You got a good deal. My OTD price was $21,515.99 and that was without haggling.
The dealership I was referring too is in Killeen,Tx. They compete very well with the mega dealers from Dallas/Ft Worth and San Antonio. Austin dealer do not deal much.....they don't have too,so I can't blame them. A lot of their customers are from Austin and they give great customer service. Considering your Accord only needs to see the dealer every 5,000 miles or so for an oil change,I don't get caught up in the "Great dealer service" spill. An oil change only takes 30 minutes or so, I could care less if the service manager is all smiles behind the counter,or everyone that works at the dealership is one happy "family".
To the person concerned about waiting for the next gen of Accord next year. My advice is too lease this year Accord with all the annoying bugs from 03 fix (ie road noise). Honda will usually contact in the 30 month or 2 1/2 years from now and do a "pull ahead" or let you lease another Honda as long as it is financed through them. That gives Honda 1 1/2 years to get the bugs out of the new gen Accord.
I have not done that before and I have gotten cars from WI, CT, GA, and KY (twice). I would certainly ask about it before you travel to get a car - and I think it would depend on the distance and mode of travel and if someone could vouch for them or not. I have purchased two in KY and sent a bunch of folk there and not one as complained to me about anything - they were all very pleased. I have referred some folks to GA in the past with no complaints, but not as many or as recent as to KY.
It would not hurt to voice this concern to the salesperson - that you have heard stories of folks travelling to get a deal and then getting hit with add-ons to trap the buyer into paying too much. Tricks like leaving the destination charge off the quote, or the dealer fee, or something else. The dealer should offer something to you, some form of offer or something with the total numbers - for sure if you are planning on flying into some place. But these folks are internet savvy - they know treating folks wrong would spread like wildfire on the 'net and they would have little future chances to trick someone - and if they treat you well you will be more than willing to refer others to them and "advertise" how good things went.
The current lease deals are "decent" - aronud 5 something percent effective interest rate. Last year they were doing deals closer to 1-2%. Still, there is nothing wrong with doing a lease now to wait for the next gen car later. The buyout price is pre-negotiated as well - so if and lease end the market value of the 3 year old Accord is MORE than the buyout, then sell it (via a dealer) and make some money. Heck, you may be able to sell it TO a dealer and make a little money.
Honda has one of the best spreads when comparing first year bugs with last year of design bugs (they just don't have a lot), but there is a difference. The '03 Accord just is not as reliable then, now, or in the future as the 04, 05, 06, and 07 models will be. It is not a lot and not all will have problems but there is a larger potential for problems.
If someone is thinking of waiting until '08 then they don't need a car now, so wait. Once we are closer to the 08 release and Honda finds they have weeks worth of 07 Accords on the lots and plant parking then dealer money will kick in and lease rates will drop - more than likely. So you can get the same car then for a good deal less than you could get it for today. Heck, Honda could put dealer money on the 07 cars at any time if sales a slow enough.
about the maintenance on the accord. this is my first car. what should i expect with regard to maintenance. i want to know at what levels of mileage should we bring it in to the dealer or can we do the regular oil changes ourselves without voiding the warranty
Thanks Dwyne...........Thats why I am waiting till the end of Oct before making the deal, to see if Honda sweetens the pot. I am starting to see alot of Accord commercials on TV,so you know what that means........sells must be a little slow.
Pictel,you picked the right company and car to be your first one. The car has an oil change light that will tell you when to change the oil. But most mechanics suggest you change every 5k miles not 3k. Thus saving some money. You should be able to change your own oil,but why? Pay the dealer to do it. It is the same amount as the stand alone oil places and if they screw up, they will fix it as a warranty item(one time the dealer forgot to put the oil plug back on and I had oil all over my engine, the dealer steamed clean it for free, and offered me a couple of free oil changes).
I have an 03 Accord with 4 months left on a 48 month lease. I am about 12.5K over the mileage, and will definately be getting a new car as soon as I can. Another poster on this side (in the lease forum) noted that Honda would take their car back w/o penalty if they lease a new car and pay the add'l mileage fees. Has anyone else heard of that? I called AHFC and I was told that was not the case- though I know they have given me incorrect info before. I currently have a 4cyl. and am desperate to get a V6. I can afford to purchase or lease, but I do not want to spend any unnecessary money if I don't have to. Any pointers?
How much per mile is your mileage penalty? Once you saw you were going over you should have stuck that much per mile aside for every mile you go over - then you would be prepared for the "hit" you are going to take when you try to turn it in.
Normal for AHFC leases on an I4 Accord would be $0.15 per mile, so 12,500 over = $1,875, which is quite a hit. If you turn the car in you will have to pay this, or roll it into the new car payment or lease.
What I would do is check here on Edmunds, KBB, etc for what your Accord is worth in the shape it is in with the miles on it. Then look at the lease end purchase price (printed on the contract or call AHFC back to get the end of lease purchase price). If the car is worth more retail or trade than your purchase price + $1,875 penalty then you would be better off selling the car and not turning it in. Keep in mind that you will also owe for any large dings, dents, scratches, tears, and bald tires if you turn it in. In most states you will have to sell your off-lease car to/through a car dealer to avoid paying tax on it twice.
Future pointers would be not to sign a 4 year lease, and not to sign one that does not have enough miles on it. It is almost always cheaper to pay for the miles up front than to pay them at the end - so get a 15k or more mile lease if you lease again.
The current lease deal on an 07 SE V6 is about $2k out of pocket and $249 per month. A lot of the $2k can be wiped out by negotiating the price of the car down, but then you will have to pay more for a 15k or more per year lease.
That "pull ahead" or "pull through" or whatever someone called it just another salesperson's trick to sell you a new car. I don't think any company (as a company and finance company) forgives you any lease payments to get you into a new car. What a dealer will do is (secretly) roll the difference between the car's worth and the buyout price into the new lease deal. So if you walk in with no old lease car you get a BETTER price than someone get a "Deal" because they are a current customer.
A three year lease is usually the most you should lease. The difference between a 12k lease vs 15k is about $20 or less a month.
As regards the lease pull ahead,most of the makes do it. VW,GM,Toyota and yes Honda. Think about it, they do not want you LEAVING after 36 months,besides Honda isn't being nice. Honda wants your soon to be lease paid car so it can resell it.
Honda would take their car back w/o penalty if they lease a new car and pay the add'l mileage fees.
Huh? Of course that's all you pay. What kind of penalty would you have to pay on top of the miles? The extra mileage charge IS the penalty. So you turn it back in at the end of the lease, pay them additional miles, and then go buy or lease whatever you want from whereever you want.
Unless you mean turning it in before the lease is up. In which case, you still wouldn't pay a "penalty" other than the extra mileage. You just pay the remaining payments on top of the mileage, and probably some kind of disposal fee (which you pay no matter when you end the lease).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
GM and Chrysler have done this in the past, but basically their cars are not very good and they have to have lots of incentives to sell them (or lease them). I don't know that I have ever heard of a AHFC sponsored program like this and I would doubt that Toyota would offer it either. Show me some documentation of where this exists and is a company-wide policy or offer for a AHFC lease.
A smart car salesperson will mark their calendar with your lease expiration date so they can contact you to make you an offer before or when the old lease expires. But there is no "forgive the payments" build into the lease - someone, you are the dealer will be paying unless it is a company sponsored deal. Honda and Toyota cars DO retain good resale value, so it is possible that before lease end you have positive equity in the car (current buyout price >= car value) and if so you could sell the car yourself or trade it and roll the positive equity into the new deal. If the buy out of the lease = current value then any dealer could offer you a "pull ahead" lease on their own and without you paying "extra".
Another scam they do is sign someone for a long lease then promise them that at some point (maybe half way in) they can turn the car in and walk away if they don't like it. Again, just a trick and not something they would put in writing for a factory in-house lease deal. They may HOPE they could do it at that point if your car is worth >= the buy out price or if they can roll the negative equity into the new deal, but the odds of just being able to just drop the car off and walk away are really slim.
Honda will be getting your off lease car without having to give you any discounts or favors to get it - and lease end you have to either buy it or turn it in. Honda has a lot less trouble selling cars than most makes and fully expects after a trouble free lease in a nice Honda you will be ready for another Honda lease.
If you check the AHFC web pages you will see things like:
THE LEADERSHIP LEASING LOYALTY PROGRAM If you're currently leasing a Honda or Acura with us, we'd like to keep you in the family. That's why we offer special lease incentives if you decide to lease another Honda or Acura at the end of your lease term.
To reward you for your loyalty, we'll waive the security deposit on your new lease. For more information, check with your dealer.
Still wondering what to do at the end of your lease? Read about Lease-End Options in the Looking Ahead section of this web site.
where they will waive the security deposit for returning customers.
And this info:
Option 1: Return your vehicle and lease a new one. This option is convenient, easy, and best of all, you get to drive off in a brand new Honda or Acura! Your Acura or Honda automobile dealer will be happy to show you the latest models and discuss your options.
You will need to schedule a free vehicle inspection during the last two months of your lease. Through our Leadership Leasing Loyalty program, we may be able to waive the security deposit when you lease another vehicle through us. You will be responsible for any outstanding payments, excess wear and use, excessive mileage, and any other end of term obligations specified in your lease agreement. Visit the Planning section of this web site to learn more about our lease programs
So you can turn it in early, then still have to pay for it.
I have spoken to two Toyota and at least four different Honda dealers about pull aheads in their leases. Is it written anywhere? No. Many lease customers could probably tell you how it works.
The way it was explained to me by the internet salesperson and finance manager is this. You lease a SE,near the end of your lease, say the 30 or 31 month,Honda will send a letter inviting the customer to "move up" to say an EX, or any other vehicle.
This is how it was explained to me by the dealership.
They can invite you all they want, but I would bet they (or the dealer) hide the missing month's payments in the new deal. I noticed no one in the leasing forum answered your post about this - maybe no one has seen this letter? I have a couple of AHFC leases right now, but it will be a bit before I get to lease end - we will see if they make such an offer at that time. Someone said they called in an AHFC denied they had such a plan, so I would still wonder about it.
BTW, the residuals on both my AHFC leases are pretty low so I would think that by the end of the lease or close to it the cars will likely be worth more than the buyout. Maybe that determines who gets an offer? I will likely buy both off the end of these or pehaps on one of them sell it through a dealer and make a little money on it.
Dennis, thanks for your information. I have sent email to the dealer you mentioned in GA. As you said, I also got the quote of $18993+$477 dealer fee for 2007 SE.
I am planning to drive from Alabama to Atlanta for the car. As I know, I should pay Tax and registration fee here. I have asked the local car tag and title office about the price but they refuse to answer it without the paperwork of the car. All they can tell is that the state tax is 2% and title is $18.
Question: As I learn from others, the registration fee normally is about $100-200, is it coorect? Are there any additional fees I should pay because I buy a new car form other state?
The total price as my understanding is as follows:
To the dealer: $18993(price with destination)+$474(dealer fee)+$3(GA Lemon Law) =$19470
To tag/title office (Jefferson County Revenue Department) state tax(2%): $380 registration fee (&title&tag): about $200
I did some more looking around and found a note from a woman who DID get such a letter about a year ago. I think she only got it in time to try to save a single payment or maybe two. It may be one of those things where they go by the current value of your car and the lease end price - and how slow new sales are. I don't think anyone should go into a lease COUNTING on getting such a letter at the end - I don't think they send one to every customer. Maybe only to folks with super-prime credit or with weak credit (they get to charge them a lot more) or as I surmised maybe it just depends on the exact model you have.
It would sure seem a YMMV thing, so don't assume it will work for you. Of course, you do have to lease another car from Honda for any of that to work - and who knows when you "present the letter to the dealer" they are supposed to not give you the buy rate and jack it up to make more coin?
They are selling them that cheap at the GA dealer - that is what they are quoting and the price shown is for the car+dest+dealer fees. The dealer in KY will do either Accord SE for straight invoice including the dealer fees - so an SE from them would be invoice + your tags + your taxes. I don't think that either dealer cared if you pay cash, finance, or lease it at those prices either.
You local and state taxes should be the same as what you would pay if you got the car (for a full price) at a AL dealership. Well, the taxes would be more since the price is more
AFAIK most states charge sales tax on "dealer fees" so your tax may be a little more than that.
If you are planning on writing a check for the registration stuff then you can wait until you get back to AL to get the exact amount. If you are wanting to finance the car and finance the taxes and tags then it gets a little more complex. "In theory" you could pay the dealer for the taxes and tags and then they would mail you a limited power of attorney, the MSO, and a check back to the state/county for the taxes. You take all that down and title the car w/lien to the finance bank.
Some states (FL) charge an extra fee for a car brought in from out of state, but I would doubt AL does that.
Seems like someone more helpful at one of the local offices to tell the scoop.
If you look a the AL FAQ at this link it has some more info. It looks like it may vary by country if you look at this link for Limestone county they show 2% AL and 1% county tax. Google up and see if your county has any online info.
Let us know how you make out, I have not had someone buy from GA in a while - but those that did previously were happy.
My best friends mom is just about to end a 3 year lease on a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. It is in cherry condition, loaded, with a buyout of $13,300. That seems like a great deal (edmunds lists them at $15k or so. I Don't know how leases work. Is there a way for me to purchase for that price, or does she have to purchase, then me buy from her. Will we be taxed twice, then?
In general, is the price for a buyout usually a good deal (better than you could find on the open market?) I know the history of this car, and that does count for something.
In most states the off lease car can only go to a car dealer or to the lessee (your friend's mom). In most states if she purchased it off lease sales tax would be due, and then again when you purchased it from her. There are some states that are different, but this is the case most places.
What you can do is arrange to buy the car through a dealer. They, in effect, buy the car from the lease bank and sell it to you. If you can't find someone local to do it, I can recommend someone "on the 'net" that should be able to handle this for you - for a modest fee (a few hundred).
The residual (the future buy out price) is just a guess by the lease bank at what the car will be worth in xx months and xx,xxx miles. Most independent lease banks will use the ALG residual but captive lease banks (like Chrysler credit) can use any number they want to. The ALG number is normally fairly close to being the wholesale or even private party value of the car. I put in a 2003 laredo in the edmunds price guide, loaded it up, put 48k miles on it, and it came up with $12,436 trade and $14,159 private party. So the ALG number is right in the middle, about where you would expect.
Keep in mind, the numbers I did were for a 4yr old car with 48k in clean condition - about what they expect to get back. If this sample is in much better than normal shape and has been driven fewer miles, it is worth more - but the bank is stuff with the set price.
Most of the time they tend to hit on the money, but sometimes they miss. Anything that guzzles gas will tend to have a higher than real world residual if the price was set in the < $2 a gallon days. Hard to get and real popular cars will often be worth a lot less than residual and end of lease - it just happens.
But I am thinking a lot/most will never get a letter. Typical for a dealer to say anything to get you to sign and not worry about what happens down the road.
As I said, I would not plan on getting a letter nor would I use it as a factor in making a lease decision.
Another thought, if Honda hits a huge home run with the next Accord the current models will really tank in price. No way would the last of the "old" design be worth just a little less then the "new" Accord - so they may not hold value as well. Or, folks may not like the new design and the old ones hold up really well. Of course, it IS an Accord which means it is always going to be worth a nice sum as a used car - no matter what
The last time I checked the numbers, the current lease specials are around 5% effect interest - and you have to pay the $500 or so acquisition fee. Prime customers could get 6.39% or so financing, so the current lease deal is not that hot if you factor in the rate and the fee. When AHFC has a real deal, the rate can be < 2 or even less than 1%. What you could look at is just financing at a low rate, and run an amortization on the payoff 3 years from now and see what is still owed on the car and compare that to the lease buyout. You may find you would owe less after 3 years than the buyout price - maybe a good deal less, so you could easily cover the amount you owe with a trade in - and get the tax break on the new car.
Leasing can be a good hedge against the future value, the bank takes the chance - not you. If the car is worth less than residual, you turn it in and they are stuck with it. If it is worth more, then you can buy it at the lower price (or sell it through a dealer to someone else). I lease a C5 'vette several years ago and got a decent lease deal on a decent discount from MSRP. The residual looked fair - then post 9/11 GM started doing 0.0% for 60 months, employee pricing, etc and the bottom dropped out of the use C5 market. The auction value of mine was a LOT less than the residual. The lease bank extened my lease for free and eventually discounted the buy out so I could sell the car to someone - anything to keep me from turning it in. I ended up making a little money off of it, but the lease bank really got burned on that deal.
Dennis,I am guessing there are many factors if you do get the letter 1.paying ontime 2.The condition and mileage on car, Honda will know this every time you take it to the dealer (and you really should take to the dealer while under warranty). 3.Overall credit history 4. market conditions on new and used Accords Factors such as these and many others explains why you are correct in that many do not receive this letter.
Back to the lease deal.......The salesperson told me at one time Honda was offering $199 on their Accords in the 06 model year.....is that correct? What were the payments when Honda had super low Money Factors?
They were doing the $199 a month lease for 05 cars I know - since I leased one for my wife .
It was 0.00113 (2.7%) and 54% residual for a 2005 LX I4 AT Accord. The "advertised deal" was like the current ones - about $2k out of pocket at signing to get the $199 payment, but like now you would get a lot of that in dealer discount. They had up to $750 in dealer money at that time too. Remember the residual is percentage of full MSRP (not your price) so that is set - the lower you negotiate the price of the car the less you pay each month.
If you look at the Hennessy web page specials they show the I4 SE and V6 SE leases for $219/mo ($1499 due at signing) and $228/mo ($1899 due at signing) rather than the $239/$249 rates on the Honda web page - this is based on the same residuals and rates AND the fact they are selling the cars for invoice or less. Any other dealer that would sell at the same price could offer the same lease.
As far as other deals go, I have seen rates as low as 0.00079 (1.9%) on certain Accord 06 models (V-6 LX or EX-L Navi V-6) earlier in the year. I SEEMS like the best money factors are at the start of the calendar year on through time for the new models to come out. The residuals may be less at that time (by a bit) but the rates seem to dip down and may stay down for a few months in Feb, March, April, and May.
BTW, one of my local stations ran an ad for an Accord LX I4 AT lease for $239 a month the other night. Strange, since the Honda web page shows they have extended the I4 SE AT lease deal until 10/31 - also for $239.
These are good, not great deals, for the SE cars - it looks like the I4 SE lease deal is 61% residual but about 5% money factor. I think all the Accord sedans have about the same MF so it is a pick 'em - the special deal may be a little less MF and 1% higher residual than the other cars.
They may decide to run LX lease deals again or EX lease deals. They will lease you ANY Accord at any time, but getting the one that is on special with a really cheap rate can save you some money - if that is the car you want.
Keep in mind also that everyone gets the same residual, but the rate varies with credit score (AHFC uses a tier system) so "for well qualified lessees. Not all lessees will qualify". In addition, the dealer can jack up the rate from the buy rate to something higher. Not many Honda dealers DO this, almost every BMW and other high-end car dealer DOES.
Thanks for the info Dennis......I will wait till Oct. 31 and see what shakes out. Maybe wait till beginning of next year since they say your trade is worth more in the spring time.
The closer you are to new model release the higher the residual on the lease and the more your trade would be worth. The farther you get away from the new introductions the smaller the residual and the less your trade may be worth.
I would not expect much better rates next month (November, actually) but you never know. Honda looks in their computer and sees they have 124 days worth of 06 LX I4 AT Accord sedans on the lots you can bet they will have an LX lease special and maybe even dealer money to move them. In the past, this type of thing usually did not happen so early in the model year - as they sold slower than they made them all model year the supply builds up until it gets to "some point" and then we have better deals.
If you need/want a new car now (say you are driving an old beater) then I would just go ahead and get one and enjoy it. If you have nice car to drive, then you could likely save some money if you wait - but it may be several months.
Edmunds shows $750 in dealer money for left over 06 Accords, so that is an option if you can find one. Would not lease as well as the 07 (lower residual and likely higher rate) but for a purchase it should save some money. The problem is the dealers stuck with 06 cars are ones that could not/would not deal before now to get rid of them - so what are they odds they will deal now?
Thanks for the info,I just trying to wait to the right time of the year to get the most for my trade also (not a lease, a 04 Pontiac Grand Prix). I am told used vehichles varies by the time of the year at the auctions. Right now there are a flood of used cars do to the end of the year sales depressing values for trade ins.
Another reason to wait till Oct. or later.
By the way I called Hennessey Honda in Atlanta.....Great people and a fine example of a Honda dealership. Shame I do not live near Atlanta.
Holmes Honda over in Shreveport (about 3 hours away) USED to have some killer prices - as cheap as you could find anywhere. I would contact their "internet department" for a quote and see what they offer. About a 1 1/2 years back when Accord shopping they were hard to beat - but a LONG way from me - not a bad drive for you.
So, remember I posted that I was offered $22,500 OTD (I have it in writing on an email from the dealer). Although the car won't be in until mid November, I went to the dealership to fill out the paperwork (paying cash, but just leaving a refundable deposit), so when the car came in all I would have to do was pick up my nice new car.
All of a sudden the salesman tells me that this price doesnt include license.. and that would add another $400.00. :mad: Again, is it because I am a woman? that he thinks I am so stupid? When did an OTD price not include license??? Then when I told him our deal was OTD, he denied it, got up abruptly and left.
So that leaves only one more Honda Dealer in the immediate area. Is there any other dealership someone can recommend, I am willing to go to Ca, Utah, or Arizona.
Well, its pathetic! And I am sorry, but I think its worst when they are dealing with women. And I don't usually feel that way with people I deal with. Since when didnt OTD include the license fee???
Seriously.. that was ridiculous! Thats why I am willing to travel to get a car elsewhere...
In the last two months, I come to this forum every single day and gather all kinds of great information about the Accord. Please allow me to extend my appreciation to everybody on this board, espcially to Dennis. You are truely a fine example of a dedicated member.
Now to the details of the deal. It is a silver SE with grey interior. Selling price of the car is $19.9k+TTL and a $55 doc. fee. I live in South Jersey and I got it from Martin Main Line Honda in Ardmore, right outside of Philadelphia. It is a small dealership but I can recommend this place to everyone. I got the price through the phone before I walked in but I was still kind of nervous. This was the first time buying a new car and I had heard enough bad stories about the salesmen and knew about their notorious scams/tricks. However, it turned out that my worry was not necessary at all. I was surprised that I did enjoy my time with the sales person who served me. He was very polite, patient, and knowledgable about the car (PM me if you want his name). It was a smooth transaction. I requested quotes from other dealers in the area and I will suggest people to stay away from Burns Honda in Marlton, NJ. Their online quotes are always ridiculous high. I walked in once because it is close to me. It was a mistake and a totally waste of time. Don't shop there unless you are really good at haggling but still prepare to spend a lot time in it.
Now to the car, drove 20 miles to get home and following is my first impression.
Pros: smooth transmission, precise handling and fine cornering with minimum body roll.
Cons: road noise, not as quiet as Camry and Sonata, may be the tires; ride can be bumpy; with the A/C turned on and the car at a stopped position, noticeable increased of vibration and noise from under the hood; one thing I dislike most actually is the shifting stick. The plastic of the stick looks cheap.
Ops, looks like I listed more cons than pros. However, most of the cons are known issues. I knew them and I still got the car and I look forward to spending a lot good time with it in the next seven, eight years.
Finally, best luck to all of you and your cars! Cheers!
Check out Staten Island Honda , Open Road , and DCH Honda . Do your home work check fighting dot com . Buy the book it help me save alot on my Honda Pilot. Understand that the dealers have three ways to caught you the price of the car , the trade in and the finance . Whatever you do dont buy unitl the end of the month . Know exactly what the Dealer is getting from the manufacturer in terms of give backs.
I agree with user jik, I think that dealers who try to do this stuff would do it with anyone.
That said, my wife always reports that she NEVER gets treated the same way we did when we went to a dealer as a couple. It is not right or fair, but that is how it seems to be - consequently she quit car shopping on her own or with friends. When my daughter is looking for a new car, she does not bother to go look alone either - I go with her.
Take heart in the fact that your dealer would have tried this trick on a man. I would also have to admit that at a lot of dealerships you on your own would not be treated with the same respect and courtesy as a man would be - or if you took a man with you. I don't know why that is, but it is not right.
They should not judge a book by its covers. I for example, don't spend a lot on clothes - never have, never will - and I work in a blue jeans environment. So when I go car shopping I may look like a bum - that does not make me one. I think some dealers or salespeople see a woman as someone that they can take advantage of - so they try. If you keep shooting them down with they try this stuff, maybe they will learn to treat everyone fairly?
Someone mentioned one time about a huge CA Honda dealership - may be the largest (volume) in the US? I searched and found it Norm Reeves Honda Superstore in Cerrits, CA. They claim to be the largest volume Honda dealer in the US. Looks like they also sell Hondas in Huntington Beach and West Covina. How far is that from you?
I am also looking for a 2007 EX-L I4 or V6 Accord w/o Navi. Anyone knows of a good price recently bought in the Chicago area. Any recommended dealers. If there are no incentives on 2007 Accord, should I just get a 2006 since I don't plan to sell it for another 5-6 yrs at least.
I totally agree with so much you said! I dont know how far Cerrits, Ca. is, but I appreciate you mentioning them to me.
Believe it or not, I actually bought a car today! Went to the 3rd and last dealership in my area; Honda West. Of course, after sending emails to dealers in Arizona, Ca, and Utah...
I walked in,avoiding all outside salesmen. I asked to speak to the fleet manager. If I can post his name, I would like to, as he was great to deal with. I took an extreme direct approach: I am ready to buy today. I quoted the invoice price of the car and asked what he could do..Of course I wasnt about to agree on the price he gave me,and he asked what I wanted to pay.. He was also the first salesman to mention that OTD prices here in Nevada did NOT include license, which adds about $400.00 to the bottom line. When I worked with the salesman that I walked out on yesterday,and we discussed price, I said I wanted the price including T,TL,L. He NEVER said the OTD price he gave me excluded the license. Just tell me the truth up front and then I will make my decisions. After just a drop of haggling, we agreed upon the price. The car still has the factory wrappings on it, and only 3 miles . I am having them tint the windows..and will pick up the car on Monday.
My quote from Findlay Honday, (that I walked out on yesterday)was $22,500, OTD (includes tint, no license). Todays price was $22,225.00 (tint, no license). So Findlay actually did me a favor, I got a better price!
You may include the dealership name, city and state in your post. Please do not post names of salespeople, telephone numbers, email addresses, or other contact information.
Grand Honda's print ad here on their web page show the 07 EX-L V6 w/o NAV for $24,250 + TTL and a $53 doc fee. Invoice with destination is $25,278 so that is a smoking hot price. The ad says "no limit, dealers welcome".
I don't live near Chicago but we used to track the Grand Honda ads in an S2000 forum - at the time they were one of the few dealers to advertise and sell them at a discount. At times it may be hard (but not impossible) to get out the door with the advertised price - but for this car with "no limits" (not just one stock number that sold last week) it would be worth your time to stop by with check book in hand.
FYI: Grand's ad shows the 2007 SE V6 AT for $20,895, invoice on this car is $21,638.
Glad you got what you wanted - and at a better price too!
Before there was internet sales, I used to walk in and avoid the sales folks until I got a glance at the "salesman of the month board". Found someone who won month after month and then I would ask for them. I usually had a better experience that getting whoever was "up" when I pulled in. The "fleet manager" or "internet manager" can be a big help too. The good ones know you are after the best price and need to give you that right off or you are done with them. When car shopping for my daughter's new car recently you would be amazed and how many "internet managers" never returned my e-mails and one even had a full mail box so my e-mail was reject over and over for days.
Very smart of you! I dont know why I didnt think of doing that right off the bat, but it's been a few years since I bought a car, so chaulk it up to being rusty! lol
The gentleman I worked with a Honda West, was actually one of the top producers (and it seems at 6 yrs, longest employees as well).. so your theory definitely pans out!
Thanks for all your imput Dennis! I really appreciate it!
Sounds like a great deal, but don't buy something you dislike just because it's on sale. If you didn't need NAVI, but find that you can live with it with no problem (or find it neat, but not necessity) I'd get the car. At the same price now you could probably get an EX-V6 non Navi 2007 model. Just a thought.
I bought a 06 EX V4 Accord for 22000 out the door (yes I mean including tax, which is 7% here.) Was this a good deal? I bought it 2 months ago. Thanks.
If you want the Navi, get the 2006. I you don't want the Navi, the the newer 2007. You already said you didn't want Navi, in that case, it is a waste of money to be the 2006 model.
I have been recently looking to purchase a 2006/2007 Accord EX-L V6. I have received quite a few quotes, but realized that dealers in the NJ area are not willing to do too much with the price, especially after seeing posts about prices paid in other states. I recently saw a 2006 Accord EX-L V6 Demo w/about 3,000 miles and some minor options(deck spoiler & fog lights) for approx $24,500. Having done some homework, I think this price is quite steep. Anyone have a good ballpark range on how much this vehicle should cost ? looking for a good inital offer price, but not too sure how much car is worth with 3,000 miles. Thanks in advance
Considering you could buy a 2006 EX-V6 for $24,000 or so BRAND NEW when dealers still had them on the lots, I'd say you shouldn't pay over $22,000 (maybe less, I'm not an expert). I do watch the forums enough to know that $24,500 would be a reasonable, even slightly high price on a brand new 06 model two months ago, so maybe offer $21,500? Just a thought...
I would take the Nav equipped car at that price. Nav cars are not produced in big numbers and are not usually discounted as much as the more common non-NAV cars. The GA dealer that has been quoting hot prices on Accords will give you a not-so-hot number if you ask about a Nav Accord.
I love Nav systems and getting a new car so cheap under invoice I would be sold. If that is not enough, check out the used car values on Edmunds (appraise a car).
Put in a 2003 EX-L v-6 w/Nav and 36k miles - $18,608 $20,324 $21,921 (trade, private party, retail).
Put in a 2004 EX-L v-6 NO Nav and 36k miles - $18,743 $20,087 $21,246.
So in 36k miles or 3 years from now the two cars will be worth almost the exact same amount - yet one has NAV. So it cost you less now and retains the same value as the non-Nav car. So I would get it and enjoy the voice controlled Nav system all the while you own the car.
Comments
The dealership I was referring too is in Killeen,Tx. They compete very well with the mega dealers from Dallas/Ft Worth and San Antonio. Austin dealer do not deal much.....they don't have too,so I can't blame them. A lot of their customers are from Austin and they give great customer service. Considering your Accord only needs to see the dealer every 5,000 miles or so for an oil change,I don't get caught up in the "Great dealer service" spill. An oil change only takes 30 minutes or so, I could care less if the service manager is all smiles behind the counter,or everyone that works at the dealership is one happy "family".
To the person concerned about waiting for the next gen of Accord next year. My advice is too lease this year Accord with all the annoying bugs from 03 fix (ie road noise). Honda will usually contact in the 30 month or 2 1/2 years from now and do a "pull ahead" or let you lease another Honda as long as it is financed through them. That gives Honda 1 1/2 years to get the bugs out of the new gen Accord.
It would not hurt to voice this concern to the salesperson - that you have heard stories of folks travelling to get a deal and then getting hit with add-ons to trap the buyer into paying too much. Tricks like leaving the destination charge off the quote, or the dealer fee, or something else.
The dealer should offer something to you, some form of offer or something with the total numbers - for sure if you are planning on flying into some place. But these folks are internet savvy - they know treating folks wrong would spread like wildfire on the 'net and they would have little future chances to trick someone - and if they treat you well you will be more than willing to refer others to them and "advertise" how good things went.
Dennis
Honda has one of the best spreads when comparing first year bugs with last year of design bugs (they just don't have a lot), but there is a difference. The '03 Accord just is not as reliable then, now, or in the future as the 04, 05, 06, and 07 models will be. It is not a lot and not all will have problems but there is a larger potential for problems.
If someone is thinking of waiting until '08 then they don't need a car now, so wait. Once we are closer to the 08 release and Honda finds they have weeks worth of 07 Accords on the lots and plant parking then dealer money will kick in and lease rates will drop - more than likely. So you can get the same car then for a good deal less than you could get it for today. Heck, Honda could put dealer money on the 07 cars at any time if sales a slow enough.
Dennis
about the maintenance on the accord. this is my first car. what should i expect with regard to maintenance. i want to know at what levels of mileage should we bring it in to the dealer or can we do the regular oil changes ourselves without voiding the warranty
Pictel,you picked the right company and car to be your first one. The car has an oil change light that will tell you when to change the oil. But most mechanics suggest you change every 5k miles not 3k. Thus saving some money. You should be able to change your own oil,but why? Pay the dealer to do it. It is the same amount as the stand alone oil places and if they screw up, they will fix it as a warranty item(one time the dealer forgot to put the oil plug back on and I had oil all over my engine, the dealer steamed clean it for free, and offered me a couple of free oil changes).
Thanks for all the helpful info here...
I have an 03 Accord with 4 months left on a 48 month lease. I am about 12.5K over the mileage, and will definately be getting a new car as soon as I can. Another poster on this side (in the lease forum) noted that Honda would take their car back w/o penalty if they lease a new car and pay the add'l mileage fees. Has anyone else heard of that? I called AHFC and I was told that was not the case- though I know they have given me incorrect info before. I currently have a 4cyl. and am desperate to get a V6. I can afford to purchase or lease, but I do not want to spend any unnecessary money if I don't have to. Any pointers?
Thanks
Normal for AHFC leases on an I4 Accord would be $0.15 per mile, so 12,500 over = $1,875, which is quite a hit. If you turn the car in you will have to pay this, or roll it into the new car payment or lease.
What I would do is check here on Edmunds, KBB, etc for what your Accord is worth in the shape it is in with the miles on it. Then look at the lease end purchase price (printed on the contract or call AHFC back to get the end of lease purchase price). If the car is worth more retail or trade than your purchase price + $1,875 penalty then you would be better off selling the car and not turning it in. Keep in mind that you will also owe for any large dings, dents, scratches, tears, and bald tires if you turn it in. In most states you will have to sell your off-lease car to/through a car dealer to avoid paying tax on it twice.
Future pointers would be not to sign a 4 year lease, and not to sign one that does not have enough miles on it. It is almost always cheaper to pay for the miles up front than to pay them at the end - so get a 15k or more mile lease if you lease again.
The current lease deal on an 07 SE V6 is about $2k out of pocket and $249 per month. A lot of the $2k can be wiped out by negotiating the price of the car down, but then you will have to pay more for a 15k or more per year lease.
That "pull ahead" or "pull through" or whatever someone called it just another salesperson's trick to sell you a new car. I don't think any company (as a company and finance company) forgives you any lease payments to get you into a new car. What a dealer will do is (secretly) roll the difference between the car's worth and the buyout price into the new lease deal. So if you walk in with no old lease car you get a BETTER price than someone get a "Deal" because they are a current customer.
Dennis
As regards the lease pull ahead,most of the makes do it. VW,GM,Toyota and yes Honda. Think about it, they do not want you LEAVING after 36 months,besides Honda isn't being nice. Honda wants your soon to be lease paid car so it can resell it.
Huh? Of course that's all you pay. What kind of penalty would you have to pay on top of the miles? The extra mileage charge IS the penalty. So you turn it back in at the end of the lease, pay them additional miles, and then go buy or lease whatever you want from whereever you want.
Unless you mean turning it in before the lease is up. In which case, you still wouldn't pay a "penalty" other than the extra mileage. You just pay the remaining payments on top of the mileage, and probably some kind of disposal fee (which you pay no matter when you end the lease).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
A smart car salesperson will mark their calendar with your lease expiration date so they can contact you to make you an offer before or when the old lease expires. But there is no "forgive the payments" build into the lease - someone, you are the dealer will be paying unless it is a company sponsored deal. Honda and Toyota cars DO retain good resale value, so it is possible that before lease end you have positive equity in the car (current buyout price >= car value) and if so you could sell the car yourself or trade it and roll the positive equity into the new deal. If the buy out of the lease = current value then any dealer could offer you a "pull ahead" lease on their own and without you paying "extra".
Another scam they do is sign someone for a long lease then promise them that at some point (maybe half way in) they can turn the car in and walk away if they don't like it. Again, just a trick and not something they would put in writing for a factory in-house lease deal. They may HOPE they could do it at that point if your car is worth >= the buy out price or if they can roll the negative equity into the new deal, but the odds of just being able to just drop the car off and walk away are really slim.
Honda will be getting your off lease car without having to give you any discounts or favors to get it - and lease end you have to either buy it or turn it in. Honda has a lot less trouble selling cars than most makes and fully expects after a trouble free lease in a nice Honda you will be ready for another Honda lease.
If you check the AHFC web pages you will see things like:
THE LEADERSHIP LEASING LOYALTY PROGRAM
If you're currently leasing a Honda or Acura with us, we'd like to keep you in the family. That's why we offer special lease incentives if you decide to lease another Honda or Acura at the end of your lease term.
To reward you for your loyalty, we'll waive the security deposit on your new lease. For more information, check with your dealer.
Still wondering what to do at the end of your lease? Read about Lease-End Options in the Looking Ahead section of this web site.
where they will waive the security deposit for returning customers.
And this info:
Option 1: Return your vehicle and lease a new one.
This option is convenient, easy, and best of all, you get to drive off in a brand new Honda or Acura! Your Acura or Honda automobile dealer will be happy to show you the latest models and discuss your options.
You will need to schedule a free vehicle inspection during the last two months of your lease. Through our Leadership Leasing Loyalty program, we may be able to waive the security deposit when you lease another vehicle through us. You will be responsible for any outstanding payments, excess wear and use, excessive mileage, and any other end of term obligations specified in your lease agreement. Visit the Planning section of this web site to learn more about our lease programs
So you can turn it in early, then still have to pay for it.
Dennis
The way it was explained to me by the internet salesperson and finance manager is this. You lease a SE,near the end of your lease, say the 30 or 31 month,Honda will send a letter inviting the customer to "move up" to say an EX, or any other vehicle.
This is how it was explained to me by the dealership.
BTW, the residuals on both my AHFC leases are pretty low so I would think that by the end of the lease or close to it the cars will likely be worth more than the buyout. Maybe that determines who gets an offer? I will likely buy both off the end of these or pehaps on one of them sell it through a dealer and make a little money on it.
Dennis
Dennis, thanks for your information. I have sent email to the dealer you mentioned in GA. As you said, I also got the quote of $18993+$477 dealer fee for 2007 SE.
I am planning to drive from Alabama to Atlanta for the car. As I know, I should pay Tax and registration fee here. I have asked the local car tag and title office about the price but they refuse to answer it without the paperwork of the car. All they can tell is that the state tax is 2% and title is $18.
Question: As I learn from others, the registration fee normally is about $100-200, is it coorect? Are there any additional fees I should pay because I buy a new car form other state?
The total price as my understanding is as follows:
To the dealer:
$18993(price with destination)+$474(dealer fee)+$3(GA Lemon Law)
=$19470
To tag/title office (Jefferson County Revenue Department)
state tax(2%): $380
registration fee (&title&tag): about $200
So the OTD should about $20070, is it correct?
Thanks,
But on a more important note are how in the heck are you guys getting $19,500 from a dealer on SE? Does that include destination?
It would sure seem a YMMV thing, so don't assume it will work for you. Of course, you do have to lease another car from Honda for any of that to work - and who knows when you "present the letter to the dealer" they are supposed to not give you the buy rate and jack it up to make more coin?
They are selling them that cheap at the GA dealer - that is what they are quoting and the price shown is for the car+dest+dealer fees. The dealer in KY will do either Accord SE for straight invoice including the dealer fees - so an SE from them would be invoice + your tags + your taxes. I don't think that either dealer cared if you pay cash, finance, or lease it at those prices either.
Dennis
AFAIK most states charge sales tax on "dealer fees" so your tax may be a little more than that.
If you are planning on writing a check for the registration stuff then you can wait until you get back to AL to get the exact amount. If you are wanting to finance the car and finance the taxes and tags then it gets a little more complex. "In theory" you could pay the dealer for the taxes and tags and then they would mail you a limited power of attorney, the MSO, and a check back to the state/county for the taxes. You take all that down and title the car w/lien to the finance bank.
Some states (FL) charge an extra fee for a car brought in from out of state, but I would doubt AL does that.
Seems like someone more helpful at one of the local offices to tell the scoop.
If you look a the AL FAQ at this link it has some more info. It looks like it may vary by country if you look at this link for Limestone county they show 2% AL and 1% county tax. Google up and see if your county has any online info.
Let us know how you make out, I have not had someone buy from GA in a while - but those that did previously were happy.
Dennis
I Don't know how leases work. Is there a way for me to purchase for that price, or does she have to purchase, then me buy from her. Will we be taxed twice, then?
In general, is the price for a buyout usually a good deal (better than you could find on the open market?) I know the history of this car, and that does count for something.
Any thought would be appreciated.
dave
What you can do is arrange to buy the car through a dealer. They, in effect, buy the car from the lease bank and sell it to you. If you can't find someone local to do it, I can recommend someone "on the 'net" that should be able to handle this for you - for a modest fee (a few hundred).
The residual (the future buy out price) is just a guess by the lease bank at what the car will be worth in xx months and xx,xxx miles. Most independent lease banks will use the ALG residual but captive lease banks (like Chrysler credit) can use any number they want to. The ALG number is normally fairly close to being the wholesale or even private party value of the car. I put in a 2003 laredo in the edmunds price guide, loaded it up, put 48k miles on it, and it came up with $12,436 trade and $14,159 private party. So the ALG number is right in the middle, about where you would expect.
Keep in mind, the numbers I did were for a 4yr old car with 48k in clean condition - about what they expect to get back. If this sample is in much better than normal shape and has been driven fewer miles, it is worth more - but the bank is stuff with the set price.
Most of the time they tend to hit on the money, but sometimes they miss. Anything that guzzles gas will tend to have a higher than real world residual if the price was set in the < $2 a gallon days. Hard to get and real popular cars will often be worth a lot less than residual and end of lease - it just happens.
Dennis
As I said, I would not plan on getting a letter nor would I use it as a factor in making a lease decision.
Another thought, if Honda hits a huge home run with the next Accord the current models will really tank in price. No way would the last of the "old" design be worth just a little less then the "new" Accord - so they may not hold value as well. Or, folks may not like the new design and the old ones hold up really well. Of course, it IS an Accord which means it is always going to be worth a nice sum as a used car - no matter what
The last time I checked the numbers, the current lease specials are around 5% effect interest - and you have to pay the $500 or so acquisition fee. Prime customers could get 6.39% or so financing, so the current lease deal is not that hot if you factor in the rate and the fee. When AHFC has a real deal, the rate can be < 2 or even less than 1%. What you could look at is just financing at a low rate, and run an amortization on the payoff 3 years from now and see what is still owed on the car and compare that to the lease buyout. You may find you would owe less after 3 years than the buyout price - maybe a good deal less, so you could easily cover the amount you owe with a trade in - and get the tax break on the new car.
Leasing can be a good hedge against the future value, the bank takes the chance - not you. If the car is worth less than residual, you turn it in and they are stuck with it. If it is worth more, then you can buy it at the lower price (or sell it through a dealer to someone else). I lease a C5 'vette several years ago and got a decent lease deal on a decent discount from MSRP. The residual looked fair - then post 9/11 GM started doing 0.0% for 60 months, employee pricing, etc and the bottom dropped out of the use C5 market. The auction value of mine was a LOT less than the residual. The lease bank extened my lease for free and eventually discounted the buy out so I could sell the car to someone - anything to keep me from turning it in. I ended up making a little money off of it, but the lease bank really got burned on that deal.
Dennis
1.paying ontime
2.The condition and mileage on car, Honda will know this every time you take it to the dealer (and you really should take to the dealer while under warranty).
3.Overall credit history
4. market conditions on new and used Accords
Factors such as these and many others explains why you are correct in that many do not receive this letter.
Back to the lease deal.......The salesperson told me at one time Honda was offering $199 on their Accords in the 06 model year.....is that correct? What were the payments when Honda had super low Money Factors?
William
It was 0.00113 (2.7%) and 54% residual for a 2005 LX I4 AT Accord. The "advertised deal" was like the current ones - about $2k out of pocket at signing to get the $199 payment, but like now you would get a lot of that in dealer discount. They had up to $750 in dealer money at that time too. Remember the residual is percentage of full MSRP (not your price) so that is set - the lower you negotiate the price of the car the less you pay each month.
If you look at the Hennessy web page specials they show the I4 SE and V6 SE leases for $219/mo ($1499 due at signing) and $228/mo ($1899 due at signing) rather than the $239/$249 rates on the Honda web page - this is based on the same residuals and rates AND the fact they are selling the cars for invoice or less. Any other dealer that would sell at the same price could offer the same lease.
As far as other deals go, I have seen rates as low as 0.00079 (1.9%) on certain Accord 06 models (V-6 LX or EX-L Navi V-6) earlier in the year. I SEEMS like the best money factors are at the start of the calendar year on through time for the new models to come out. The residuals may be less at that time (by a bit) but the rates seem to dip down and may stay down for a few months in Feb, March, April, and May.
BTW, one of my local stations ran an ad for an Accord LX I4 AT lease for $239 a month the other night. Strange, since the Honda web page shows they have extended the I4 SE AT lease deal until 10/31 - also for $239.
These are good, not great deals, for the SE cars - it looks like the I4 SE lease deal is 61% residual but about 5% money factor. I think all the Accord sedans have about the same MF so it is a pick 'em - the special deal may be a little less MF and 1% higher residual than the other cars.
They may decide to run LX lease deals again or EX lease deals. They will lease you ANY Accord at any time, but getting the one that is on special with a really cheap rate can save you some money - if that is the car you want.
Keep in mind also that everyone gets the same residual, but the rate varies with credit score (AHFC uses a tier system) so "for well qualified lessees. Not all lessees will qualify". In addition, the dealer can jack up the rate from the buy rate to something higher. Not many Honda dealers DO this, almost every BMW and other high-end car dealer DOES.
Dennis
I would not expect much better rates next month (November, actually) but you never know. Honda looks in their computer and sees they have 124 days worth of 06 LX I4 AT Accord sedans on the lots you can bet they will have an LX lease special and maybe even dealer money to move them. In the past, this type of thing usually did not happen so early in the model year - as they sold slower than they made them all model year the supply builds up until it gets to "some point" and then we have better deals.
If you need/want a new car now (say you are driving an old beater) then I would just go ahead and get one and enjoy it. If you have nice car to drive, then you could likely save some money if you wait - but it may be several months.
Edmunds shows $750 in dealer money for left over 06 Accords, so that is an option if you can find one. Would not lease as well as the 07 (lower residual and likely higher rate) but for a purchase it should save some money. The problem is the dealers stuck with 06 cars are ones that could not/would not deal before now to get rid of them - so what are they odds they will deal now?
Dennis
Another reason to wait till Oct. or later.
By the way I called Hennessey Honda in Atlanta.....Great people and a fine example of a Honda dealership. Shame I do not live near Atlanta.
Does anyone know of a dealer in the DFW area that they have had a good experience with in the past, and that they would recommend.
And any help on what this trim model is going for in this area, looking to buy.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Dennis
All of a sudden the salesman tells me that this price doesnt include license.. and that would add another $400.00. :mad: Again, is it because I am a woman? that he thinks I am so stupid? When did an OTD price not include license??? Then when I told him our deal was OTD, he denied it, got up abruptly and left.
So that leaves only one more Honda Dealer in the immediate area. Is there any other dealership someone can recommend, I am willing to go to Ca, Utah, or Arizona.
Thanks for your input!
Seriously.. that was ridiculous! Thats why I am willing to travel to get a car elsewhere...
Now to the details of the deal. It is a silver SE with grey interior. Selling price of the car is $19.9k+TTL and a $55 doc. fee. I live in South Jersey and I got it from Martin Main Line Honda in Ardmore, right outside of Philadelphia. It is a small dealership but I can recommend this place to everyone. I got the price through the phone before I walked in but I was still kind of nervous. This was the first time buying a new car and I had heard enough bad stories about the salesmen and knew about their notorious scams/tricks. However, it turned out that my worry was not necessary at all. I was surprised that I did enjoy my time with the sales person who served me. He was very polite, patient, and knowledgable about the car (PM me if you want his name). It was a smooth transaction. I requested quotes from other dealers in the area and I will suggest people to stay away from Burns Honda in Marlton, NJ. Their online quotes are always ridiculous high. I walked in once because it is close to me. It was a mistake and a totally waste of time. Don't shop there unless you are really good at haggling but still prepare to spend a lot time in it.
Now to the car, drove 20 miles to get home and following is my first impression.
Pros: smooth transmission, precise handling and fine cornering with minimum body roll.
Cons: road noise, not as quiet as Camry and Sonata, may be the tires; ride can be bumpy; with the A/C turned on and the car at a stopped position, noticeable increased of vibration and noise from under the hood; one thing I dislike most actually is the shifting stick. The plastic of the stick looks cheap.
Ops, looks like I listed more cons than pros. However, most of the cons are known issues. I knew them and I still got the car and I look forward to spending a lot good time with it in the next seven, eight years.
Finally, best luck to all of you and your cars! Cheers!
That said, my wife always reports that she NEVER gets treated the same way we did when we went to a dealer as a couple. It is not right or fair, but that is how it seems to be - consequently she quit car shopping on her own or with friends. When my daughter is looking for a new car, she does not bother to go look alone either - I go with her.
Take heart in the fact that your dealer would have tried this trick on a man. I would also have to admit that at a lot of dealerships you on your own would not be treated with the same respect and courtesy as a man would be - or if you took a man with you. I don't know why that is, but it is not right.
They should not judge a book by its covers. I for example, don't spend a lot on clothes - never have, never will - and I work in a blue jeans environment. So when I go car shopping I may look like a bum
Someone mentioned one time about a huge CA Honda dealership - may be the largest (volume) in the US? I searched and found it Norm Reeves Honda Superstore in Cerrits, CA. They claim to be the largest volume Honda dealer in the US. Looks like they also sell Hondas in Huntington Beach and West Covina. How far is that from you?
Dennis
Dennis
I am also looking for a 2007 EX-L I4 or V6 Accord w/o Navi. Anyone knows of a good price recently bought in the Chicago area. Any recommended dealers. If there are no incentives on 2007 Accord, should I just get a 2006 since I don't plan to sell it for another 5-6 yrs at least.
Thanks,
Saurav
I totally agree with so much you said! I dont know how far Cerrits, Ca. is, but I appreciate you mentioning them to me.
Believe it or not, I actually bought a car today! Went to the 3rd and last dealership in my area; Honda West. Of course, after sending emails to dealers in Arizona, Ca, and Utah...
I walked in,avoiding all outside salesmen. I asked to speak to the fleet manager.
If I can post his name, I would like to, as he was great to deal with. I took an extreme direct approach:
I am ready to buy today. I quoted the invoice price of the car and asked what he could do..Of course I wasnt about to agree on the price he gave me,and he asked what I wanted to pay.. He was also the first salesman to mention that OTD prices here in Nevada did NOT include license, which adds about $400.00 to the bottom line. When I worked with the salesman that I walked out on yesterday,and we discussed price, I said I wanted the price including T,TL,L. He NEVER said the OTD price he gave me excluded the license. Just tell me the truth up front and then I will make my decisions.
After just a drop of haggling, we agreed upon the price.
The car still has the factory wrappings on it, and only 3 miles
My quote from Findlay Honday, (that I walked out on yesterday)was $22,500, OTD (includes tint, no license). Todays price was $22,225.00 (tint, no license). So Findlay actually did me a favor, I got a better price!
I will let you know how I like the car next week!
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I don't live near Chicago but we used to track the Grand Honda ads in an S2000 forum - at the time they were one of the few dealers to advertise and sell them at a discount. At times it may be hard (but not impossible) to get out the door with the advertised price - but for this car with "no limits" (not just one stock number that sold last week) it would be worth your time to stop by with check book in hand.
FYI: Grand's ad shows the 2007 SE V6 AT for $20,895, invoice on this car is $21,638.
Dennis
Before there was internet sales, I used to walk in and avoid the sales folks until I got a glance at the "salesman of the month board". Found someone who won month after month and then I would ask for them. I usually had a better experience that getting whoever was "up" when I pulled in. The "fleet manager" or "internet manager" can be a big help too. The good ones know you are after the best price and need to give you that right off or you are done with them. When car shopping for my daughter's new car recently you would be amazed and how many "internet managers" never returned my e-mails and one even had a full mail box so my e-mail was reject over and over for days.
Dennis
The gentleman I worked with a Honda West, was actually one of the top producers (and it seems at 6 yrs, longest employees as well).. so your theory definitely pans out!
Thanks for all your imput Dennis! I really appreciate it!
Gerri
I got a price quote for 06 EX V6 w/ Nav for 25500 (including destination, excluding TTL), so, it is about 1500 below invoice.
This is the only 06 EX V6 they have left on their lot.
Is this a good deal? I really do not need Nav, but that is all what they have. Is there any chance I can get it for 25K?
thanks
Yes, they did offer me a 2007 EX-V6, w/o Navi for 25277 (including destination excluding TTL. It is the invoice.
I you don't want the Navi, the the newer 2007.
You already said you didn't want Navi, in that case, it is a waste of money to be the 2006 model.
....man, I thought about you as I gazed at Carmichael Honda's response to my submitting a "no obligation quote request"
...here 'tis: 2007 AV6 6M cpe..(sans NAVI) MSRP $30195 (our special internet price to you - - ta da: $28195 plus tax and license........)
...really out there in left field, right?
How can they be so naive? They ain't aware of Edmunds. Either that or they think the consumer is still in the dark ages (prior www)...
best, ez..
I love Nav systems and getting a new car so cheap under invoice I would be sold. If that is not enough, check out the used car values on Edmunds (appraise a car).
Put in a 2003 EX-L v-6 w/Nav and 36k miles - $18,608 $20,324 $21,921 (trade, private party, retail).
Put in a 2004 EX-L v-6 NO Nav and 36k miles - $18,743 $20,087 $21,246.
So in 36k miles or 3 years from now the two cars will be worth almost the exact same amount - yet one has NAV. So it cost you less now and retains the same value as the non-Nav car. So I would get it and enjoy the voice controlled Nav system all the while you own the car.
Dennis