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Toyota Sequoia Accessories and Modifications
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Comments
The low volume is for the CD and radio. Basically, if you turn it all the way to "max", you can hear sound at a "normal" listening level. The RSE has no video or audio when the engine is running. However, it works fine when the engine is off and the ignition is on ACC or ON.
1) overall diameter of tire/rim
2) off-set
3) back-spacing.
The overall diamter of the stock tire/wheel combo is roughly 30.5 inches. You can safely go to about 31.5 inches and not experience any rubbing on the fender or suspension components. You cannot go larger unless your vehicle is lifted. Keep in mind that any tire/wheel combo that differs from your stock diameter will affect your speedo and odometer. If you go larger, you will actually be traveling faster than your speedo says and you will rack up miles at a slower pace. Just the opposite with a smaller wheel/tire.
The off-set and back-spacing are very critical for an obstruction free fit and no rubbing. Off-set is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the exact center line of the wheel. Back-spacing is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the outer edge of the rim (the side that faces the axle).
I run 20 x 8.5" wheels with 10mm off-set and 5.14" back-spacing on 295/45/20 tires and experience no rubbing on the upper control arms or even lock-to-lock turns. That tire size is very, very close to the stock diameter. You could also run 285/50/20's without any trouble.
Consult a professional to make sure your wheels are fit properly. You don't want to sacrifice safety!
Thank you for your responses to all of my posts. I had the skidplate installed at the dealer. They ended up installing it for free since I had to wait over 2 hours. I should have paid more attention to your posts regarding getting 22" rims. I went to two tire centers to try to get them installed, but in the end, the rims would not fit. They said the offset was not correct (I got Bazo B26 rims, 22x9.5, with an offset of 18). I'm not very clear of what offset means, but the technician said I needed a more positive offset, around 40. Anyways, I am going to return these rims and get 20x9.0 ones instead. Any idea on the offset I will need for 20"? It comes in offset of either 35 (with hub bore of 78.1) or 18 (with hub bore of 87). All of these terms are foreign to me. Also, any suggestion on the tire size? I was thinking of getting 295/45/20 maybe? You can check out the website if it helps: http://www.bazowheels.com/index.asp
Thanks again for your help. :sick:
Dave
The off-set is the distance of the mating surface of the wheel from the exact center line of the wheel. The back-spacing is the distance from the mating surface of the wheel to the outer lip of the wheel (on the side that faces the axle).
My wheels are 20 x 8.5 with a 10mm off-set. If your wheel is 9" wide then you are adding .25 inches to each side of wheel. To place that 9" wheel at the same off-center distance of the 8.5" wheel, the off-set would need to be about 7mm more (.25"), so the 18mm off-set that is mentioned on the Bazo site should fit, but again the bore numbers you mentioned seem too small for Toyota.
I think you should really consider looking elswhere for your wheels. If you bought them locally, then they should be smart enough to know what will fit your vehicle. If you bought them on-line, they should be a little more heads-up too! You really need to find someone who knows what they are doing and are not just interested in selling you wheels of any size.
I got my wheels from these folks. Check it out:
http://www.weldracing.com/index.html
They are very high quality wheels, bred from a racing background. They are located in Kansas City, which is where I purchased my vehicle. The dealer had an arrangement with them. They also have a very good warranty on the finish of their wheels. My 20 x 8.5" wheel and 295/45/20 tires only weigh 1 pound more than the stock 17's so they are very light as well. I have the Espada 6 in their Evo line of wheels. I am very happy with them. They are not hard to clean either because of their very non-porous finish.
As far as size of tire........the 295/45/20's are OK. They are a hair smaller than stock, so at about 60 mph, I am actually traveling about 58.5mph. I verified this with GPS tracking. You would be OK as well with 285/50/20's, which are slightly larger than stock. I think if I had it to do over, I would go with a 285/50/20 because it looks a little better with more tire in the wheel well, plus your odometer will move slower. The Toyo Proxes ST tires I am running though are very sticky and handle well on dry and wet pavement. Better to have a good tire than the exact size you want because not all manufacturers make them in every size.
Good luck!
I am an engineer and a SUCKER for the newest technology. I really wanted to disable the region code that prevents you from watching foreign or copied dvds AND watch those dvds while driving. I did a lot of research and believe the Toyota nav system detects movement through GPS. Sadly, the only conclusion I see is to replace the toyota system with an import from Hong Kong that doesn't have safety hang-ups (EBAY ~ $800).
However, I recently put the PowerQuick for the fuel injector (it's a magnet that costs about $150 and very easy to install - takes about 2-3 minutes to install), and I'm gaining about a mile and a half more per gallon. I also installed a volt stabilizer w/ ground wires and gaining about 1/2 mile per gallon (takes about 30 minutes to install).
Overall, w/ your 20" rims, I don't think you'll encounter the problems.
So are you done with your sound system? How is it?
I have a 04 Limited 4Runner(V6) and recently got AVN-30D installed. I have been told that the subwoofer won't work as there is no amp output and in order to get it work I need to install the pioneer amp. Should I be going for it? Will it produce the same quality sound which was being produced by the JBL Audio system?
Thanks,
Parshu
Does your 4Runner have a factory sub woofer? I assume you are powering your factory speakers in all 4 doors with your AVN unit.
The AVN30D is really no different than many aftermarket head units. It has a built in 4 channel amp that puts out about 15 watts RMS per channel and about 50 watts peak. It does not have pre-amp outputs (RCA jacks). That does not mean you can't use an external amp, you just need a Line Output Converter to convert the high-level output to a low-level output (RCA jacks) to feed your amp. You could also use an amp that has speaker-level inputs.
If you are trying to compare the AVN30D with the AVN5435, then yes, there is a difference because the 5435 has three sets of RCA outputs (one for a subwoofer). It also has subwoofor contour controls.
Let me know what your intentions are with a subwoofer and I might be able to help. What is the Pioneer amp you speak of? A factory amp?
Problem is that they told me that they can not plug in my subwoofer to AVN-30D and as a solution they asked me to put a some pionner amplifier (50W) to get the same quality of sound which I was getting with the original sound system. I have been told that my car has a subwoofer on the right side of the rear passenger seat.
Just want to understand what modifcation is this about and will this give me the original sound quality which I was getting with JBL system?
Thanks in advance.
If you want to keep all your stock speakers, the easiest solution would be to run an LOC off of one of the rear door speakers to get your low-level source to power a small amp for your subwoofer. DavidNavone.com has some very high quality adapters to get your pre-amp level output. Not familiar with the Pioneer amp, but 50 watts is probably plenty to power the factory subwoofer.
The sound quality with your factory speakers won't be any worse than before, except that your subwoofer is not being used right now. The only way to really improve the sound quality is to replace the speakers and power them with an external amp.
Think about what you want for the future before you go buy any of this. If it were me, I'd trash all your factory speakers and replace them with better quality and power them from a good 5 channel amp. The factory speakers are very average and can't handle much power. They can certainly handle what the AVN30D can throw at them though.
CO. and do lots of driving out in the middle of nowhere and the extra lighting would be great. Also, if anyone would have a pic, that would be great.
It's an 06 timberland jade limited. The grille guard would cover the the whole front end and be black.
Thanks for the comments.
Just do all of us a favor and tell us what roads you drive - so the rest of us can avoid them.
The external amp is located under the tray in the center console. While it is an analog amp, it is turned on by a digital signal from the head unit. So the amp is useless without the head unit to turn it on.
The three-way component sytem in the front doors is also an odd setup. Tweeter is in the sail panel of door, 7" woofer and 2" mid are located in the lower door. Crossovers are built into the factory amp. There are coaxials in the rear doors.
Depending on what your desires for a new system are, you will be much better off replacing the entire system like I did. For the reasons mentioned above, replacing any one of the factory system components is difficult and the resultant increase in sonic quality will be small.
Consult a local audio install shop for suggestions and find out if they have experience with your specific vehicle.
I saw your pictures on your mods and was just lookng at the running board lights. I was just in the garage thinking how I could do this add on myself.
I was wandering if you can help me out here. Where did you get the lights firstly, and how did you wire them in? are they wired so they come on when you hit the remote entry or when you turn on the lights or signals? If you have a play by play install method, that be fantastic. Really appreciate your help on this.
Mike
My goal was to increase travel, so I couldn't stop there. My next concern was the stock ball joint, so I replaced the upper control arm with Total Chaos arms which allow for increased travel with a much stronger ball joint. Of course the increased travel also means new Bilstein shocks and a limit strap. I fit 285/75/16 BFG KMs with minimal rub to the mud flap.... so they had to be removed and replaced with a chunk of mud flap off an 18 wheeler. I did not loose any turning radius, but there is a slight frame rub at full turn... not enough to bind up. The truck handles great on and off road.
Posted photo today with list of mods in the photo forum.
I am going to install 2 amp on the factory stereo. Does anyone have any suggestions where to mount them.
Thanks
Thanks