-September 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Comments
Thanks!
Does anyone have any experience on the accuracy or quality of this indicator?
I don't want to get into a flame war on whether I should be changing at 3,000 or 6,000 or what ever, I am looking for valid input on the oil life monitor.
I saw some articles that indicated a vehicle, under certain conditions, could go as much as 15,000 miles before the light would trigger. I think this may be stretching it, but, if at 6,000 miles, I've only used 1/2 of my oil life, a few more miles wouldn't hurt.
Physically, the oil doesn't look bad. It does show dirty but it's translucency is still there. Putting a drop on blotter paper and letting it spread doesn't show appreciable dirt.
Comments
Paul P
I change my oil at 7,500 miles like my owner's manual says (ok, so I let it slide a 1,000 miles now and then <g>).
Steve, Host
I don't know, what does that say about me, being 41 years old at about 50% of my life expectancy? :-)
BTW, to bad they can't plug a Tech II instrument into one of our ports to determine useable life left. The only DIGITAL exam they have has nothing to do with computers!!!!!!!!!
I was looking at a car mag from the late '60's and most auto mfg's recommended oil changes every 5000 miles. I think oil has come a long, long way since then and we should be able to go at least that long without worry.
GAM
There's a whole mess of properties other than the 10w30 rating - things like high temperature oxidation resistance and film strength.
Engines last longer than ever these days. In fact, most motorcyles recommend that you do not break them in with synthetic oil. Why? Because it lubricates too well for the rings to seat.
As far as engines running hotter - running an engine too cool will cause more engine wear.
Let's at least be somewhat logical and scientific about this instead of believing the 3000 mile myth. There's an extra 2 quarts of oil in these things too. That ought to count for something.
Anway, most people get rid of their cars long before the engines wear out. Things like A/C compressors, fuel pumps, alternators, power steering pumps, and water pumps start dying and it gets to be a real pain replacing all those.
The fan cools the fluid in the radiator, which is then circulated throughout the engine's water jackets to cool the engine.
BTW, oil is the 60's was prone to viscosity breakdown (Changes to the thickness of the oil), among other things, resulting in accelerated engine wear. In addition, multi-viscosity oil was not yet available. Another cause of pre-mature engine wear due to old oil is dirty oil. Eventually, the filter loses its ability to adequately clean the oil.
You seem to imply that air flow over the engine has no effect on engine cooling. I don't know if I buy into that. We were always told that keeping the exterior of the engine clean would promote better cooling. Certainly, the oil is not water cooled.
Getting back to the original question of oil change intervals, I still maintain more frequent oil changes will never hurt you. Why spent 30 to 45K dollars on a car and then get cheap with oil changes?
Someone already said it best - it's got 47% of its lifetime left. After that, it no longer meets the minimum specs needed for adequate lubrication. For all we know, that could be 90% as effective as when it was new. It's like replacing tires. Certainly they're not at 0% of their effectiveness when you replace them.
Why spend 30 to 45K dollars on a car and then get cheap with oil changes?
It's not always a case of being cheap. I use synthetic oil and respect the engineers who wrote the manual that says when to change the oil. I don't believe the people that are in the oil change business and I have better things to do than change oil all the time. With 66000 miles in 3 years, I'd be my own Jiffy Lube if I changed oil every 3000 miles. Make no mistake, when I get to 300,000 miles and the engine still runs fine, I will have proved my point.
Dean
Anyway, I must thank you for supporting my previous theory. Your boss got rid of his Volvo for problems other than the engine going bad.
http://www.americanracing.com/appguide/final.asp?section=app&- detail=60488556&descript=18X8%2E5+SPORT+TRUCK+TT+6X5&pict- ure=604&make=CHEVY/GMC%20TRUCK/VAN/SUV&model=ENVOY+17%22+- WHEELS+2001%2DPresent&Comments=&softid=&sort=75&b- rand=americanracing
GAM
This is a good feature.
I'm anxious to see how long these engines last. The inline 6 design has a proven longevity record, but this one may not last as long as older designs due to aluminum block, higher compression and other features designed to get more horsepower and better efficiency.
In the 60's and 70's, it was not unheard of to get 300,000 miles out of a slant, or straight 6 if you took good care of it and drove it easy.
We will have to wait and see!
Noticed for the 1st time this week a change in climate control operation.
Car sits out during the work day in the sun, I start up and have A/C immediately. Outside temp guage reads hotter than outside temp, but quickly begins to adjust once I start moving.
Drive for a distance, and shut down. Start back up and have cool air from A/C immediately, put the "outside" temp guage reads 50.
Guage stays at 50 for several minutes and then begins to rapidly correct itself. At some point in this adjustment, the A/C blower finds a higher speed.
Can this be one of those pressure switch issues?
2002 TB EXT
My issue is that the outside temp gauge is reading much lower than the actual temp, which it should not do. It is very common for it to start out reading higher after sitting with stagnant air.
I'm not sure if this is a possible thermocouple issue or whatever they are using to sense outside temp. It is definitely tied into A/C operation as I believe the outside temp is one of the several inputs processed to determine how to respond to cabin temp.
As I said, this condition just appeared last week both times after driving for a distance, shutting down and re starting.
The first time, there was a 2hr down time, the second time a 10" down time. Both times everything corrected itself within a few minutes of driving. I am assuming this will only get worse with time and was hoping to have some insight prior to calling the dealer
Anyone has the same problem? I will be appreciated if some one can help. Thanks first.
Are you sure it's coming from under the hood? Do you just hear it from the inside? There's a very common problem with noise coming from the tachometer that kind of sounds like that. It's benign, but a little annoying.
There's another common noise problem with many GM engines, including our I6 and that is piston slap. Also benign, yet annoying.
The third possibility would be the water pump.
Recently, the driver side front door guard came up a little at the front of the door (closes to the bumper). Every time I open the door, it gets bent back further. I brought it in for service this morning and the guy told me that it is not under warranty. Does anybody out there have a similar problem - was it covered? not covered? why? if its not covered, any ideas on how to fix?
Thanks
What are you calling the door guard? I'm not sure what you mean? Body side moulding to protect against dings perhaps? If it is that, I would think it would be covered.
Not knowing all the details, hard to say. But if I thought it should be covered according to the warranty statement, I would contact GM if the dealership continues to claim it is not covered.