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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • Thanks, and my bad ...

    Yes it's Spreen and I worked with an Internet Sales Mgr named James, actual CSR/sales team is Allison/Jason. Must present/print quote/email exchanges from James to secure deal.

    20532 (including destination fee), and plus 80 dollars documentation fee. That adds up to 20612

    Minus 500 from college program (but this is after tax). This is the CVT model by the way

    Just curious, in all experts' views, how were the chances of getting the flex cash throw into the deal? I don't think I have gotten to their "real invoice" part yet so they should still be profitable, but perhaps I wasn't prepared enough to press further
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    The thing to recognize is price includes all dealer cost plus dealer profit. Basic cost accounting. A dealer attempting any additions to the price is at best deceptive. Any additions outside of third party fees and taxes is nothing more than a dealer increasing the price. Documentation fees are nothing more than a shameful money grab by dealers.

    Consumers truly can never know a dealer's true cost. Consumers can be assured any price at which a dealer sells covers the dealer's pricing goals.
    Those goals can be different between dealers at any time. That is why shopping multiple dealers is a good thing

    Just bought a new vehicle. Went to one dealer who have an absolute low net sales price of $21,600. Salesman assured me that was the best net price I would find. Immediately went to a second dealer. Price for exact vehicle with same trade was $20,500. The difference was simply they had different goals.

    As stated, a consumer should never believe anything a sales person states even on the Edmunds' forum. Having been on these forums for years it seems clear Isell is obviously a sales person. With such contributors it is wise consumers accept advice cautiously.
  • MichaellMichaell ColoradoPosts: 65,300
    With a user name of "isellhondas", why would you think anything else? ;-)

    isell has been a member of these forums almost from the beginning in the late 1990's. He and I have agreed to disagree on multiple occasions over the years, but I respect his perspective on the business of selling cars.

    I agree that caution should be applied to all posts, not just those from the sales side of the discussion. I'm sure there have been posts over the years from consumers with prices that are simply unobtainable.

    Caveat emptor!


    2016 VW Jetta 1.4T SE / 2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4

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  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited October 2013
    Yes I truly believe this too. No way a dealer is ever really LOSING MONEY on a deal. Of course if the whole industry can inflate the INVOICE PRICE and disguise the real profit away from the prying eyes of the customer, then this INVOICE PRICE is really nothing more than a second MSRP. So we have "sticker" which is high, and then we have INVOICE which all the really smart kids will go find on their internet sites, and that is nothing more than just anchoring the customer on what the "fair" price should be when they get their deal of the century.

    The only way to truly know what is the lowest price achievable at a given time, in a given market, is to introduce a proper auction process and make sure dealers see you as serious and not a pushover and not someone who is really more concerned about getting their car TODAY without much hassle and worry that they might have to wait another 24 hours to be separated from their new infatuation that they've just spent 3 weeks dreaming about! Because you can talk the talk about "I want best price etc" but a smart dealer can easily spot your "tells" like in poker, if you act worried that he only has one Red car on the lot, and what time do they close today and would it still be possible for me to drive it home tonight if I get down there by 4pm, etc etc.....

    I think you gotta act serious and motivated....know the car you want and show that you know the true value.....but also show them through your actions that best deal is paramount and you are smart enough to know that there are other Red Accords out there, and the Honda factory is making new ones as we speak, and if you have to wait another 2 weeks to save $500, you're more than happy to do so.....just my advice
  • squashpilesquashpile Posts: 7
    edited October 2013
    Just wanted to say thanks for all the good info here. I was wondering what you guys think about this.
    I sent out my emails inquiring about a 2013 EX-L. I'm starting to get responses and many are telling me they don't have what I'm looking for and are pushing me toward the 2014.

    Initially I was looking at the 14 models, but changed my mind to '13 to save some money.

    Here is what I just received on a '14. The CR target price on the 14 is around $27,653. I'm assuming that is not including doc, sales tax and title? I will probably just keep pushing for a 2013, but wanted to see what people think about this price on the 2014.

    Price: 26,300
    OTD: $27,753.46

    EDIT: I asked about the '13 again and he said it would be $400 less than the '14.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013

    You and billy's post i agree with. When you read these posts on either side of the sales front you should take caution and use common sense. Some prices could be........ bs........

    I like to preach................ if you do a little homework and find your area's market price in your state which can be done by phone calls, getting email quotes or visiting dealerships is how you will know and get your best deal. How far you want to take this deal or make a better deal depends on your negotiating skills, and tactic's on buying. Having 2 or 3 dealerships involved in pricing is not the answer. What ever your preference is Trying for that killer deal or making a deal that seems in line with most.. This forum is where you can find helpful info on pricing and buying tips.. Use it to your buying Advantage with common sense.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 379

    Just to add your point about pricing in general. I am always baffled when some dealerships claim to have a no haggle pricing policy. That may be true, but it does not always mean that we (consumers) are getting the best price possible.

    I do not mind haggling for a fair price, but I am not going to allow myself to be taking for a ride by a sales guy who wants to maximize his bonus for the month.

    I understand that car dealerships need to make a profit to stay in business, but if more car salesmen were honest and truly offered the best possible price (It does not have to be the lowest price available in a particular market), then most consumers would not have to worry about figuring out dealer holdbacks, incentives, the best time to buy, etc...

    At the end of the day, we (consumers) have to be educated buyers when car shopping.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013
    Call dealership.......... You want answers ... So do i

    Call your quoted dealership and ask some very important questions. Never Assume price from a dealer/ salesman will ripped you off if you do not educate yourself on pricing. Which will be your fault for being lazy.

    2014 model

    Find out what the selling price of vehicle is?
    Does this price include dest charge?
    What are that dealerships doc fee charge ?

    Is that dealership offering any flex money on a 2014 model ? was it included in your price. Can you get flex on a 2014 model if you finance thru that dealership?

    2013 model

    Your target price to buy should be no less than $1500 to 2000 below dealers invoice price without taxes, dmv fee's.

    If dealerships are offering flex cash on a 2013 model i would be negotiating for that 2k mark if not more.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    I guess I should call myself "isoldhondas" since I retired three years ago.

    Michaell, we haven't disagreed on too many things and I appreciate the fact you know I never used these forums to promote business.

    It used to be very frustrating when a customer would come to me and tell me how he read on some forum how someone else bought a car for X number of dollars when I KNEW that never happened!

    I never knew if that poster didn't remember exactly what he paid, if a trade in had been involved if it were just puffery or one-upmanship on the part of the
    person who posted a false number.

    I even lost a longtime customer once that I had sold five or six cars to. He bought a new Odyssey and somehow looked in some forum how someone had bought one for some price that never happened.

    He told me I had taken advantage of our relationship and never bought another car from me.

    I have no dog in this fight and if it isn't real, I don't post it.

    Lastly, in the 17 plus years I've been around these forums I have seen a lot of "experts" come and go.

    Carry on and enjoy your new Accords!
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 379
    edited October 2013
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    blue, "no haggle" dealerships usually don't last long.

    People say they want a great no haggle price and a few actually do.

    The majority, however will simply write down that price and use it to have another store beat it. It's a no win situation.

    In my later years, the majority of my business was to repeat and referral customers. I didn't take many "fresh ups"

    I was never foolish enough to give a customer a hard number to shop and I was always happy when another store would do that.

    It always amazed me how many hours and how many miles some people would drive to save 100.00. Yes, 100.00

    I would have LOVED having a "no dicker" sticker but I wouldn't have sold many cars!
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 379
    edited October 2013

    "People say they want a great no haggle price and a few actually do. " I am part of that minority :)

    I have seen a few ads on tv here in MA about no haggle dealerships recently. I think it was this one: (non-Honda dealer). You can read more about their "No Negotiation Required" tag line: A few Honda dealers in the Boston metro area have similar tag lines:

    - Honda North : One Stop, No Hassle, Value Pricing (
    - Weymouth Honda : Where there is NO fine print! (

    I did not end up buying from any of those two dealerships. Honda North did not have the lowest price and they played too many games with me. Although, Weymouth Honda claims to have some of the best pricing and no fine print, their price was not competitive.

    Let's see how long these dealerships stay in Business.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Why the heck would you buy a '13 for only 400 less than a 14. THINK ABOUT THIS FOR JUST A MOMENT. Do you ever plan to sell the car? Never ever? Then maybe its worth it. But hardly anyone says they will NEVER sell the car. When it comes time to sell, and the date is June 12, 2017 or whatever, go plug in the values for a 2013 car vs a 2014 with same miles. It will be like 1500-2500 lower on the 2013 with same miles. So you got a discount of 400 YAYYYY! but you'll lose more than that when it comes time to sell. Nobody cares whether it was a Day 2 2013 or a Day 357 is a 2013.......
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    [It always amazed me how many hours and how many miles some people would drive to save 100.00. Yes, 100.00 ]

    I know people say this, but I will drive over to Menards rather than Home Depot to save 3.00 on something. I agree there can be stupidity like driving 2 hrs round trip and wasting gas and time just to save $100, but by the same token just because $100 is less of a PERCENTAGE of the overall purchase price doesn't mean it still isn't worth $100 in real money. If you were buying $110 in groceries and I told you that if you drove 25 minutes to a different suburb and you could get the same groceries for $10 because there was a FREE HUNDRED DOLLAR COUPON you got in the mail for groceries, you don't think lots and lots of people would say Holy Shnikes - yeah I'll drive over to that market to get $100 in free groceries! Economically what's the difference? There is none....
  • I'm not and I agree. I was just posting what I was told. That is nuts only $400.
    It would d have to be 2-3K at least I would think. I though his '14 was reasonable, but I'm not sure. I'm going to keep checking on '13 models.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Yeah my guess is they will sell any remaining '13s for much more than 2-3K off (that doesn't mean it is a good deal by the way)......

    I think people don't really think through the logic, so a good salesman can say "Hey listen, I have a great deal right now on a 2013. My boss is pressuring me to move it to make way for 2014s. IT IS THE SAME EXACT CAR! How about I give you $500 off and we make a deal...will really win me points with the boss, and you are getting the SAME CAR and pocketing $500! $500 is a lot of money! Deal???"

    And there will be people that will bite on that all day long, because they are just focusing on two sound bites "SAME EXACT CAR" and "500 CASH SAVINGS"

    When it comes time to sell, if they thought about it, they'd do a "D'OH" facepalm.....
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    This subject has been posted quite a few times by me. If your late model 2013 Accord is totaled or stolen in that first year you stand to lose the most money. At this time of the year you want to buy a 2013 closer to 2k. At 400 to 800 in price difference between years the 2014 should be your clear cut choice. Unless your keeping vehicle 7 or more years. At 6 years or more is when both years are about 1500 dollars apart.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Yes I agree.. It would have to be AT LEAST 2K for me to bite. We plan on driving this car for 6+ years easy.
    That OTD price on the '14 does not seem too bad.
    I' waiting on more emails now..
    Thanks again guys..
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    " What's the difference...there is none"

    Yeah, I suppose but I can tell you I sure wouldn't make a 150 mile round trip to save 100.00. My time alone is worth more than that.

    Yet, I saw people do just that.

    I would sell these people cars knowing some poor salesperson had spent three hours on a busy Saturday with this "smart shopper" showing cars, driving cars etc.

    To each his own I suppose...
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013
    My suggestion to you is find a 2013 model of your choice on a dealers lot. You need a target price to negotiate with dealers to get your lowest price..

    Read thru blues post #'s for some more helpful tips on buying and you should be able to work a good deal.

    You should have a target price. 2000 below invoice on the 2013 is a good starting point. work back up to invoice price making your best deal.. Any deal that goes below 1500 off the invoice price do not make. Consider a 2014.

    2014 model target price = 600 below invoice back to invoice would be in line with prices we see across the country. That should be your price guide to buy.
    Always try to buy at months end where you will get dealerships lowest price.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    It's all perception.

    " WOW, I can save 400.00 by buying a 2013 instead of an identical 2014??

    You won't save 2K. Not even close.

    This is a no brainer. Go with the 2014!
  • squashpilesquashpile Posts: 7
    edited October 2013
    I'm seeing 2014 EX-L invoice about $26,650 on CR.
    The only EX-L 2014 price I have so far is $26,300/27,753 OTD (doc fee, tax,title). I may just drop looking for the 2013 and work with this '14 OTD price. That price includes all the dealer crap (plash guards, wheel locks, pinstripe, and paint sealant) that I don't want too.

    I'm in a bad car situation right now so I have to get something soon. I hate paying for all that add on junk, but I'm not sure I have the time to haggle over getting a car with none of that on it. It seems like all the local dealers are adding that stuff.

    Thanks for the info Brian.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    edited October 2013
    Here is the rule of thumb in my book. Consider how much you make in one day.

    A 500 dollar saving for a 100 mile vehicle pick up. Consider it a days pay. Most people dont come close to 500 a day. Any trip longer is a judgment call depending on how much more than 500 dollars your getting.

    If you guys learn how to buy a vehicle buy phone and seal deal by fax paperwork a 100 to 300 mile deal is very easy and fast when you pick up vehicle. Of coarse if there is a trade in and your credit is bad would be a problem. Cash customers like myself makes these deals a homerun.
    make this same deal for 1000 less than every one else. Why not. Deals like i'm talking about are done all over the country by educated buyers who know how to buy cars. Fast transaction when picking up vehicle. No back room guy involved anymore.. all paperwork and pricing is done. just a pick up in most cases.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,896
    listen i'm running out. On the quick side here.. Read thru blue's buying tips and off my head here are a couple of my old post numbers that might apply to you.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    Dealers usually pre install these accessories as soon as the cars arrive.

    If you buy an INCOMING 2014 (make sure they have a VIN number) you can simply ask them not to install any accessories.

    Personally I want Splash Guards and the way people love to steal those expensive alloy wheels, I get the locks too but that's me.
  • Yes, however some of them add them later but never update the online profile of the car. When I went to pick this car up this past weekend, I was surprised to find it had been pimped out with aerodynamic trim, a raised spoiler and chrome wheels. The dealer never mentioned this in our correspondence or phone call. He didn't think I would mind the $3,000+ in extra accessories. Take a look. None of that crap is shown in the photos. new-11040148.html
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Can't you have them UNINSTALL this cr8p? I mean it takes them 6 minutes to add on some plastic splashguards....why can't it take them 6 minutes to take them off again before they deliver me the car so I can save $300 or whatever ridiculously inflated price they are charging? Same with wheel locks. Probably takes 90 seconds at worst.
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Brian (or IsellHondas or others....)

    What is best advice on how to negotiate a trade in? I know to "keep the trade out" when obtaining quotes from internet/phone. But let's say I have 4 dealers, and they're all within a couple hundred bucks of each other and it is a good price that I'm willing to pay.

    Cheapest dealer is 70 miles away, next is 25, and the two most expensive are 8 miles and 15 miles away.


    1) I realize it is "always" better to sell the car yourself, according to popular advice. But in Illinois you can save on sales taxes with the trade, so if I can get a trade in price that is NOT TOO FAR away (ie 80-90% of the amount I'd expect to get in a private sale), I'd do that all day long to avoid the hassles of selling through Craigslist, having weirdos come to my house and dicker with me, etc. After taxes that would get me close enough.....

    2) IS it reasonable to ask a dealer to quote me a trade in price based solely on the make/model/mileage of the car? I'd actually happily sell at around KBB value here on my BMW. I know dealers will say "you need to bring it in so we can drive it first" but IS IT REASONABLE to get them to quote me the trade and then agree the Honda purchase price AND the minimum trade in price before I venture over to their dealership to close the deal?

    Obviously the trade confuses things potentially AND GIVES LEVERAGE BACK TO THE DEALER....if he knows I just drove 70 miles to save $200 on the Accord, he can offer me $4000 for my $7000 value BMW and gamble that I won't walk on the deal and drive home 70 miles empty handed.

    I'd like to establish whether dealer A will offer $7,000 for the KBB $7,000 "trade in" quote while dealer B will offer $5,000, so I can focus on best overall deal.

    SO WHAT IS BEST WAY TO DO THIS IN PRACTICE???? Any tips very much appreciated. This is one part of the whole thing that I haven't yet mastered......
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    Now, THAT is really bad!

    " He didn't think I would mind" ???????????

    I've never even heard of aerodynamic trim on an Accord and spoliers quit being popular years ago. Chrome wheels when the car already comes with a nice set of alloys??

    Yep, some dealers do this with phone shoppers. They lured you in with a low price and then tried to ambush you with those expensive accessories.

    He didn't think you would mind. Unbelievable

    Maybe one out of ten people simply cave in at that point, exhausted from the fight and go ahead and buy the car even though they were lied to.

    I remember there were stores we wouldn't trade with because they would add stuff like that. Especially on Pilots and Odysseys.

    I would have been p***ed!!
  • Brian,

    I don't feel bad at all for the dealership who "lost" money on my transaction. If they are a viable business, they would not give me the car for that amount of money and "lose money" on the transaction.

    Car buying is no different than any other commodity item that we purchase except for one thing - prices are driven by consumer demand and manufacturer supply. MSRP is dictated by the manufacturer with the idea of some amoutn of that going direct to the manufacturer and some amount of that going to the dealer / regional distributor / transportation / other middle men in the transaction.

    Like any viable business, car - makers and dealers DO NOT make their "COST" transparent and visible to the customer. The invoice price, information regarding rebates, and holdback are a great place to enable to cuonsumer to set a target price; however, it is by no means the absolute BOTTOM line for the car dealership. If it was then everyone would be buying vehicles for 100-300 dollars above that cost.

    The fact of the matter is that on some transactions, dealers make upwards of 1000 dollars profit on a new vehicle (through financing, insurance, extended warranties, and padded accessories).

    Keep in mind that one specific transaction does not break the bank for the dealer. They are in the business of selling HUNDREDS of cars a month, and they stay in business by reaching sales targets and obtaining incentives from the manufacturer for putting their vehicles on the road.

    Honda is coming back with a great product and is taking direct aim at Toyota, Nissan, etc.. and they have very agressive MSRP to start with. If you work with multiple dealers directly, let them know that they are competing for your business, you will get the best possible price with some patience.

    Of course, this depends on how urgent you need the vehicle and how willing you are to negotiate. For some people this is a burden. For others like myself (slickdealer for life!) it is required before I make most large transactions.

    The dealer that sold me the vehicle for 1300 below invoice will get repeat referrals from me to any friend that I can recommend. They will get the benefit of service from me for the remainder of the period that I own the car.
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