Try posting in our BMW 3-Series: 2005 and earlier discussion. There are a lot of folks there who can probably give you some advice.
But I have a tip for you ... don't post in all caps. It looks like you are yelling at us, it's hard to read and for that reason a lot of people will just skip it.
Hello fellows, I must begin with by saying that this car is truely awesome!!..
My question is, how can one find out wether his car is having a Timing chain or a Timing belt..?? Also when should one think about replacing it (after how many miles).
My car's model is : 2001 BMW 325i Preminum package.
I've been jockeying back and forth on an '06 330i "automatic" and an '06 IS 350.
Bot some questions on the BMW side of the ledger. I now the car comes with synthetic oil. I also know there are no pre-described oil change intervals....just what the computer designates. Anyone have any experience with the typical oil change intervals via tha computer? Anyone know how those intervals affects long term longevity?
Observations.....
Saw the discussion on the "run flat" tires. After extensive test driving (some of it very spirited on bad roads), I don't feel they detract from the ride, nor the handling of the 3 Series. Longevity may be a different story.
I drove a model with I-Drive. I know this option has been much maligned in the press. But, coming from an Acura TL with Nav, which is generally thought to be one of the best Nav systems out there, I gotta say I prefer the I-Drive. It boots up almost instantaneously (certainly much faster than the Acura). It allows you to view a map, as well as another function (like stereo opreation) simultaneously (one function displayed at a time with the TL). Voice recognition is much better with I-Drive over the TL. And, probably the biggest advantage, you can operate the I-Drive without taking your eyes off the road (TL uses a touch screen....you have to avert your eyes off the road to use it).
I don't know how this I-Drive version compares to earlier versions, but I like it. Wasn't thinking of getting the I-Drive option, but am reconsidering.
The rest of the car is as good or better than all the trade rags say.
Anyone have any experience with the typical oil change intervals via tha computer? Anyone know how those intervals affects long term longevity?
The E90 calculates an OCI of @15K. I'm not too impressed with BMW's synthetic so I use Mobil 1 0W-40 and I change it every 7.5K(it's an easy DIY job, and costs less than $50). I also change the "Lifetime" final drive and transmission fluids every 50K. Note that I tend to keep my Bimmers for 130K miles or more. If I was dead certain that I was going to flip the car in 3-5 years I'd just follow the BMW maintenance schedule.
Thanks div2. I know me. I will "flip" the 330i, if I buy it, in 3 years. It's still a horse race between it and the IS 350. I keep coming back to the 330i because of its driving dynamics and ride/handling setup. That IS 350 sure is fast, though (it's just so "peaky" in its power delivery, however).
I'm certain BMW doesn't refine it's own synth oil. So, they have to buy it from someone and slap their name on it.
Thanks for replying, also it would help a lot if you can give me some idea as to what should be the symptoms that are needed to be watched which can indicate that the timing chain should be replaced. My car had aroung 85K miles on it.
I have a 1995 318ic convt. Question is the bottom of my car is not painted the color of the rest of the car It is a flat color and I have seen some 95 that are painted to match the body color. Why is this. thanks jim
Question is the bottom of my car is not painted the color of the rest of the car It is a flat color and I have seen some 95 that are painted to match the body color. Why is this?
Most all 1992-1995 3ers had gray bumpers and rockers-except M3s of course. Those that have body color rockers and bumpers have either been repainted or fitted with BMW's M-Technic side skirts. Later 3ers were all fitted with those skirts from the factory.
it would help a lot if you can give me some idea as to what should be the symptoms that are needed to be watched which can indicate that the timing chain should be replaced.
You'll get a loud growling noise on start up. I wouldn't sweat it; the chain will likely last for another 120K miles.
You'd only need to worry if it got radically loose. Then it could start damaging things inside the timing case cover--but by that time you'd be stuffing cotton in your ears.
I have seen loose chains break tensioners and actually jam the engine, without themselves breaking.
If it were my car, I'd say I'd start to worry if the noise DID NOT go away substantially after the engine was thoroughly warmed up and in use during the day.
i am currently trying to sell a 2003 325i. orient blue with beige leatherette,at, ac,pw,pl,coldweather package,premium package,moonroof,garage kept,non-smoker,cpo warranty,52,800 miles. i am now asking $23,000. is this a fair price? car is in very good condition.
Hello, I have a 325i sedan with around 87K miles on it, it was working great till about 3-4 days back when i started seeing "Service Engine Soon" alert. I did Oil change (Mobil 1, synthetic), transmission fluid change and air filter change (and few other maintenances) only 2-3 months back.
I thought that this could be due to poor quality gas or i must have left the gas tank cap not properly closed, but later on i saw that it was properly closed and i even filled in best quality Shell gas.
Please help me get some idea as to what could be the reason why this is happening, Even with the warning light I had to drive to work today (The light came back after 5-10 minutes of driving). :-) I hope im not doing too much damage to my bimmer.
The problem could be any one of dozens (or even hundreds). Your best bet is to get your car to either a dealership or to an independent mechanic so that the error codes can be read. Said codes will be the starting point that MUST be explored before you (or your mechanic) can properly diagnose the problem.
As far as damage is concerned, I wouldn't worry too much about it, just get your car in for service ASAP. In the end it will probably be a sensor or some such that needs to be replaced.
The code reader, read it to be crankshaft position sensor, since the car was working fine, and i assumed that a failed sensor should not cause any major problem so i will have it fixed as soon as i get a chance.. But i have started to see the startup problems, where the car would not start easily, i need to press on to the gas padel for some time and then only im able to change the gear to drive otherwise the rpm needle just dies down. Im not very sure if the sensor and this problem have something to do with each other. In any case i will take it to the auto shop tomorrow.
Hopefully Div2 will chime in here shortly as I'm pretty sure he posted a link some time back to a DIY discussion of that sensor. IIRC, it's a fairly easy job and could well save you some $$$.
Yep, a failed crankshaft position sensor can cause the problems that you described. Fortunately the R&R is a fairly simple and inexpensive procedure; the part itself costs less than $90, and it takes less than an hour to swap it out.
After talking to various auto-shops i quickly decided (not sure why i did that..) that i will have it replaced at the BMW dealership itself, After waiting for 2 hours i got my car back all clean and washed. They charged $175 for labour and $113 for the part. Just by looking at the error code they were initially not sure wether it is an intake or exhaust camshaft postition sensor (Even though it said 'A' - but who knows what 'A' stands for anyways), the parts shop had both of them but they told me there wont be any return on electrical parts if i take both of them and then later on return one of them after showing it to some other mechanic.
Doing some research before going to the mechanic/dealership was definitely worthwhile, otherwise who knows how much it would have costed me to take my car, with startup problems and "Service Engine" lights on, to the authorised mechanic or Dealership.
Thanks to shipo and dev2 for giving me some info. to begin with.
I recently purchased an '88 hardtop 3-series. the timing belt was changed in 2001 but that was only less than 5,000 miles ago. the vehicle has been garaged since 2000 by a collector. the question is, do timing belts erode over time or is the need to change strictly at the 60,000 mile marker.
There are many schools of thought on timing belt replacement.
Some say 60,000 miles and 7 years. Others more fanatical say 30,000 miles and 4 years.
I'm somewhere in the middle, but since your car has been sitting for many years, I would change it immediately. It's cheap insurance against catastrophic engine damage (which will result if the belt breaks).
After you change it, do it again every 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first.
I'd change the belt. 325s WILL break their belts, too. There's not much room for error. And it would be a great opportunity to flush out the old coolant and replace or at least inspect the hoses and drive belts and perhaps replace the water pump while you're at it.
Hello, I would like to find out how i can couple my cell phone (motorola with bluetooth) with my 2001 BMW 325i, I see that it has arrangements to do so (pre-wiring), but im not sure if it needs anything extra also to make it work. Any input would be much appriciated.
Hi, My cars windshield washer liquid seems to leak away overnight and i see windshield washer low light when i start my car. however there always stays some inside the tank which i am able to use.
My question is: could this be only due to cracked washer reservior or there could also be some bad sensor/pump causing it?
I used some after market windshield washer liquid that i bought from local auto shop.. i burnt my hands already by using some local coolant (non-bmw) which damaged my bmw's expansion tank (costed me $230).
Thanks for the reply, i would'nt mind buying a new part, but i could not find it online, do u know of any source where i would be able to get it for the best possible price?
I just bought a 2007 328i. Unfortunately it did not come prewired for satellite radio. I already have a sirius replay that I would like to use in the car if I can do it without making it look tacky. #1. The car is a lease so I can't do anything that could potentially damage it. #2: I live in California and it is illegal to drive with anything mounted to the windshield (they give you a windshield mount with the radio) Has anybody put in an aftermarket portable satellite and if so, where/how did you mount it?
I am thinking about buying a CPO 2004 330i. Are all CPOs 'equal', i.e., if they are the same age and mileage (and options), are they considered to be equally sound mechanically if they are both CPO? Or are there variations that show up in terms of pricing? Any opinions would be appreciated,
I won't say all CPO cars are equal other than that they all carry the same warranty. You don't know how they were serviced and how they were driven. Since the 2004 model is still under the BMW maintenance plan, you can probably assume the required maintenance services have been done by the previous owner. Test drive it and if possible also test drive a new 328i which may give you some idea about the handling since the power differential between the 04 330i CPO and the 07 328i is not that great.
Just wondering if anyone either has the same experience or knows the probable cause of it. My 2002 325xiT with auto transmission has developed relatively loud booming sound between 62 to 67 on highway, particularly when accelerating. It is quite audible. The car drives well and the booming doesn't associate with any engine power deterioration. The wagon's mileage is 36,000, although the issue above occurred at least 6,000 miles ago. Anyone has any idea of the probable cause for the problem. Could it be a transmission issue? Thanks for any idea you can share.
That's a thought. I never connect the booming noise with the tires which are originals with about 28,000 miles, since I do use snow tires for the winter. Time for tire change soon. It is a relief if it is not a transmission issue. Thanks.
I am running into the same problem, prewired but do not know how to make it work. I have a Razr and would love to use the prewired functionality and did not receive much help from the dealership.
I am looking for part #'s for the oil pan protective covers for both a 2001 740i and 2003 330i BMW. Also trying to locate a glove compartment lock for 740i. Has anyone discovered an alternative for cofee cup holder that can be used in place of the defective one's in the 740i that always go bad and cost a fortune to fix?
Also, the 330i has a burning smell once in awhile, but not always and is related to a "small" oil leak off the gasket head cover. There is no drops on ground so it has to be a small leak. What's the best way to go about solving and diagnosing this problem?
Hello, my car had a frontal damage and after a collision repair I am observing that when I drive the car at low speeds (with mostly AC on) it makes a loud fan noise, the one that comes from big trucks. At high speeds also it might be making sound but I don't get to hear it.
The car otherwise runs fine without any issues. And this Noise is not present when the car is idle.
Comments
Try posting in our BMW 3-Series: 2005 and earlier discussion. There are a lot of folks there who can probably give you some advice.
But I have a tip for you ... don't post in all caps. It looks like you are yelling at us, it's hard to read and for that reason a lot of people will just skip it.
Again, welcome - enjoy the Forums!
My question is, how can one find out wether his car is having a Timing chain or a Timing belt..?? Also when should one think about replacing it (after how many miles).
My car's model is : 2001 BMW 325i Preminum package.
Thanks in advance!
(Long live BMW.. )
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Bot some questions on the BMW side of the ledger. I now the car comes with synthetic oil. I also know there are no pre-described oil change intervals....just what the computer designates. Anyone have any experience with the typical oil change intervals via tha computer? Anyone know how those intervals affects long term longevity?
Observations.....
Saw the discussion on the "run flat" tires. After extensive test driving (some of it very spirited on bad roads), I don't feel they detract from the ride, nor the handling of the 3 Series. Longevity may be a different story.
I drove a model with I-Drive. I know this option has been much maligned in the press. But, coming from an Acura TL with Nav, which is generally thought to be one of the best Nav systems out there, I gotta say I prefer the I-Drive. It boots up almost instantaneously (certainly much faster than the Acura). It allows you to view a map, as well as another function (like stereo opreation) simultaneously (one function displayed at a time with the TL). Voice recognition is much better with I-Drive over the TL. And, probably the biggest advantage, you can operate the I-Drive without taking your eyes off the road (TL uses a touch screen....you have to avert your eyes off the road to use it).
I don't know how this I-Drive version compares to earlier versions, but I like it. Wasn't thinking of getting the I-Drive option, but am reconsidering.
The rest of the car is as good or better than all the trade rags say.
The E90 calculates an OCI of @15K. I'm not too impressed with BMW's synthetic so I use Mobil 1 0W-40 and I change it every 7.5K(it's an easy DIY job, and costs less than $50). I also change the "Lifetime" final drive and transmission fluids every 50K. Note that I tend to keep my Bimmers for 130K miles or more. If I was dead certain that I was going to flip the car in 3-5 years I'd just follow the BMW maintenance schedule.
I'm certain BMW doesn't refine it's own synth oil. So, they have to buy it from someone and slap their name on it.
It may be Mobil 1 for all I know.
It's Castrol.
Thanks!
Most all 1992-1995 3ers had gray bumpers and rockers-except M3s of course. Those that have body color rockers and bumpers have either been repainted or fitted with BMW's M-Technic side skirts. Later 3ers were all fitted with those skirts from the factory.
You'll get a loud growling noise on start up. I wouldn't sweat it; the chain will likely last for another 120K miles.
I have seen loose chains break tensioners and actually jam the engine, without themselves breaking.
If it were my car, I'd say I'd start to worry if the noise DID NOT go away substantially after the engine was thoroughly warmed up and in use during the day.
Edmunds' Appraiser
I thought that this could be due to poor quality gas or i must have left the gas tank cap not properly closed, but later on i saw that it was properly closed and i even filled in best quality Shell gas.
Please help me get some idea as to what could be the reason why this is happening, Even with the warning light I had to drive to work today (The light came back after 5-10 minutes of driving). :-) I hope im not doing too much damage to my bimmer.
Thanks!
Sam.
Relax! If the car is running fine it is very unlikely that you will harm it by driving it. Any Autozone will read the fault codes for free.
As far as damage is concerned, I wouldn't worry too much about it, just get your car in for service ASAP. In the end it will probably be a sensor or some such that needs to be replaced.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Doing some research before going to the mechanic/dealership was definitely worthwhile, otherwise who knows how much it would have costed me to take my car, with startup problems and "Service Engine" lights on, to the authorised mechanic or Dealership.
Thanks to shipo and dev2 for giving me some info. to begin with.
There are many schools of thought on timing belt replacement.
Some say 60,000 miles and 7 years. Others more fanatical say 30,000 miles and 4 years.
I'm somewhere in the middle, but since your car has been sitting for many years, I would change it immediately. It's cheap insurance against catastrophic engine damage (which will result if the belt breaks).
After you change it, do it again every 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Thanks,
Sam.
-Sam.
My question is: could this be only due to cracked washer reservior or there could also be some bad sensor/pump causing it?
I used some after market windshield washer liquid that i bought from local auto shop.. i burnt my hands already by using some local coolant (non-bmw) which damaged my bmw's expansion tank (costed me $230).
Any input would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam.
Thanks,
Sam.
But if it's really pricey, you might try something like JB Weld, a two-part epoxy.
Thanks,
Sam.
Oh well, Bavarian Autosport (www.bavauto.com) has reservoirs for both cars. E36 part# 61 66 8 370 834:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CB33&mospid=47498&btnr=61_0070&hg=- 61&fg=45&hl=12
The E46 part# 61 66 7 007 970:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=ET37&mospid=47720&btnr=61_1084&hg=- 61&fg=45&hl=5
See which one you need and enter the part number in Bav Auto's search window (at the upper left part of the screen).
Thanks once again to you guys!
Sam.
#1. The car is a lease so I can't do anything that could potentially damage it.
#2: I live in California and it is illegal to drive with anything mounted to the windshield (they give you a windshield mount with the radio)
Has anybody put in an aftermarket portable satellite and if so, where/how did you mount it?
Does anyone know if Bluetooth was standard (or part of Premium pkg) on the 2004 BMW 330i?
Thanks.
I am thinking about buying a CPO 2004 330i. Are all CPOs 'equal', i.e., if they are the same age and mileage (and options), are they considered to be equally sound mechanically if they are both CPO? Or are there variations that show up in terms of pricing? Any opinions would be appreciated,
Thanks.
My 2002 325xiT with auto transmission has developed relatively loud booming sound between 62 to 67 on highway, particularly when accelerating. It is quite audible. The car drives well and the booming doesn't associate with any engine power deterioration. The wagon's mileage is 36,000, although the issue above occurred at least 6,000 miles ago.
Anyone has any idea of the probable cause for the problem. Could it be a transmission issue? Thanks for any idea you can share.
Tire noise is fairly common as the tires wear, and some tire brands & types are much worse than others in this regard.
I am running into the same problem, prewired but do not know how to make it work. I have a Razr and would love to use the prewired functionality and did not receive much help from the dealership.
Have you had any luck?
Regards,
Harish
Also, the 330i has a burning smell once in awhile, but not always and is related to a "small" oil leak off the gasket head cover. There is no drops on ground so it has to be a small leak. What's the best way to go about solving and diagnosing this problem?
The car otherwise runs fine without any issues. And this Noise is not present when the car is idle.
Please help me resolve this issue.
Thanks,
Sam.