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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    The new K&N Aircharger for the I-6 should be street legal. It's nothing more than an open cone with a heat shield. No emissions should change. CA residents may wish to verify as I know many of the inspection points will require the stock intake upon testing.


    http://www.knfilters.com/aircharger/63-1045.pdf

  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    tblazer503, I see nothing wrong with a rare event having a usual cause.

    I'm rarely late for work, but when I am it's usually because of a traffic jam.

    A safety rarely occurs in football, but when it does it's usually do to the ball carrier being tackled in his own end zone - as opposed to a punter stepping out of the back of the end zone or a quarterback being called for intentional grounding.
  • mcafee1mcafee1 Member Posts: 6
    I guess it's time I throw in my comments. I had noticed a problem when starting my TB LT. I would turn the key to run and then start, nothing the first time, started the 2nd time. this happened several times over a weeks time. THEN I was out to lunch, tried to start, NOTHING. Noticed when in the run position the tach bounced around 2500 rpm (engine not running) error messages on the DIC. Called the GM 800 number(I didn't renew my OnStar), was told to turn the key to run and wait for 10 minutes. This would reset the control units. After about 6 or 7 minutes the panel settled down to normal. At 10 minutes car started, no problem for a week. Then problem back again, nothing worked . Called again and was towed at GM's expense to my dealer at 5:30 PM. Next morning they called an said it was ready. (I had a rental at GM's expense). They had replaced the ignition switch. After two weeks, no problems.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Just curious what is the build date on your TB?
  • redtblazerredtblazer Member Posts: 1
    Anyone experiencing problems with using a synthetic. I have 24K miles on 02 LS Trailblazer and the lifters sound like they are not getting any oil. I have been using Mobile 1 synthetic since the beginning and change it religiously.

    Have also developed a noise that sounds like a blown manifold gasket or exhaust leakage.

    Any thoughts welcome before I take it to a dealer.
  • mcafee1mcafee1 Member Posts: 6
    My TB is an old one, build date 3/01. Bought it in June 01. I have 20K miles on it. Not too much trouble. At 1K I hitched up a 5000lb trailer and drove from Calif to Minneapolis and back, 5000 mi with all the side trips. The check engine lite came on on the way back in Fargo ND. The code indicated a fan problem, cooling was working just fine. Was told that they were redesigning the clutch, not to worry. When I returned home a new clutch was installed, no lite, no problem. I did have workmanship problems weather seals, replaced and ok. Overall I am satisified, expected some problems with an early build.
  • dragonhead08dragonhead08 Member Posts: 34
    anyone notice that the k&n system unlike the airaid and volant intake completly removes the intake resonator. I wonder how much restriction that resonater has. I wonder how much of a gain if any the k&n has over the other two. My only gripe is that the 4.2 looks really naked without the resonator on top of the engine.

    hhhmmm just checked k&n's site. The kit is listed as an "offroad" kit. That means its not smog legal. But if you pop it back on before emissions you should be ok. Looking at the install instructions that shouldnt be too much of a hassle.
  • jcaesar625jcaesar625 Member Posts: 3
    The noise is mostly likely coming from the door hinge area. If you open up your doors fully, and look pass the hinge towards the wheel well, you will notice that there is a baffle there. This baffle is just barely hanging there, and it doesn't provide much of a seal. I am still looking for a good solution to attach this better, and also provide a better seal. If anyone has any ideas on how to fix this, please let me know. TIA.
  • polarbear6polarbear6 Member Posts: 16
    2k_impala_ls
    Our tires are at 33 or 34 psi with the tire stating a max of 35. I will have one of my boys top them up tonight. The tire failure was due to our county roads here. The one near our house had more patch than road, now the patches are gone and we are left with many large holes. We have not had them rebalanced yet.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    I found that problem the next day after I bought my TB in Jan (11-01 build). I fixed it myself rather than messing with the dealer. You can reach up through the bottom laying on the floor and go up almost all the way behind the rubber "baffles" so I used a tube of 3M weatherstrip glue, reached up in there applied the glue and wedged pieces of paper towel roll cut to fit between the backside of the wheel well and the rubber baffle overnight to let the glue set. Still firmly in place today. Don't know what that junk was they used at the factory- pre-chewed gum? It was about the same consistency. I just glued on top of that old stuff and has held firmly since.

    I looked at that K&N install instructions link. I could just inagine having to explain that to the dealer service departmant in case of a failure and no chance to restore to stock beforehand. After dragonheads experience with just swapping out light bulbs, seems like they would be looking for any available excuse to void the warranty. I am even reluctant to do a cat-back Borla exhaust because of warranty issues.

    Thanks mcafee1 for the reply that's what I wondered- if you had a really early build.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    BTW I still have had that sudden, sharp wind noise in my left ear after affixing the loose baffles. Sounded like the top of the drivers door lost the seal briefly even though looking at it with the door closed it is is aligned perfectly and the seal compresses. Last time that happened was during a wide-open throttle accelleration onto the freeway at about 60-65 MPH thought I'd hit something it was that loud! As though the top of the drivers door sucked out just enough to loose the seal just for a second. Impossible to repoduce. Crosswind has to be just right.
  • previousamigopreviousamigo Member Posts: 130
    I'm installing salvaged factory fog lights on my TB LS and am asking if anyone has replace the bulbs in the factory fog lights with brighter bulbs. Who knows what problems different bulbs in the fog lights will do to the warranty?????
  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    you shouldn't have any issues with warranty on the addition that you're working on as it relates to warranty. not unless you really mess up the wiring and thus cause some damage. most common mistakes electrically tend to be incorrect grounds that if diagnosed and found by the dealer will result in charges, but again, that's understandable.

    the stock bulb design on the TB's is horrible. there really are no aftermarket improvments available for the stock fogs.

    replacement with a higher watt bulb will probably lead to excessive heat thus damaging the unit/wiring. be careful.

    tim
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Good luck on any warranty issues that have anything to do with the electrical system if the LS did not come equipped with fog lights originally! Owning an LS myself would be nice if you documented the install with pictures and how you worked out any glitches. Have thought seriously about doing the same thing. Still don't understand why I would have to buy the "LT" with OnStar to get fog lights! Don't want the OnStar, DO want the fog lights. Shoulda been an option on the LS models. Even the '03's don't allow fog lights to be ordered on the LS. GM does some strange things.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Are genearlly cosmetic only. Get some Hellas or IPFs and call it a day. They are far better than any stockers out there. I think Tirerack has the FF200s for like $79 right now.

    -mike
  • cmack4cmack4 Member Posts: 302
    GM could initially refuse warranty support due to intake exhaust modifications, but if it went to court, they would have to prove that it caused the engine to run out of spec. I see your point though... would be a long drawn out process. At least intake mods are easier to change back to stock. I doubt you could ever go back to the stock exhaust and make it look completely stock.

    I actually talked to some of my shop guys before I dremeled my airbox. They said that they wouldn't refuse warranty work from the mods I did, unless the following occurred:

    1. The mod's caused enough heat buildup to trip the intake heat sensor

    2. The engine ran too lean as a result (ie overheating due to increased air volume entering combustion chamber).

    3. I didn't get a tight seal around the new filter and dirt got into the intake (possible risk, even when changing the stock filter).
  • cmack4cmack4 Member Posts: 302
    The fogs on my Bravada were actually better than what I expected. They may need some adjusting for optimization (mine did). It seems GM points them directly down, as to not blind oncoming traffic. Don't go overboard with raising them, but get them to a point where it maximizes the arc without the lights pointing up towards traffic. No, there still not as good as the better aftermarkets, but I'd say there a heck of a lot better than most stock ones I've seen!
  • kgbkahnkkgbkahnk Member Posts: 89
    I've got an LTZ, so obviously I've got the fog lights and yes, the stock design is horrible. I'm bummed to hear that there are really no options for upgrading the bulbs on these things.

    I am, however, interested in upgrading my Hi & Lo beams to HID bulbs, but I really don't know a heckuva lot about 'em. Are there differences from one manufacturer to another? *What* are the differences? What's best?

    I want them to look good, but more importantly I want them to perform better than stock. Does anybody here consider themselves to be something of an expert on the subject? Any advice?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've been hunting down HIDs upgrades for my subaru, but the same should apply for the triplets as well. From my reasearch I've found that replacement housings along with HIDs are the best route, but usually cost over $1000 for a set. Next after that are the "major" brand HID upgrades. 4900K Phillips and 6000K Phillips are better than the older 4500K units. I also like the McCoullouch(sp?) itteration as well. The better kits are total plug and play. Your sockets for the old bulbs plug into the ballast/igniter, and then a wire comes out of them with a socket for the HID bulb that then goes into your stock bulb location.

    On my SVX it takes a 9005 and 9006 bulbs for hi/low beams and rather than do fog/driving lights aftermarket I'm gonna buy 2 HID kits, one for lows and one for high beams and call it a day.

    -mike
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Having recently added 100 shares of GM stock to my IRA portfolio, I just received an invitation to a Regional Stockholders Forum to be held here in Dallas Oct 4th. Man, it sure is tempting to print out a few dozen pages of these reports and present them to the bigwigs there! They'd probably have me removed as a troublemaker... I DO plan to go though just to see what the heck this is all about. Free food anyway, and a free pass and parking voucher to the State Fair of Texas. That alone is worth almost $20!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That would rock! They should listen, especially cause you are part owner! :)

    -mike
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    So being that you're part owner, all these problems are partly your fault!
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Hey! I just bought this stuff about a month ago! 'Tain't my fault! Besides the last time they asked me for my opinion about anything was back in '87 or so after I had bought an '86 IROC-Z, whether I preferred electronic or analog instruments on the dashboard! That was at a selected owners workshop deal they had then. Did get to see some neat prototype cars there which later went into production in some form or another.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Just reading that GM is eliminating the oil level sensor readout on DIC equipped triplets as of 2003 model August production. They are deactivating that feature and the sensor and associated wiring harness is being eliminated. Add that to the list of deleted features: underhood and glovebox lights.
  • mitchinson1mitchinson1 Member Posts: 1
    Have 33000 k's on my Envoy. Front end appears loose. That is when driving it feels like the struts are shot as there seems like excess play in the wheel. Has anyone experienced a similar problem?
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    tblazed: are you refering to the oil life indicator (100 % to 0%) indication? If so, that is about the most useless indicator I have ever seen on a dash. My dealer, who is otherwise an excelent servicing dealer doesn't even reset it after an oil change. It displays about 80% oil life left at 3k miles of use. I think if people were to go by the reading and not change their oil until 0% was displayed, GM would be in line with mercedes, extending warranties due to bad advice. Besides, anything GM can do to make these cars LESS technical will improve overall reliability IMO. Give me a reset button instead.

    Frank
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    No that just calculates when "it" thinks the oil ought to be changed relative to time and driving conditions. Even my LS has that (warning light only). What I refer to (I presume since I don't have it) is an Oil Level monitor that apparently measures the actual oil level with a sensor in the oil pan and reads out on the DIC display and sets off a warning "CHECK OIL LEVEL" according to my owners manual pg. 2-102.

    "Anything GM can do to make these cars LESS technical will improve overall reliability" I agree that's why I have an LS. Not a matter of cost, just the simpler the better IMO. It still has plenty of nice features with the 1SC package.
  • mtrammellmtrammell Member Posts: 125
    My TB is DIC equiped and it doesn't have an oil level sensor.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    I revised-edited my last post after I read my manual in the "DIC Warnings and Messages" section on page 2-102. You have never run low on oil so you've never seen it. But that's deleted from the '03's according to the GM info I read.
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Well after 7 days, I finally got my Bravada back
    (wandering mirrors, flaking paint, defective sunvisor). Of course, now the mirror whistles.
    Go figure.

    Just for grins, I asked the dealer what they would give me on a trade in (Honda or Isuzu).
    They offered $21,000. That's only a $15,000
    hit in 6 months (or a 42% drop). Hey, not too
    bad, I'm MADE of money!

    GAM
  • xntrickxntrick Member Posts: 27
    build date of 5/02 with 6200 miles on it. Hearing some squeeks from the front and some minor rattles from the midsection. I did have a steel exhaust end put on and it does seem loose to touch... I tried to put some silicone spray on the hood latch along with the two rubber-ish/spring loaded "hood rests" but to no avail. Suggestions welcome.
  • macman246macman246 Member Posts: 118
    Saw an '03 Envoy in the parking lot at work from 8 stories up. Along with the new whip antenna, it also looks like they eliminated those black plastic strips on top of the roof between the roof racks. Should make washing and waxing easier, but you're more likely to scratch up the roof when hauling something on top.
  • previousamigopreviousamigo Member Posts: 130
    I wonder if the black strips on top are gone because the roof rack may now be and option for the TrailBlazer LS. I wish I could find some plugs for the roof rack rail holes so I could take them off. Make it look more like the 400HP twin turbo TB. I will never use the roof racks. BTW, has anyone used the racks yet without any expensive accessories to hold stuff up there? Is the extra wind resistance a problem? Has anyone used one of those flat racks that plug into the trailer recievers in back? Do you like that?
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    I use my racks all the time to carry my surfboard. No wind resistance problems at all.
    Also, if you want to add things like ski racks, all you need to buy is the little adapters that fit to the existing cross bars. Bike racks are another story; for that I use a Yakima rack that fits into the trailer hitch receiver. Works great.
  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    Well, it's been a while, so while I was enjoying a day off today, I took an hour or so and updated my site. I've added a pics of other folks nice Triplets and a few more folks also sent in their modifications and updates. Thanks too all who contributed and have emailed in information, links and all sorts of great stuff to share.


    tim

    http://timlauro.com/cars/trailblazer/1-main-page.html

  • chootschoots Member Posts: 21
    On a recent trip to the coast I stopped and re-fueled my 02 Envoy slt. I reset the DIC and entered a freeway that had a strict 50 mph speed limit, I set the speed control at 50 mph and drove to my destination, about 20 miles. Needless to say I was very pleased to see that I had averaged 26.4 miles per gallon for the 20 miles.
    I normally get 20 to 21 mpg at 70 miles per hour on the freeway. What a difference 20 miles per hour makes!
    My around town mileage is terrible, 10-11 miles per gallon. The reason for this is that my Envoy has always shifted high, staying in low and second gear forever before it shifts up. Has anyone else had this high shifting problem? My dealer is no help, and please don't say it is my driving, all my other vehicles get good mileage in town.
    Carl
  • ylabylab Member Posts: 46
    Carl, I bet you have the 3.42 drive on your Envoy and that's why it 'seems' to hold 1st and 2nd too long. (Especially when cold) I thought the same thing on mine and its just that the trans needs 2500-2600 rpms to shift from 1st to 2nd and if you're on the gas lightly this seems to take forever and a day.

    Us 3.42 owners also need to step on it a bit more than the others when the air is on for that off the line feel, which doesn't help the mpg in town either.

    Ray
  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    Someone asked if I had information regarding the details of the 2003 Vortec 4200 and the improvements made.


    I've added it to the 03 information section on my site. Email me more details if they are out there. I've yet to link to vs add in the details on the trim levels, etc....let GM do that work!


    http://timlauro.com/cars/trailblazer/xl-ext-related/xl-ext-info.htm

  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    I will second that. I am lucky if I get 13 MPG in all in-town driving. If I drive it very lightly in an effort to keep the shift points at 2500 or below I will be the last one in the pack from a red light. I normally like to keep up with the flow. What gets me is, I can manually shift it from 1 to 2 at about 1800 RPM and feels fine accelerating, likely due to the relatively flat torque curve that is within 25 lb/ft from about 1800 to 5000 RPM with the peak at 275 lb/ft at 3600. Why the engineers designed it this way is beyond me. I purposely bought the 3.42 gears to get better gas mileage and still have what should have been plenty of low end performance with an unloaded (i.e., usually no passengers and never towing anything) situation.
  • tjcishere1tjcishere1 Member Posts: 42
    A few messages back i noticed talk about the roof rack and the black strips on the roof the 2002 Envoy XL doesn't have them. in fact i did look to be sure ,, but also i did take notice when i waxed the truck a few weeks ago. I'll give an update also, build date 5/02 3.73 rear 1sk pkt with the Dvd and the air suspension working fine 5,500 miles on it. noticed front bumper very lose dealer to order new brackets, they moved the tranny line as much as they could away from catalic converter did air bag up date. I have front end noise squeaking not the hood they say sway bar bushings were fine, noise does go away after i drive on the highway and stop, then try to make it happen again i cant hear the noise. gas mileage isn't bad im getting 16.7 around town and freeway but all freeway driving getting around 18 so far. as far as towing i towed my 3,500 lb boat to Lake George and what a pleasure the truck pulls very nice gas mileage on teh freway towing was about 14 to 15 with the auto climate on which also works fine all in all a few minor problems but we are happy with the Envoy XL very much
  • aerogalaerogal Member Posts: 8
    Did any of you consider buying and/or test drive a Durango before purchasing your GM SUV? What was it about the GM that you preferred?
  • chootschoots Member Posts: 21
    My envoy has the 3.73 axle ratio, plus the slt professional off road package, locking differential, Goodrich off road tires, underbody shield, and etc.
    Like tblazed, I can get decent in town mileage if I shift it manually or let up on the gas and make it shift at a lower speed than it wants to, but of course this is a pain, and makes the guy behind you very angry.
    For me it is not so much the poor mileage, it is the feeling that this car is just not shifting properly, and it is a constant irritation.
    Has anyone had any experience with companys like "Hyperteck" who claim to be able to program your car for better shifting, and performance?
    Carl
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    I did look at the durango, explorer, 4runner, and MDX before I purchased my Trailblazer. 4runner was honestly too expensive for the features and I didnt feel it was a value. MDX is pretty good value for the money, but when I purchased my TB, they were going for MSRP + 3k... making it not worth it. The explorer... well, resale value and media hype kinda made me shy away from it. As for the durango, the crash tests really didn't help its cause IMO, but more that I felt a little cramped height wise in it... BTW, they are redesigning the durango for '04 I believe... hope this helps... (4runner felt a little tinny to me also...)
  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    aerogal, I looked at the Durango, but the TB LTZ was so much more refined. The TB's fresh styling was attractive, and bold appearance rivaled the Durango's. The Dodge just looked dated and rode more like a truck. Inside it just wasn't as passenger worthy. That's just me. I honestly can't say enough about how nice the ride on the TB is. I wish it cornered a bit better but then it really holds the curves, it just seems to feel soft. However, it is a family SUV not a sports sedan.


    Hope my two Lincolns worth helps.


    tim

    http://timlauro.com/cars/trailblazer/1-main-page.html

  • racoonlodgeracoonlodge Member Posts: 34
    Not too many things to complain about the 2002 LTZ, but what were the "engineers" thinking of when they designed the tailgate strap?? Felt like "Turkish taffy" (remember that?) Anyway, finally stretched apart and had to replace it with a part of black leather belt. Drilled two holes in the black leather and must admit looks pretty damn good! And sure feels stronger than the Taffy!
  • lubanglubang Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have a problem when you turn on the signal you will hear the clicking noise coming out from the steering wheel?
    Mine is making click noises every time when I turn on the signal to make a turn. I brought it to dealer, but they said that's normal, or they don't know what theyre talking about. It wasn't like that when I bought it. It happened a few months now. Is there a way to get rid of the noises? It really bother me.
    Thanks in advance.
  • stoney11stoney11 Member Posts: 10
    Anyone ever hear of signing contract, buying & taking possesion of a vehicle for 0 down, 0 interest, then about a month later the dealer says can't do it, have to rewrite the contract????
    Not sure what to do!!
  • cwhawkcwhawk Member Posts: 38
    GM announced that an update to the PCM software for 2003 results in better gas mileage.

    I had my dealer contact Chevrolet and the update is not and will not be available for the 2002 model.

    Every 2002 owner needs to contact GM about the update. EPA figures are much higher than what owners are getting and GM needs to work on an update for the 2002 models, if indeed it will help.

    In addition, ask about a PCM update to lower the shift points. Most owners report shifts points are too high and certainly have a negative effect on combined and in-city mileage.

    Call your dealers and ask for the update. It took a year for a simple tail gate gasket, so don't delay.
  • ron_mron_m Member Posts: 186
    Hi lubang,

    In response to your message no. 7527, the answer for me is 'yes'! It sounds like something is bound up in the steering column, and this causes a clicking/crackling sound. You can slightly turn the steering wheel while the turn signal is on and this is when the clicking/crackling sound takes place. It sounds to me like plastic components are being severely strained--or put in tension. This is one of the problems that I have yet to have a Chevy dealership address. Mine is in the shop right now for EIGHT other problems!!!

    Someday I plan on posting the entire list of problems that I have experienced with my 2002 TrailBlazer LTZ. Hopefully there will be enough bandwidth to handle it. :-)

    Ron M.
  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    One month later?? No Way. Just curious...have you gotten your coupon book yet for payments?

    Tell the dealer that the contract you signed stays. If they push it, then contact the lending institution...GMAC and work with them directly.

    Sounds like BS to me.
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