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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • I do not think it is the nature of the beast to have obvious uneven wear if you are rotating every 3000 miles. That is assuming the tire pressure is kept to at least 30 PSI and the truck isn't pushed extremely hard through corners.

    I bought a used '01 4X4 recently with 13,000 miles and the previous owner told me that he had never rotated the tires. I inspected them very closely and if I ran my hand over the tread I could feel some very minor "chop" on the outside tread. I rotated them and have driven about 2500 miles since the rotation. The tires from the back (now on the front) look and feel perfect.

    I plan to rotate (backs to front and fronts crossed to the rear) every 5000 miles. It sounds like the dealer is trying to take care of you since they swapped to the Pirellis.
  • hey, i bought a 99 4x4 4.0 auto ext-cab last april from a single owner who was meticulous w/ maintenance. btw, i really like my truck,...but, it vibrates too at high rpm = betw ~67-71 mph. otherwise it's fine. i rotated the tires, got them aligned, and it still vibrates. it's not a huge vibration, so i've settled w/ dealing w/ it until i get new meats and shocks, then, if it still vibrates, i will have the drive shaft tested for balance and have it balanced if necessary. i've noticed that it already has a couple strategically-placed round counterweights welded to it, so i'm suspecting this as the root of the vibration problem big time. so, who knows more about the aluminum shaft? that could also be an option. cost? thanks in advance for the info. this board kicks culo.
  • Greetings all you proud Ford owners!

    Seems I'm having some problems with my 1996 Ford will not go into 4 wheel drive LOW.....i can click the dial on the dash over to low 4wd BUT the dash light only says 4wd high......then if and when it finally does go into low 4wd then it will not go out back into 2 wd

    wondering if anyone has had similar promlems and what can it be?

    pls email me at
  • Sorry to get you guys confused about a vibration at upper speeds. Thanks frey44 for getting off the subject I initially wrote about, transmission problems. And that doesn't include a vibration at upper speeds. The shutter that was mentioned in my original posting about my '99 3.0l ranger happened in reverse backing up AT IDLE. If you can give me any input about the ranger auto trans, I'd appreciate it.
  • OK, Ive posted before about my 4.0 V-6 making a knocking sound when I first start the engine in the AM. Im one of these guys who tries to get the best of everything for my vehicles, well at least I think so. From oil,belts,plugs,gas,etc.I get good name brand parts. Well this is what Ive come up with. I have been using 91 or 89 octane in my ranger. I get the knocking noise when this gas is in my ranger. Switched to 87 octane, which the owners manual says to use, and I don't get the knocking! Why? Im happy, but why?
  • can lead to more carbon deposits in your combustion chamber, valves, and exhaust side of your heads. This shouldn't really explain any immediate changes, but would explain any gradual ones. It might be worth while to pick up a cleaner you can put into your fuel and try to clean up any left built up carbon...

  • I'll pick up some fuel additive (cleaner) and give it a try. Thanks. This started very gradually, the knocking noise, and I just had to try something. Low octane gas (87) was it.
  • dugiedugie Posts: 2
    I just discovered this Edmund's site while checking out pricing on a new Ford -- very interesting dialogues. I'll have to re-vist from time to time.
    I just posted last night to the Ranger III section #970 about my 94 Ranger w/ 241,000 mi.
    (bought it new in 94) Some time you get lucky, I guess -- I'm not particularly good at maintenance
    however I drive fairly easy and had just great service from this Ranger. It still looks near new, but, 10 times around the world might be pushing my luck. ....truly a GREAT truck.
  • I Just bought a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT (base model no power locks etc). Once in a while the theft light comes on for about 10 sec while im driving and then goes off every now and then. Why is this light comming on? Is my truck equipted with a theft system? Because when the car is off the theft light never blinks. How do i fix it? Thanks
  • i have 2001 ranger and have recently noticed that the auto tranny will shift from 1st to 2nd at 3000 rpms. the o/d light also began flashing. i have an appointment tomorrow for this problem. could anyone give me any heads up on this?? anyone else have this same problem in the past??

    thanks again
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    Common problem in Ranger 4x4's>a subtle floorboard-seatbase shake that is faily low amplitude, and especially annoying on LONGER highway drives. One possilibity IS the driveshaft (in spite of the guys on here saying Rangers are perfect: they aren't). The origin of the shake is NOT the primary balance, but the improperly machined splines by the OEM manufacturer (probably Dana or an axle maker). Another possiblility is the torque converter of the 5 speed auto, if your truck has one. My 2000 Ranger got the new aluminum shaft (for free), but it did NOT solve the shakes completely, nor did a new set of Michelins. Also, have someone check the rims, especially if alloy) for runout. Also, check alignment; also, check for shocks that have freeplay [these can cause axle bounce on the rear especially, even if only a few mm of slop is present]. My Ranger vibes solution this fall will be a new '04 Tundra. I love the Ranger otherwise, but hate to drive it over maybe 15 or 20 minutes. I will be able to sell this truck to some youg guy who will put monster tires on it, offroad it, and tear it up. He won't notice the shakes anyways> ;-) Here is a link to the TSB I had previously posted:
    frey44 Sep 17, 2002 4:14pm
  • Especially my 2003. I had a rattle in my window seal area, and difficulty shifting from first to second while the drivetrain was cold, but I just rolled up the window all way. And after I started to get the drivetrain broken in, the shifting is now smooth as can be with my rusty manual trans driving. 3.0l is almost too much power for the little truck with 5 speed manual.
  • I have a 97 ranger 4x4 with 36,000 miles. The problem I have is when I open the passenger door and close it the "Door ajar" light comes on and stays on while the truck is running. If I turn the truck off and restart it,without opening the door, the light goes out. Any ideas on what to check??? The drivers side seems to work fine.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    This is a well know problem for Ranger.

    And, for your year I think the switch is not in the doorjam, it is inside the door. On the locking assembly. To get to it you have to remove the door panel. Replace it or clean with WD40 or electrical cleaner.
  • Thanks bolivar,you are right. I stopped by the Ford dealership and picked up a "door open warning light switch" part # XF1Z 14018 AA. Cost $9.84. They also told me to use WD-40, etc. to clean the area. I tried the WD-40 first and it seemed to work! Back to normal again. Im going to hold on to that switch, never know. Thanks again.
  • Have a 99 with 56000 on it and had to have both door sensors replaced. Make certain that if you have the dealer do this, they unscrew the bottom screw by the speaker. The dealer didn't and I got a new door panel out of the deal. Working fine now. Cost about 10 dollars for each and 90 dollars for labor (didn't feel like doing it myself).
  • Glad to here that you're going to pawn your problems with your truck onto someelse. The problem was, and I repeat myself AGAIN, the transmission!!! Had a new trans put in in july 02. No vibration anymore. How do you figure this? Guess the driveshaft is okay. Still want to know why they put plastic gears in a transmission of a 4x4? Cost? Can anyone please let me know.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    So, that PRVES I WAS RIGHT all along: BAD TORQUE CONVERTER. Ford Motor Company denial. Thanks for confriming what I had already told you and others (with full documentation, months ago). Cheers. BTW, I will be gettig my new Toyota soon. Good luck with your Ranger with the new tranny; I hope it lasts longer than the first one.
  • Could one of you guys tell me how to get the door panel cover off of the drivers side door of my '99 Mazda B3000. I want to clean that switch first before I go buy a replacement switch. I tried taking the 3 screws out of the door that I know of but I'm not sure how to get window crank off without breaking it or some of the fasteners I know hold that panel on....any help would be apppreciated since I'd hate to pay $90 labor for dealership to do it........thanks
  • I never got to the point of taking my door apart. The ford dealership told me to take WD-40, etc. and spray the you know what out of the door latch area. I had one of those red tubes stuck in the end of the spray nozzle and really sprayed it. It went from not working at all on the passenger door to everything working perfectly.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    but I think I've read there is some kind of cover over the center of the window crank. You get this off and there is a screw.
  • the tranny is not shifting right takes more rpm to go from 1st to 2nd gear.. but still works..the Over Drive lite comes on.

    what can be wrong? oil is ok.

    like some ideas before I take it to the shop.

  • When is the last time you have the filter changed in the transmission? General rule is to have them changed every 1-2 years (2 tops) to avoid a very expensive replacement.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    A/T - Slipping Shifts/Delayed Engagements/DTC's Set
    Article No.

    TRANSMISSION - 4R44E - 4R55E - 5R44E - 5R55E -
    TROUBLE CODES P0732, P0733, P1762 SET -

    1995-2001 EXPLORER
    1995-2002 RANGER
    1996-1997 AEROSTAR
    1999-2002 EXPLORER SPORT

    1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER

    Article 02-8-2 is being republished in its entirety to update the DTC codes, build dates and to update the Service Procedure.


    Some vehicles built prior to 12/1/2001 may exhibit the following shift and engagement conditions:
    ^ Low line pressure readings while in DRIVE at

    ^ No 2nd gear

    ^ No 3rd gear

    ^ No engine braking in Manual 1st

    ^ Slipping shifts and/or delayed engagements

    ^ DTCs P0732, P0733 or P1762 may be present

    This may be caused by improper pressures controlled by the Transmission Main Control assembly.


    If the conditions described are verified, the Main Control may need to be updated to the latest level or completely replaced. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.



    Verify that one or more of the following conditions exist:
    ^ Low line pressure while in Drive at WOT

    ^ Slipping/delayed shifts

    ^ Slipping/delayed engagements

    ^ No 2nd and/or No 3rd gear

    ^ No engine braking in Manual 1st

    ^ OD Band failed OFF

    ^ DTC P0732, P0733 or P1762 set

    1. Verify that one of the conditions listed above exist with the vehicle.

    2. If the condition exists, drain the transmission fluid from the pan.

    3. Remove the fluid pan and fluid pan gasket, discard the gasket. Refer to Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.

    4. Inspect the fluid in pan for major contamination.

    a. If major contamination IS present, refer to Procedure A, to replace the Main Control Assembly.

    b. If major contamination is NOT present, refer to Procedure B, to Update the Main Control Assembly.

    5. After completing procedure A or B, verify the condition has been corrected.

    6. Clear all DTCs.

    Procedure A:

    1. If major contamination is present, follow normal Workshop Manual procedures to repair internal transmission damage. If the transmission is repaired remember that the the Main Control (7A100), Fluid Pan Gasket (7A191) and Fluid Filter (7A098) must be replaced. Refer to the application chart for the correct Main Control assembly to use.

    Procedure B:

    1. To UPDATE the main control to the new level, follow the steps listed in the Service Kit 1L5Z-7M203-JA (ALL KIT CONTENTS MUST BE USED). A new separator plate (7A008 or 7Z490), upper/lower separator plate gaskets (7C155 and 7D100 used only with a 7A008 plate), fluid pan gasket (7A191), and a fluid filter (7A098) must be used. ALL NEW PARTS MUST BE USED. Refer to Parts Application Chart for parts selection.

    2. Install the Special Service Tools 307-333 and 307-334 (1 each) onto the main control (Figure 1).

    3. Install a new service Separator Plate (refer to chart), make sure that the new plate has hole # 50 deleted, install the three (3) screw and tighten to 7 N.m (62 Lb-in).

    4. Install a new separator plate to case gasket (7C155) if installing the 7A008 style separator plate. DO NOT INSTALL a 7C155 GASKET IF USING A 7Z490 Separator Plate.

    5. Remove the special service tools.

    6. Continue to follow the assembly steps as found in the assembly of sub-assembled, main control valve body.

    7. Reinstall the main control by continuing to follow the Installation steps listed in the Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.




    Parts Block
    SUPERSEDES: 02-8-2
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage


    7A100 42

    OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 503000
  • I own a '97 Ranger 2wd with 2.3L 4-cyl engine. Last Friday, the control that directs the flow of air for the interior is stuck to the defrost position.
    I can turn the switch, and the compressor and the A/C will function accordingly, but the flow of air is always directed to the windshield.

    Looking at my Haynes manual, it seems that the Rangers up to '94 used blades (connected to the control by cables) to control the airflow. The manual does not give much information for models '95 and newer. I can only tell from the schematics, that the the switch seems to be electric. (But I have not idea what the expected output is supposed to be.)

    Any idea where I should be able to get more information, so that I can start troubleshooting ?

    Thanks a lot,
  • I own a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT SuperCab. I have found that when I fill the gas tank that it overfills from underneath the bed. I can't figure out what it could be because it is not coming up the fill hose. Any help would be appreiciated.
  • rickc5rickc5 Posts: 378
    It contains some sort of vegetable oils (like 3-in-1 oil) which tend to get very sticky and gummy over time, as the solvents evaporate. Use silicon spray or electrical contact cleaner to "free up" stuck door switches. Both will lubricate without getting sticky.

    I use WD40 for cleaning greasy/dirty parts (like bicycle chains), but always follow up with a better lubricant once the parts have been cleaned.
  • Not trying to start anything, but last time I checked the responses about vibrations, you kept talking about the drive shaft, not the torque converter. Could be a slight overlook on my part, but I looked and saw nothing about posting a problem with the torque converter. Have had no problems since the third transmission, but then again, I've been driven the tires off of it and treating it like my old 1990 F250 that I got rid of for the ranger (Stupid Mistake). Maybe the prob. is fixed.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Yea, I know, everyone bitches about it now-a-days.

    But, it frees up stuff that's sticking.

    And maybe a little goop left on it is better than electrical contact cleaner, which is completely solvent and totally evaporates, leaving no lube.

    And Armorall slimes up stuff. And Rain-X streaks.

    What did we do before this stuff?
  • TO: frey44,

    Thanks for the transmission TSB, my 2001 4.0l 5sp auto (built 11/00) 25K miles has of late developed a delayed down shift into first gear. Sometime I have come to a complete stop for a second or two and them "klunk" it shifts into first. It up shifts fine and firm. Have removed power to reset the logic circuit but it still does it. What do you think? I still have 11K miles and 14 months of warranty.
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