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Comments
If the pump shuts off as you begin fueling, completely remove the nozzle and let the trapped air escape (about 15 secs for my car). Once you no longer hear the escaping air, you can fuel up normally. Do not push the little flap open as this will not let all the air escape.
I also noticed that the outside temperature reading is sometimes wrong. When it is 70F outside the gauge reads 18F. I am wondering if the problems are connected?
Can anyone shed some light.
Thanks in advance.
The outside display is just a sensor around the grill of the car so I really doubt that is related. You should check it to be sure it's not set to centigrade somehow and then alert the dealer on your next service visit.
JR
I'm sure it's not set to celsius, but I'll have it checked next service visit
Thanks
Changing the oil is the key to the ability of the turbo to survive under any circumstances.
Regards,
JR
If you have found the solution, I would be grateful if you shared it here. Thanks.
Earlier once too, I had the check engine problem with the gas-cap error code even though the cap was tight. The emission check.guys checked the gas cap and found it faulty. I replaced it and within a few miles the warning disappeared.
BKH
If this is the case then it's likely normal as in stop-and-go driving the electronic fans will kick in at the higher temperatures and bring the gauge down. Once it starts to creep up again due to the lack of movement and airflow over the radiator the cycle will repeat. On the highway the fans don't come into play as there is a nice steady airflow over the radiator to keep things at a constant temperature.
If this is not the case then further investigation may be in order to check the thermostat and fan relays etc...
JR
Yesterday I was driving and had basically lost all function of the clutch. Managed to get it to the dealer limping along in first/second. I am now told that the clutch and flywheel are worn and "fried" (my term not theirs). I was told that one clutch is covered under warranty but otherwise this would be a $2000 repair.
This is the sixth manual transmission I have had. I have never worn a clutch out in less than 90K miles. I like to think that I know how to drive one but now I am getting VERY worried. I don't think that I am doing anything wrong with the car and I noticed one other post of the exact same issue.
Does anyone else have a similar experience? Is driving an Audi stick that different than any other car? I am really of the opinion that at 10K miles, the problem is more likely to have been caused by a defective part than operator error. In any case, it's getting fixed under warranty....and that's what those are for.
I don't want to complain about my Audi because as I said above the dealer and car have been great so far.
Also- my sister has a 99 1.8 quattro and she is having the same problem. Maybe this is a common problem?? Im not sure...
i bought a certified A4 less than 12 months ago, and had to go in for some service issues.
one issue is apparently covered under the warranty, but the other issue is not. i was told that due to the rust underneath the car, the flex pipe of the exhaust (andy possibly other parts) needs to be replaced. unfortunately, this isn't covered under the warranty.
my question is, if the car was certified, shouldn't audi have replaced the worn out parts of the exhaust before claiming that it was "certified" and then selling it. i'm sure that 9 months (and less than 5000 miles) of driving didn't wear and tear the exhaust system to the point of making it necessary to be replaced. right?
what are your thoughts?
thanks guys.
ACAC
Have anyone heard of such a thing as a 10,000 miles interval for an oil change on an Audi. I would like to hear from you guys what have you done. Did you pay for the "unscheduled" oil change out of your pockets? Did you convinced the dealer to change the oil for free? Is it safe to wait till 15,000 for the next change? As a side note, I am planning to keep leasing when this experies in 33 months.
Thanks in advance
While my car was in the shop I heard rumors about a class action lawsuit regarding this type of 1.8T failure. Does anyone know where I can go to get some information on this issue to see whether I qualify for any type of reimbursement from Audi?
Drowning in debt...
Thanks for any help you may be able to give me on the issue!
regards
kanthan
On the belt, I would suggest you call Audi of America directly to full story. You don't state the mileage at which it happened and I think that plays a big role in any help they may offer you. I suggest you be polite but firm if the belt went at mileage below the recommended change interval and you may be able to get some assistance in that huge repair bill.
JR
http://www.boston.com:80/business/articles/2005/07/17/class_action_can_be_engine_of_change-
Hopefully I can get some type of compensation from Audi for the repairs. My timing belt failed at approximately 70,000 miles, right after a scheduled oil change. After reading up on Audi engine failures it sounds like my mechanic should have been more knowledgeable of the 1.8T and done a better job flushing out the engine.
Thanks for your suggestions. If anyone else has been or is in a similar situation let me know if you have any new information.
DD
I post a message a month ago and unfortunately didn't get any response, anyway..... my car is at the dealer since last Thursday and they still don't know what is the problem. They are assuming it has to do with the immobilizer system. My question is: does any of you had a problem with the immobilizer. I have A4 2003 at $33,000 miles. Here is the info that I found on the internet: Engine fails to start or starts briefly then dies, this is a very common fault with the key code immobilizer system there are many causes of this, the most common is the key itself or the connection from the inductive sensor around the ignition barrel to the immobilizer ECU, the wring from the sensor to the ECU should be removed the connections need to be cleaned with suitable circuit cleaner then relocate the wiring loosely down the steering column so that it is not under any tension at all, then reconnect the multi plugs to the ECU and inductive sensor then harness into place with a cable tie. This is a very common problem it is a built in design floor with the VAG immobilizer systems.
Dealer corrected it after 2 visits. It never re-occurred
thanx alot for all your input.
This is also not my first car with a manual transmission, but it is definitely the first one on which I had to replace the clutch this early and often.
This message probably doesn't help you find a solution, but at least you know there is someone else who is not completely satisfied with his Audi clutch.
I have a 1997 A4 1.9TDi with 275,000 on th the clock.The car is going the best but there is a problem with acceleration. When there is any kind of loading on the engine ie going up hill on motor way or driving on wet roads the acceleration cuts out at 70mile/hour. (60miles in fourth gear) the throttle is still there and the rev counter still goes up but there is no power it feels like the turbo just cuts out.Once the power goes the only way to get it back is to switch the engine of and restart. Full power is restored then immediately. Like i say its seems to happen when the engine is under extra loads and only occurs in 4th and fifth gear . Does anyone know what is causing this?What can i do to rule out the electronic throttle as i have been told is a possible cause.?
Does anyone know some in the UK that could help, or is there anyone on here in the UK local to me (I am down in Devon) that may be technically minded to assist me.
Thanks
Graham
I just bought a brand new 2006 A4 Avant Quattro and have been experiencing the same problems in just 2nd and now 3rd month of driving it. First time, when the mechanic at the Audi dealership denied reset 'something' after his comuter show that there was 'something' faulty in the transmission. They don't even give any straight answer and he basically denied experiencing the problem while test driving my car - quite interesting since I was able to point the noisy shifting everytime the car was slowing down or coming to a stop. Then, he simply said that indeed the shifting down was a bit hard. A bit! I would rather say it was harsh a big deal! A couple of weeks since that time, the problem is starting to reappear and is getting really bad.
There are two people in the household who drive this car, but our driving habits are very similar, and there is no way this car will be driving by one person only.
Any suggestions on how to fix this problem - because it appears that the mechanics at the dealership have no clue.