i say tj300 is right. a voyager is no comparison. i don't even like saying the two words in the same sentance.
hey roger, got the side markers put on, and i did something a little different. i took the logos and put them behind the back doors about an inch below the crease for the top of the trunk and an inch away from the door. i think it looks real good.. i have taken pictures but the film wont be developed until the wood kit gets here, so i can put that on the same roll. i'll keep you informed, thanks roger!
just placed my order for 3 of the embroidered shirts with the "Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts" logo. Congrats on on great job, Rogor---the price I paid is less than I would have paid in a dept store for nonembroidered shirts. The price of membership is a bargain compared to the value I already received---
I hope to make the Club meet for the Woodward Cruise in Detroit in August.
Now how about getting us some removeable tatoos to sport on our arms when we cruise Woodward-- }
Keep up the good work ---the club is beating my expectations!
I went over to the my 5* and spoke with the service adviser today. I told him that I would be dropping off my "M" for service(Monday) for a slow window motor, speaker rattle, wheel vibration and tappet noise at start-up.
He told me I need to talk to Goodyear on the vibration, but they would be putting the car on their rack to "check it out".
He said on the tappett problem at start-up that a Mopar oil filter has a valve in it that prevents all the oil from making down to the oil pan. This leaves oil in the heads so at start-up there is oil there. He said that some brands of filters has this valve but not all and my oil filter could be the problem. Anybody heard of this "Valve" in the filter?
Here is a paragraph from that site that indicates that some filters do, indeed, have a no-drain valve.
"The construction of the anti-drainback and bypass valves is an important feature. Many are made of nitrile rubber. As long as they have good sealing surfaces, they generally work fine. However, nitrile rubber diaphrams gets stiff in extreme cold and may fail to seal in those conditions. Silicone rubber seals or steel valves are not prone to this. Many bypass valves are spring-loaded steel and work well. Some are spring-loaded plastic and are often not molded well enough to make a decent seal, allowing oil to leak passed them. "
If you scroll down to the Mopar section you'll find it has its own page. FYI, they seem to really like the Mobil 1 filter and the Purolator Pure One. They imply that all the Fram filters bite.
Hi folks, It's 10:23 am EAST and I've been trying to get connected to the 300M club chat room since West Wing ended 20 in. ago. Anyone else experiencing a similar problem? Sorry to post my query here, I'm trying to see if it's just me or perhaps something else in cyberspace.
Thanks, 10SC_300M Mike
P.. any other 300M folks in the great Volunteer State hang out here ?
Yes I Do! I live in Knoxville and actually visit Clarksvegas every now and then. My Bro & Sis in law live there. He's in the 101st. I did two tours at Ft. Campbell back in the early 80's. Are you on Active duty? Anyway glad to hear of a "local" 300M neighbor.
I agree with you, The 97 T&C handled very well. I made manuvers in it that most cars couldn't make. The ride seats are simular. I do not think that people give the Chrysler minivans enough credit in their handling. True they can not handle as well as the 300M but they are no slouch eather.
Yes, www.300mclub.org clicked link to club chat room. entered a nickname: 10SC_300M clicked connect. message: connected to chat.planetz.net:7000 waiting for data... times out. then message: connection to chat.planetz.net closed same results over and over since 10:03 EDST bummer!!!
Sounds like its coming from behind the spedo.. Any ideas? Would like to try and fix it myself. Any general things I can do to quies some dash rattles??
My service manager told me the same thing except that he thought my tappet noise could be caused by a non-Mopar filter such as the Fram. He said the Fram and some other filters do not oil for a very short period on cranking.
The noise actually wasn't in the tappets after all. The air conditioner clutch made a clicking noise for a few seconds after cranking and then the noise would go away very similar to tappet noise. Replacing the air conditioning clutch solved the problem.
Mike, its not the boring machine, it is a honing tool that attaches to a drill motor. They also make smaller ones used for brake wheel cylinders. You should be able to get one at almost any Napa store for around $20. The honing stones (3) are on spring tensioned levers which keep the pressure consistant and even on the bore. Its just an idea that may solve the problem.
My 5* attributed the noise to a canister purge solenoid. He replaced it and it seemed to stop the noise. But in my case the noise occurred more in cold weather and it been warm since.
I made a note of the brands to use besides Mopar and the other tappet noise solutions(A/C clutch and canister purge solenoid).
I get my "M"'s oil changed at Walmart since they are 1/2 mile away from my house. I use Pennzoil 10w-30 fully synthetic oil. I do not recall which brand of oil filter they use, but next time I will bring a Mobil 1 oil filter with me. In about two weeks I will need a change.
OK you gearheads, listen to this one. I stopped by a local lube/tuneup shop last night to inquire about servicing my M. I mentioned I had a K&N air filter and he commented that he had read of problems with the oil on the filter. The theory is that the oil can deposit on the mass oxygen sensor and cause it to give false readings to the computer.
Anyone else heard of this? If true, it can't be a good thing. Ideas, opinions?? If the oil can actually mix with the air, even in minute quantities, the theory seems to me to be valid. If you pass air through an oiled medium, looks like it's bound to bond with some of the oil on the way through. It started me thinking.
What do we have in the 300M that measures the amount of air coming into the engine at any given time? If there is a sensor for that in the direct airflow path, I assume that's what he was talking about.
We do have a MAP sensor, a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, but I don't believe that a small amount of oil on it would hurt it. Also if oil buildup would ruin that sensor, you'd have to be much more diligent about replacing PCV valves when they are due......
There's a MAP/air temp sensor, & a few others. The 300M is a speed densitiy setup. The basic difference is the 300M relies on different sensors for info. The MAS setup measures the real air going into the engine, after it hits the air filter, but before it gets to the throttle body.
Is there another source for a throttle body beside oem-carparts.com. They want $199, with the gasket & I have to wait 2 weeks for it. They have to order it.
We still have the rattle from behind the gauges all the time in our M. I don't know where exactly it is coming from or how to fix it, but mrl859 fixed his identical rattle by removing the windshield cowl and the wipers. From there he saw bolts going into the firewall area that he said were too long and some rubbed against other areas. He found that by moving them around so that the longer ones aren't in contact with anything else, the rattle went away. Again, I don't know if this would fix either of our cars but it may be a good try.
I did numerous things to try to cure the rattle and the one that worked the best was to remove the front windshield cowl and move the screws around and I noticed when the driver side section flexed against the rubber molding of the windshield it made a noise, kinda like a plastic flexing noise, so I roughed it up with my dremel... No more noises anymore! Just the sunroof, and I can expect that from a rubber on metal seal.
I wonder how many of the M's on the lots are sitting there with 30psi in the tires? The pressure label on the jamb recommends 30psi (at least in the Goodyears), and the car handles like a bowl of jelly with that little air in the tires. My M has been a bit mushy the last couple of days. Checked the tires and there was only about 30psi in each. I took them back up to 35psi where I normally keep them, and it handles tightly again. How many folks are getting M's with "underinflated" tires on test drives, and think the car handles poorly? My guess is quite a lot! If they only put 30 in them at the factory, there's no telling what's in them after shipment and sitting on the lot for a few weeks or longer. BTW, Saturday marks the one year anniversary of the purchase of my M. It was made sometime in April of 2000 (whish there was a way to tell the exact day). One exceptional year, and 19K perfectly happy miles!! Not a single problem! Love my M!
Why are there so few Pictures of our cars on there? Don't you all want to show off your car? I never get tired of looking at M's. Come on I showed you "mine" let me see "your's"!
Bobhex40 and Beach15:The dash rattle I fixed was corrected by one of two things which I did at the same time. 1)I tightened the bolts holding the plate where the heater hoses go through the firewall at dead center. 2) I took out all the screws that hold the cowl panles on and discovered that the bolts are not all the same length. One of the long ones was right in the middle and looked like it was hitting a metal support just underneath it. I moved the screws around so that the long ones could not touch anything, and reinstalled the cowl panels. Between those two items, the noise was solved. Host:I posted a similar message a few hours ago, but it never showed up. Do you know why?
Did you actually *see* your post after you posted?
I ask because the same thing has happened to me several times in the last few days. I think it is a WebCrossing issue, and I've asked that it be looked into.
What has happened to me is that I might take maybe ten minutes (guessing) to create a post, hit post, the topic redisplays and my post is *not* there.
I can fix that by hitting the back button of my browser, copying the post still in the post box, then hitting the forward button of the browser and pasting it into that post box. That works.
THAT is a pain. As I say I have reported it. I just wanted to pass on how I've been getting around it these last couple of days.
I'm sorry that happened to you.
Pat Host Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
OK, here's my contribution to the catalog of 300M mods. It won't make your M go faster, but maybe those with big feet will think it a good idea: My Mundane Mod
Russ, with your encyclopedic knowledge of the M, I'm surprised you didn't know that Chrysler switched mid-model-year-2000 to 17" wheels for the PHP M. When I went shopping, one dealer had an '00 demonstrator PHP with chrome 16" wheels, and another had a new '00 PHP with chrome 17" wheels. All the literature I had read said that PHP came with 16" wheels, so I was really wondering if the new one truly had PHP, but that dealer convinced me that it did (PHP was the one option I would not do without!). The new car was only $800 more than the demo (with 5,000 miles), and I decided I liked the 17" wheels better too, so I bought the new one. My guess, and it's just a guess, is that maybe the V-rated Michelins weren't made in the 17" size at first, so that's why PHP cars initially came with 16" wheels. I've had my car up to ~135, so I'm pretty sure it is PHP!
How about this, instead of buying another set of floor mats just glue a pair of your shoes to the smaller mats. When you get in slip your feet into the shoes. If your feet move so will the mat:)
Next time you try to log on the the chat room do not use your name. The first charcetor of the name must be a Letter. If you start the name with a number it will not let you in. I had the same problem (300Michael) so I change it to i300Michael and no problems. See you next week at the chat.
The problem with the oil on the sensors, is because of too much oil sprayed on the filter. Just spray enough to turn it red. Too much is worse than too little.
Russ, it's called "Dustin's Luck". No PHP with the 17's when I bought my car according to the dealer and DC's website (Y2K bought on May 19, 2000), but a month later it's available on the Y2K M! Just my luck! Club web site-I haven't checked it, but I do know that UUNET was having some big problems up North yesterday.My company's locations in Illinois (Chicago area) , Cleveland, and Baltimore were having problems as well, and we're on UUNET for all our T-1's there. Maybe it was all related.
It was black and it was dark out, so I did not see if it was base or SL or VR4. I think it was SL because VR4 would have wooped me. Instead I wooped this guy but he did not give up as easily as a base 3000GT would have. Maybe SL with stick.
Comments
i don't even like saying the two words in the same sentance.
hey roger, got the side markers put on, and i did something a little different. i took the logos and put them behind the back doors about an inch below the crease for the top of the trunk and an inch away from the door. i think it looks real good.. i have taken pictures but the film wont be developed until the wood kit gets here, so i can put that on the same roll. i'll keep you informed, thanks roger!
phases.
I hope to make the Club meet for the Woodward Cruise in Detroit in August.
Now how about getting us some removeable tatoos to sport on our arms when we cruise Woodward--
Keep up the good work ---the club is beating my expectations!
He told me I need to talk to Goodyear on the vibration, but they would be putting the car on their rack to "check it out".
He said on the tappett problem at start-up that a Mopar oil filter has a valve in it that prevents all the oil from making down to the oil pan. This leaves oil in the heads so at start-up there is oil there. He said that some brands of filters has this valve but not all and my oil filter could be the problem. Anybody heard of this "Valve" in the filter?
Oil Filter Test
"The construction of the anti-drainback and bypass valves is an important feature. Many are made of nitrile rubber. As long as they have good sealing surfaces, they generally work fine. However, nitrile rubber diaphrams gets stiff in extreme cold and may fail to seal in those conditions. Silicone rubber seals or steel valves are not prone to this. Many bypass valves are spring-loaded steel and work well. Some are spring-loaded plastic and are often not molded well enough to make a decent seal, allowing oil to leak passed them. "
It's 10:23 am EAST and I've been trying to get connected to the 300M club chat room since West Wing ended 20 in. ago.
Anyone else experiencing a similar problem?
Sorry to post my query here, I'm trying to see if it's just me or perhaps something else in cyberspace.
Thanks,
10SC_300M
Mike
P.. any other 300M folks in the great Volunteer State hang out here ?
phases
I live in Knoxville and actually visit Clarksvegas every now and then. My Bro & Sis in law live there. He's in the 101st. I did two tours at Ft. Campbell back in the early 80's.
Are you on Active duty? Anyway glad to hear of a "local" 300M neighbor.
10SC_300M
Mike
clicked link to club chat room.
entered a nickname: 10SC_300M
clicked connect.
message: connected to chat.planetz.net:7000 waiting for data...
times out. then message: connection to chat.planetz.net closed
same results over and over since 10:03 EDST
bummer!!!
From www.safetyforum.com Looks to be a pretty decent site.
The noise actually wasn't in the tappets after all. The air conditioner clutch made a clicking noise for a few seconds after cranking and then the noise would go away very similar to tappet noise. Replacing the air conditioning clutch solved the problem.
Keith
Mike
Click on Lemon Laundering and there's more interesting reading under the state pages.
http://www.safetyforum.com/cgi-bin/sn_search.cgi?ID=002002
fastdriver
I made a note of the brands to use besides Mopar and the other tappet noise solutions(A/C clutch and canister purge solenoid).
I get my "M"'s oil changed at Walmart since they are 1/2 mile away from my house. I use Pennzoil 10w-30 fully synthetic oil. I do not recall which brand of oil filter they use, but next time I will bring a Mobil 1 oil filter with me. In about two weeks I will need a change.
It is low maintainance, just wipe with a damp cloth.
Installation was easy, but I think I would pass on the dash vent trim if I had to do it over.
The molded kits are plastic, but since the Luxury Group includes real wood, all I needed were the matching supplemental pieces.
I am pleased with the result:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1501794&a=11408326
Anyone else heard of this? If true, it can't be a good thing. Ideas, opinions?? If the oil can actually mix with the air, even in minute quantities, the theory seems to me to be valid. If you pass air through an oiled medium, looks like it's bound to bond with some of the oil on the way through. It started me thinking.
There is a MAS Air Flow sensor, Then there's the Oxygen sensor.
Our 300M doesn't use MAS so it wouldn't matter, & the oxygen sensors are mounted all the way in the cats/header pipes.
So don't know what he ment.
Just my 1/16 of a cent.
Dave
Host:I posted a similar message a few hours ago, but it never showed up. Do you know why?
I ask because the same thing has happened to me several times in the last few days. I think it is a WebCrossing issue, and I've asked that it be looked into.
What has happened to me is that I might take maybe ten minutes (guessing) to create a post, hit post, the topic redisplays and my post is *not* there.
I can fix that by hitting the back button of my browser, copying the post still in the post box, then hitting the forward button of the browser and pasting it into that post box. That works.
THAT is a pain. As I say I have reported it. I just wanted to pass on how I've been getting around it these last couple of days.
I'm sorry that happened to you.
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
Sibe
I've had my car up to ~135, so I'm pretty sure it is PHP!
Club web site-I haven't checked it, but I do know that UUNET was having some big problems up North yesterday.My company's locations in Illinois (Chicago area) , Cleveland, and Baltimore were having problems as well, and we're on UUNET for all our T-1's there. Maybe it was all related.