I haven't installed one on an Odyssey, but I installed a Hidden Hitch (purchased on the internet) for my 01 Outback and it was very easy to install, and MUCH cheaper than the dealer would charge. The aftermarket hitch supports the towing capacity of the vehicle (3500 lbs in the case of the Odyssey, according to the marketing literature). I recall that installation on the Odyssey requires some temporary lowering of part of the exhaust system to get the hitch bolted on.
A friend and I installed a Reese Hitch on my 07. Only using my hitch for a bike rack...So no wiring. Had to lower the exhaust although it was easier than it sounds ...basically a hangar with a rubber sound mount had to be unhooked to let exhaust hang as we bolted the hitch into the pre drilled holes...then re hooked the exhaust. Took about 15 mins. Got my Hitch at USA-Trailer-Hitch.com.
I have a new 07 Odyssey with factory tow package, which only has a four wire connector. I need to tow a camper that has a seven pin round connector for electric brakes. Does anyone have any info or experience on installing a brake controller and how to convert the connector to a 7 pin round connector? Thank you, Steve
I have a similar issue with an 07 Odyssey. Do you have any info on how to install the brake controller onto the Odyssey brake switch? Did you have to run wiring from the 7 pin connector/adapter all the way back to the brake switch and controller? Thanks for any help.
We ordered our 07 Ody with "fenderwell trim", which I thought included the mud flaps (all the photos of "fenderwell trim" both on honda.com and in the brochure include mud flaps (splash guards) in the photo, which I think is a bit deceptive).
Anyway, no mud flaps and we're interested in getting them, but not interested in paying dealer retail for them at our local dealer's parts department. Does anyone know an online source for this option, which I figure I can install myself, that might be less expensive than my local dealer?
We just went to pick up the '07 Ody we ordered almost SIX weeks ago (wanted an interior/exterior combo they did not have on lot)--hubby meant to have the towing package added when we made some minor adjustments to the order over the phone, ended up with the trailer hitch instead. I have several related questions. First, when we were inspecting the vehicle before signing the paperwork, we noticed that they had cut (sawed) a notch in the rear bumper in order to allow for the trailer hitch--looked sloppy and like an after-thought. Dealer agreed that it was done poorly but said that they "always had to cut the notch, Honda doesn't do the trailer hitches at the factory". Really? Almost $40K for a car and they have to saw the bumper to get a Honda accessory to fit properly? So, we're in negotiations now. Easiest solution is to have them just remove the hitch and replace the bumper. However, we would like to have the ability to tow a small boat and trailer and wanted the towing package in the first place. Obstacle there is that we wanted it factory installed instead of at the dealer, assuming that would be best (perhaps no rough holes in the bumper?). Anyone have an idea of what a fair price would be for the complete towing package, and what do you think on whether or not we're getting the truth from our saleman regarding the installation issue on the trailer hitch (that it's never done at the factory and that the bumper "has" to be notched out to allow for it)? Thanks, thanks, thanks!
Thanks for pointing out the link--that was perfect...however, in looking as carefully as I could and acknowledging that I have zero hands-on experience in these things, it looks like the notch that the instructions refer to is on the underside of the bumper and would not be plainly visible when standing behind the vehicle. Ours had a large, jagged, rectangular cut-out with plenty of "air space" around the hitch if that makes sense--in the illustration, it looks like the hitch attaches in a way that the notch would be covered or at least concealed by the mounting bracket area of the hitch. The dealer acknowledged that the cut was "the sloppiest" he'd seen and that they would re-do it. We were really surprised that it looked so very different than the photos we were shown of the installed hitch, the same photo you see when you go to the link you sent--note that you can see the hitch and bumper quite well, but you cannot see any cutout in the bumper... in fact, while my husband was inside talking with the salesman about it, about 4 or 5 other salesmen came outside to look at our rear bumper--they were laughing and two of them took photos with their cell phones...I was sitting in another car with the children watching the commotion and thought it strange that they found the hitch so humorous.
Well then it sounds like they did a poor job of cutting it out. From the instructions, it looks like the cut out should be on the bottom side of the bumper. Perhaps the installer was a little overzealous with the rotozip.
Or perhaps they didn't use the OEM hitch and the aftermarket one requires a bigger cutout?? :confuse:
we have the factory hitch, installed but a local trailer shop. I made sure they made the smalles cut possible. The directions allow for more "free play" than needed. If they are careful, the notch doesn't have to hit the back part of the bumper, and once the hitch is on, you never notice it (unless you look at it from below).
The advantage is that the bumper, other than the receiver, is completely hidden, and sits as high as possible. You can get a (cheaper) aftermarket unit, requiring no cut, but the hitch frame will hang below the bumper.
I actually had them hold up one in place, and it looked so bad I went and bought the Honda unit, even though it probably cost ~$150 more installed.
I just picked up my 07 after the tow package was installed. Great job - slight gap around the hitch where the bumper was cut. can't really see it unless you get down on hte ground. Get the factory package with dealer installation - though mistakes can happen - it's not worth saving a few $ and get substandard parts. After i found out what was involved with the installation - the price really wasn't unreasonable.
Okay, well, our little issue has been resolved. It apparently was an OEM hitch, but the guy who did the install accidentally cut up into the outward facing side of the bumper (it really was quite apparent, going about a third of the way up the back of the bumper)--it really was not supposed to look like it did--dealer offered two options: 1. "neaten" up the cut-out around the hitch or 2. replace the bumper cover without the hitch and refund the hitch fees...the hole might have been less messy looking but would have still been there--they didn't offer to replace the bumper cover AND re-do the hitch properly, so we opted for the new bumper without the hitch... Anyway, just to clarify, aside from what really has been a small snafu, we are REALLY digging the new car :-) Still playing with all the buttons and figuring out controls, and yes, loving the minivan... Thanks again for the advice!
I bought an Ody EX-L. I live in Mass/NewHamshire area. Anyone could tell me where I can get the best price for the parking sensor package (I plan to install it myself). Thanks a lot.
May issue of CR has a piece about a wireless system you can install yourself for less than $100. CR says it is worth a look. It is from Virtual Reality Video Labs.
Thanks very much. You mean the upcoming issue of Consumer report (CR)? I see that the pdf file of installation of Honda sensors is overwhelming. I haven't found a video clip showing how to do that.
It would be very useful if you could give me your advises how to do the installation easily. I read the instruction (in pdf), feeling it's understandable (just a bit not clear at how to put back the power door control unit, if at its place there is already installed the sensor control unit, etc).
I think it's the matter if I can pluck the car panels out easily. There are lot of clips and tabs. Do you know there is any tricks or tools to do that, not damaging the car parts?
I am not feeling comfortable with tons of generic and cheap back-up sensors (not the back-up camera which I don't need) on the market. Their installation instruction is very generic (for any car) and short. When go to particular car, I think we have to do the same tasks as if installing the manufacturer parts - where to place the components, where to plug in and route the cables, where the power source is, etc.
I think Ody EX-L 07 comes with keyless entry and security system. Please correct me if I am wrong. Does anyone know if it also has remote start and remote window up/down feature as well?
I just had the Fenderwell Trim installed on my 2006 Odyssey.
The front trim involves the trim piece only and the rear includes the trim plus a rubber strip called an "inner protector".
The service tech warned that water can collect in the "inner protector" and cause rust. He suggested removing it once a year and making sure the area is clean and dry to avoid rust.
This got me thinking - should I just remove this "inner protector"? Or remove it now and wax that area thoroughly before putting it on again to fight rust?
I just recall how early 90s Accords all seemed to rust in that area.
Thoughts and advice are appreciated!
Note - You can see how the fenderwell trims are installed here:
in two years or less, are they likely to have seen it? would they be taking it off to inspect the fenderwell area? i think you're asking a question that isn't likely to be answered.
personally, w.r.t. additional trim like this or even bras, etc, i'd be weary of unnecessary dirt and water accumulation. i don't think appearence-wise or protection-wise they are necessary on the vehicle. and, i think they'd interfere with proper wax. also, i think these things are likely to cause paint color differences (what is protected / what isn't). which is another way of saying what is protected, long-term has to remain that way, or there's likely to be a paint coloration difference.
that's just one reader's opinion though.
if you really want to seek out an answer for this question, you might want to try posting in another ODY forum on another site that deals with appearence issues. another option is to speak to someone knowlegeable at a detailing or paint shop. this must be a common question, not specific to hondas.
yeah. enjoy them. just keep the vehicle clean and periodically waxed. if it isn't necessary, don't leave it exposed to sunlight... that is, enjoy it while it's not filled with dirty diapers, used juice boxes, cheese fish crackers, stale cereal bars, etc.
i think one thing i would have done (i have an LX with cloth) would be to apply more scotch-guard on the flooring to prevent stuff from staining. specially between the middle seats.
watch out for and immediately remove crayons. they melt!
four years into ownership, we don't have mud-flaps, no problems. just the typical dings and scratches from other stuff. :surprise:
wife asking now for a backup sensor or camera. hmmm.
Having owned our '05 Ody with OEM backup camera now for two years (and an '04 Lexus GX470 with same), I can say the sonic parking sensors are better than a camera IMHO. The rear camera easily gets dirty, sun washes it out, and if you really want to use it you have to wait for the NAV to boot. I'd spend the money on parking sensors before a camera.
Has anyone installed fog lights on a 2005-07 Odyssey? Is it easy or difficult? Is installing the switch easy? Is the minivan pre-wired, or is wiring necessary? Thanks for the help.
I just bought a 2007 Odyssey EXL-RES using Edmunds services. After purchase, thinking that NAV system would have been great. Is there any way I can get the RearView Camera with Navigation system (original Honda) installed or similar ones from other manufacturer installed on this vehicle?
Hmmm - I would think that would be a VERY expensive thing to retrofit, even if it were possible. I'm not completely familiar with the non-NAVI dashboard, but I believe you'd have to replace pretty much the whole thing to add NAVI. The rear-view camera would require considerable wiring as well as drilling a hole in the bodywork. My guess is it would be a lot cheaper to just buy a Touring or EXL with NAVI to begin with. Sorry!
I believe there's an alpine system that is very similar to the oem nav. AFAIK, there's no retrofit from Honda. Beyond the very nice integration, the actual nav system itself is subpar in terms of POI's and mapping. I have a five year old Garmin that is FAR more up-to-date than my OEM Ody system. What's really sad is the Honda system is actually a lot better than many other OEM systems!! I probably won't go with an OEM system again. The backup camera was a biggie, but after using it for two years (as I mentioned above) it's also subpar to a sonic parking system as well.
I bought the VR3 wireless camera reviewed in this months' Consumer Reports.
I will make a long story short(er) by leaving out my experiments and mistakes.
First, I removed the liftgate passenger side access panel for the taillights, and the access panel for the latch. A butterknife levered them loose.
I found that an old plastic driveway marker stake could be pushed from one to the other with a little bending.
The licence plate area proved difficult, and, finally, I drilled a hole for the wires. I suggest you drill about 2 inches directly bellow the driver side licence plate mount screw hole.
I fished a speaker wire through to pull the camera wire. From the drilled hole to the latch pannel, then to the taillight area.
The hole has to be large enough for the thicker base section of the camera power wire (I think that's where the antenna is) Check the supplied grommet, I think it requires a 3/8ths inch drill; and you can easly drill into the very soft steel.
The back-up light socket(top) power wires have a thick protective plastic surround; I cut it away and spliced the camera cord into the wires to the socket.
The outer pin on the plug is for the hot, positive wire and THE POSITIVE WIRE IS colored GREEN. The Ground wire is Blue.
Comments:
1. The electrical taps supplied are too big to work. So I spliced.
2. The camera is tilted down with 2 sets of plastic wedges; they don't tilt it enough. There should be additional wedges.
The view angle shows the ground about 4 feet behind the bumper. An object a foot high could be seen about 2 feet behind the bumper. The top of the view angle is about 20 degrees above horizontal. Width is just pass the width of my garage door opening- I can see the door frame when the car's rear is 4 feet from the door.
3. When the car enters reverse, the camera requires about 10-15 seconds to compensate for bright sun, and the picture to be clear. In reduced light, its instantly working.
4. This camera runs on the same frequency as wi-fi computers and Radio Shack's television senders, and X-10 cameras. There may be some momentary interference.
5. The monitor power cord is kinda short; I placed the monitor just above the dashboard air vent by the drivers' door, routing the cord from the power outlet over the steering collum.
2. About $120; if it was in stock at Wall-Mart, it would have been $70. Someone on E-Bay is selling them for less, but requires Paypal which I have problems with.
3. No. Picture is perfect after it stabilizes.
The Monitor can reverse and invert the picture, so I experimented on where to place the camera first...considered the spoiler and under the bumper.
4. Outside in, just next to the licence plate screw hole- after trying to find a way not to drill in. Adding the supplied grommit made me feel better, like the hole was well finished. I hated to drill too! Top layer of steel.
5. The interior of the hatch is more complex than you can believe! There are 2 licence plate lights, and you can probe past them all the way to the taillights, but that path is one layer removed from the taillight access.
6. In the Mc Donnald's parking lot I can see their roof! That's unnecessary, and I would prefer seeing lower, like the ground closser to the car. Its not bad, even a small child could be seen. Not hiting a car is also good, and it works for that.
Yes, less than $150 to save a life or even a dent is worth it.
7. No, its opperating on the 2.4 gigahertz band, but remember, its only on when your car is in reverse.
I took some photos, and can send them or post them if you like.
'03 ODY. Wife wanted one. Doesn't need it for parking. She's the parallel parking guru. Worried about small children behind vehicle.
Shopped the local Walmart but they were out of stock.
Got mine at Pepboys. $119.00USD with $20 mail in rebate through May 5th, making effective cost $99.00USD.
This was the 4 button version (which is what I wanted) over a 2 button version I saw in Target recently. The extra buttons provide Contrast and Brightness controls. They are worth searching for the 4 button version!
First I removed passenger access panel in the hatch using a putty knife. Anything thin will work.
I decided not to go the fishing of wires route. I decided to remove the screws holding the handle on the rear hatch (remove the rubberized screw concealers using the putty knife or a thin screwdriver). Unscrew and remove. Also removed the two plasic screws and pressure fittings on either side of the lock assembly mounted on the hatch. With the screws out, use the putty knife to get the pressure fittings out.
Then I carefully pulled the plastic hatch covering from the hatch at 4 points: 2 lower-most corners, and 2 points not far from the right and left lamp access panels.
Doing this allowed me to stick my whole arm up into the hatch and fish the wire over to the passenger side bulb access panel.
Removing one of the plastic license plate fixture/holders allowed enough light so I could visually see where the wire would be entering the vehicle once I drilled a hole.
I drilled a hole in the hatch just to the right and just below the square hole that the license plate fixture/holder is placed into that I had temporarily removed.
When wiring the camera to the backup light (black was GND, and green was +12VDC on the '03..I verified this with a voltmeter), I then used a cheap $4.95 wire stipper/cutter. I just made a small circular cut essentially around the backup bulb wires and pulled the insulation back to reveal the wires. No cutting of the wires was necessary!!!
Any sharp knife, razor blade would do the same for someone else. This left the wiring to the backup bulb intact and a place for me to loop and mechanically/electrically make a good connection with the camera power leads.
I could have soldered it but didn't. I can always do this in the future if I like.
Anyway, on the camera leads, I stripped more insulation so I had a good 1.5inches. I made a good mechanical connection of the camera leads to the backup bulb leads where the insulation was exposed, and taped it off with electrical tape. The splicers supplied with the kit are inferior to the connections which I made. I am certain of this.
On the '03 dash, there is plenty of dash area to mount the supplied velcro pieces above the mirror adjustment and to the left of the TCS On/Off control buttons. This is to the driver's left side. The color monitor mounts to one piece of the velcro, and the other piece of mating material to the dash. When pressed together, the monitor is flush with the dash. Results of monitor placement and wire hiding are rather decent looking if I say so myself.
In addition, I purchased a 4-5 dollar Cigarette Lighter Power Splitter made by Bell (also at PepBoys). Wife can still use her cell phone adapter, or we can use a power invertor we have (we use a laptop to play DVDs for the kids on long trips) without unpugging the camera.
I routed the power wire from the plug inserted into one of the female recepticles of the Bell Cig Lighter Slitter to the left side of the center storage bin, up into the wiring behind the dash, over the steering column, down near the left side of the dash, then up towards the driver's vent in the general area where I mounted the monitor. I did not use the little monitor holder.
Works pretty darn well. Wife says it's "awesome".
There is a little interference in our driveway (we have a Linksys Router) and the instructions do say there could be interference with other 2.4GHz devices. In the nearby cul-de-sac, I had no interference at all.
I think if someone is interested in one of these devices, they should search out the 4 button version. I think the 2 button version was the predicessor product, and I personally feel less valuable.
Hope this helps someone.
Thanks library1 for being the first to report your results and encourage me to jump into the project. I'm glad I did. Not much effort. Results worth it.
I just did this on an '07 Ody and I would classify it as VERY difficult. It is a two person job at times. The front bumper has to be removed and the black area where the lights go has to be removed. I thought this would be the hard part. As it turned out, that was hard but installing the provided wiring loom is far harder. I now see why a dealer gets so much for fog lights. Google bernardi.com and find the lights. Then download the installation manual and it will give you an idea of difficulty. The switch installation is VERY difficult. Read the installation manual and if you have doubts.....DON'T DO IT! :sick:
Unless you're really handy, I don't suggest buying this product. Installation is not as easy as 1..2..3 as advertised. :mad: I bought one from Walmart but will return very soon. I will just have to be very vigilant while backing up.
i installed one this weekend. it really wasn't bad.
what year odyssey?
most likely, your back hatch has two access panels. you can pry one out with a butter, steak, putty knife, or anything else that is thin.
you can do that right?
now then, on my O3, with the hatch open and up, I pulled down on the panelling of the hatch at the points closest to the bottom corners of the hatch (right and left side). the panel is attached in such a way that it can be pulled away from the hatch, and popped back into place. *but* you have to take the hatch handle off, and also two platic screws on either side of the hatch latch mechanism (very bottom of hatch.
can you get that far?
if you can, it is a relative cake walk.
not that i want to encourage you to do something you feel is truly beyond your capability, but like i said, it's not bad.
i didn't take the panel off. i merely detached enough of the bottom of it so i could reach up into the hatch with my hand, and physically route the wire from the hole i drilled over to the access panel, where i made the connection of camera power to the backup bulb.
Comments
Thank you,
Steve
Thanks for any help.
Anyway, no mud flaps and we're interested in getting them, but not interested in paying dealer retail for them at our local dealer's parts department. Does anyone know an online source for this option, which I figure I can install myself, that might be less expensive than my local dealer?
Thanks!
Thanks, thanks, thanks!
All Honda accessories are dealer installed - Honda does not offer factory options.
According the installation instructions for the hitch at that same site, you will note on page 3 that you do have to cut a notch in the bumper.
in fact, while my husband was inside talking with the salesman about it, about 4 or 5 other salesmen came outside to look at our rear bumper--they were laughing and two of them took photos with their cell phones...I was sitting in another car with the children watching the commotion and thought it strange that they found the hitch so humorous.
Or perhaps they didn't use the OEM hitch and the aftermarket one requires a bigger cutout?? :confuse:
The advantage is that the bumper, other than the receiver, is completely hidden, and sits as high as possible. You can get a (cheaper) aftermarket unit, requiring no cut, but the hitch frame will hang below the bumper.
I actually had them hold up one in place, and it looked so bad I went and bought the Honda unit, even though it probably cost ~$150 more installed.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2. replace the bumper cover without the hitch and refund the hitch fees...the hole might have been less messy looking but would have still been there--they didn't offer to replace the bumper cover AND re-do the hitch properly, so we opted for the new bumper without the hitch...
Anyway, just to clarify, aside from what really has been a small snafu, we are REALLY digging the new car :-) Still playing with all the buttons and figuring out controls, and yes, loving the minivan...
Thanks again for the advice!
I see that the pdf file of installation of Honda sensors is overwhelming. I haven't found a video clip showing how to do that.
I think it's the matter if I can pluck the car panels out easily. There are lot of clips and tabs. Do you know there is any tricks or tools to do that, not damaging the car parts?
I am not feeling comfortable with tons of generic and cheap back-up sensors (not the back-up camera which I don't need) on the market. Their installation instruction is very generic (for any car) and short. When go to particular car, I think we have to do the same tasks as if installing the manufacturer parts - where to place the components, where to plug in and route the cables, where the power source is, etc.
Thanks in advance
The front trim involves the trim piece only and the rear includes the trim plus a rubber strip called an "inner protector".
The service tech warned that water can collect in the "inner protector" and cause rust. He suggested removing it once a year and making sure the area is clean and dry to avoid rust.
This got me thinking - should I just remove this "inner protector"? Or remove it now and wax that area thoroughly before putting it on again to fight rust?
I just recall how early 90s Accords all seemed to rust in that area.
Thoughts and advice are appreciated!
Note - You can see how the fenderwell trims are installed here:
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/gen3_odyssey/fenderwelltrim.pdf
personally, w.r.t. additional trim like this or even bras, etc, i'd be weary of unnecessary dirt and water accumulation. i don't think appearence-wise or protection-wise they are necessary on the vehicle. and, i think they'd interfere with proper wax. also, i think these things are likely to cause paint color differences (what is protected / what isn't). which is another way of saying what is protected, long-term has to remain that way, or there's likely to be a paint coloration difference.
that's just one reader's opinion though.
if you really want to seek out an answer for this question, you might want to try posting in another ODY forum on another site that deals with appearence issues. another option is to speak to someone knowlegeable at a detailing or paint shop. this must be a common question, not specific to hondas.
I guess the same arguments could be made against the splash guards / mudguards which I also put on my cars to protect the rocker panel.
Now that they are on, I need to enjoy the protection and keep on eye on them for water accumulation.
i think one thing i would have done (i have an LX with cloth) would be to apply more scotch-guard on the flooring to prevent stuff from staining. specially between the middle seats.
watch out for and immediately remove crayons. they melt!
four years into ownership, we don't have mud-flaps, no problems. just the typical dings and scratches from other stuff. :surprise:
wife asking now for a backup sensor or camera. hmmm.
I just bought a 2007 Odyssey EXL-RES using Edmunds services. After purchase, thinking that NAV system would have been great. Is there any way I can get the RearView Camera with Navigation system (original Honda) installed or similar ones from other manufacturer installed on this vehicle?
Thanks
I will make a long story short(er) by leaving out my experiments and mistakes.
First, I removed the liftgate passenger side access panel for the taillights, and the access panel for the latch. A butterknife levered them loose.
I found that an old plastic driveway marker stake could be pushed from one to the other with a little bending.
The licence plate area proved difficult, and, finally, I drilled a hole for the wires. I suggest you drill about 2 inches directly bellow the driver side licence plate mount screw hole.
I fished a speaker wire through to pull the camera wire. From the drilled hole to the latch pannel, then to the taillight area.
The hole has to be large enough for the thicker base section of the camera power wire (I think that's where the antenna is) Check the supplied grommet, I think it requires a 3/8ths inch drill; and you can easly drill into the very soft steel.
The back-up light socket(top) power wires have a thick protective plastic surround; I cut it away and spliced the camera cord into the wires to the socket.
The outer pin on the plug is for the hot, positive wire and THE POSITIVE WIRE IS colored GREEN. The Ground wire is Blue.
Comments:
1. The electrical taps supplied are too big to work. So I spliced.
2. The camera is tilted down with 2 sets of plastic wedges; they don't tilt it enough. There should be additional wedges.
The view angle shows the ground about 4 feet behind the bumper. An object a foot high could be seen about 2 feet behind the bumper. The top of the view angle is about 20 degrees above horizontal. Width is just pass the width of my garage door opening- I can see the door frame when the car's rear is 4 feet from the door.
3. When the car enters reverse, the camera requires about 10-15 seconds to compensate for bright sun, and the picture to be clear. In reduced light, its instantly working.
4. This camera runs on the same frequency as wi-fi computers and Radio Shack's television senders, and X-10 cameras. There may be some momentary interference.
5. The monitor power cord is kinda short; I placed the monitor just above the dashboard air vent by the drivers' door, routing the cord from the power outlet over the steering collum.
6. It works!
questions:
1). where did you purchase it?
2). how much?
3). does the VR3 you purchased have the contrast control buttons?
4). did you drill from the inside of the vehicle out or from the outside in?
5). could you have gone through the license plate light lense? (i kind of hate to drill through the body).
6). is your intent to lessen the likelyhood of hitting an object (parking / tilt down) or a person (tilt up)?
ultimately, do you think the device is worth it?
comment: it may interfere with bluetooth.
7). any mention of interference with bluetooth phone accessories in the instructions?
2. About $120; if it was in stock at Wall-Mart, it would have been $70. Someone on E-Bay is selling them for less, but requires Paypal which I have problems with.
3. No. Picture is perfect after it stabilizes.
The Monitor can reverse and invert the picture, so I experimented on where to place the camera first...considered the spoiler and under the bumper.
4. Outside in, just next to the licence plate screw hole- after trying to find a way not to drill in. Adding the supplied grommit made me feel better, like the hole was well finished. I hated to drill too! Top layer of steel.
5. The interior of the hatch is more complex than you can believe! There are 2 licence plate lights, and you can probe past them all the way to the taillights, but that path is one layer removed from the taillight access.
6. In the Mc Donnald's parking lot I can see their roof! That's unnecessary, and I would prefer seeing lower, like the ground closser to the car. Its not bad, even a small child could be seen. Not hiting a car is also good, and it works for that.
Yes, less than $150 to save a life or even a dent is worth it.
7. No, its opperating on the 2.4 gigahertz band, but remember, its only on when your car is in reverse.
I took some photos, and can send them or post them if you like.
Shopped the local Walmart but they were out of stock.
Got mine at Pepboys. $119.00USD with $20 mail in rebate through May 5th, making effective cost $99.00USD.
This was the 4 button version (which is what I wanted) over a 2 button version I saw in Target recently. The extra buttons provide Contrast and Brightness controls. They are worth searching for the 4 button version!
First I removed passenger access panel in the hatch using a putty knife. Anything thin will work.
I decided not to go the fishing of wires route. I decided to remove the screws holding the handle on the rear hatch (remove the rubberized screw concealers using the putty knife or a thin screwdriver). Unscrew and remove. Also removed the two plasic screws and pressure fittings on either side of the lock assembly mounted on the hatch. With the screws out, use the putty knife to get the pressure fittings out.
Then I carefully pulled the plastic hatch covering from the hatch at 4 points: 2 lower-most corners, and 2 points not far from the right and left lamp access panels.
Doing this allowed me to stick my whole arm up into the hatch and fish the wire over to the passenger side bulb access panel.
Removing one of the plastic license plate fixture/holders allowed enough light so I could visually see where the wire would be entering the vehicle once I drilled a hole.
I drilled a hole in the hatch just to the right and just below the square hole that the license plate fixture/holder is placed into that I had temporarily removed.
When wiring the camera to the backup light (black was GND, and green was +12VDC on the '03..I verified this with a voltmeter), I then used a cheap $4.95 wire stipper/cutter. I just made a small circular cut essentially around the backup bulb wires and pulled the insulation back to reveal the wires. No cutting of the wires was necessary!!!
Any sharp knife, razor blade would do the same for someone else. This left the wiring to the backup bulb intact and a place for me to loop and mechanically/electrically make a good connection with the camera power leads.
I could have soldered it but didn't. I can always do this in the future if I like.
Anyway, on the camera leads, I stripped more insulation so I had a good 1.5inches. I made a good mechanical connection of the camera leads to the backup bulb leads where the insulation was exposed, and taped it off with electrical tape. The splicers supplied with the kit are inferior to the connections which I made. I am certain of this.
On the '03 dash, there is plenty of dash area to mount the supplied velcro pieces above the mirror adjustment and to the left of the TCS On/Off control buttons. This is to the driver's left side. The color monitor mounts to one piece of the velcro, and the other piece of mating material to the dash. When pressed together, the monitor is flush with the dash. Results of monitor placement and wire hiding are rather decent looking if I say so myself.
In addition, I purchased a 4-5 dollar Cigarette Lighter Power Splitter made by Bell (also at PepBoys). Wife can still use her cell phone adapter, or we can use a power invertor we have (we use a laptop to play DVDs for the kids on long trips) without unpugging the camera.
I routed the power wire from the plug inserted into one of the female recepticles of the Bell Cig Lighter Slitter to the left side of the center storage bin, up into the wiring behind the dash, over the steering column, down near the left side of the dash, then up towards the driver's vent in the general area where I mounted the monitor. I did not use the little monitor holder.
Works pretty darn well. Wife says it's "awesome".
There is a little interference in our driveway (we have a Linksys Router) and the instructions do say there could be interference with other 2.4GHz devices. In the nearby cul-de-sac, I had no interference at all.
I think if someone is interested in one of these devices, they should search out the 4 button version. I think the 2 button version was the predicessor product, and I personally feel less valuable.
Hope this helps someone.
Thanks library1 for being the first to report your results and encourage me to jump into the project. I'm glad I did. Not much effort. Results worth it.
Yakima vs Thule? Vanilla vs Chocoalte - you can't go wrong with either.
what year odyssey?
most likely, your back hatch has two access panels. you can pry one out with a butter, steak, putty knife, or anything else that is thin.
you can do that right?
now then, on my O3, with the hatch open and up, I pulled down on the panelling of the hatch at the points closest to the bottom corners of the hatch (right and left side). the panel is attached in such a way that it can be pulled away from the hatch, and popped back into place. *but* you have to take the hatch handle off, and also two platic screws on either side of the hatch latch mechanism (very bottom of hatch.
can you get that far?
if you can, it is a relative cake walk.
not that i want to encourage you to do something you feel is truly beyond your capability, but like i said, it's not bad.
i haven't tried taking the panel off.