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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013
    i enjoyed your detailed post. your hogan method will work very good for you. Sometimes you need to get quotes to get the ball rolling. How you described how you buy is very similar to mine. i have been buying cars for many years and tried every buying option on getting the lowest possible price. Depending on the time on the year is how i figure out pricing and come up with a target price. target price is the key to getting the lowest price. When i buy a new vehicle for myself it is 90% of the time bought before that year starts. example 2012 bmw x-5 ... bought nov,2011. I arrive at a target price, target many dealerships and make my calls and emails. this applies to any model i'm buying.

    Invoice price minus dealer hold-back minus dealerships doc fee's minus any dealer incentives and rebates. This is how i arrive at a target price.

    As you get deeper in that buying year you will notice prices getting lower than this number. dealer incentives and rebates from the company contributes to this.

    I have bought close to a thousand vehicles for myself, family and friends taking so called dealers holdback money, dealers doc fee plus hundreds less than that number. Is Invoice price a true number? i doubt it

    So what is a realistic target number in Oct for a 2014 model?

    Invoice price minus dealerships doc fee charge.

    my target price watching this board for a 2014 would be starting at
    Invoice price minus dealer hold-back, minus dealer doc fee and working my best deal going back towards dealer invoice. This price would be hard to get by emailing dealerships only. dealing directly with each dealerships internet manager is how i close my deals quickly.

    supply and demand and your area contribute to pricing.
    reading thru these boards help you determine pricing.
    i pit one dealer against the next at the end. i let certain dealerships know who ther competition is and price. dealers know who sells cars and who dont. Thats why at crunch time they will ask you. Certain years and models are harder than other years. last yr was hard for a early 2013 accord buyer. This year prices have seem to loosen up for the 2014 model.

    Negotiation skill/ knowledge of area pricing/ how and when to buy is the key to my success. Supply at any dealership is when you strike and can make a great deal.. Find those dealerships.

    By having a target price helps you cut thru all that dealership nonsense and back and forth with pricing. its direct and you are in control of the negotiations. If you asking dealerships for his best prices you will never get prices like i'm getting or what your seeing in this forum. I will challenge every dealership for price.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Thanks Brian. A couple more questions. Do we know for sure what is the dealer holdback percentage on the Accords? Also why do you say you subtract dealer doc fee from the invoice price? I assume the invoice price listed everywhere (in the case of an EXL specifically, 26650) is before any doc fees are added by the dealer later in the process. Do you not pay ANY doc fees in your deals?

    And lastly when you do this do you tell dealers I will buy right now at X or do you tell them I am looking to buy a car, contacting numerous dealers of which you are one, and in my mind the pricing should be around X.....there is a subtle difference and I'd think the latter is better ?

    Oh one other thing,a few months back you posted a list of dealers in Chicago. Are those you've had best luck at personally? My closest is O'hare honda but they generally seem to stink. Last time I got a good deal from Honda of Lisle but I hadn't tried many of the names on your list. Or do you just use those further out dealers to try to anchor a lowest price and then get a closer one to match?
  • sunshine_boysunshine_boy Posts: 10
    edited October 2013
    Thanks Bill!

    Here's what I see on Consumer Reports

    2013 Accord EX-L : MSRP ($27,995) Dealer Invoice ($26,399) Holdbacks ($560) CR Bottom Line Price ($25,839)
    2013 Accord EX : MSRP ($25,405) Dealer Invoice ($24,037) Holdbacks ($508) CR Bottom Line Price ($23,529)

    I researched recently that I can get Altima 2.5 SL (with Navigation) in Dallas, TX at 25K (+TTL). Is it possible to get 2013 Accord EX-L
    at 25K (+TTL) ? I know you mentioned to aim for 1500 to 2000 below invoice, but I don't see any incentive offered by Honda on CR website.
    So I am not sure if 1500 to 2000 is still possible to get this vehicle.

    So basically if I pick either EX or EX-L (will decide by tonight after test drive), what number should I throw at dealer if they force to sell the vehicle on a same day?

    Please share your insight on this.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013

    Dealer hold back on all honda models = 2% of base msrp
    Base price on the 2014 exl model = 25860. 2% would be $ 517 in holdback money. You cant add destination charge of 790 into that number its not part of msrp.
    As far as doc fee's.... if i cant get dealer to remove his doc fee charge i simply add it into my asking price making doc fee a wash on the bill of sale at the end of transaction,

    Most dealerships i post on this web site i have purchased from them or had some involvement with them and found them upfront or willing to deal with me.

    I could narrow my search down to 3 dealers this month A, B , and C . Buy from dealer A. Next month when looking to buy again dealer A wont meet my price dealer C will or another dealership might have better pricing. To me when you have many dealerships to choose from they are all the same. Best price gets my business. I service my vehicle when under warranty at the closest honda dealership to my house either in New york or Myrtle beach.

    You start your buying process after your test drives and research is done. You make sure you have outside finance in place making every dealer match or beat your best rate. I start my buying process the 2nd to last day or last day of any month.... If your not as skilled as some of us you may want to start near the end of the last week calling /emailing dealerships internet managers. If your more comfortable going dealer to dealer use the same tips and advice while in each dealership. Just prepare yourself for alot of nonsense in most dealerships.

    I cant recall the chicago post and i'm sure i have a few high volume dealerships on that list. try them all.

    Target price below .......... this does not mean you could get entire number price but its your starting point to find out what your area pricing is. After 20 or more dealerships in your area are contacted you have a good idea where your best deal will lie.

    2014 EXL w/ Dest charge=...................26,650
    minus hold back...............................- 517
    minus dealers doc fee........................-
    minus any rebates/ incentives.............--

    Above number is your starting target price to buy on that day you start your buying process.. Work up back to invoice price making your best deal at months end if you cant get your target price. Always be in control of your negotiations.

    Your not always going to get the best prices you see posted in these forums. Supply and demand and area play a big part in this.. By buying any vehicle this way you will find out what your area pricing is . You will get the best possible price and deal and there is nobody that could of gotten you a better deal. This is how you buy a car.

    Read thur some of Bluecars back posts he did very well for himself buying by phone / emailing dealerships before making his deal.

    Let us know how you make out.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • jatanjatan Posts: 92
    edited October 2013
    Good thing with IL is that the doc fee is fixed by the state so tax/title/license/doc are the same at all IL dealers (I think its around $165 right now). Doc fee is just profit for the dealer so you take that into consideration when making an offer (you still have to pay it)

    Doc fees may be variable in some states so dealer A might sell you a car at $20000 and add a $100 doc fee, but dealer B a few miles away might sell you a car at $19800 (which seems like a better deal) and then hit you with a $600 doc fee -- if you wanted to pay $20000 for the car then you would offer $19900 to dealer A and $19400 to dealer B or $19835 in IL for the car with destination fee plus tax/title/plates/doc (or $20000 with dest/doc fee plus tax/title/plates)

    If you alrdy know a price that you're happy with paying then contact a bunch of dealers using their website and tell them the exact model/trim/trans/accessories you want and what price you'll pay with the dest fee (or dest & doc fee if variable): "I'm looking to buy a 2013 Accord blah blah blah with no accessories and I'm willing to pay $$$ with dest fee (or dest & doc fee) included plus tax/title/license(/doc). Let me know if you can make this deal happen"

    If you don't have a price and want to see what's the lowest in your area then contact them with: "I'm looking to buy a 2013 Accord blah blah blah with no accessories. What's your best price with the dest fee (or dest & doc fee) included?" See which dealer gives you the best price and ask if they can lower it further. Reply back to other dealers and see if they'll beat the price: "The lowest price I have from another dealer is $$$, are you able to beat that price?"

    You can ask them what promos/incentives are included in that price and you can also ask if flex cash is available if you plan on financing with Honda

    I bought a new Civic a few years ago and contacted about a dozen Chicago area dealers using their websites -- I asked for their best price with dest fee included for the exact model/trim/trans I wanted with no accessories added on (didn't bother mentioning doc fee since its fixed). About half of them got back to me with a price and Carrs Honda gave me the lowest upfront price at that time (2nd lowest was Elmhurst dealer but $1000 higher). I knew no dealer would be able to beat that price so I bought it from them the next day along with the 0.9% financing that Honda was running at the time. Got the deal mid-month since they had not sold another Civic in over a week so they gave me a rock bottom price to get their sales number up
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Good stuff Jatan and Brian!

    I am glad that doc fee is fixed in IL - makes it easier.

    Last time I bought I did the calling around for best price, then negotiating, strategy. I guess the only difference in Brian's strategy is he basically is the first one to toss out a number, and he tosses out a number that should be BREAKEVEN to the dealer on an invoice/holdback basis (if true, then the dealer is making no money? and the only reason they're doing it is to make higher sales numbers?) So I guess he is deciding what is the lowest possible price they could conceivably take, and putting that out there. I assume from there, both strategies converge. Most dealers will probably not take Brian's low price but will counter with something.....and away we go. I guess with Brian's strategy vs. mine, you might be signaling that you know what the prices really are, while if I just ask for "best price" they need to decide if they're gonna screw around quoting $100 off MSRP just in case I am a maybe you cut to the chase more quickly.....
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013
    my approach is direct no nonsense. I challege each dealership and i command there respect with my knowledge and negotiating skills. There is no game playing each dealerships has 4 mins or so to close me on price then i move on. I could very easily pull good numbers out of a dealer in the beginning of the month but end of the month with dealers needing those sales numbers makes it alot easier to get better prices.

    Good luck with your sale

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • kychoikychoi Posts: 3
    Hey, awesome guy. It was impressive, I am searching for EX-L. Could you tell me the dealership. Actually, in theses days, many dealers told me that 29000.
    This is unfair I think. I am waiting for your reply. Thanks.
  • kychoikychoi Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    Hey, awesome guy. It was impressive, I am searching for EX-L. Could you tell me the dealership. Actually, in theses days, many dealers told me that 29000.
    This is unfair I think. I am waiting for your reply. Thanks. I also live in Florida. actually, in tallahasse but I can move to southern florida to but it.
    I really need your help. please share the awesome information.
    Have a great day.
  • Invoice price? $28,573.00? Is that the consensus?
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 665
    Per Edmunds pricing, your stated figure is correct (incl destination).
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 665
    You might have difficulty getting folks who posted quite awhile ago to respond to you. Invoice on a 2014 EXL cvt Sdn is about 26,600. You should be able to get this car for around 26,000 plus TTL. You might run into a problem with Florida's doc fees, however. I understand they are somewhat substantial in your state.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • Just came home with my 2014 EX-L V6 Sedan. Add-ons included the moonroof visor, body side molding, splash guards and wheel locks. Before stepping foot on the property, I made an offer of $28,000 plus tax, tag and title via email. In less than two hours, the dealer responded back and accepted. Here's how the selling price breaks down:

    Selling Price: $27,901
    Dealer Fee: $599
    Flex Cash Credit: -$500
    Total: $28,000

    I was looking forward to a quick and efficient deal, given the internet manager's fast response rate. That all changed when I got to the dealership. He tried every trick to screw me over and in some instances won a few of them.

    1) After confirming the vehicle was on-property and its added options via phone and email, I arrived to discover the car had another $3000+ worth of add-ons (aerodynamics package, chrome wheels, etc.) The car looked way too pimped for my taste. He said he didn't know it had all these things, despite it being parked in the showroom across from his desk! Dealer tried to get me to change color choices. I refused so he worked on trading with a dealer 60 miles away...while I waited.

    2) During the wait, he evaluated my trade. Surprise! He tried to undervalue the car by a good $2,000. When I suggested to sell the car on my own and leave it out of the deal, he threatened to rescind the quoted price and the $500 flex cash. Mind you, he didn't even know I was bringing in a trade until I arrived today so I'm not sure how he intended to keep his end of the $28,000 bargain to begin with. (This is the point I should have walked out but I was tired and just wanted to get my car and go home.) Anyway, I pulled out a quote I received from Carmax and he begrudgingly bumped his offer up to compete...barely.

    3) So we wait a little while longer and move to the Finance office. You guessed it. The original terms of the loan offer weren't honored. Despite my impeccable credit and an email confirming 0.9% at 36 months as well as being offered this verbally in front of a witness, they tried to rope me in at 2.24%. I objected and got him down to 1.9%. I'm only financing about $10K for 36 months so the interest isn't that big of a difference. But it's a matter of principle at this point.

    4) At this point we're approaching the fifth hour at the dealership. The car has finally arrived (a three hour round trip for the trade-out) and is being detailed. I know I'll have to come back for the body side molding but I check for everything else. No wheel locks! Are you F-in kidding me?! Another sales guy joins in and tells me this car has nitrogen in the tires and that should be an equitable exchange. I told him that this was not the day for him to butt in after all I'd been through. Needless to say, the wheel locks will be added when I come in next week for the moldings.

    So kids, I think I got a fair deal though it could have been a better one had I pulled the plug at the point he started screwing around on the trade. Can't wait to get the customer satisfaction survey. I can assure you I won't be buying from Honda Mall of Georgia again.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Just saw you over on driveaccord. :)
  • kychoikychoi Posts: 3
    I left some message but I meant that I am searching for 2013 accord EX-L. Tampa Honda land suggested me that totally 29000 as OTD price. However, I think this is too much expensive, so I need your help as expert. Please let me know the reasonable price and negotiation skill such as What I have to do in negotiation against dealer. I live in florida but I can move to Tampa or another southern florida for cheaper price. I expected that this is almost end of this year and there is new 2014 accord model so the price for 2013 EX-L should be lower than that one. but he insisted that the price is lowest one. Thus, I posted this short wiring to you who give me clear and very fatal and critical answer. Thank you for your help and have a great day.

    Best regards,
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 665
    You got a pretty good deal but boy did you have to work and put effort in to get it. You got a great car in the end - congrats on the car and kudos for hanging in there.

    For other shoppers - make sure you confirm everything in writing (email, bill of sale, whatever) BEFORE going to the dealer. Make them understand that if ANYTHING is not what was agreed to, you are gone and all bets are off.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • sounds like you have got a decent deal based on CR data bottom line price at $27,936.
  • Hi five, Plagwate! I am sure you are glad it is over! I am waiting for a EX-L 6V to arrive at dealership sometime this week and will be going thru the same hell you did, I AM SURE. If you know the game (and it is a game), then it is almost comical (unless it is you having to play...) Some of their moves are sooo predictable and they should be able to figure out who they can mess with and who they can't. Glad you won in the end! Enjoy your ride!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,816
    Invoice price minus dealer hold-back minus dealerships doc fee's minus any dealer incentives and rebates. This is how i arrive at a target price.

    So...just curious...Your "target price" is a dead zero profit for a store?

    Forgetting about overhead, It sounds like you think car dealerships should be non profits?

    Carry on....
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Yeah I'm interested in the answer too. But don't dealers get some extra incentives (volume based incentives etc)? Also he is saying it is his TARGET price which is guess is basically the place he STARTS. I don't think he said he always BUYS at the target price. It is very interesting to me though how these dealers can basically sell cars for only a few hundred bucks in profit. I guess they make all their money through service, warranty sales and other BS like locking wheel nuts, etc. Or the random person who isn't as informed and thinks they got a great deal at $750 off the sticker price. Maybe there are more of those out there than we think.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    I dont believe my starting target price to buy is the actually bottom line number that dealers say it is. I prove that time after time with my vehicle purchases. If i cant get my starting number i adjust and move up towards that so called dealers invoice price.

    Dealers overhead cost and how then run there business does not concern me. I want every penny in my pocket not there's

    Dealership get over on alot more people than buyers like us in this forum.
    Have no pity on them.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    I have no pity!

    Obviously they are rational business people and aren't going to sell to me to LOSE MONEY unless there is some hidden reason (like a volume spiff - in which case they aren't really "losing money")

    I totally agree with you - they will do what they'll do and we don't likely know all the details in the background (even though isellhondas would tell us there is no "secret invoice price").

    When I bought my Ody I bought it for well below invoice and even the screen on the Finance Mgrs computer said so (I snuck a peek). I highly doubt the dealer LOST MONEY on me. And while I know they make money from selling warranties and other cr&p in the finance room pressure cooker, I also highly doubt they purposely agree to money losing sales on the showroom floor just HOPING that they'll get a guy to say yes to some of the cr&p....seems a risky strategy.....
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited October 2013
    {orig message mentioned 28,5XX for invoice price of EXL V6}

    SO using a 2% holdback and not counting destination in same, I get 28,017 for the DEALER'S ACTUAL invoice price of the EXL. So is a fair target 27,999 Brian? Or I guess if I know there is potentially flex cash in play, 27,500? We see another person just bought for 28,000 flat, and the dealer included the flex cash in that price so I guess the "real" price was $28,500 and the dealer made 500 bucks. Is that the right way to analyze that one?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,816
    I never wanted a customer to think about our overhead.

    Just reality, that's all.

    " Dealership "get over" on a lot more people"

    I guess in your mind, that means they made a decent (gasp) profit as any business must on order to stay in business.

    I think I understand now. Money stays in YOUR pocket and not "there's".

    Thank you for your explanation!
  • I am thinking about buying one of the new Accord hybrids later this year. Any informed speculation on how firm the prices are likely to be for how long?
  • Isell, a good deal is a fair deal.. At or $100-200 below invoice is a fair deal for both parties. I realize dealerships need to make a profit. 2-3% holdback, Incentives, ect all spells profit. .This game we have all been playing for years must work cause we all (including the dealers) keep playing it. When I enter a dealership, I must admit, I have to will myself to play fair and nice...because there's a trust issue that I have.
  • Just pulled the trigger this weekend on a manual Sport Accord. After a few months of back-and-forth from dealership to dealership, ended up with a pretty sweet deal (about 1300 off invoice) on the car, with no accessories other than Window Tint. (I can buy the pro-pack online for around $200 bucks.)

    MSRP: 24505
    Invoice: 22645
    Accessories: 199 (Tint)
    Final Sale Price incl Dest: 21360
    TTL+ Doc Fee (6.25% in TX): 1,640
    Total DRIVE OUT: 23,000

    Pretty happy with my decision and an awesome driving/looking car!! As the 2013's dwindle down in inventory, particularly with models like the 6MT with a low take-rate, there will be sweeter deals as the year end looms. Thanks to all on this forum for helping me make it happen!
  • Hi,

    Just went to dealership today and got an 2014 Accord LX. OTD price is 227xx. Dealership is in San Bernardino county, don't think I can announce the name but its right off the Fwy 10

    Break down as follow

    Transportation Fee = 790
    Documentation Fee = 80
    DMV registration, Title and Tranfer = 2xx

    Sale/Use tax for LA country (9 to 10%?) Sum all that up to 227xx

    I also got to apply the College grad incentive from Honda so minus another 500 bucks. CSR said no flex cash but when I asked about that during financing, the guy said that is for dealer. I had originally pushed the OTD number to 22500 but since they didn't budge, I figured fighting for the flex cash will be hard.

    Given the decent offer on the table, and that we were way past their store hours (2.5 hrs behind when we drove off the car), we just went ahead and closed the deal.

    Hopefully this will help someone in the future. I want to thank you all the contributor on this forum, I had been reading it the past two weeks to learn what exactly what I needed to do and how to achieve, and I can say that my experience going through Internet Sales Manager is good, but must have a target number (before tax) to throw at them and make them work to earn your business.

    Once getting a good number, then it's up to you whether to shop it more or not. I sort of did but it was getting late in the day so nobody bothered to reply to me, which was fine because my experience in this dealership was as good as it could get. I have been to other SoCal dealerships and all they want you to do is to go down there and discuss. I spent this past Saturday of this week at one ridiculous dealer that end up giving me MSRP + Fees + Tax after I spent 3 hours there. I could have find that number out in a matter of minutes!

    so off I go, enjoying the most basic Accord, yet satisfies all my needs :)
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013
    This post by joely88 is a perfect example what i talk about in these forums

    Dealers prices. These so called msrp and invoice prices made up by the car companies to throw us consumers off on how much they really make per vehicle. Dont believe it.. Our good friend isell who likes to contribute will never break his code of brotherhood... Thats why i'm here to tell you the truth about dealerships and pricing. I post in here from experience. Deals like this one i have recieved time after time.

    You all think your getting a good deal at invoice or 300 below invoice. The spread sheet says 500/600 below invoice is the dealers profit margin where he loses money. Never feel bad or take any salesman word about losing money on a deal. There not believe me.

    If your firm and negotiate hard for your target price you most likely will get it or come close.

    So how did joely get 1300 below invoice price on a 2014 model when the laws of the land say dealer is in the red about 500 bucks at that price.

    The 2014 model year just started why would any dealer sell this low for such a loss..?

    Cause we really dont know dealerships bottom line number on that vehicle. Car companies want you to use that pricing guide it helps all the dealerships. If they all stick together on that price guide dealerships stand to make the most profit. When some of the other dealerships who cant stay afloat defect from the price code is when you see pricing get better.

    Joe you made a very good deal hope you feel bad that your dealership lost money on you..

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 665
    You never mention your actual selling price (including the 790 destination and 80 dealer doc fee) - that would help others here on the forum. Was this Spreen Honda? (it is permissible to mention dealer and first name of salesperson).

    Seems like your sales price is around 20500 incl dest and doc fee - pretty good deal at around 1100 under invoice. Also, to clarify, you got another 500 off the out the door to make it 20,200?

    Congrats and enjoy your new Accord.

    Thanks, Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
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