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I've had warped brake rotors turned twice since I bought the truck, and they're warped again. I first start sensing the problem just a month or two after the last turning. I really don't think I drive the truck that hard, other than the fact that I do commute such a long way; I drive the truck like the almost-40-year-old guy that I am, not like an 18-year old having fun in traffic.
Has anybody else had similar experiences? What could be causing this unusual pattern? What options do I have for dealing with this other than having the rotors turned every 6 months and replacing them once that's no longer possible?
Any help will be most appreciated; thanks in advance.
AFC
Possibility of a collapsed or obstructed brake line, usually the rubber portion causing drag. I wouldn't expect this on both sides.
AFC
In the cab, there is the fuse panel which is in the dash, on the driver's side. Open the door, and it's on the side of the dash that directly faces the door.
Check your owner's manual, and see which fuses point to those devices. If the fuses are not visibly blown, or replacing them does not fix the problem, your dealership should be your next step. Your truck should be under warranty still, unless you are a very high milage driver.
My 01 4.0 ext cab had rear drums replaced (under warranty) for being out of round @ 9K miles and now at 33.3K are that way again. I'll have to have them turned very soon. No problems with the front rotors. My driving is mostly stop/go in city.
goldranger
I have a 1995 Ranger 2300 XL. Number 2 cyclinder is missfiring so I scanned my computter & the code it pulls up reads missfire at cyclinder #2 like if I didn't know that allready. I have new plugs, wires & all the electrics check out fine. Both plugs in cyclinder #2 are just black not burning. I replaced the fuel injector to that cyclinder thinking that it might be hanging up. Same problem cyclinder not firing.
Any suggestions?
Thanks so much.
ramzey28, That's the govenor kicking in. The stock tires that came with your truck were rated somewhere around 95-98 MPH. My 2003 3.0l kicks in at 92 mph. Guess if I win a race with you, it'll have to be a long distance race...
It shuts down if you keep it up, because the Computer thinks you may have a problem with the gas pedal. (Not lead foot, but maybe a stuck accelerator, so it shuts down.)
You can eliminate the govenor with a aftermarket Chip, but be advised that this can void you warranty. The newer Rangers have a steel plate that covers the port you plug your chip into. So you can't just remove the chip for dealership servicing, as they'll know you got into the ECU for something. Also know that the Ranger drivetrain does have a problem with vibration and harmonics at triple digit speeds. It's a basic design issue with the Ranger, but it is a truck, not a sports car.
The noise made me very uneasy, and that plus the leaky cab plus a number of other issues made me sell it at 35k and get a tacoma. I refuse to pay for repairs when I am still paying on a vehicle.
As to engine damage, more modern engines are probably better able to withstand higher levels of this. Older designs are not. You also have to be careful of detonation that can't be heard. This usually occurs at higher RPMs where one or two detonation events in a cylinder are masked by other engine and vehicle noises.
In the 1960s there were probably a lot of Chevy small block owners who couldn't figure out why they threw a rod on their 265-283-327-350 motors. Many of these engines had undetected distributor shaft wear that caused the timing to periodically jump about 20 degrees advanced, and at some RPMs this would cause a disasterous detonation event in one cylinder which would literally produce enough downforce to fracture a connecting rod.
While some might tolerate a "little" detonation, it is a symptom that is NOT normal to a efficient combustion event and in my opinion should not be occuring and be at all times avoided. Intermittent detonation probably won't hurt a fresh engine, but that rattle means that engine components are moving with extreme oscillation. After a while fatique of some component is inevitable.
Best regards,
Dusty
"The right of the people to keep and bear arms is not a right granted by the Constitution . . . [n]either is it in any manner dependent upon that instrument for its existence."
United States v. Cruikshank, 92 U.S. 542 (1876)
I am going to pull the single core radiator first, then???? While in I also am going to replace my thermostat and heater core - pretty sure that is workable yet again Honest I am scared to mess with these major belts?
thank you for any help and Happy Holidays
ladyhall
The computer shuts off the fuel @ 93 MPH on a 4.0L.
If you must go faster, you must buy an after market chip.
My 01 4.0 will easily get to 92 or so but thats it...
Goldranger
While I believe the K&N does flow more air and with less restriction, I can imagine there is some type of loss in micro particle filtration. To me, I just put in a new paper air filter every other oil change. 3.99 or so, and I'm good for 6 months.
Also, beware of radial/conial aftermarket filters. While they may look and sound cool, and have lots of surface area to suck in air, conial filters by nature replace the whole airbox assembly. This means there is little to no isolation of air from the hot engine bay. So any gains made by a high flowing, conial filter may be offset by the now copious amounts of heated air. That's one of the problems for Ranger Enthusiasts, getting cold air efficiently into the intake, and keeping it filtered...
I have a 2001 V6 4.0L Ranger XLT Crew Cab and I'm trying to replace my headlamp bulbs (one of them is burned out). However, I can't get to the rear of the bulb in the engine compartment because part of the frame is in the way - so it would seem I need to pull out the headlight assembly. I've taken off the plastic top cover, unscrewed the top locking nut on top, but only the top part of the headlight assembly is loose (i.e. there must be bottom screws as well). It would seem that this should be much easier to simply replace the bulbs. Can someone help me and provide me with some detailed instructions as to how to get to the bulbs and replace them? Thanks.
Bottom line is that oiled air filters just aren't a good idea any more. If not the MAF sensor, then that oil will evntually sludge up the throttle body. K&N had a neat idea, but they didn't think it through. That's probably why they don't put them on at the factory, right?
As far as the lens dust, I imagine the only thing to do is disassemble the dash and clean the lens and then reseal it with caulk. You'll need a repair manual for dash disassembly instructions.
Here's a picture of the retaining clamps on my 03 Edge headlight. They are easy to miss, and I am hoping a 01 XLT is the same. This is all you have to do on my truck to release the headlights and get to the bulbs.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/329000-329999/329- 486_88_full.jpg
gylhome,
The MAF filter is the first sensor in the intake tube (right after the airbox). It takes some security torx bolts to remove it (the torx bolts with a hole in the center), and then you should see a the maf sensor shrouded in plastic. Well I shaved off my plastic which allows more air contact, and that richens my air/fuel mixture and gives me a little more HP, but the actual sensor inside the plastic is much more exposed and vulnerable. You would first check the holes for any obvious particles/obstruction, then spray a little electrical cleaner inside to clean them of any possible filter oil. Then let it air dry, and maybe hit it with an air compressor just to be sure.
I'll post a pic if that would be benefical.
As far as the debate if a K&N is better than paper? Well I think it does flow better, but at what cost (to filtration of micro particles?) Also the oil is what really captures the particles, but like we talked before, it can mess up sensors. If you do re-oil it, just don't use too much, and let it drip/air dry as much as possible before reinstallation. If I were to go with an aftermarket filter, I would try out a foam filter, and definitely one that wouldn't require oil. Just one less thing to worry about.
rangeroo, getting inside the dash isn't too difficult, but you do want to take your time and go step by step. Look for a Haynes or Chiltons manual at your closest auto parts store, and you should find what you need. Otherwise, you can start looking for bolt holes on the sides and underneath, and work your way in. Just depends how patient and crafty you can be.
The plastic roller gets a grove worn in it. Once the grove is worn, grease, oil, etc will not help it. You have to replace the hinge.
I did it myself, not too much trouble. getting to the bolts is biggest problem. I also had to take the door off the upper hinge. This was needed to get the old hinge out and new one in because it has a threaded stud, so you have to move the door outwards to get the stud to clear.
I hung the door from a rope from my garage door rail. And I was probably very lucky in getting the door to move back into a very good adjustment alignment. When I had to remove both hinges, this was my main concern....
I hope you don't have to remove the upper hinge, it's bolts are behind the dash..... The lower one is only behind the kick panel which is simple to remove.
In my case, a mechanic determined that a tensioner that puts pressure on the a/c belt (I may have explained this incorrectly)...he had to replace the belt (which I had just had installed a couple of months ago) and this tension regulator. The squeal is now totally gone. Hope this is helpful