I noticed that the ABS light and brake warning light are both on and will not turn off. Brakes still work. Time to take it to the dealer. My traction control lamp seems to be burnt out too.
As many have stated before, the Prowler supercharger will NOT fit under the hood of LH cars. Too bad, there are many of us with LH cars that would be very interested. Even those of us with the R/T!
The Bosch Platinum +4s work well. When I had my car dynoed, the technicians were telling me to "use Autolites...we don't know why, but everyone who switches gains HP....there was a guy in here the other day and we made some runs, switched to the Autolites, and got 7HP"
I'm not sure about that yet. Could've been just new plugs. I think the Autolite Platinums would be cheaper to test that the Bosch if you wanna try them first.
As for the Paxton Supercharger, you can just get Av to make a custom hood with a hump or something to make things fit. I remember the old Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse having a hump on the hood, which I always assumed was because of the turbo charger.
The Bosch Platinum +4s work well. When I had my car dynoed, the technicians were telling me to "use Autolites...we don't know why, but everyone who switches gains HP....there was a guy in here the other day and we made some runs, switched to the Autolites, and got 7HP"
I'm not sure about that yet. Could've been just new plugs. I think the Autolite Platinums would be cheaper to test that the Bosch if you wanna try them first.
As for the Paxton Supercharger, you can just get Av to make a custom hood with a hump or something to make things fit. I remember the old Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse having a hump on the hood, which I always assumed was because of the turbo charger. If you're gonna spend 6,000 on a supercharger, then the custom hood cost is probably insignificant.
300Michael:....first problem.....NOT a technical guy by any stretch of the imagination, but MAYBE its the Body Control Module (BCM)? On my S.O's last trip BACK to 1/16th star dealer, the airbag light went on, seats moved ack and forth, gas guage read empty, heater came on --all by themselves.. its just a guess. Is your M a 2K model? Seems a few of us here have had the 'light show/bizarre interior goings on..' thing happen to us--to my knowledge they were all 2000 models. IF the BCM module IS the problem, don't let them put in a 'new' (read here as a repaired and put back in a new box..) module. Push for a brand-spanking-never-touched-by-human-hands module. My dealer put in one of those, and well, the result speaks for itself. Dealer says the module costs $1k.....ooch!
I figure the parking break is off? Try depressing it and taking it off again. I had the abs and trac light stay on when I got it back from the mechanic after an emissions - turned out it was from the emissions machine - the car is on, front wheels turning, but back wheels aren't, so they light up signaling a potential problem. Went over 5mph and they turned off.
Otherwise, it's prolly something the dealer needs to do
The clock faces were done by our very own Scotian (scott). He posts here every day so I'm sure he'll get back to you on if he's still doing the custom faces. Here is a link to my "how to" page showing how I replaced mine.
A low cost, good performing setup. Very space efficient, and integrates nicely with the 11 speaker (upgraded) Infinity factory system. I got mine in an eBay auction for $215 plus shipping. There are two different models. One allows the installation of a remote level control that lets you adjust the level of low bass from the drivers seat. The one I got does not provide for this (gotcha!). I wish I had the other one, but using the bass control on the stock console allows adjustment for gross imbalances. Mine is installed firing to the side and angled toward the rear on the passenger side. This places it close to the stock amp. The level and crossover points are widely adjustable and the speakers (one active and one passive radiator) are built into the case with the amp. This location allows both rear seats to be lowered and long objects, ie my bike to be loaded. Regarding the seats up or down: It has plenty of power with the seats up. Be careful with the kids hearing!
There are many other options, all of which will enrich your local shop more than your listening pleasure. I have played serious large organ pieces with my setup and find nothing lacking in lowest bass. (Large organs have 16hz pipes).
You don't need to have the seat down to hear it. It's plenty potent with the seats up and the trunk closed. You can pre-set the gain and bass levels to your personal preferences with the controls on the unit, and then increase/decrease the bass as needed using the equalizer in the dash. It works very well for us people that just want a bit more oomph. It's not a $2,000 high end system, but for $200-$300 you can't beat it (in my opinion)
I'm not sure what email address I have listed on the site. I have so many of them! I'll have to check them all and then make sure the one on the site is the most current.
well, that's not as easy of a question as it sounds. The stock M has three mufflers on it - a collector behind the cats that takes two pipes in and sends one out, one behind the gas tank in the center, and one right at the tips behind the bumper. I'm not sure how much impact changing any ONE of them will have on the sound of the exhaust. Most of us that have changed the exhaust have removed all three and replaced them with two high-flow mufflers that add sound and performance (and nice dual pipes). Here is a link to my dual exhaust page with more information and some pictures/diagrams:
I've checked all the email addresses that I have access to remotely, so I must have my home account listed at the site. Please re-send the e-mail to mike@ritchiefamily.com
I've seen the pictures of your rig and it is very nice, the dual exhuast seems to be ideal. But I am technically inept and would never dream of being able to accomplish this myself. At the same time I don't want to sink a ton of money in to the exhaust system. I'd love to boost performance a tad and add that aggressive sound, what's the best solution for me if someone else is going to have to do it and I don't want to get too spendy?
I think I calculated that the parts for my system would be under $300, including both mufflers, some exhaust pipes, tips, etc. Add $100 or so for a shop to install it and you've got a dual exhaust system for under $500. I paid $500 for mine, but the price also included a K&N air filter (he was a K&N dealer too). If you're looking for something less expensive you might try leaving the system in-tact back to the second muffler, replacing the second muffler with a high-flow one, and running dual pipes back to the single cut-out on the driver's side. This would remove the third muffler all together which will give you more sound, and replace the second muffler with a high flow model that has dual outputs instead of a single output. A dynomax 17758 or 17786 might work for this. To save money you could try to re-use the existing tips or just run stainless exhaust pipes out the back (non-chromed). I'll try to mock up a picture for you and post it later.
What you maybe should do is find a local performance exhaust shop and tell them what you want to do and work with them on design and pricing. I'm not sure where you're located, but if you're in Southern California I highly recommend Ed Hanson Performance Muffler outside San Diego.
Thanks for your time, those sound like some good leads on a solution. I'm located in beautiful Boise, ID , so I will spend some time looking for a shop and see what they can do. Your suggestions will be very helpful in getting going on this.
Hey! I was born in Bryn Mawr and my folks still live in the Norristown/Blue Bell area. Two of my dad's best friends are mechanics (one ford, one BMW) so I'll have him ask them.
Did you get your BassLink from a dealer who advertises on e-Bay? If you were happy with the transaction, is your source still advertising more BassLink's? I keep seeing a number of these ads but I would hate to send my $$ to an unreliable supplier. I am sure some are very good, but I've not had the best experiences on e-Bay.
PART#'S FOR CATCHALLS ARE THE SAME BUT HAVE DIFFERENT COLOR #'S SEE BELOW
799642 - GREY 799653 - BEIGE 799649- CHARCOAL
PART#'S FOR EXTREME VINYL MATS
499602 - GREY 499612 - TAN 499601 - CHARCOAL"
I have replied, asking what Extreme Vinal Mats are, and if 300M = Intrepid as far as their products go, since I want to order a set through JCWhitney if we don't arrange a group discount. Further complicating things, JCW lists blue for the Intrepid mats, but Nifty does not list blue for its 300M mats. As far as I know, Intrepid should equal 300M.
I've seen some references to SummitRacing as a good place to get a Borla system. I don't see it there. I'm looking in the exhaust systems section and I don't find it. Is it still available through them? Any body have a link to the page of SummitRacings site that has the Ms Borla?
ok...I did a little modification to a couple of images for you. This first one is a graphical picture of what might be a low cost exhaust solution for you. It utilizes stock components back through the intermediate pipe, requiring only the purchase of a new rear muffler, some pipes and brackes, and maybe tips (depending on taste). I'm not sure how restrictive the stock collector is, but you should certainly get some flow/performance gains and some throatier sound from replacing the center muffler and eliminating the one in the rear.
Thanks. Hope that was not too much trouble for you to get together, but it sure will help.
After reading your posts and seeing that you were around 500 with the system that you had done, I thought I should look at all the options, including the Borla system, and make a decision based on everything that I could learn from the experiences from owners on the board and the feedback I get from the shops I find. Your probably right, the Borla is probably not the way I would go, but wanted to have as much info as possible. Thanks again for your help.
I just ordered my Borla system last week from SummitRacing. I think there is something wrong with their website though, I was looking there off/on and for the past couple months and could not find a listing....till last week. I checked again today and now it's not there. See, last Thursday there were buttons at the bottom of the web page you could click on to get more applications, but again today it's not there. Weird. Anyways, they have it. It's part #BOR-14835. It costs $511 plus a $5 handling fee for shipping. They ship the same day, I had mine the next day!!! I get mine installed tomorrow, that will run me $75. I'll let you all know how good it sounds!
Ok, I found these old clips of my exhaust. The first, the mpg, is 1.7MB and sounds a little tinnier than actual. The second file, the avi, is about 400k and the sound a bit muffled. Imagine a nice rich sound between the two. Oh, the box is from the use of a neutered video editing program.
Apparently, someone thinks the Intrepid and 300M are incompatible:
"dear Scott, Thank you for your email. I suggest calling Chrysler to find out for sure if the body styles are the same. Our vendor does not recommend it . Roberta JC Whitney Internet Customer Service"
on1wheel -- Go over there and straighten all of this out for us!
The first thing I did was to press and release the parking brake pedal (did no good). The park light stays on and the ABS turns on after 7 seconds no matter what I do. I undid all my wireing to see of any change, but it had no affect. Sounds like a module problem, or bad sensor to me. Thanks for the thoughts anyway. The car drives good although there is a really slight differance if brake feel. I have an appointment for friday morning.
Someone mentioned a TSB or something for correcting seat movement. Can you please give that number again. I figure I will have the dealer fix it too before the warranty is over.
here is a reliable source for heavy duty brand name rubber mats custom sized for the M--I will be ordering mine soon unless a group purchase is possible. I have agate carpet, so I think the black would look fine--$44.95 for fronts which is all I need. http://www.macneil.com/store/igsearch.asp?item_group_id=3
I have 2 more glitches with my M. When I use the door lock button, the left rear door lock make a loud metallic and buzzing clunk. Anyone have this problem Also, my front speakers sound raspy especially on deep base notes. I noticed this when car was new, but now it is worse. So, Lolita is going back to the dealer for another warranty service. I get to drive another Cheep when I drop the M off at the dealer's.
Another couple of small probs with the M. 26k on the clock and running fine otherwise
Did you drive by any graveyards...or junkyards...around halloween time? lol! I bet the speaker is that cheap center one in the dash that serves no logical purpose. I think Av and possibly others have just disconnected it. However, if it's under warranty I'd have them replace it. It might just be a tear in the cone. Also, I have a similar window problem on my wife's grand caravan. It makes an unnecessary amount of noise when I lock or unlock the passenger side door. My guess is that it's just the little motor in there, but I've never bothered to take it in for a fix (since I don't drive the "rolling garbage can", as I call it).
The TSB is 23-019-01 for the moving seat dated 8/10/2001. Repair (installation of a revised pair of screws) is to be made if owner mentions condition. The same power seat adjuster is used on both front seats, so you may want to have them replace the screws on passenger seat also.
Well, Nifty knows the Intrepid and the 300M share the same mold, but is not sure if they are the same colors, i.e., if Intrepid charcoal = 300M charcoal.
"YOU COULD ORDER THAT PART # THE ONLY DIFFERENCE MAY BE THE COLOR MAY NOT MATCH PERFECT FOR INTREPID AGAINST THE 300M BUT OTHER THAN THAT THEY ARE THE SAME MOLD YOU COULD ALSO BUY THROUGH SEARS SHOP AT HOME CATALOG PHONE # IS 800-500-5088 THEY WILL HAVE THE 300M #'S I GAVE YOU.
THANKS JEN"
Does anyone know if the Intrepid has "Agate" interior like the 300M?
I have a small place on the side of the console that needs to be touched up. Can you get paint that will match the console colors ? I think this is a light taupe. Thanks.......
Sorry i didn't get back to you right away...I have a 2001 M. I know Borla says 99-00 but it fits the 2001 as well. In fact, my M is in the shop now getting it installed as I write this. I'll let you know how I like it!(duh, that should say....how MUCH I like it)
The Feb 2002 issue of Mopar Action, page 71, has a full page ad about "High Performance Computer Upgrades" called the Optimizer II. It lists both the 300M and Intrepid. You send in your computer and they do the upgrade and ship it back by return overnight shipping (included) for $349.00
Comments
tks
I'm not sure about that yet. Could've been just new plugs. I think the Autolite Platinums would be cheaper to test that the Bosch if you wanna try them first.
As for the Paxton Supercharger, you can just get Av to make a custom hood with a hump or something to make things fit. I remember the old Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse having a hump on the hood, which I always assumed was because of the turbo charger.
I'm not sure about that yet. Could've been just new plugs. I think the Autolite Platinums would be cheaper to test that the Bosch if you wanna try them first.
As for the Paxton Supercharger, you can just get Av to make a custom hood with a hump or something to make things fit. I remember the old Eagle Talon and Mitsubishi Eclipse having a hump on the hood, which I always assumed was because of the turbo charger. If you're gonna spend 6,000 on a supercharger, then the custom hood cost is probably insignificant.
IF the BCM module IS the problem, don't let them put in a 'new' (read here as a repaired and put back in a new box..) module. Push for a brand-spanking-never-touched-by-human-hands module. My dealer put in one of those, and well, the result speaks for itself. Dealer says the module costs $1k.....ooch!
Doc
Thanks.......
Otherwise, it's prolly something the dealer needs to do
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1620463&a=12827118&f=0
There are many other options, all of which will enrich your local shop more than your listening pleasure. I have played serious large organ pieces with my setup and find nothing lacking in lowest bass. (Large organs have 16hz pipes).
Good luck!
Silver
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1620463&a=12630411&f=0
Here is a picture of the completed work, and one of the back of the car:
Thanks
I've seen the pictures of your rig and it is very nice, the dual exhuast seems to be ideal. But I am technically inept and would never dream of being able to accomplish this myself. At the same time I don't want to sink a ton of money in to the exhaust system. I'd love to boost performance a tad and add that aggressive sound, what's the best solution for me if someone else is going to have to do it and I don't want to get too spendy?
What you maybe should do is find a local performance exhaust shop and tell them what you want to do and work with them on design and pricing. I'm not sure where you're located, but if you're in Southern California I highly recommend Ed Hanson Performance Muffler outside San Diego.
"CHRYSLER 300M
PART#'S FOR CATCHALLS ARE THE SAME BUT HAVE DIFFERENT COLOR #'S
SEE BELOW
799642 - GREY
799653 - BEIGE
799649- CHARCOAL
PART#'S FOR EXTREME VINYL MATS
499602 - GREY
499612 - TAN
499601 - CHARCOAL"
I have replied, asking what Extreme Vinal Mats are, and if 300M = Intrepid as far as their products go, since I want to order a set through JCWhitney if we don't arrange a group discount. Further complicating things, JCW lists blue for the Intrepid mats, but Nifty does not list blue for its 300M mats. As far as I know, Intrepid should equal 300M.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1280646&a=9486000&f=0
tell me what you want, and give me your postal address.
New Exhaust Diagram
Also, here is a link to my "under the car" picture, lightened up a bit with some labels.
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/car/exhaust1.jpg
Hope this helps. Oh, if you're looking for "low cost" the Borla isn't for you. It will cost you $500 plus shipping, then you have to install it.
After reading your posts and seeing that you were around 500 with the system that you had done, I thought I should look at all the options, including the Borla system, and make a decision based on everything that I could learn from the experiences from owners on the board and the feedback I get from the shops I find. Your probably right, the Borla is probably not the way I would go, but wanted to have as much info as possible. Thanks again for your help.
Where are you? What's happening with your car? Are you still fighting with the insurance company?
fastdriver
sdmike - ahh, a main line kid huh?? I'd appreciate it though - thanks!
http://home.san.rr.com/ritchie/300m.mpg
http://home.san.rr.com/ritchie/300m8.avi
"dear Scott,
Thank you for your email. I suggest calling Chrysler to find out for sure if the
body styles are the same. Our vendor does not recommend it .
Roberta
JC Whitney Internet Customer Service"
on1wheel -- Go over there and straighten all of this out for us!
Thanks for the thoughts anyway. The car drives good although there is a really slight differance if brake feel. I have an appointment for friday morning.
So, Lolita is going back to the dealer for another warranty service. I get to drive another Cheep when I drop the M off at the dealer's.
Another couple of small probs with the M. 26k on the clock and running fine otherwise
I just got home and got your e-mail. No problem. I'll try to get it out to you before the week is over.
-M
As always, let us know what you find out.
"YOU COULD ORDER THAT PART # THE ONLY DIFFERENCE MAY BE THE COLOR
MAY NOT MATCH PERFECT FOR INTREPID AGAINST THE 300M BUT OTHER THAN THAT THEY
ARE THE SAME MOLD
YOU COULD ALSO BUY THROUGH SEARS SHOP AT HOME CATALOG
PHONE # IS 800-500-5088
THEY WILL HAVE THE 300M #'S I GAVE YOU.
THANKS
JEN"
Does anyone know if the Intrepid has "Agate" interior like the 300M?