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Comments
Dinu
don't get red chipro.
I am just kidding.
--Dale
What aspect of the design gives the PRO this feedback?
Chikoo: The teacher knows and sees EVRYTHING!
Dinu
-LK
-lovetrain
Yes, I'm listening.
Dinu
The insurance company gave me $19,800 for the car so I picked up another SI (same color) on Wednesday for $16,900 (with foglights, mud guards, and mats). I thought about waiting to buy another one until the Mazda 6, Accord coupe, and 03 SI's came out but I couldn't wait that long. I looked at a P5/Protege but with them being redesigned soon I would hate to buy a car that's about to be redesigned. You always want the newest version ya know?
Yeap, but try to avoid buying a car in its first year of existence. More than few of us are pretty skeptical about the next generation of Protege/P5 because of they share the same platform with Ford's.
Bruno
Bruno
Also, any rave Auto Museums you can recommend in that same area? I've already been to the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, Auburn/Cord/Duesenberg and Ray Miller museums in Indiana, and the Gilmore in Michigan (and those are all great I might add).
if you get tire in anything less than the H-rated and profile any greater than 55, you will end up with the dull centre!!
Many of us like to be more conservative, so we choose 3,000 miles for our oil and oil filter change. Now, if that seems overly expensive or inconvenient, consider the following:
The most-modern of motor cars in its own time (and a wonderful technological marvel it truly was) --- the 1930-1932 Model L29 Cord --- had the following manufacturer's service recommendations:
Engine: Every 500 miles, change oil (8 quarts)
Engine: Every 8,000 to 10,000 miles, change oil filter (WOW !!!)
Chassis: Daily, or every 100 miles, depress lubricator pedal
Generator: Every 1,000 miles, add 8/10drops of oil to front and rear cap oilers
Starter: Every 1,000 miles, add 8/10drops of oil to oiler
Distributor: Every 1,000 miles, oil breaker arm pivots, give grease cup one turn, lube cam with vaseline
Wheel universals: Every 2,000 miles, lube
Drag link: Every 500 miles, add grease
Front tie rod: Every 500 miles, add grease
Rear wheel bearings: Every 3 to 6 months, clean and repack
Front wheel bearings: Every 3 to 6 months, clean and repack
Steering gear: Every 500 miles, top off oil
We really have it easy today don't we?
I took had the dealer that installed in check it out and they said it was up to specs in both performance and placement, but 10-20 degrees seem to be very inaccurate. Any ideas?
Can you "fix" this? I don't know. I'd imagine that it would be difficult to insolate the temp gauge from heat diffusion off the car while still being able to measure external air temp.
Actually, if you think about how much heat an engine, exhaust, or even brakes, give off, and how quickly heat diffuses in air, 10-20 degrees is not too bad.
I returned 20 minutes later to jump start the car - assuming that I had a dead battery and the car started without even having to jump start it. I drove it the rest of the week without problems.
However, last Friday I tried to start my car after driving it earlier that morning, and the car was dead. I tried to jump start the battery but I couldnt even get the car to turn over. I took the battery out and took it to the auto store and they said the battery was dead. I bought a new one and the car is still dead. The dashboard lights work but the car won't even turn over. And, after using my keyless remote to open the car, the powerlocks and windows will not work.
Is this a starter problem? An alternator problem? An electrical problem?
Just trying to see if this is going to be a major repair job, I have had problems with the car 3x in the 1st 55k miles (brakes went out in 1st 20k, blown transmission at 25k, and the faulty air sensor at 40k).
Anyone else?
Dinu
I was thinking that perhaps one of the solenoids (sp?) went out on the starter and that somehow my battery went kaput also. I know the timing is coincidental.
But I dont know how to explain why I lose power when I try to start it (unless the starter is bad too).
And when it was running, I couldnt tell that there was any problems with it. Now I can't even get the damn thing started again.
Anyways - any other thoughts are definitely appreciated.
Bruno
Good luck with the car.
Do your lights turn on (even dimly) right after you install a new battery?
Electrical problems can be a pain to nail down as it could be problems with loose connections, worn insulation, a short or an open circuit in a component. It can take a while, even with circuit diagrams, to find the problem. However, once found, electrical problems usually are easy to fix.
However, as mentioned, depending on the failure, one component failing may have put extra load on other components, causing them to fail too. Good luck.
Here's hoping its just the altenator.
Anyways - thanks for everyone's help - I will write again when they diagnose the problem(s).
Dinu
for 20k you get, as Sport Compact Car said, "the new measuring stick in sport compact car performance," topping the almighty Integra Type R, I'd say it's a great deal.
and the Type R was, what, 25k+ I think?
depends on what you want, more space and comfort or MAXIMUM performance for the money (20k)
Then again, the RX8 will have a 10 cu ft trunk (just barely usable, for me anyway) and bucket seats for 4, with 4 usable doors, while being very sporty and having decent performance numbers for starting just under $30k.
I think they're starting to hint at a future RX7 (see this month's R&T), which hinges upon success of the RX8 (will be a 2-dr, 2-seater) and the next Miata (possible rotary engine option). Then again, these might just be feelers.
Grrr...must have gotten a lemon with this one.
Peace and thanks.
So far as cost, what's the cause? I guess they can't use the original cable to snake the replacements since they probably removed them for inspection. And I think the ground cable is fairly short. I'll have to take a peek at my set-up.
And one problem in 3 years and 54K miles hardly do a lemon make. It could have been worse. Good luck with the car.
Lucky me, my previous diagnostic "cable went bad" is almost right.
Bruno
I wish this was my 1st problem. I had to replace the brake pads AND the transmission in the 1st 30k miles. The air sensor (the mysterious check engine light) came on at about 40k miles. And, I have had a weird problem with the white keylock cover on the driver side door disentagrating.
Not a slam on Mazda or the Proteges at all, but I think I have had more than my share of problems with it.
Peace.
Yes, I know, it's not really $2 for the cables. I'm exaggerating, folks.
I think I'd pay to have it towed home, and do it myself - finding a new route for the damn cables if need be. $600? Ouch.
Actually, I'd probably say goodbye to the $600 and let them do it at that point. Oh well, better luck next time.