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I know this is an old post, but I have the same problem! Works ok in 4 Lo, but no traction/engagement at front wheels in full time 4 Hi with Quadra Trac II. Anyone know of the fix for this?? Thanks!
I want to make sure the dealer will warrentee as part of the drivetrain. I have talked to jeep service guy who owns the same truck. He said that sometimes his does not disengage right away so he stops and backs up and it comes right out. Mine does only sometimes no matter how far I back up.
Now your trans, have they dropped the pan? Whats it look/smell like?If it has metal and smells burnt then pull the unit and have it rebuilt.
Not sure how many miles but a 95 with anything over 70,000 is going to need a master rebuild kit and not just gaskets and seals.
You may have misunderstood the "new" transmission quote,there is no one that I am aware of that sells a "new" or fact reman unit for that.A good rebuild is over 2K,factory rebuild or a Japser is a bit more.For 1300 that might be a used unit,what is warranty on it?
Place foot on brake, hold it--at the same time turn key in this manner--on-off,on-off,on.
Sometimes this will clear codes and problems.
If this does not work---disconnect the negative batt cable and let it sit for ten min. Usually this will clear any codes and bring everything back to normal.
The key trick clears my ck eingine light problems.
Good luck
Smokey Swann
Good luck --- Clip
Oh, the cruise control..... Had a friend long ago, ME, got some vacuum hoses twisted around, and when I thought the'y'd "ONLY connect to those ports one way", It wasn't right at all. Vacuum came up -- so did the rev's--so did the vacuum--so did the rev's, etc.
Scarry stuff isn't it? Spine jumps right out of the skin, huh?
At the time mine was acting-up, I'd considered making a plane out of it.
Just wouldn't have been as much fun though.
You be careful, patient and consider, carefully, what's going on, and you'll be just fine. Have fun.
You should have seen the look on the face of the service manager when I took the car back in for them to check it out and I told him what had happened!
the shake could be that you did not get the front hub in strait when you tightened the 3 bolts that hold it in make sure that you didnt get dirt behind it (between the mount serfus and the hub)
Thanks ,
soxfansc
here is a url that you can use to see what you need to do
http://www.autozone.com/UseCase,L001/UserAction,logout/getInTheZone.htm
later
My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited comes with a dual electronic AC/Heater control. AC works excellent. No leaks. Radiator tank is always fine on level. When turning up the temperature to get the heater runningl; nothing happens. Air goes from cold to a regular blowing temp. When weather is kind of cold and car has been running for a while you are able to see some fumes coming thru the vents. They smell like antifreeze but I have never found any leak below the dash nor below the car. Would anyone guide me in the right direction in order to try cheap things first and than go from there.
I've heard it could be the heater core, motor blowers..
Anyone that could help me, really much appreciate it.
Thanks alot.
When you replace the gear nest, the pinion gear (the one where the front driveshaft connects to should not be tampered with, for it does not need to be removed. If the pinion gear, is in fact, the one that is damaged, then replacing it will be more difficult than you think, because there is in fact what they call a "crush" sleeve. This sleeve sets the load/preload for the differential in order to set the lash/backlash for the gears to mesh properly.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Try this: you can go and get an off the shelf bottle of coolant flush and use as directed which probably will fix your problem (fingers crossed). Or you can try this: drain the system of coolant. Take the thermostat out and refill the system with water. Add dishwasher washing crystals to the radiator (about 4 cups). The crystals act like sandpaper and blast away the built up crud from years non- preventive maintainence.
Drain the system from the lower radiator hose, refill with water, let run for awhile and drain again.Repeat as needed until most or all of the crystals have left your cooling system.Replace your thermostat with a new one (while your at this stage anyways) and refill with a 50/50 mix of prestone coolant and water.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
The diff in your particular year is more than likely a spicer35 in the front, and a spicer 30 in the rear. These are the most common setups in jeep products. Talk to any gear centers, or driveline centers in your area about replacing the gear nest in your diff.
By the way, i've replaced 20+ gear nests over the years, and never had to replace the pinion; unless the pinion was damaged, or needed replacing.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
I cannot see internal transmission failure, because you state that in fact there is smooth gear transitioning. I assume that other than using more fuel to get you where you want to go everything else is fine regarding the transmission. There is a governor sensor located inside the transmission pan, and that needs to be changed. I would have a compentent shop or dealership do the work, (it really is messy work), and since your at the point, changing your transmission filter is a very good idea (about $30 ). A good idea for the first 2 weeks after the fix, is to put cardboard on the ground under the transmission. Or just keep an eye on it. Transmission pans have a tendency to leak from the bolts loosening off, and will need to be re-torqued to spec, unless you ask them to use lock-tite on the bolts.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
Kill engine.Drop the golve box lid all the way down. You will need to release the rubber stops and flex the two pins on the top of the lid so that it will come all the way down.
At the left side you will see a squarish black box attached to the blower housing.Remove the two srews holding it. Lift the housing away from the blower house(leave wireing connected). Pay attention to the shaft alignment. Turn the switch on. Set air to floor. Manipulate the heat control. If the shaft ring does not move within the motor housing do this. remove the 4 screws on the housing. Slowly lift the side off to expose the gears. Remove the three regular gears to expose the worm gear.Again manupilate the heat control. If the worm gear does not move.---Remove the tiny motor and turn the screw by hand to free it up. Again see if the motor will run. If it runs--- replace everthing. Reattach the motor housing to the blower housing and try it out again. That fixed my problem at no cost--just time and frustration Good luck--Smokey Swann---Tx
I drove it approximately 30 miles today and it ran fine but when I took a lefthand turn three blocks from my house it just died. I tried to start it and I get the starter turning but it won't turn over.
I thought it might be the fuel filter so I let it sit for about an hour thinking that if it was clogged the sediment might settle but got the same result.
Any suggestions?
Anyway, at least you were close to home. Merry Christmas.
Clip
Has anybody seen this before or any possible suggestion?
Thank you
Two days ago after cutting my jeep off I noticed the fan running.. I know it is normal but it remained on after 1 hour.. So i unplugged it by the radiator.. 45 mins. or so later i plugged it back in to see if it would still be on and it stayed off. On the drive home I noticed that I was starting to overheat at idle.. Checked when temp was high and fan was not on..
Changed Coolant temp sensor
checked fuses.
cant locate fan relay..
a/c works and fan doesn't come on
fan is working when I jumped it to battery.
Can anyone help diagnose this problem.. Please.
I have a 260 amp alt- 3 batts, and 6000 watts on 2-18's This is a daily driver and Competition vehicle. I do not want to overheat and ruin the motor. (not a fan of the 4.0L but it is what I have)
I do all the wiring on my Car Audio and have decent knowledge of 12volt systems.. I was a mechanic years ago but changed jobs due to eye injury.. So I have some knowledge of automotive trouble shooting and diagnostics. II need advise from someone who knows this specific vehicle.. Any help would be appreciated.
If anyone has questions about car audio/jeeps i would be glad to assist as well.
With electical power on, grounding the electrical connection to the correct sensor should fire up the fan. If I'm wrong about this one, someboby please chime in.
Happy New Year --- Clip
I have a friend who JUST paid off his 99 JGC and EVERYTHING is going on it. It seems like a money pit and I told him that. I'd like to hear from others.
He has a rear wheel seal and bearing that is going out. It is leaking all over the place. He also had the Pitman gear box that goes through a pint of fluid every 20 miles. Warped brake rotors, and a slew of other little problems that are going to add up.
He can not afford another vehicle, nor can he afford the repairs. I think he should sell it and get what he can for it and get something else. What do you all think.
I was having the same problems the fan would stay on( but i just re-started it and it turned off) and the lights would dim, it would over heat in slow driving or when stopped, and it would hesitate turning on. turns out my fan motor had died and the car was trying to cool its self and the battery and alternator were fine i just over worked them. I had to replace the entire fan assembly and a new battery it cost a pretty penny and took sometime but it worked. There was a recall on my fan assembly that was checked out by a dealership in Florida and they said everything was fine back then and sense they checked it out my local Jeep dealership said there was nothing they could do. but good luck! Jeeps are awesome the mechanic said that he was surprised that it went so long (5 weeks )
I do have another question though, the starter runs but the engine doesn't engage.
I tried hitting on the starter with a mallet to see if it might be locked up but that proved useless.
I guess I'm questioning the bad starter because I didn't think that if it just stalled when I turned a corner that a bad starter could cause it to stall? Can a bad starter cause problems when the vehichle is already running?
Needless to say I'm not a mechanic so if my question seems dumb I apologize!
Thanks again.
As to why it quit? No guess. As to the starter situation, I'd say a remann'ed starter assembly is just about a must.
Happy New Year --- Clip
My 97 would kill and I would have zero power; no radio, starter, lights, etc. If I moved the tilt wheel up and down, the power would come back on. The issue was a short in the ignition wiring. I pulled the cover off the steering column, repaired the contacts and made sure there were no bare wires. That was 20k miles ago and no problems since.
Has anyone else had this problem? How about solutions?
It was a slight crack in the coil wire which contacted metal when I turned the corner and was shorting out the system. I replaced the wire and we're on the road again.
Very lucky find!!!
Thanks again to everyone that gave ideas.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8
Regards Ellach2