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Mazda Protegé



  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    don't be so sure.

    Our Ford powered MPV seems to be a good example of how the two brands can peacefully co-exist.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Calm down. You know I'm just trying to yank your chain a little!



    P.S. Would that MPV happen to have the infamous underpowered engine, or the new one that Ford finally got correctly mated with the vehicle?
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I know I see alot of Duratec-equipped Ford Taurus' and Sables on the side of the road on my travels back and forth to work. Believe it or not, that seems like the most popular car that I see on the road (to me anyway). That's what worries me about the Mazda 6 (using a Duratec derivitive engine). I like them alot though. Maybe it will be my next car purchase around 2004 or something. We shall see.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    (and I believe Maltb might even appreciate this reply) ... I think the problem with the Taurus/Sable of late has been the transmission, not the engine. (Not that that matters all that much, though.) My neighbor was stranded on Maryland's Eastern Shore about three months ago when the tranny in his 1996 Taurus decided to leave part of itself on the highway.

    This may in fact be a problem area for the Ford/Mazda marriage. The guy who dates my next-door neighbor's girlfriend went out and (despite my first-hand warnings) purchased a new Mazda B2300 pickup truck -- with a Ford engine. I just saw him the other day, getting into a rental car, in front of my neighbor's house. I said, "Hey, you didn't go and sell that nice pickup after owning it for only a year, did you?" He replied, "No, I'm going to pick it up now. It's been in the shop for two weeks getting a new transmission."

    And to think it was a MAZDA transmission coupled to a FORD engine!

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but haven't the current-generation 626s, which also have this kind of shared engine-and-transmission arrangement, also suffered from transmission problems?

  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    I really appreciated the help and advice you given me and the HUGE asset you have been to this board. Listen, I will send you some appetizer cards to use at any TGI Friday's. Just, e-mail me your HOME address. I will pop them in the mail for you and your families use. I don't even need your name. I'll address it resident. BTW, you don't have to sign the appetizer card or anything. Just enjoy!

  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    >>>>The MP3 outslalomed a Ferrari 360 Spider and Corvettet ZO6, give it more hp and the car quite possibly jumps up to the top of my list in this price class!""

    Did the MP3 outslalom the 360 Spider an Chevette (I know it's a Corvette)? <<<<<

    according to them, the only car that can out-slalom the $18,500 MP3 is a $150,000 Porsche

    Made me feel very proud that day.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Actually Larry, it's all a big joke to me. I find it amusing when somebody assumes an identity for another. I'll send you an e-mail with my work addy. hehehe

    Meade, since the first time I drove a 2.5L MPV I could not figure out what every press writer was so up in arms about. Go to the MPV forum(second happiest bunch of owners on Edmunds). This past weekend I was tailgating an Accord V-6 up one of our major passes going 80. The van easily pulls a trailer with motorcycles and equip to the desert in 100+ heat. I welcome the 3.0 as it gets a 5spd trans, but the 2.5 was fine for me.
  • Actually, no Ford engine was dropped into the 626; both the 2.0 and 2.5 are Mazda designs, shipped in from Japan. (The fact that Ford has both a 2.0 Zetec and a 2.5 Duratec is irrelevant.) The 2.0, since '94, has gotten Ford's CD4E transmission, about which perhaps the less said, the better. (This is how I attempt to stay on Malt's good side.)
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    In all the years I've been driving and all the cars I have owned -- never did I have any problems like you guys are discussing here.

    Well, maybe three -- noise in a console, 1968 Riv. Turned out to be a too-long screw holding the console down, the driveshaft would pound on the bottom end of the screw over rough roads. Easy fix, switch the screws. And a 1957 Plymouth, the dumb factory assemblers left the plugs out of the ends of the rocker arms. Oil was being pumped against the firewall. Rocker arm plugs not listed as parts, the technician hand-forged them from a solid brass rod. You don't get that kind of service these days.

    No problems with wheels, tires, rattles, canisters, etc., and no strut tower installation problems. LOL

    And three: Touch up paint. Some jerk ripped my 1960 VW Beetle's left front fender as he pulled out of a parking space. The local paint shop did a lousy job matching the paint, it was a different shade of grey. My dad took the VW to an old timer friend in my hometown...his friend use to pinstripe horse-drawn wagons and the first cars, by hand. He matched the paint perfectly after mixing several samples. He charged $40. These days they have conputers that do what he did by eye. Ah the good old days. I miss those real experts.

    I go back farther than you guys, when my neighbor's car had a real "trunk"...a leather-covered box strapped to a folding steel rack. When eggs, and a live chicken for Sunday dinner, were delivered by a farmer in his horse-drawn buggy on Saturday mornings. Zoom Zoom that wasn't, but it sure was fun getting a ride around the block. Before I learned to drive a car, I learned to drive a horse and buggy. If you sit on the wrong side of the buggy the horse wouldn't go. Maybe that's why some Pros won't start in the morning. ;)

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Hey, even I'm not so blind to think that the 626 with a CD4E isn't a time bomb waiting to go off.

    If it were within my power, the 626 would have been fully revised long ago.
  • I guess this means that they can't ship CD4Es by air freight, huh? :)

    Well, if mine ever dies, you can tell me you told me so.
  • elec3elec3 Posts: 160
    CAPP: If it's in May and I happen to be home this summer, I'll be there! Woodfield is maybe a 45 minute drive from my house, depending of course on traffic. Certainly would be fun, but we'll see where I am come summer.

    engine noise when cold: My Pro5 does this too. I believe I remember hearing something about engine block and exhaust manifold being made of different materials and heating/expanding at different rates yadda yadda etc. I'm not positive this is really it but it sounds plausible enough. Not all parts of the engine heat at the same rate so it runs rough until the entire thing is warmed up. Mine sounds and even feels a bit gravelly (yes I can tell how warm the engine is by how smooth it idles and accelerates) while it's cold and I try to keep shifts around 2500rpm or so until the temp needle is well into the middle of the range. At this point the engine smooths out and power seems to come up a bit as well.

    fowler: Good story, while I'm still a young whippersnapper and wasn't around for the good old days, I'm already amazed how far things like cell phones and computers have come since I was a kid. Makes me wonder what sort of crazy things we'll be seeing 50 years from now. BTW, I'm elec3 and protegelec over on yahoo. The unfortunate fact that a million billion more people use Yahoo than Edmunds Town Hall made that change necessary. Had to add a few letters ;)
  • Protege's just do not like cold temperatures. It seems to run fine once it's warmed up, it's just a little annoying. But for 0.0% and a price of $15,000 I can't complain too much.
  • reaglereagle Posts: 15
    Well, my Pro is still at the dealership, and i am driving a lousy rented Corolla. Talk about a boring car.. The thing can not go to 65mph without a lot of work and heavy vibration..
    The pothole I hit was not a pothole per se, but a leftover of a water mains repair. They basically dug a trench across one lane, replaced a pipe and repaved it. But I guess they did not do it correctly and by the end of the same day the repaved part was several inches lower then the rest of the road with nice sharp edges. That's how I lost all tires and bent the hell out of the rims.. I know it's cheaper to go aftermarket, but even if I got 16" rims from tirerack for $130 or so, it would still be at least a grand with tires. Those Dunlops are not cheap, at $104 a piece... I really wonder if it's some kind of defect or a poorly choosen tire/wheel combination. Lots and lots of people drove over the same thing but I was the one who lost all tires. So those of you with 02 Pro Es and 16" alloys may want to be carefull, seeing my example.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    That's funny. My Protege seems to perform better (i.e. feels faster) in the cold. You know, some people spend big money to install intake air coolers on their cars. Cold weather does it for you!

  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Posts: 174
    I'm not a big audiophile, but the sound in my 02 Pro is pretty poor. I'd like to change the rear speakers but also increase the output, BUT retain the factory stereo unit. I know that the amplifiers I've had in the past were connected to low level outputs from the stereo unit.

    Since the factory Mazda unit does not have low level outputs, does anyone make an amplifier that I can put in the trunk to ONLY power the new rears that can take a variable input signal from my factory unit? This way the fronts remain stock and I'd have the amp in the trunk to run the new rears.

    I'm not looking for anything too heavy duty. I have no interest in shaking my fillings loose.

    Hope I explained this correctly. I had a Nakamichi (sp?) amp that allowed variable input but that was on my MGB some 15 years ago when low level outputs were rare.


    Ron B.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I wouldn't use the factory head unit if I were you. It sucks. I had a 2001 Protege ES, and blew the radio out 2 times because I was playing it too loud (the dealer said). The head unit controls the speakers, so they had to replace the head unit in the car twice. Still a crappy stereo system. The stereo in the 1999-2000 Protege was alot better, IMO.
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Posts: 174
    Stereo question aside, I have one about the A/C compressor. I noticed this: With the car idling after being fully warmed, say at a light, and the fan OFF the car idles smoothly. If I have the air selector at full warm and aim ONLY at my feet, if I turn the fan speed to 1 (or any nuber other than off) the rpm surges up ever so slight, and I hear the fan kick on. This leads me ot believe that the A/C compressor is coming on to remove moisture. If I turn the fan back to off, the fan shuts off. Back to 1, the fan turns on. Also, if I turn the selector to put air only out the dash vents, the fan turns off. But I read the manual over and over again and it says if I want to remove moisture to manually push the A/C compressor button. What's the deal? The only reason for more cooling need (the reason the fan activates) is if the A/C compressor comes on. I have to pop the hood and look to see if the A/C compressor clutch activates with the heat on. I'm assuming that's what I will find since I hear the fan kick on.

    I just can't believe that Mazda would design the system so that the A/C compressor activates every time the heat is on. For the defroster I understand, but not the heat.

    My brother had an F-150 and on his, if the air was directed to any setting other than full feet or full dash vent the A/C would activate. but, his manual made that clear. Mazda'z does not.


    Ron B.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    That's true. The A/C compressor kicks on for everything but feet/face and face. This is the only car that I've owned that does this. I don't like it either.
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Posts: 174
    I'm annoyed enough having spent over 16k on a car that I now have to change the speakers. The thought of adding an amp for the rear was a question I had. To change the head unit would be even more. Now I'd be buying a head unit, speakers and maybe an amp; and all right after buying the car! Changing the head unit might be something I'd do down the raod. That's why I was looking for an amp that would take both variable and low level outputs. this way, when and if I change the head unit, I will not have wasted my money on the amp. So, while the factory unit might not be the best, it's adequate for now for the purpose of powering the amp and fronts. that is, IF someone does make such an amp.

    Anyone know what if any manufacturer allows low and variable inputs on the same amp?
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Posts: 174
    Is it just me or is the manual NOT clear on this? My brother's manual for the F-150 was very clear in saying when the compressor kicks in and when it does not. The Mazda's is not. Or maybe I'm suffering advanced brain fade. Wouldn't be the first time!
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    At all settings other than Feet or Face and Feet, the AC comes on without pushing the AC button.

    Be careful about upgrading speakers, especially ones with larger magnets. Many cars have computer chips in the frames and door posts which can be ruined by large magnets. I don't know if the Pro has chips like that, better check with the service people before changing.

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    you can get a converter that reduces normal speaker outputs to low level RCA outputs. Because the process is redundant you pick up a little noise, but this is commonly done by stereo shops when the customer wants to retain the stock head unit.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I REALLY wouldn't sweat that one.

    I suppose Jim that an airplane will crash when I turn on a cell phone too?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    You're getting as bad as me!

    Who eliminated in your breakfast cereal this morning?

    (Sure, I thought Jim had taken a little leave of reality with that suggestion too -- but hey!)

    I'd rather say, don't put larger magnets in your car doors because they tend to affect things like window panes, drywall joints and MY EARDRUMS!!!!

  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Gonna be 65 and sunny today! I might just have to sneak out of work early so I can put all four windows down and zoomzoom home in the sun!!!

    Spring can't get here soon enough!

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    65 in this area today, eh? I am DEFINITELY going out for lunch then! :)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    (Sorry ... inside joke between Paul and me)

    I wouldn't exactly call where you and I live "this area!" You're almost three hours north of me! Sorry big guy -- according to your weather for Baltimore, it's only going to hit 57 up there today.

  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    If you are serious about using an amp, look for one which has line-level or speaker level inputs. There are dozens out there that have this. Essentially, you just hook up the speaker wires from the head unit to the amp, and your new speakers to the amp. The head unit really isn't that bad. Mazda just saddled it with cheap speakers. This is apparently common practice amongst automakers these days. I had to pay about $400 extra for the Infinity system in my Jeep (it was worth it). My Jetta came with a "Monsoon" 8 speaker system, but it sounded about the same as my Protege's stock stereo. As far as speakers go, I would recommend something with a high sensitivity or efficiency rating (92 dB or better). This will take the most advantage of the stock head unit. Personally, I plan to replace the speakers first, then add an amp if necessary.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    You forget, I work like 5 mins. from DC though, so I am about an hour or two from you right now. :) It's nice outside. Don't know the temp., but I definitely had the sunroof and windows down driving to and from lunch. There was a little chill, but my seat heaters helped chase that away. :)
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