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Comments
Norcan
Yeah, the 1.6L has less oomph, but is a smooth-running, rev-happy engine. I wouldn't mind more power though. Well, as long as I can still get decent fuel economy.
I just changed my oil at about 23,400 miles (I change more by season than mileage or # of months). I have not noticed any oil consumption.
Regarding the A/T's funny shifting, I can get mine to "stumble" if I let off the gas and then stomp on the accelerator. I give it about a second before stepping on the gas, and it doesn't do that. Quirky, yes, avoidable, yes.
Other than that, the A/T shifts smoothly, and its shift points change with your driving style (it allows the engine to rev higher when you give it more gas).
It feels best in 3rd gear, at about 3000rpm. Just the right range for merging onto the freeway.
Anyway, my economy is a little over 29mpg with mostly local driving (about 70/30, probably higher). That's averaged out over the 3+ years I've had it.
BTW, I finally got a set of "Rhino" ramps (mfr'd or distributed by "Blitz") at my local Autozone. These fit fine under my Pro, unlike the set of metal ones I got before. I was stuck for someplace to store them, but discovered they serve well as parking stops in my garage, under the front of my Pro!
Thanks to whoever recommended these (sorry, my short-term memory's not what it used to be)! Now I don't have to jack up my car everytime I want to drain the oil pan.
http://www.veh-tech.net/
They have a couple stories about Mazda, one about Familia (Protege) production for the Phillipines market & sourcing of purchased components through Ford, the other about some customized Roadster (Miata) that is tailored for some race series. Uh-oh, I hope the high quality and reliability of our Pros can be kept up!
Oh yeah, they have some article about the Honda Civic Gas/Electric hybrid too. Guess my wife will be interested in that one.
Floridian
I know this topic has been beaten to a pulp in the past, but can anyone recommend a replacement tire for the stock 14" Firestones? I want something that is good in all seasons and has the same good looks as the Potenzas.
and it stalled several times, then, the check engine light started first blinking and then went into the constant mode. I suspected that one of the spark plugs was misfiring, therefore, I stopped the car decided to check the engine, when I stepped out I felt a very strong H2S smell - probably coming from the catalytic converter ??? I tried to tighten the plug caps, started the car; same thing .. it was very frustrating;
Then I decided to drive home slowly, since I was just a block away; after driving for a couple of hundred feet with that rattle and the check engine light on, suddenly, it just started firing with the proper timing ... however my check engine light is still on.
I'd like hear comments from you folks whether the following explanation makes sense:
I believe: because of a spark plug and/or electrical cable
problem the engine misfired which eventually lead to some unburned fuel reaching into the catalytic converter causing it to overheat.
My car should still be under warranty (3/50k) but I wonder whether this type of problem would be within the coverage defined by Mazda?
Please let me know what you guys think about this?
Don't you trust the engineers who designed it?
My Pro LX 2.0L A/T is running fine. I didn't do anything the book doesn't recommend. The fuel economy is great and it runs like a...well...a PRO. It's joy to drive and I have no plans to change anything.
Isn't that what it is designed to do?
Personalize your Pros in some way that doesn't screw up the mechanicals and you will be a lot happier. Paint flames on the doors! LOL
fowler3
I can't say I know what could cause a burnt popcorn smell, but burnt rubber doesn't smell like that to me. Some plastics do smell like burnt nuts, though (acrylic especially, but resins like ABS and nylon are more likely to be under the hood). There may be some wiring harness or hose out of place, so I'd search for the smell and use a strong light to look for burnt plastic or rubber.
The 'check engine' light will probably have to be reset by the dealer. There's a memory buffer that needs to be cleared before the light will go out.
You're car's almost certainly fine. I used to have this problem with my Maxima all the time -apparently it was very common. Get it checked out sooner rather than later for your own piece of mind, though.
Regards,
cp
Thanks for a number of quick replies. I will definitely take my car to the dealer. The nearest dealer to our place is ~20 miles south and every morning, my wife drives ~20 miles to the North; so it is really very inconvenient for me to drop my wife and take the car to the dealer (approx. 60 miles) in a weekday in Boston traffic; then taking the train back to downtown ...we'll see; I guess I have to do it, as you guys suggested, for the sake of "peace of mind!", even tough the car runs fine now.
Thanks,
The only thing the MX6 might need soon is a new clutch.
Enjoy the Jetta and I hope it stays trouble free. I really looked at Golfs when I bought our Sentra in April (that car now traded for the WRX), but the reliability turned me off. I have to have a reliable car. Hope VW reliablity comes up-it's about time.
That's a bit like saying a Ford has a Mercury engine.
The 2.0 and VR6 are both considered to be reletively trouble free as well... now.
The problems with VW's are not the drivetrain, it's the little stuff. Window Regulators, electrical gremlins, sensors, trim, etc, etc. All exasperated by the worst dealer/service network in the US(IMO).
I had the 1.8T in my Passat and loved it, not one problem in 2 years/40k miles with the engine. But I had plenty of other stuff. Enough that I won't buy another VW, but not so many that I will trash the brand either.
Meade
anyway, the next size is 205/55/VR15 AVID V4. Any ideas on how good are they?
Did not find too many reviews on tirerack.
Chikoo: you can ask for a discount and have them installed somewhere else. I read somewhere (can't remember where) that you should stick to the original speed rating though.
Pros:
Tilt/telescoping steering wheel
Feels tight, handles well, yet rides good
Keyless entry opens wagon door
High quality interior materials (Is this a Ford? My Mustang's interior was made out of cardboard!)
Roomy
Fun to drive
Cons:
Funky interior and exterior styling (I know styling is a subjective thing, but I don't know who could argue that the Focus is better looking than a Protege)
Recall history (who knows, maybe they ironed out all the bugs for 2002)
Coarse, gruff sounding engine (2.0L DOHC "zetec") compared to the Protege
Conclusion: I think the Protege and Focus are remarkably similiar cars in the way they handle, their power output, and their european feel. While I am biased towards the Protege, I think Ford and Mazda have two of the best small sedan/wagons on the market. I've driven the new Corolla and Civic. The Corolla is painfully bland and the Civic is, well, a Civic.
-vocus
Well warped rotors can be identified replaced and repaired. I hope the V-dub techs can find and fix those elusive irritating rattles? :-)
-Larry
Focus looks better than pro? Maybe more modern, but a bit awkward to my eyes.
Paul ... warped rotors are not the fault of the car. The driver warps the rotors. As for rattles ... how hard do you slam your doors?
Just thought I'd share. 'Tis the season, after all.
Meade
My dad has had four Ford Taurus for company cars, and everyone has needed new rotors after about 25k miles. He only has these problems on that car, so in that case its probably cheap parts. Anyway, that's just my thought. I would rather have warped rotors than rattles, because its a heck of a lot easier to fix the former.
Steve
Meade
That's why I've started doing it myself.
Rotors warp because (1) the driver drives too aggressively, causing the brakes to overheat; and then (2) does not allow the rotors to cool properly. It is not the fault of the car -- it's the fault of the driver.
And oh sure, improperly torqued lug nuts also are blamed for warped rotors. Again, not the fault of the car.
Meade
BTW, post #6539 was put up before I saw #6538
Also, I passed 9k miles on my 01 ES that I got mid February.
Steve
I can't wash at home, because I live in an apt building. How about if I drive a few blocks to one of those DIY places? Will the rotors still be cool enough if that's my first stop of the day? And then should I let the car sit a while? Had no idea that cars were so sensitive.
You ever pulled the coffee pot off the burner and had a drop or two hit the hot plate underneath it? Notice the fizzle and spray as the water instantly changes to steam? Now imagine getting your hose out and dousing that plate with cold water. Probably crack, wouldn't it?
Would you spray cold water on your hot exhaust manifold?
It's not a sensitivity issue ... it's a sensibility issue. Just give the car a chance to cool down a little. I've taken my car to the "Car Pool" before, where they vacuum your car prior to washing it. Usually the 20 minutes or so that it takes to wait in line and have the car vacuumed is enough cool-down time so the rotors don't sizzle and steam when the water hits 'em.
Meade
I wasn't trying to be a wise guy in my previous post...you've got me totally convinced: no cold water on the rotors (whatever and wherever they are). I went to the CarTalk link (thanks for that, btw) and read the info there, too. So now I just want to be sure I don't shock any part of my car into warping...
They should probably make new car owners like myself take some sort of test on the parts of the car before we take delivery
YEAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!
JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Meade
Meade
Love and kisses,
MS. Chicagopro
I will say however that your more likely to find a guy that is a car nut than a women that's a car nut. I think I only personally know one female car nut. Of course the rest of my guy friends don't know a thing about cars. (chuckle)
It pays to shop around. When I have to replace mine, I'll go with a nice set of drilled aftermarket units.