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Make sure your foot is off gas pedal when you start and crank it a full 6-7 seconds. Don't stop too soon. I got this tip from a mechanic.
After that it's fuel or ignition and I would start with fuel. Get someone to check fuel pressure or buy your own gauge (which I prefer). Try HarbourFreight.com. If your fuel line has a test port it should be easy to hookup. The port looks like a tire valve and should be under hood and near engine. Buy or borrow a Haynes manual for specs. If pressure is low then you probably have a fuel pump problem. The pump is electrical. It could be an electrical problem and not the pump itself. Find and replace fuel pump relay (< $20). It should be in fuse box under the hood. Maybe you'll get lucky. After that it gets more complicated.
If it's the pump, the pump is probably in the gas tank so find a shop. Remind them to replace all rubber fuel lines connected to the tank with new lines unless the incremental cost is significant.
Thank you on any reply.
About 8,000 mi (I'm not sure) after my last break job, I felt significant pulsing. My mechanic turned the rotors to eliminate this symptom. He did not replace pads. The bad new is that every time you turn your rotors you make them thinner. Each rotor has a minimum thickness so the more often you turn them, the sooner you will have to replace them.
Don't be surprised if a mechanic says you need new rotors. I don't know if they will install new rotors without replacing the pads.
my problem is when i start up my jeep i turn then key and no power till i get to the part where my engine should be turning on thats when i get power to my jeep but the engine does not start .me and my bro tested the starter and of cousre the alternator work (we had both tested) we thing it has something to do with the steering colume but we dont know how to proceed because the jeep should be starting up when we turn the key but it doesnt it take till we turn the key to the point the engine should start to get the dash to power up any help would be awesome :sick:
If vehicle paint and interior are in fairly good condition, engine runs OK, and transmission shifts OK, you have a vehicle that's worth repairing.
If you decide to keep it, get the transmission serviced by draining fluid and replacing filter. Expect to pay extra to replace filter because pan cover must be removed. After next 30,000 mi just servicing fluid should be sufficient.
If you have a 4x4 you should expect more problems and higher maintenance costs compared to a 4x2, but 4x4 is fun!
Good luck
S Swann
if you dont feel the vibrating when you brake, it could be something silly like your wheels needing balancing or there could be a problem with track rod end, ball joint or suspension.
take it to a garage you trust for tehm to look at.
cheers
Also my A/C Clutch fuse keeps blowing. They say the clutch is bad.
ANY IDEAS???
I go through a battery a year sometimes making an 18 month stretch and only once it happened this way.
Good Luck
Jen
(2000 JGC first/only owner)
After replacing your ECM, your problem could be wiring between BCM and ECM, the BCM itself, or both. Or it could be a wiring harness for ECM that connects to engine. Because dash is acting funny, I would look at BCM first.
The only way to know what is going on is to pull the BCM, inspect it and inspect wiring harnesses, i.e. the connectors that plug into BCM. I'd be very surprised to find a damaged section of wire 1/2 way between ECM and BCM. My BCM has 3 connects. 2 are 32 pin and one is 24 pin. The BCM has a lot of wires.
It's a pain to get at. It's under dash. Mine is to left of steering wheel. Disconnect (-) on battery first. Start pulling panels off dash and you should be able to find it. You have to disconnect cables before removing it. Be very careful with connectors. It's easy to break the retaining tabs (I did it). Initially, cables are hard to disconnect. There is risk. The good news is that once you have it you can stop guessing all the time.
1. You could have a broken or bent pin where the cables attach to BCM. Replace BCM.
2. A single wire or group of wires may have pulled out from the connector. You only need repair these wires. Not replace whole harness.
3. The end of the wire may have gotten pushed back into the connector, but it didn't pull completely out. Inspect connector sockets with flashlight.
4. You can try re-installing the BCM and make sure connectors are on tight (push em in). Your problem may have been loose connector.
If you have to really stretch a harness so it can connect to the BCM, that's probably your problem. The original harness is too short. You will have to replace harness.
If you suspect BCM, you can probably get used one for about $200. It has to be programmed with info from your BCM or car won't start. I believe you can find this service on the web. Cost is ?, but certainly a lot less than $2,000.
This is time consuming which is why dealer cost is high. You have to like your car or enjoy this activity.
You will certainly know more about the problem. You could get lucky and spot something obvious that fixes it completely.
Good luck
BTW, I bought this beautiful gunmetal V8, heated leather clad seats, infinity stereo, etc. For 6500 in March 08. For a laredo, it has every option except cd changer. THANK GOD I BOUGHT THE CHRYSLER POWERTRAIN WARRANTY!!!!!!. Chrysler paid out 7200 in replacing the all wheel drive system, engine computer, trans computer, body computer, transfer case, all 4x4 related seals, battery, and two tires, A rental car was provided free. Safford dodge/jeep in Springfield VA is very honest and has always kept their promises, but I just dont buy the fact that I need to replace all 4 tires at once. Please help!! I dont want to mess up my finally-fixed jeep. Thx, Chris :lemon:
Is the mechanic being truthful? The rear tires AREE the exact same size, but a different brand with a more sporty/passenger tire look. I need to go to buffalo in December...will transfer case go bad due to 1/4 inch tread difference?
when you replace only one axel the trans fer case will think that you are sliping one axel and then shift power to the axel with old tires then shift back and forth as you go down road
with 1/4 inch deffrence the tire will travel aprox 1/2 foot less than the axel with new tires thus working the viscus clutch pack in the transfer (that is the weakes iten in transfer case)
Can I guess the rear end is a DANA 35c? How can I tell if it's a DANA 44? The bearings/seals are different according to a couple parts houses I've browsed.
Anybody changed axle bearings? Do you need a press? Are there any not-so-obvious gotcha's?
Any gouge will be appreciated.
Cheers --- Clip
I have an 05 GC 5.7hemi with the same issue, I have had the torque converter replaced and even looked at several engine side components but have not found anything.
I thought it was an adjustment in the steering wheel security lock mechanism (they don't make it that way any more) but it turns out I needed a new key tumbler mechanism. 10% or so of the time when starting with either my wifes or my key, the ignition switch would not turn; I got it to turn after multiple tries and twisting the steering wheel, hence why I thought it was a wheel locking defect. At least we caught it before it failed 100% stranding us somewhere.
Besides that I had the power window up TSB regulator replacement done last Spring, a minor inconvenience and more of a design defect than a fail (the window went up just not automatically all the time) mentioned otherwise on the JGC window sub-forum. And still the Radio AUX won't go back to AUX after more than a few minutes of power off problem, mentioned on the radio forum last Spring, and while a nit, a true design problem confirmed at the dealership. I would give the vehicle about a 8 out of 10 with the "new car honeymoon over" almost a year after purchase. I will probably give it a 9 again in 2 months during a snowstorm and it pulled my medium size boat very well all summer. Hopefully the quality will hold up as well or better than our 01 Laredo that is still going strong for my son at 92k miles. And if not Chrysler is still around in 7-10 years if we need to call on our lifetime warranty ....
Okay, I have cleaned the Throttle body and the IAC. I have replaced the throttle position sensor. I have changed the fuel filter. I have shortened the screws to the PCM. I have tried unpluggin the AC. Still no luck. I dont know if fuel injector cleaner will help, if I should change the crankshaft postion sensor, if I should change the camshaft positon sensor, or if I should be dumping the truck and never buying a jeep again! I need some help. Anyone???
I have some suggestions which helped me.
Do a compression test. See HarbourFreight.com for gauges. If test results not too bad, then you have a chance. If you don't have compression, correcting other problems may not help much.
Service ignition (plugs, wires, and coil) to eleminate that area as an unknown.
Next, get the Haynes manual and go thru the section on emission controls and do every sensor, component, etc. test. You may have to create special test leads. See Radio Shack for miniature test clips and wire.
Then, disconnect every vacuum line from the intake manifold except crankcase ventilation and plug the manifold openings. Make sure crankcase hose is OK. Any hoses to the air filter should be plugged after disconnecting. If it runs better, you have a vacuum peripheral issue. Reconnect vacuum lines one at a time to see what might be causing the problem.
If you make improvements, but idle is still rough, consider replacing intake manifold or least re-torque the bolts.
My one experience with this sort of thing was on my 97 jeep. It idled very rough. Would almost stall. There was no single item responsible for the problem. It was a collection of little problems and as I addressed each one it ran better. Idle is a little rough because compression on cylinder 2 was a little low, but no driveability problems.
If all else fails and you have time, replace intake/exhaust gasket and see what happens On 4.0L I6 they are combined. It's mostly labor. Gasket is not a big $ item. You can guarantee the intake gasket is not working as good as when it was new.
Some how I have a love-hate relationship with this car and KEEP putting money into it....
I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee Ltd. The tire pressure monitor light comes on & the dealer suspects one of the sensors is the problem. In my opinion this feature is nothing more than a pain in my back side. It appears as though the monitor circuit is fused, (10A), but what I don't know is if the fuse can be pulled w/o creating a tsunami of additional problems. Any help would be appreciated.
The best solution is to disable the output of the sensor. My guess is the dealer wants $400 or more to fix it.
Because it is related to safety you might have to do it yourself. A mechanic might not do it. I'm 99% sure dealer won't do it.
First, get a Haynes manual and look for repair info or wiring diagrams.
The output of the sensor is probably a digital (1 or 0) input to your Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM reads sensor and turns the light on or off.
NOTE: ALWAYS HAVE (-) OF BATTERY DISCONNECTED WHEN MANIPULATING CONNECTORS OR WIRES, HOOKING UP A TEST PROBE, ETC.
You need to measure voltage output at the sensor when warning light is On and Off. If the values switch between 0V (Gnd) and 12-14V (battery) continue.
Otherwise stop. If sensor module uses data bus to communicate with BCM, you cannot disable it and fake out the BCM. You will have to replace the sensor module.
If the light is on for 0V, you will have to pull the input high (battery) to fake out the BCM. It's very possible that disconnecting output of sensor to BCM will be sufficent.
If you measure (battery) when light is on, you will have to find a way to ground the input to the BCM.
In either case the sensor output is left disconnected.
Use a clip lead to test your solution. If OK, implement a permanent solution. You will have to backprobe nearby connectors. You will need a voltmeter probe with a long thin point. After you find a good location, you will have to improvise a connection.
Test drive alone (no family) where there is little or no traffic.
Unless you know sellers, what are the odds of finding a 94 engine with less than 100K miles ?
I looked at my 97 shop manual. Maybe this info will help. The first thing they recommend is a test for spark at the coil.
1) Disconnect igniton coil secondar from center tower of distributor cap. Hold cable terminal approximately 1/2 in. from good engine ground.
2) Crank engine with starter and observe cable terminal for a steady arc. If steady arc does not occur, inspect the secondary coil cable. Also inspect distributor cap and rotor for cracks or burn marks. Repair as necessary. If steady arcing occurs, connect ignition coil calbe to distributor....(and then they discuss observing arc at ignition wires, etc.
If you really like the car try to buy a shop manual.
Some other thoughts.
1) You must be able to measure fuel pressure
2) Wiring/connectors between engine computer and ignition components?
3) What about the automatic shutdown relay ?
4) The Body Control Module (BCM) and engine computer must communicate to start. Replacing BCM requires reprogramming BCM or it won't start. Is there a similar issue when you replace the engine computer?
If you fix it, let us know what it was.
I am guessing this happens when the front axle is binding a little from being on dry pavement when the transfer case finally decides to disengage. When the vehicle was newer it did this once or twice, now it is constant. I have had the case and axle fluids changed at the proper maintenance schedule using factory fluids.
It has 63k on it and is still in warranty. I am bringing it to the dealer this week and was hoping for any advise from other owners with similar problems so I know how to respond if the dealer tries to give me a song and dance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
yesterday the oil pressure gage went to 0 and stayed there
any ideas what my problem might be ?