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Comments
On Netscape 7.01 it is too small at the normal setting of 100%. Don't know why.
Hope GM is listening. Give dealers the ability to go back to older programs.
Still have slight vibration problem too at 60mph.
Should I file a formal complaint as well??
Thanks.
On the stalling problem, lets remember that the investigation sounds like stalling at high speeds is the target problem. Any car can and will occasionally stall.
Frank
Anyone know how to adjust doors on these? The top edge of the rear door does not touch the weatherstrip and need to adjusted inward at the top. Do they just bend them?
GAM
Here in Western NY, temp has not exceed low 20's in weeks. Tonight for the first time, I experienced what I would call slight hesitation shortly after a cold start. Temp gauge was barely off left bottom. I was thinking of having the updates done next week but wanted some assurance that in the long run, performance improved. If not, I can live with an occasional hesitation. So what's the verdict... leave well enough alone, or get the updates??
just so y'all know, I have brake issues, strange noise, and other things going on. this is my first GMC. I love my Envoy, I have a great stereo( my husband says he can hear me a block away). one of the best vehicles I have ever had.
I am a PROUD AMERICAN and the people that drive BMW's for 2 hours to work and 2 hours back everyday use more gas than I do in a week driving my SUV. so stick that in a commercial!
Thanks for all your help again. I may come back for advice if my problem continue. good luck with all of yours. Any advice you would like to add go for it.
1. The front bumper fascia was loose. The dealer had previously tightened this up -- but I figured what the heck, go ahead and have the new designed braces installed! The fix for loose front bumper fascia is TSB #02-08-62-001 for VIN prior to -22375120. The updated brace part numbers for the Envoy are: Right #15184433 left #15184432. Braces are on order.
2. The accelerator pedal has a popping, clicking or crunching sound coming from the associated bracket or switch ONLY while you are driving the vehicle! I can push up and down on the pedal all day long when the vehicle is not being driven and it WON'T make the noise! Pedal part #15150990 is on order.
3. The front passenger seat shoulder belt locks up prematurely. See TSB #02-09-40-003 for the fix which is to replace the seat belt retractor assembly with the updated part. Seat Belt part #88956143 is on order.
4. The center console rear aux power port cover is wearing a spot in rear seat when folded forward. See TSB #02-08-49-009 for the fix. Aux Power Outlet Retainer part #15173672 is on order.
I had my Envoy in for service last June for rear license housing gasket, fan noise, loose door foam baffles, insufficient heat flow to drivers feet, and a computer reprogram for throttle hesitation. My service manager (Rally GMC, Palmdale, CA) always takes care of me!
I will post an update when the parts are all installed in a few days.
I have removed my roof rack completely, installed a Volant cold air intake, and switched to Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I get a solid 17 mpg in mixed driving -- even with my foot shoved in it most of the time! For an SUV, this thing screams!
My next project is to install a Belltech suspension system, kit #141.
This is a great site! All of the shared information (facts and opinions) has proven to be an extremely valuable tool for maintaining my vehicle. Thanks to all!
Ed
So you removed the main rails? What about all the black strips that run the length of the vehicle? How'd you do it? What kind of holes were left over and how'd you plug 'em? How reversible is it (i.e. if you need the roof rack back on for a weekend trip, can you quickly/temporarily put it back on?)?
Thanks,
Greg
Here is a copy of the TSB and it clearly states all three of the triplets...
Interference with Center Console Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Cover and Rear Seat Cushion (Replace Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Retainer and Cover) #02-08-49-009 - (10/04/2002)
Interference with Center Console Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Cover and Rear Seat Cushion (Replace Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet Retainer and Cover)
2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer
2002 GMC Envoy
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada
Built Prior to May, 2002
Condition
Some customers may comment on an indentation mark or, in extreme cases, a puncture of the rear left seat cover. When the left rear seat bottom is raised and the seat back is folded down flat, the seat bottom rests against the back of the center console. The auxiliary power outlet cover, located on the back of the center console, contacts the seat bottom. If enough weight or pressure is applied to the seat bottom in this position, the auxiliary power outlet cover may leave an indentation or possibly damage the seat cover.
Cause
The auxiliary power outlet cover has a raised finger tab. This raised tab on the cover may cause the condition.
Thanks
Has anyone added an amp to the Bose for a box? If so, how was it done to get the best performance out of it? I would like to change the whole system out and then use the subs, but that wont be for a while and I cant stand the idea of an amp and subs sitting there looking at me. Any help would be appreciated.
The thing that makes me wonder is that the one time this happened to me, a coolant temperature sensor had apparently gone on the fritz, although I didn't see a particular message on the display, just lit up as you would expect with the key on and not running.
1. Issue with a buzzing noise in the center counsel which sounds like plastic rubbing together. When I hold in on the radio, the sound decreases but doesn't totally go away. Usually happens going over bumps.
2. Ticking noise that seems to be most prevalent when the air conditioner compressor kicks in...Could there be something loose/coming into contact with the compressor?
3. Rattling noise that sounds like its coming from under the center of the vehicle somewhat under the console like something hitting something else.
4. Does anyone have issues with the cargo cover making noise? The service guy said that 9 times out of 10 it's installed wrong yet still makes the noise after he installed it "correctly".
Thanks in advance for the help!!
I put in some 3.5" coaxil speakers in my dash. The highs and mid's are now much better. The factory bass is ok, but not very tight.
02-08-64-017, moisture in door connection-ok
02-06-03-001, ignition wire chaffing , repair wire and cover area.
Now whether or not it is corrected on not, I don't know, they say it is. Will see what develops in regards to other people's problems mentioned previously. After stalling and waiting 20 minutes, it would start which doesn't sound like ignition wire to me.
Check out my previous post -- #9127 -- for info on my roof rack removal. You remove the front caps on the roof rails to get to the forward screws. There are five screws per rail. After you remove the screws and rails, you will have round threaded steel inserts that are just under 1/2" wide and stick up approximately 1/16". These are the threaded inserts for the rail screws. They do not come out! I purchased some 1/2" long plastic plugs from the local hardware store to close out these threaded inserts. These plugs are the type that are commonly used to hold panels and carpet down in cars and trucks -- finishing plugs. You want plugs with a very low profile button head. Apply a small bead of clear Silicone RTV sealant under the head of the plugs and press them into the holes. That's it! You will have to buff out the scuff marks on the roof from where the rails were mounted. Not the best solution -- but a workable one.
Ed
(e-mail me for photos: edstamper@butter.toast.net )
Initially when I made the appointment, I was told the install time would be around 4-5 hours. Then when I get there on my date, Im told they can do it but it will sound like crap. Reading what you said, its probably they dont want to spend the time on the install and bypassing or whatever to the Bose amp. It was at a Tweeter the install was suppose to happen. For the $50 for install, not worth it to them if it does take 4 hours. My only option is to wait and change the entire system. Either that or go find another place that can or is willing to do the install.
Thanks
For the sake of safety, keep in mind that our triplets don't have any kind of electronic yaw control to keep them from spinning out and the 4WD can't make them stop any faster.
If you were looking for AWD, you should have bought the Bravada. It's electronic transfer case reaction time is a quarter second or less. I still notice mine "kicking-in", but it has so far been rapid enough to prevent slides on turns at reasonable "slick-pavement" driving speeds.
I have owned two 4x4 Chevy Blazers, one Ford F150 4x4 SuperCrew and two other 4x4 Subarus in the past.
The current Subaru AWD is the best performer of them all in terms of getting thru the road in ice and snow.
So far so good. The drive home was uneventful. Activated the ECAS several times by idling facing uphill and downhill while stopped, no major fluctuations in idle. Stepping on the gas hard also does not seem to produce a drop in idle like before. Maybe it just seems way more responsive than the Ford F150 4x4 quad cab I rented for 4 days.
Here's the text from my invoice. The fix seems even stranger than replacing the ignition switch during attempt #3:
Intermitant communication, fair code U1000 and U1064. Replaced lift gate module, check grounds 107 and 108, check purge solinoid and data line to ECAS sys. tech. assist case #6167772, road test, cannot duplicate concern tech case #6167772
The lift gate module??? What the heck does that do? I really hope that was the culprit. We shall see...
I love my Envoy XL but the cold Wisconsin weather has pointed out some of its cold blooded nature, not unusual for wheeled vehicles in my book. I've had Honda's and Saab's that have had their own unique cold weather characteristics. But on the Envoy for example, when cold and traveling up a 3/4 mile grade while on my way to the freeway in the morning it won't drop into overdrive thus wasting gas. That same grade, and even steeper grades, are easily traveled in overdrive when the vehicle is warmed up. My definition of warmed up is about after 5-7 minutes of operation at reasonable speed.
Happy motoring.
Chris
Found a company, Go2Pac.com, that has the adaptors that anyone would need to add an amp to the bose system. The item#C2A-GM24 wont be ready for about 30 days, but in talking to the tech support of the company, they advised the item will work, heres the email.
The audio out of the factory deck is at a fixed level so you can not use a LOC there and if you get the signal after the factory amp it won’t be full range. We will have available in about 30 days an interface that will plug into the radio and reads the data signal being sent to the factory amp from the deck and adjusts the signal out. Part # is C2A-GM24. Watch our web site for updates.
http://service.gm.com/index_en-US.html
Just select the Techlink tab for information.
You will find that my Bravada will provide a slight delay compared to the "Full Time AWD" systems. "Full Time AWD" would be best for just snowy conditions. One thing that I appreciate with my "On Demand AWD" is that there is no wear on my system at all unless it is slipping.
So while I don't have as much bragging rights for it's immediate response. I will have a system that should be more reliable and better on gas mileage than comparable heavy duty truck based systems. I think you will find my link should address this question.
--
Doug
According to the shop foreman, it only takes a "glitch" of 3 milliseconds on the data bus to disrupt the computers in these SUV's.
Make sure you take it in and get it checked out. Reference my case number from above. I disagree that engines are supposed to stall (in reference to a prior post). That implies breach of warranty since an engine is supposed to move the vehicle, not stop it and create a safety hazard.
Frank
Chris
Chris
'02 Envoy XL SLT owner.
Chris
By the way, there are some good guidlines for installing two way radios in GM vehicles under the services provided section of the GM site.
Frank
Thanks
GAM
It's really only most effective from a dead stop or very low speeds. Personally, a full time AWD system is much better and IMO, I still like the Viscous systems previously used. Bravada's today no longer have SmartTrak....it's really just semi-smart IMO. Same system as the Envoy and TB's.
I wouldn't advise taking the Triplets on a comparison course with a subaru. You'll wish you had one then.
We are currently in process of replacing my wifes car with a Legacy Outback with Stability Control and all. I for the life of me couldn't spin or fishtale the darn thing with the system on. Even on a sweeping S Curve with a very slick coating of snow...this thing just took over and kept me on course. Very nice considering safety is my main concern for her. wouldn't dare do that with a 4WD in Hi or even A4WD.
Come on GM...get back to the good stuff at least as an option above A4WD!!
3.42's give you better highway gas mileage because the engine will be revving lower for a given speed.
3.73's are better for towing and will give you better low end acceleration. There are also 4.10's
available that I kind of wish I had.
3.73's seem to be the ideal, though.
I wouldn't advise taking the Triplets on a comparison course with a subaru. You'll wish you had one then.
Not me. For offroading or really bad snow conditions, AWD loses to 4WD. I was thinking of getting an Outback at one point, but it's over 30 grand to get a 6 cylinder version when things like the the Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute are substantially less.
We are currently in process of replacing my wifes car with a Legacy Outback with Stability Control and all. I for the life of me couldn't spin or fishtale the darn thing with the system on.
Maybe that's because Outbacks are so underpowered :^)
I'm thinking of upgrading the speakers on my non-Bose system.
Does anyone know if my dash is pre-wired for speakers? And if so, is the stock stereo set up already for dash speakers (kinda plug and play, I guess)? Also, if so, how do I remove the top dash panel in which the speak grills are located?
Another one, are the door speakers simply a round 6.5" coax or something? How do I remove the door panels without damaging the clips or whatever holds them in place?
Thanks for all the help!
Dean
Tommy
powerwise this thing really scoots. like the I6, it's no jumper off the line, but 215hp moves this thing in a way very similar to the Triplets. The 4 banger is the jumper and spools quicker but dies in the long haul.
Allright, we'll head to a hugely steep rocky trail and I'll be forced to pull 4WD low out on you.
What would Paisan say?
I know the Outback has a good AWD system, but that car's still front wheel drive (for fuel economy) until it detects slippage. It may be quick, but there still is a delay unlike true 4WD.
The advantage to AWD is when going around turns and the fact that you can leave it on in variable conditions without worrying about damaging the drivetrain. Clearly for most people AWD makes more sense. I mas merely making a point to defend 4WD's benefits. I am not suggesting that driving up hugely steep rocky trails is something that matters to most people.
Also, I know it sounds like I'm bashing the Outback and that's not totally the case. It was on my list at one point and it's still probably the best wagon out there, until they start making the Magnum of course.