Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
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_______Paint Protection AND Leather Protection
_______Rear Wing Spoiler
_______Fog Lights
_______Door Edge Guards (white) AND Fenderwell Trim (white)
_______Splash Guard Set (black)
_______Pin Stripe (Double black lines without Honda Logo)
_______Hood Switch Kit (security system)
_______Wheel Locks
Does this pretty much match what you got for $28,200 (and did that price include tax, tag, etc.?) Thanks for letting me know.
Instead of 17864+289+595.
Try for 18000+0.
Taxes and tags should always be kept separate.
I got an EXL for exactly $750 below invoice using this method. They itemized fees and freight on the paperwork which actually made my price for the car look even better.
Good Luck
Residuals do vary quite a bit based on several factors (model, mileage). No one publishes a list so as to confuse the potential buyers. The 56% rate you mention is for an Se-4, 36 months and 12k miles per year. Subtract 2% for a 15k/year lease. FYI, the SE-V6 has a 59% residual for the same 36 month term resulting in a very similar if not lower lease payment. I was close to pulling the trigger on an SE-V6 but had a bad test drive experience. Will try again soon.
Is it better to have Electronic Stability Control (ESC) with Traction Control System (TCS) as Hyundai has them built in. Do we really need it? I am trying to decide which car would be good for me as I trying to save some money, but still I would like a long, reliable car with little worries.
Thanks
I looked (several times) at the Hyundai Sonata as well - it is a much better car these days, has vsc and other standard features, liked the way it drove and the low price, but even the outside door handle seemed loose (salesman told me it was normal). Probably just negative hyundai bias on my part, but I concluded that the accord was ultimately the better value.
Best of luck.
It was 22713 EX-L, Add
595 destination
199 (un wanted pinstriping = profit)
154 (mud guards = fine I'll do it)
Pre- tax total 23661.
There appear to more deals out there. This was the max I was willing to pay for the car or I would have walked. I visited the show room then did the rest via email while travelling. This forum is a valuable asset. Thanks for all that contribute.
The second one is correct, or at least it was when I bought my SE V6 in November. This is the best time to get a good deal and still have a decent shot at getting the SE you want if a less common color is your preference. If color doesn't matter hold on a bit longer and you'll get a better deal into the summer. I think from around this point on the availability of certain colors for the SE will begin to shrink. Royal Blue Pearl is one of them, I know. I got mine over four months ago for $500+ below invoice, so now with an incentive in place $1500 below shouldn't be much of a problem.
Can you send me the dealer and salesperson to wgo2008@yahoo.com ?
Thanks.
MSRP (incl $595 dest fee)....... $22,220
Negotiated Price................ $18,995
Paid $3,225 below MSRP and $1,351 below invoice.
Only paid $299 doc fee plus title, license, registration, 8.1% sales tax (total of $2,231.36)
Total OTD....................... $21,226.36
Details:
"Internet Package" included Window Tints, Wheel Locks, Cargo Tray and Mud Guards at no cost.
I provided my own financing, so was able to get the $750 mfg to dealer incentive and most of the $648.75 holdback subtracted from invoice price.
Looks like "isu_wally" got it, but he might have negotiated his deal before the end of March...
You probably could have done better. You paid a total of $19,294 + TTL for the car. I bought the same car one year ago, when there was no incentive, for only $106 more than you paid.
No biggie, have fun with the car. Me on the other hand...my mileage isn't so hot, but that's another issue altogether.
I think you missed the point of my post.
Of course, isu_wally should not take anything to heart that is posted on this forum, it's just an informational pricing discussion.
But you mention, "dont even worry about comparing other prices." Yet the sole purpose of this forum is to post prices and compare them with what others are paying.
THe point of my post was to let people know that they should be able to get an Accord SE 4 cyl Auto for less than $19,200, especially with the $750 incentive now available.
No need to be so sensitive and sour about my post. I wasn't trying to "spoil" anyone's fun. I think most people use this forum to get a good deal on a car. I was simply letting people know that they should probably be shooting for a lower price on these cars.
I paid 23308 for the model car then added some dealer installed options that were prefit on the car.
The deals are improving as the 08's approach. Please consider an offer at least 1500-2000 off invoice. They are still making money, while trading inventory for cash. You can always come up but rarely can go down. If they don't do it walk, and try the next dealer. They want the sale and they want the potential future service revenue too if you are local. Hey they make money on warranty as they get reimbursed by Honda at an agreed upon rate that exceeds their direct costs as well. Trouble is they rarely have warranty compared to the US majors.
Car price is too fuzzy. :lemon:
I should've made it clearer. I meant after purchasing the vehicle, one doesn't need to lose sleep over what others are paying later down the road.
Definitely with you on using the forum for ideas of a reasonable price. When I first start receiving quotes, I was thinking "WOw !! 19,473 + 595 is a great price ! Waay below msrp !!" Then I found this forum...rude awakening to reality, but thankfully saved me many hundreds of dollars.
O my car price was 18.6 or so, last year.
What did you buy? I searched for the post of your Accord purchase in this forum and didn't find anything?
i got a 07 SE I4 auto. I really wish I had purchased the V6 SE. I figured a car this heavy should have disc brakes, which is why I skipped over the LX. EX- unnecessary features, personally, for too much money. V6 SE would've been perfect comb of price/power for me. Eh, nothing i can do about it now. Maybe one day when I have money :P
Though a manual trans would have made it much more enjoyable...
Bittergirl
First, read whatever you can on Edmunds or elsewhere on how to negotiate. You'll get more comfortable and the knowledge will come in handy.
You aren't specific in your post so I'm assuming you mean the 4 cyl LX sedan. Invoice plus Destination charge is $19,564 for this car. With a $750 dealer incentive, the $20,520 quote you received is way out of line. Vin etching is a waste, IMHO, and document fees are pure profit for the dealer. If they insist on tacking on a doc fee, have them reduce the price of that car by that much. Tax and license can't be negotiated.
As for accessories, you have to make that choice. Many dealers install them because of the extra profit they can make. Many people refuse to pay for them and end up getting them for free as they are already on the car. DON'T pay for anything you truly do not want.
If they are telling the truth, many posters seem to be getting at least $1000 below invoice on new Accords right now so I suggest you turn down this offer and shop around. Chances are this dealer will offer less if you show your willingness to walk.
Sounds like a bobst method convert!
All you (or anyone else) has to do is look at Edmunds or another site to see what the invoice + destination price is ($21,755 in this case). Subtract the current dealer incentive ($750) and then add tax, license, and any other "must pay" fees. Then offer that amount. If you read what others are saying here (and if they are accurate in how they report various fees and aren't trading a vehicle), you can make an even lower offer. Just be prepared for the salesperson to add a doc fee or other cost.
If you are interested in negotiating, start a bit lower and play the game. If you are looking for a fair price for you and the dealer and just want to do it quickly, be reasonable. But be prepared to walk out if you are turned down. Bobst claims that the last couple of times he used his method, the salesperson chased him out to his car and accepted the offer. If they don't, you can go to another dealer and either ask for the same amount or bump it up.
Good luck!
But why so bitter??
There are also incentives for sales staff to sell cars to meet goals. Someone may take a loss on a car just to make a goal that will bring in a big bonus. That's why many people suggest that you wait until the end of the month to deal. It is also why someone may post a killer deal that will be impossible for you to duplicate.
There is no "magic number". Someone will always get your model for less than you pay and someone will always pay more. Where you live is also a huge factor. It is easier to get a good price in some areas because of competition, etc. Are you willing to drive? For some folks, even a one-way plane ticket is worth a better deal. I've negotiated over the phone and drove to another state for my last two cars. That had more to do with trimline availability but it is still an option for some.
I haven't pulled the trigger because I want to lease (which jumps the price up), and this dealer initially was using the wrong residuals - so we stumbled around a bit. We shall see . . .