Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Hey, you're off topic!! I might have to report you to the Host.
Since my dealer is not doing the service and therefore not storing the tires, do you or Shirpo have any recommendation on storage? A buddy is letting me use his garage, so can I just stack them, maybe 2 high? Does that damage/unbalance/etc. the tires? :confuse:
regards,
kyfdx
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Since you ordered from tirerack.com you should have about a gazillion of those round things sitting around.
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
Amazing!
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
Problem(?): Upon switching out the tires I noticed that 3 of the tires were 225/40ZR18 and 1 of the tires was 255/35/ZR18. I'm assuming that whoever had the car before me got a flat and when replacing the tire, just simply looked at one of them and got it replaced. Per the manual/door panel containing tire information the front should be 225/40ZR18 and the rear 255/35/ZR18.
Question: Will driving with the set above make THAT much of a difference, or should I invest in another 255/35/ZR18 to even things out come springtime?
Thanks in advance!! :shades:
If not, I'd want the same size on both rear tires..
regards,
kyfdx
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So? It sounds like all your dealer did was reorient the wheel relative to the steering column/shaft. Yes, it may be heretical, but did it ever occur to you that your dealer may be wrong?
I raised the trim around the shifter and window switches for a look. I found that when you shift to Drive, a metal tang slides into a plastic slot. The tang holds the shifter steady as you shift left towards Sport mode. for some reason the tang does not line up exactly with the slot anymore, so I have to move the shifter slightly to line it up and slide it in. Has this happened to anyone? Any idea on a fix?
Of course I haven't seen the damage or what actually broke---I'm just going by what you say. I presume from your user name that this is indeed an AWD vehicle.
Is this anything to worry about? (ie, the DSC was fully off though I didn't hold the button down at all).
The accident must have jarred the lamp sockets enough to indicate the phathom warning in my interior dash system.
Per your suggestion, I replaced the lamps and placed a thin coat of the dielectric grease. IT WORKED!
Thank you.
Now, this top looks in great shape, even has the BMW logo on the inside, but it just doesn't fit right. In fact, it looks like it shrunk!? The very back edge is supposed to take a turn down, towards the trunk but in my case, it actually turns up, so it acts like a gutter in the rain, and generally looks bad!
My questions are: a) is there anyone out there with experience who knows how to adjust this to make it look/fit correctly?? b) is that possible? c) if not, where does one go (I don't really want to talk dealer) to look into getting a new top + installation??
In the West Chester, PA area... any help/suggestions are appreciated.
They normally handle seats,carpets, leather work, and convertible tops. Some vary in quality. I'd ask your BMW Service Manager for his recommendation for a quality shop in your area.
Thanks!!
The only problem? If you are taking your car to the dealer for "free" service, then what happens when you need a repair? Then you are paying dealer prices, for something that you may have taken to an independent.
If you know you are going to use dealer service, then there isn't much to debate.... buy the plan..
regards,
kyfdx
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If you have an '03, I'd wait until closer to the 4 year expiration of the current plan... You'll be able to judge your needs better at that point, and if they've already replaced the brakes by then, you may decide it is not worth it...
If you aren't going to make it to the 60K Inspection II by the expiration of the extended plan, then I wouldn't buy it....
And... shop around... you should be able to buy the plan for $995.
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanks
I just bought an '01 325i with only 32k miles on it. I'm having issues with the moonroof closing entirely. When I use the one touch switch, (then release)it closes only half way. (It really goes 3/4 of the way, then retracts, as if it's path were blocked).
But when I hold the button, it closes all the way. Anyone had an issue with this?
Thanks,
thank you! kacie
I'd say your battery is totally dead and even a jumper battery might not be enough. You should put your battery on an overnight charger, clean up the cable terminals and see how that works. You shouldn't really jump a totally dead battery (can explode in rare instances) and you should never try to charge a totally dead battery with your car's alternator (overworks your alternator and leads to premature failure of same).
If the battery is good and fully charged and you get ONE click each time you turn the key, then I'd say you have a starter or starter solenoid problem or bad battery cables.
I blew one up once. After several hours of highway driving on a hot humid day (meaning lots of A/C and an even hotter engine compartment), I stopped the car to pick something up just prior to reaching my destination. I think I spent not even five minutes in the shop, hopped in my 1995 VR6 Passat, turned the key, and heard "POP!" Everything in the car instantly went dead. When I popped the hood all I saw was battery juice all over everything. Oh did it stink, and geez, what a mess. All four corners of the battery had been split from the top to the bottom, indicating that all of the fluid contents egressed the battery case in a very big hurry.
To be perfectly honest, I never really took battery safety all that seriously. Once I saw the mess and realized just how ugly it could have gotten were it that I was working in there when it blew up, I became Mr. Conservative when working anywhere near the battery.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Yeah, be careful about boosting batteries that are completely dead or severly overcharged as well (which may have been your case).