fit of the convertible top.

    Now, this top looks in great shape, even has the BMW logo on the inside, but it just doesn't fit right. In fact, it looks like it shrunk!? The very back edge is supposed to take a turn down, towards the trunk but in my case, it actually turns up, so it acts like a gutter in the rain, and generally looks bad!

    My questions are: a) is there anyone out there with experience who knows how to adjust this to make it look/fit correctly?? b) is that possible? c) if not, where does one go (I don't really want to talk dealer) to look into getting a new top + installation??

    In the West Chester, PA area... any help/suggestions are appreciated.
  • sheepdgsheepdg Member Posts: 12
    How about an auto interior shop?

    They normally handle seats,carpets, leather work, and convertible tops. Some vary in quality. I'd ask your BMW Service Manager for his recommendation for a quality shop in your area.
  • k2hk2h Member Posts: 7
    I have 2003 330Ci convertible and my tires had blown out a few times. Does BMW have a problem with tires wearing prematurely? Also my right side window doesnt close up when I "one touch close" it. is that problem with the window electrical?
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Just wondering what the forums thoughts were about picking up the 6yr/100,000 mi. extended service coverage? I have an '03 330ci that I purchased used and so I figured that it would be a good idea to make my service "worry free" by purchasing the extended service plan...I'm not talking about the warranty...just the service plan. Any thoughts? They are quoting me around $1200.

    Thanks!!
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Just to clarify, this is the one that covers the brakes, oil changes, etc. Speaking of which, is their an on-dash indicator that comes on when the brakes need to be changed? I am starting to hear a high squeak when I brake, but was told if I go to have the pads changed before the 'indicator' that I'd have to pay for them?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,778
    A lot of it depends on the current mileage, and how many miles you plan on driving it... If you'll hit the 60K service, and hopefully, the 75K interval... then it will probably pay for itself...

    The only problem? If you are taking your car to the dealer for "free" service, then what happens when you need a repair? Then you are paying dealer prices, for something that you may have taken to an independent.

    If you know you are going to use dealer service, then there isn't much to debate.... buy the plan..

    regards,
    kyfdx
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  • amiramir Member Posts: 115
    i have a 2006 330i without the bmw alarm.i wana know that is panic mode for the remote only possible if i have the alarm? because its not working. and also in the owners manual it says that i can choose b/w flashing parking lamps or a chrip sound+ flashing lamps while locking and un locking, but i havent been able to find out how the chrip sound will work. is that also part of the alarm system
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,778
    The "chirp" is only available if you have the optional alarm... The chirp comes from the included siren...

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  • rlevinerlevine Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2001 E46 Convertible and intermittently (seems like on days that are particularly hot or cold) I cannot open my passenger door. I try the remote or the central locking button, but I cannot open it. It seems like after I drive the car for a few minutes (long enough to get to the nearest BMW dealer), the problem goes away. Any ideas?
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Good point about the 'free' service as I've gone through that before with other dealers of other cars in the past. To answer your question I've got 22,000 on the car now and it's an '03...so I figure that brakes will be coming up sooner than later and that alone will probably pay for itself if I buy the plan. Speaking of brakes, is there an on dash indicator for those, or just the usual high pitch indicator from the brakes themselves? I just had an Inspection I done and they didn't report any issues with the pads....I think I had 4mm on the backs and 6mm left on the fronts....although I am starting to hear a squeak but figured it was from the cold weather here in chicago.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,778
    Their is an indicator on the dash for brake pad wear.. When my car went in for the 30K inspection, they changed my front pads/rotors, even though the light wasn't on.. I guess they really do an inspection!!

    If you have an '03, I'd wait until closer to the 4 year expiration of the current plan... You'll be able to judge your needs better at that point, and if they've already replaced the brakes by then, you may decide it is not worth it...

    If you aren't going to make it to the 60K Inspection II by the expiration of the extended plan, then I wouldn't buy it....

    And... shop around... you should be able to buy the plan for $995.

    regards,
    kyfdx
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  • eddie20eddie20 Member Posts: 2
    I'm in the market for a 2002-2003 Audi 3.0 Avant or a BMW 325it. I like the vehicles for different reasons, but my main concern is everyday driving and long term reliability. They are both great vehicles, but is one better all around for the money and the long term?

    Thanks
  • jedi1977jedi1977 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for the heads up on the break pad wear indicator and the advice on the service plan. With the miles I put on the car I should hit 60K before the plan would expire in '09 (I usually put around 15K a year). Thanks for the head's up on the plan price too. Happy Holidays!
  • bakedflounderbakedflounder Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I just bought an '01 325i with only 32k miles on it. I'm having issues with the moonroof closing entirely. When I use the one touch switch, (then release)it closes only half way. (It really goes 3/4 of the way, then retracts, as if it's path were blocked).

    But when I hold the button, it closes all the way. Anyone had an issue with this?
  • almostbrokealmostbroke Member Posts: 1
    What did you ever find out about the "misfire"? I think I may have a simular problem. I own a 1999 323CI, whenever I am in traffic for a while, my car starts to for lack of better words, shake or vibrate. I feel like I am sitting in the middle of a blender. I took it in and they couldn't figure out the problem after trying $1200 worth of stuff. But, if did quit for a while. However, :confuse: I just made a trip yesterday and it started again and the check engine light came on. Do you think it is still safe to drive the 500 miles back home?? Has anyone has this problem before??
    Thanks,
  • krahulikkrahulik Member Posts: 2
    Season's Greetings, all. I returned from a one-month vacation to find my battery dead on my 2000 3 series. I put a jumper battery on and the lights, etc. work when the jumper is attached but the car will not turn over. All I hear are a few clicks....starter? electrical immobilizer problem? ????? any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
    thank you! kacie
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You mean a rapid series of a few clicks?

    I'd say your battery is totally dead and even a jumper battery might not be enough. You should put your battery on an overnight charger, clean up the cable terminals and see how that works. You shouldn't really jump a totally dead battery (can explode in rare instances) and you should never try to charge a totally dead battery with your car's alternator (overworks your alternator and leads to premature failure of same).

    If the battery is good and fully charged and you get ONE click each time you turn the key, then I'd say you have a starter or starter solenoid problem or bad battery cables.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    I/they never did find the problem. Fortunately, it hasn't resurfaced and I actually forgot all about it. Sorry I can't be of any help...
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Sounds like your battery is just flat-out dead.... That is very likely the case if the car is 5-6 years old, and if you were gone for a month without using it (especially if you live in a colder climate). Is it the original battery? If so, it looks like it's time for a replacement.
  • krahulikkrahulik Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for replying! I am stuck at my parent's house until it starts, which is not a bad place to be but....The first thing I did was attach an exterior charger to the battery. Then I did try to jump it. I hope I didn't ruin the alternator in trying to jump it. The first thing I heard was three quick clicks. then when I tried to turn it over again, three quick clicks. Then I tried once more and down to one quick click per turn of the key. happy holidays!
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    If a battery is totally dead, then a jump box or car-to-car jump won't work...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Needs an overnight charge on a trickle charger. A "quick charge" on a completely dead battery is not a good idea.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    If you haven't been checking the electrolyte level every six months or so then the factory battery is almost certainly dead and gone. I got over ten years of service out of my last two OEM BMW batteries by keepingthelevels topped up. That said, I would NOT buy a BMW replacement battery, as it seems that they lack the endurance of the OEM batteries. I suggest replacing it with an Interstate MTP-91. Just make sure that the shop includes the adapter kit which allows the battery vent tube to be connected to the car's vent hose.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "You shouldn't really jump a totally dead battery (can explode in rare instances)..."

    I blew one up once. After several hours of highway driving on a hot humid day (meaning lots of A/C and an even hotter engine compartment), I stopped the car to pick something up just prior to reaching my destination. I think I spent not even five minutes in the shop, hopped in my 1995 VR6 Passat, turned the key, and heard "POP!" Everything in the car instantly went dead. When I popped the hood all I saw was battery juice all over everything. Oh did it stink, and geez, what a mess. All four corners of the battery had been split from the top to the bottom, indicating that all of the fluid contents egressed the battery case in a very big hurry.

    To be perfectly honest, I never really took battery safety all that seriously. Once I saw the mess and realized just how ugly it could have gotten were it that I was working in there when it blew up, I became Mr. Conservative when working anywhere near the battery.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I have a photo somewhere of a battery that blew a hole in the hood of a Range Rover.

    Yeah, be careful about boosting batteries that are completely dead or severly overcharged as well (which may have been your case).
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