Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
thanks
Quick update. Took it to 2nd dealer for another opinion - they are overhauling the tranny. They say they won't know exactly what is wrong until they take it apart (something likely with 3rd gear)...
4,100 miles and tranny overaul! Scary... Just looking forward to my WK operating properly. :sick:
one month ago and he is having problems with it again. Please forgive my misspelling. I am a very bad speller
I have two questions and I am still going to school for car repair so forgive me it they sound dumb.
1.After I put the pump on and blead the system and sent the vehicle home with my uncle I noticed a tiny piece of
paper in the bottom of the box under the packing material
Instructing me to first flush the system out before I bleed it. Needless to say I never got a chance to flush the system.
Now why is it that they would tell me to flush the system
when installing a new pump?
2. I went through that to get to this.
I should say my cousin complained of power steering loss because my uncle gave the jeep to his son. Anyway my cousin
says it was like the steering wheel locked in the coluom.
If that is the case then it is a bad lock cylinder.
but do you think the fact that I did not flush the system out could cause some failure in the steering system to cause the steering to lock up like that?
Sorry for the long post.
Why is it that they tell you to flush the power steering
when you put on a new pump? :confuse:
and how likley is power sterring failure if you don't flush it?
The other problem is the memory of where we set our seats and our side mirrors. The seats doesn't change as often as the side mirrors but it is still and annoying problem. Are these things we can fix at home or do we need to spend some big money and have test run on the electrical system?
Good luck!
To correctly bleed the power steering system you must: Add fluid till it reaches the cold mark. Then start the engine and allow it to run at a fast idle. Add more fluid if nessasary to reach the cold mark on the dipstick. Bleed the system by turning the wheels side to side WITHOUT hitting the turn stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the reservior full as this is done.When all the air bled out, keep the vehicle running for awhile longer insuring all the air has indeed worked it's way out.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Here is where I'm at;
Serpentine belt broke and damaged radiator....
1. Replaced water pump and belt
2. replaced radiator
Right after this it started stalling at idle and low speed (on the test drive after replacing above items).
3. replaced plugs, cap, rotor and wires
4. replaced Oxygen sensors
After all of this I still have the problem with the low speed and idle stall!
In addition to this the memory mirrors will not return to the same position ever....
Any help would be appreciated.
Dan
Only happens at idle. Mechanic cannot find anything wrong due to no check engine light or malfunction indicator.
I have a UK spec 2001 4.7L Jeep Grand Cherokee only 32,000 Miles and just had a service. (my first jeep)
The problem is an intermittent rumbling noise then you turn left (similar sound to a wheel rubbing on something)
I have checked to see if the wheels are rubbing, nothing.
I also have read about special axel oil, but don't know if thats what the problem is.
Somebody please help, if it's oil what type etc
Thanks so much for any help given
I have the same problem and was wondering if you found a solution
Thanks.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Good luck m8
If it is the front, check your bearing hub assembly, to see if there is any play in the assembly. Do you have alxes with constant velocity joints, or u-joints?
I'm gonig to have to say wheel bearings on this one, as you say you hear this when turning, and that is the first indication that the wheel bearing are going out.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I got tired of all the problems and bought a Highlander.
His most recent problem is that after driving for a while it seems like it's on fire. There is lots of smoke in the rear wheel well. I can't remember which side but I think it was the opposite of the gas filler.
I had thought it might be a seized caliper but a mechanic checked the brakes and they seemed OK. He didn't notice any brake problems when the incidents occur (pulling, squealing, etc). The smell also wan't what I remember to be typical with cooked brakes.
I also thought it might be an axle seal that was leaking rear differential oil onto the hot brake assembly but the mechanic who looked at it did find an axle seal leak but on the opposite side as where the smoke was. I guess it is possible that smoke is migrating over to the other side but it doesn't seem to be coming from the side with the known leak. The leak wasn't major. The fluid level in the differential wasn't down.
Since there is a leak on one side it seems like the best approach is to replace seals on both sides and see if this fixes it.
Has anyone else had a similar problem?
Thanks