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2005 Civic EX sedean Auto, grey/grey w/22k miles. Sale price $15,600 and I got the dealer to give me the new car loan rate so 39 months @ 6.29%.
OTD it was $16,800 w/plates, tax, etc. $2k down, so financed $14,800 and payments are about $420 for 39mo.
Drove it home (about 50 miles) and already love it.
16748-Car
398-Doc Fee
502-Tax
95-State Filing
56-Tag, Lic
Just bought and Si, but have never driven a manual transmission before. For the first week I had the car, my girfriend and I left it sitting in front of the house, and rented a manual transmission car to learn on. After a few days, I tried to drive my new Si and did well for two days, but have now started to stall and am still getting used to starting from a stopped position on a hill.
I'm thinking that I should probably rent the manual tranmission car again for a few weeks and drive it every day to and from work, including on hills, become comfortable with it, and then drive my new car.
Any thoughts on this strategy, how long it generally takes to learn manual transmission, and/or my not driving my new car until I am very comfortable. Notwithstanding the fact that I cannot yet drive my new car well, I love it and doen't want to damage the transmission.
Thank you for any thoughts.
The general amount of time to learn is a very individual thing. You just gotta keep at it for as long as it takes.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
basically, if you smell anything burning while driving, if you hear anything grinding while shifting, or if you just aren't driving it smoothly, then, yes, you are hurting it to one degree or another.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
good tip on not keeping the clutch in--i have read that you should not do that.
btw--i love driving stick.
the slightest bit of pressure will wear the clutch or synchros out over time.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
(Cincinnati is the home of the "Seven Hills" and has more transmission shops per capita than probably anyplace in the US) Some of the hills I stop at are almost 45%!! We have the added advantage of icy roads in winter.
Experience and time will cure most of this. On steep hills letting the clutch in slower to avoid stalling will keep the best of us smelling some burnt clutch now and then.
A new pressure plate, throwout bearing and clutch usually is $400, and required after about 90000-150000 mi, depending on the driving you do. So if you knock off about 20% of your clutch life learning, that is about $80. The rental car thing is a good gig, especially if you've never driven a stick, but start to drive your new car.
do. the biggest issue i'm having is burning the clutch when i'm trying to engage first gear on a hill. any suggesstions?
Actually the best prices around still seem steep to me as one of the reasons I'm forking up big $$ to buy a honda is for the reliability anyway. After the initial break in 39-100k should be the sweet spot.
--jjf
Now about the pricing - The sticker was $24,400.00, but since I went I dealt with the Internet Sales Manager, I was offered $17,300 (dealer invoice was $16,800 - so I paid $500 over invoice) - MSRP was $17,500.
Now, I did a couple of upgrades - I added a rear spoiler(with tail light enclosed), fog lamps, upgrades to the EX rims from the LX wheel-coverings, had a Low-jack installed, and purchased an 8yr/120k extended warranty. OTD pricing with all the upgrades was $24,100.
Since you are renting a manual car to practic, I would offer this advice from when I was learning how to drive in England - Yes, we learn how to drive from a manual.
For down hill start, it is quiet simple, if it is very steep, start in 2nd gear and just ease off the brake and cluch.
For up hill, first, pull the hand brake. Then step on the gas and depress the cluch until you feel that the car is trying go pull forward. At that point, release the hand brake, the car should start moving forward and just step on
more gas. Once you master the start, you should practice going up hill controlling the speed without using the brake. Just slow the car down by pressing little by little on the cluch until the car stops on and up hill with the gas still on. By adjusting the gas and cluch level, you should be able to start and stop the car from that point (or even go backwards) just keep starting and stopping without using the brake.
If you stall the car during the practice, just pull the hand brake.
In no time you will get the control of the cluch and gas for a manual. The key is not relay too much on the brake
I'm in the bayarea and the price is $17000 + tax, license & $45 doc fee. This is from Larry Hopkins Honda in Sunnyvale.
I did not get any internet quote form them. All the other internet quotes I've got were higher. I was just going there to test drive the car but then the fleet manager walk out and straight told me the price. So I just say lets do it. May not be the absolute lowest but good enough for me without any haggling. In and out of the dealer in not more then an hour.
Got a full tank of gas and the first oil change for free too!
Selling Price: $20,560 + difference in sticker
Dealer Fee: $599.95 (can't seem to find a Florida dealer with no dealer fee)
Battery Fee: $6.50
Sales Tax: 1269.99
County Sales Tax: 50.00
Tags, title and registration (est): $260.00
Delivered Price: $22,746
Is this reasonable? Should I be trying to do better? What price should I look for? I can't seem to find any florida dealers who will take out the dealer fee. Any suggestions, comments or thoughts are welcome.. Thank you!
Mike
Five speed Civics are so unpopular compared to the automatics that some of the smaller dealers don't even order any. you will be lucky to even find one in WA much less for what you are willing to pay.
And,the longer you wait, the worse the situation will get.
You can certainly wait for the 2007's to arrive, probably in October but they won't be any less money.
We haven't gotten any word yet about the 2007 civic, as far as I know it won't be arriving anytime soon. Earliest I've heard is way into 2007 probably late february.. What I can do is put you down for a phone call in a few months when I receive my pricing for the 2007 Civic
-XXXX"
Is this true?
Did you finance your car? If you did, how much was the APR rate?
Does any one know if whether Honda will have a special sale for the Civic on Labor Day weekend? Would that be a better time to buy?
Thanks for all your inputs.
I got that price in the Shenandoah Valley.
According to the dealers I have talked to:
2006 manual transmission sedans are no longer manufactured.
2007 sedans are identical to 2006 ones.
2007 sedans are available for delivery starting mid-September.
2007 pricing is not known yet, expecting $150-300 MSRP increase.
HTH,
RamusNee.
P.S. Honda and dealer failed to beat 6.0% 5-year "blank check" CapitalOne loan through Costco.
i know accord has clearance deal for 2000 drive off and 200/month for 36 months.
u think i get beat accords deal?
anyone who has a good idea of a civic lx lease deal?
help me out~! thanks
MSRP: $17.510 + $595 = $18,105.
The no-haggling dealer did not have any additional fees. I paid taxes, of course, but do not remember how much.
RamusNee.
However, in the price, I saw a price of 0083 Wheel Locks which is separately listed. What is it? ABS? Is it an accessory installed by dealer? I am a new driver, have no idea about this.
LX is steel wheels and may not need the wheel lock. Check your wheel.
The dealer never mention that. And you are right too. I might not need them. Anyway, better than nothing. I expected that price is for standard LX/AT seden.
Noticed the 06's are getting cleared out so I wanted to ask:
I have a budget of 18000 OTD. Is it possible to grab a LX A/T (coupe or sedan) for that now, or am I dreaming?
Thanks!
2006's for the most part are history over here. I expect the 2007's to be priced about $200 over where they are now from the factory..I haven't gotten any word from Honda on 07 pricing.
18,000 otd, I don't think so...it would depend on your states tax, thats the big thing.
I just bought an Si and the salesman is trying to get me to purchase both an interior and exterior treatment. My guess is that these treatments are not worth it? Any thoughts?
I'd take a pass on it if I were you.
Bought in Austin, TX
Price paid: $19,855 (MSRP, unfortunately)
Final OTD price: $21,318
I called several dealers in a 350-mile radius of Austin and the Civics were all going for MSRP.
I am being given a quote of 21,605 + ttl. DFW (Dallas area). I offered to finance it myself with no Trade in.
Doesn't look like a good deal for me, what do you say?
:sick:
Also pass on :
Undercoating
Vin etching (some police depts do this for free)
Credit Life
Extended Warranties (Sigh... if you must myhondawarranty.com eg:8yr/120k $1280)
Wheel locks
Tinting (if you absolutely want it pay $80)
Fabric Treatments (Can of scotch guard especially around pedals and floor mat edges)
Paint sealant (nyet)
--jjf
Hi,
I just bought an Si and the salesman is trying to get me to purchase both an interior and exterior treatment. My guess is that these treatments are not worth it? Any thoughts?
Replies to this message:
Did they insist on putting any extras on the car? Vandergriff in DFW is. Just checking.