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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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    trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Yes it is the resistor. When a resistor goes out, the blower motor will only run on high, indicating that the resistor is indeed the culprit. However, there is a relay for the blower/heater motor that can also give you the same indicators. I'll will have to say that it is the resistor, as you describe the symptoms to a tee.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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    robert55robert55 Member Posts: 2
    the blower runs on low speed and high speed. everything works fine. just when everything is off the fan keeps moving at a slow speed drainig the battery. where is the relay located? I just want to make sure what it is. a resistor cost a lot.
    thanks
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    dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    Most trucks and SUV's have a slight forward lean, that is, they're a little lower in the front. You've got to remember, that's where all of the weight is. Add a 75lb brushguard, and the front will sit a little lower. Add a winch and winch bumper, and you'll really start to notice it. With the oversize tires that were already on the truck, it looked like the front fenders were about 3-4" off the tire, but 4-6" in the rear. Alot of lift companies sell "leveling kits" to offset the droop the frontend may have, especially after adding some extraction equipment. So, no. My Grand is now sitting perfectly level and the tires have plenty of clearance under the fenders. My brother has a '96 like you and he did the same thing, except with 4.5" front and 4" rear. He's running 33's and has way more than enough room. Hope I explained that well enough for you. Anyway, let me know of any more questions you have. - dixiecrawler
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    gccambridgegccambridge Member Posts: 24
    txman1 -

    Quick update. Took it to 2nd dealer for another opinion - they are overhauling the tranny. They say they won't know exactly what is wrong until they take it apart (something likely with 3rd gear)...

    4,100 miles and tranny overaul! Scary... Just looking forward to my WK operating properly. :sick:
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    dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    I'm sorry, I told you wrong. My brother's running 31's on his '96 Grand with lots of room to spare. He probably could fit 33's, but he takes the interstate to work everyday, and there are quite a few hills in between, so he'd rather keep the good gas mileage for now! Post you later! - dixiecrawler
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    runner48runner48 Member Posts: 2
    My friend has a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee. She has had 6 radiators since 2001. Jeep can't tell her why they are failing. Now the 6th radiator is leaking. Does anyone have any insight??
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    venturmaxventurmax Member Posts: 2
    I'm sorry, I should have given more info. The brake pads were replaced last summer so their o.k. The jeep is 4WD with quadra trac II. There is no shake or shimmy when turning. It tracks fine on the highway.
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    pezleypezley Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the power steering on my uncle's Jeep Cherokee
    one month ago and he is having problems with it again. Please forgive my misspelling. I am a very bad speller

    I have two questions and I am still going to school for car repair so forgive me it they sound dumb.

    1.After I put the pump on and blead the system and sent the vehicle home with my uncle I noticed a tiny piece of
    paper in the bottom of the box under the packing material
    Instructing me to first flush the system out before I bleed it. Needless to say I never got a chance to flush the system.
    Now why is it that they would tell me to flush the system
    when installing a new pump?

    2. I went through that to get to this.
    I should say my cousin complained of power steering loss because my uncle gave the jeep to his son. Anyway my cousin
    says it was like the steering wheel locked in the coluom.

    If that is the case then it is a bad lock cylinder.
    but do you think the fact that I did not flush the system out could cause some failure in the steering system to cause the steering to lock up like that?

    Sorry for the long post.
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    billy13billy13 Member Posts: 1
    i took my 2004 jeep in for service but the PERFORM SERVICE light was not reset. can i reset it myself or do i need to take it back to the dealer?
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    gmcmsmgmcmsm Member Posts: 1
    My transmission dipstick reading shows within the full range on one side and appears dry on the other. Is this from splatter and still in need of fluid? It seems the stick should be coated like an oil dipstick is. (I would rather ask a stupid question than make a stupid mistake).Thanks
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    mblack3mblack3 Member Posts: 10
    2004 jeep grand cherokee Perform Service Light does anyone know how to reset with out having to take it to dealer?
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    blkhemiblkhemi Member Posts: 1,717
    .....light is easy. First thing, push the step button until you get to "0 miles till service". It should still read 0 because it hasn't been reset yet. Then press and hold the reset button on the overhead console for about 5 seconds. This should reset it to the specified miles till service that you requested and the light should go out.
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    lschmidtlschmidt Member Posts: 8
    My 2005 JGC Tranny just blew. 4th time in for repairs and now needs to be totally rebuilt. Purchased in 4/05, starting having problems 6/05. I got a Lemon!
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    dagoods25dagoods25 Member Posts: 13
    which engine do you have? Was the problem related to the water in the transmission problem or something else?
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    purtyboipurtyboi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Grand Cherokee limited. Just a little bit ago it started to shake a bit when I accelerate anywhere between 35 and 55 mph. When I let go of the gas it doesn't shake anymore and when I am just keeping constant speed it barely shakes at all. but the harder I push the gas the more it shakes. Suggestions??
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    gccambridgegccambridge Member Posts: 24
    The 3.7 has the W5A580 transmission which is from Mercedes and has been around since 1996. Ironically, this was what gave me comfort in buying a first year production Jeep (both tranny and engine have been around long enough)!!! I'm beginning to suspect that the new plant DCM built to make these transmissions may be the culprit... the 4.7 and Hemi have Chrysler trannies... :sick:
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    pezleypezley Member Posts: 2
    This is for a 1985 Jeep Cherokee

    Why is it that they tell you to flush the power steering
    when you put on a new pump? :confuse:

    and how likley is power sterring failure if you don't flush it?
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    rth54rth54 Member Posts: 5
    When my 96 grand cherokee is in 2 wheel drive, the front wheels sqeak when the vehicle is in a turn. This Squeaking decreases significantly when it is in 4 wheel drive. Any tips on how to eliminate this will be appreciated. rth54
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    lschmidtlschmidt Member Posts: 8
    yes problem was from the water in the transmission, running the a/c all summer and water getting in. Havent heard from my dealer in 2 days now or no return phone calls from Chrysler. I have the 3.7 engine. Any suggestions?
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    dagoods25dagoods25 Member Posts: 13
    I had the same situation as did many others...However, I have the 4.7 V8. They had to flush my tranny several times and replace the tourque converter too. It was in about three times before they got it right. I have had it back for several months now and everything appears to be fine. check out http://www.wkjeeps.com/index.htm they have the TSB report that explains how to fix the problem. let me know how it goes!
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    normaldrivenormaldrive Member Posts: 3
    JGC will start but will not idle. I can get it to idle if I give it gas but it will not idle by itself. I also will be driving it down the road and come to a stoplight and if I do not give it gas it will die. In the last week I have replaced the TPS, and IAC on the back of the throttle body. If anyone else has an idea I would appreciate it. I do not think it is wires or plugs or the Fuel pump.
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    xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Make sure you have a clean air filter. Also check the PCV hoses and orifice to make sure they are clear.
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    charmedcraftercharmedcrafter Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Grand Cherokee Jeep. Now when I have my headlights on the light display in my vehicle information center and climate control area will dim then brighten. This is only when I have my headlights on
    The other problem is the memory of where we set our seats and our side mirrors. The seats doesn't change as often as the side mirrors but it is still and annoying problem. Are these things we can fix at home or do we need to spend some big money and have test run on the electrical system?
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    shartshart Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem on my 1997 4.0L Grand Cherokee. It comes and goes; I've had it in dealership three times and they can't locate the problem. Did you get to the bottom of your problem?
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    normaldrivenormaldrive Member Posts: 3
    JGC will start but will not idle. I can get it to idle if I give it gas but it will not idle by itself. I also will be driving it down the road and come to a stoplight and if I do not give it gas it will die. In the last week I have replaced the TPS, and IAC on the back of the throttle body. If anyone else has an idea I would appreciate it. I do not think it is wires,plugs or the Fuel pump. Also checked PCV value and hoses. Will an O2 sensor cause this.
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    kevind1kevind1 Member Posts: 3
    Change your battery. I replaced so much stuff on my car, as did a friend of mine, and we both ended up replacing the battery and it solved the problem. A simple and cheap fix to a problem that plagued many mechanics.

    Good luck!
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    kevind1kevind1 Member Posts: 3
    Replace the battery. I'm telling you, it will work!
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    kevind1kevind1 Member Posts: 3
    Change the battery, I guarantee it will work!
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    lschmidtlschmidt Member Posts: 8
    Jeep is still at dealers, they are replacing transmission, torque converter among other things. I have been without it 7 days so far THIS TIME. Did you ever file a complaint with Chrysler or start the lemon law proceedings? If not, why??
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    dagoods25dagoods25 Member Posts: 13
    Sorry to hear that...I went through the exact same thing. I did not file a complaint or lemon law the car because of a couple of reasons: I love the car (when it’s running); everything was covered under the warranty, the dealership even paid for my rental. I also believe the problem can be fixed. After the converter is replaced, the tranny dipstick needs to be sealed. You can try talking to Chrysler but it’s hard to get someone on the phone that can do anything (I did try that). Keep talking to your dealership about what is being done. Giving up right now and looking into the lemon law proceedings is very tedious, and it varies from state to state. I hope you get the problem resolved; a lot of us went through the same thing. Let me know how it goes.
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    trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    I believe that you did not in fact get all the air out if the system.
    To correctly bleed the power steering system you must: Add fluid till it reaches the cold mark. Then start the engine and allow it to run at a fast idle. Add more fluid if nessasary to reach the cold mark on the dipstick. Bleed the system by turning the wheels side to side WITHOUT hitting the turn stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the reservior full as this is done.When all the air bled out, keep the vehicle running for awhile longer insuring all the air has indeed worked it's way out.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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    spaguy1spaguy1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 GC that has had the check engine light on for months and months. I've taken it to the dealer and they can never pin down an answer - they would rather try and sell me on doing $1000's on Seeping seals.

    Here is where I'm at;

    Serpentine belt broke and damaged radiator....

    1. Replaced water pump and belt
    2. replaced radiator

    Right after this it started stalling at idle and low speed (on the test drive after replacing above items).

    3. replaced plugs, cap, rotor and wires
    4. replaced Oxygen sensors

    After all of this I still have the problem with the low speed and idle stall!

    In addition to this the memory mirrors will not return to the same position ever....

    Any help would be appreciated.
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    1sonarrat1sonarrat Member Posts: 3
    At approx. 76,000 miles the check engine light came on and idle speed seems to be alittle high even though the heater/ac is off. Happened once before at 12,000 miles, then under warranty, the dealership replaced the fuel pump gasket which fixed the problem. Now, I think the problem maybe one of the O2 sensors. (1) Does anyone know if its possible to test these sensors with an ohmmeter? and if so, what kind of readings should I get? (2) Also, if I replace the sensors or any other part, will I need the computer to reset the light?
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    normaldrivenormaldrive Member Posts: 3
    I will try to replace the battery and see if that works.
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    dl8925dl8925 Member Posts: 1
    When I bought the vehicle last summer, it was working fine. Now there is nothing on the display panel. I unscrewed it from the ceiling deck but everythings looks okay visually. The courtesy lights and the moonroof switch are working fine. No frays in the wiring harness, no cracks or loose components. I understand these are non-repairable but are expensive to replace. Anyone have any tips? Thanks in advance.

    Dan
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    mac423mac423 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 jgc, 4 months ago at idle engine would die out and then it would re start immediately. This didn't happen for 4 months now the problem re surfaced.

    Only happens at idle. Mechanic cannot find anything wrong due to no check engine light or malfunction indicator.
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    lschmidtlschmidt Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for your input. I am very frustrated at this point. Chrysler is too now paying for my 5th rental car and all work will be covered by warranty however what if all this work still doesnt do the trick. What if I break down again. I am in Connecticut and have been reading up on the lemon law proceedings, alot of paperwork to fill out. Chrysler is useless to deal with, you have to explain the same things everytime you call. I am at my wits end...
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    kamikaze_jesuskamikaze_jesus Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7 liter V8 at 88k miles. The RPMs will occasionally jump around between 500 and 1,200 at idle. Also, the engine will occasionally die when put into park after stopping. Sometimes, at speed, it will make a clank sound a jerk when I accelerate. It's not a terribly huge problem, but it's terribly annoying when I'm trying to maintain a comfortable ride. I've spent thousands on maintenence and still no dice. I think the problem may lie in the TB (Throttle Body), but that's just a guess. Anyone have any ideas what is wrong?
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    cwilli1cwilli1 Member Posts: 1
    Last week my jeep headlights quite working. Only the Hi Beam are working.
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    jeepgc94jeepgc94 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 grand cherokee and 4 weeks ago while driving down the highway the RPM's went down to 0 for 2-3 secs then kicked backed in. Since then the jeep has started stalling. It stalled yesturday while i had my foot on the accelerator going up a small hill. I put it in neutral and started it back up while i was rolling. These two problems have been happening all the time. The mechanic cannot find a thing since the engine light doesnt come on. I got a new fuel pump 2 years ago, and i start the jeep in the morning for 10-15 minutes to warm up and it idles fine! What's wrong anyone know!???
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    gaz1gaz1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I have a UK spec 2001 4.7L Jeep Grand Cherokee only 32,000 Miles and just had a service. (my first jeep)

    The problem is an intermittent rumbling noise then you turn left (similar sound to a wheel rubbing on something)

    I have checked to see if the wheels are rubbing, nothing.

    I also have read about special axel oil, but don't know if thats what the problem is.

    Somebody please help, if it's oil what type etc

    Thanks so much for any help given
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    fastefaste Member Posts: 7
    own a 2002 jgc with 50,000mi that my wife drives and bought new. within 36,000mi vehicle was in shop 11 times for engine problems(4.0 6cyl. when jeep kicks into od vehicle starts shaking and check engine light starts flashing. when we pull over and cut it off and start it again light stays on but not flashing. this was the problem the11 times. dealer said sparkplugs then trans then exhaust valves and then they don't know. brought in chrysler tech but still wasn't fixed. filed lemon law in feb 05 and went to arbitration in oct 05 and won. chrysler appealed and offered 300.00. we declined and now going to court but not until april 07. i can't believe we have to wait this long to settle this problem. we do have extended warranty and it has helped as jeep continues to give us problems. now it has a ticking noise for the first 5min when starting cold. have used syn oil since new and change it every 3500mi. jeep seems to be doing fine now since we took it to another 5 star dealer. would like to hear from others if it is worth the wait for the trial or should i have to wait this long
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    orlandororlandor Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have the same problem and was wondering if you found a solution
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    volks628volks628 Member Posts: 1
    Hello did you have any luck getting an answer on this? I am having a very similar problem right now and would like to hear what needs to happen to fix it.

    Thanks.
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    fastefaste Member Posts: 7
    we are just waiting and hoping to get offered a settlement from chrysler but i don't see that happening. their original offer isn't worth discussing as it was less than $1000.00. our lawyers have told us not to discuss this but i'm so fed up with them and chrysler and the april 07 court date. i think chrysler is hoping we get rid of it before the court date so as to clear them.
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    rth54rth54 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 96 grand cherokee that's making a rubbing/squeaking noise during turns, especially in 2 wheel drive. I'll be taking it in for a state inspection the end of Feb. My regular mechanic will check it out and I'll let you know what the verdict is then. If you find anything out before then, please let me know. Good Luck. Rob
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    trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Try this quick inexpensive trick. Check your idle air control to see if it sticking in the throttlebody due to varnish and dirt. Use a throtttle body cleaner to clean out the area where the IAC is located on the throttle body, and the IAC itself. Also check your CCV replaces the pvc)to see if it plugged anywheres along the hose, or orfice(where the hose goes into the valve cover).

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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    trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    I really think that checking the ohms on 02 sensors, is not nessacesary, and would it not be prudent to go and purchase a OBD2 scan tool, diagnose, and save yourself some money? Buying one that will reset the pcm codes is recommended, but are rather expensive.

    Good luck m8
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    trickstertrickster Member Posts: 113
    Question: is this noise coming from the front or rear?
    If it is the front, check your bearing hub assembly, to see if there is any play in the assembly. Do you have alxes with constant velocity joints, or u-joints?

    I'm gonig to have to say wheel bearings on this one, as you say you hear this when turning, and that is the first indication that the wheel bearing are going out.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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    eddieeeddiee Member Posts: 25
    I had a 99 Grand Cherokee which I gave to my son.
    I got tired of all the problems and bought a Highlander.

    His most recent problem is that after driving for a while it seems like it's on fire. There is lots of smoke in the rear wheel well. I can't remember which side but I think it was the opposite of the gas filler.

    I had thought it might be a seized caliper but a mechanic checked the brakes and they seemed OK. He didn't notice any brake problems when the incidents occur (pulling, squealing, etc). The smell also wan't what I remember to be typical with cooked brakes.

    I also thought it might be an axle seal that was leaking rear differential oil onto the hot brake assembly but the mechanic who looked at it did find an axle seal leak but on the opposite side as where the smoke was. I guess it is possible that smoke is migrating over to the other side but it doesn't seem to be coming from the side with the known leak. The leak wasn't major. The fluid level in the differential wasn't down.

    Since there is a leak on one side it seems like the best approach is to replace seals on both sides and see if this fixes it.

    Has anyone else had a similar problem?

    Thanks
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