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Above post from blue applies to you also as far as price for a 2014 any model Accord vehicle.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I've read and I believe it was mentioned on the previous page or so the invoice price listed on these sites is not exactly correct.
Edit, Actually, the dealer offered $29,062, excluding doc fees. so $1040 under invoice. but they don't even have stock according to their website.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Here's were I was spoiled, bought our Odyessy from a Dealer on ebay, we actually went direct as we didn't like the one they had listed, called the internet manager, told him the one we wanted after reviewing their inventory, got the same price advertised on ebay, $27,500 with doc fee's, MSRP was around $32,200 if I recall, cashed in some skymiles for a one way ticket. guess I'm still chasing this deal, roughly $5000K less than MSRP.
And like I said I'm in no hurry, was just testing the waters to see if there was any reason to buy now rather than later.
Not to mention alot of laughs along the way in here
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
We can call it a......... Nov to remember tent sale party. If any of you regular experts want to stop in we could put our heads together and make a 2k below invoice price buy plus flex cash sale on a 2014... I'd be more than happy to broker that deal in between grilling.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Hey - all you folks have a great Thanksgiving - forget about buying cars for a day!
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I bought the car a couple of weeks ago on Sat from spreen honda. Staysi is the person who I've been dealing with online and offline (at the dealership). She was very nice and patient.
The whole deal took maybe 4-5 hours until the dealership closed. We had to go through with the major up sell on fabric protection, exterior protection, security protection, etc - added costs would have been 1k to 4k.
Staysi was nice enough after we declined all of it. Same for the finance department, but she was also nice about it, though she made everything sound somewhat dire and great to buy.
We left mid-point because we thought should have been able to get the flex cash for financing through Honda. I called a backup dealership to see if he could offer the flex cash without strings attached, he said yes.
During our meal break, he and I called back and forth and I told him my situation. His price was a little higher than spreen's but couldn't match the price, even with the flex cash. We went back to spreen and bought the accord.
One thing that was probably misleading was that she and her manager told us that we needed to buy one of the options in order to get the flex cash.
I could keep going on, but here's the price breakdown. Southern California area.
Price: 24,919
Doc fee: 80
Sales tax 8%: 1999.92
E-vehicle Reg: 29
License fee: 162
Reg/title/etc: 100
CA tire fee: 8.75
Total: 27,298.67
I financed with Honda @ 1.9% with a down payment.
Good luck, and Happy Thanksgiving.
This is the exact deal that I posted in the beginning of November that was offered to me by Spreen and Staysi. I was also quoted 22,624 for the EX. Waiting until the end of December to get mine and will probably get the EX. Slightly disappointed to hear that there were a few shenanigans but glad that your price quite was honored overall. Hopefully my post helped
Did they have the color you wanted easily enough?
And just because I'm curious, did any of the other dealerships come close in price?
Enjoy your new ride and congrats!!
You did well. Enjoy your new car.
Yes we got the color we wanted, black.
The backup dealership (el monte) I had was about 200 dollars above, with flex cash.
Already enjoying the car bluemkn57cars, thanks.
I would suggest whoever looking in NJ to just extend your search.
regards
Brainage2
Do we know who the best bets are in DE, southwest PA or eastern MD? Really wish Fitzmall had Hondas...
Here are my 2 top Honda dogs in Md.... both dealers sell cars.
Best bet internet manager Nov,30 or 31st.. Call with your target price for the sale that moment. If you guys agree on a price tell them to fax the buyers order to you with vehicle specfic's...... you both sign it and your done. leave a refundable credit card deposit unless he has actual car with Vin number on his lot.
Pohanka
Criswell
Here are a few others in MD they are hit or miss. More on the miss side.
Sport
Jim Coleman
Ourisman
Anderson
Price .............DE.......... in dover
Philly/ PA................. dealers to contact
Conicelli, Scott, and Mike Piazza
I have done over 700 fax buys spanning over 40 yr for family friends and friends of friends ..This is the only way to buy vehicles today Especially guys like us looking for that big bang. Once you buy and do the deal by fax you will never look at your local dealerships the same way anymore. You Weed out the salesman and all the lies and BS that come with that territory. dealing only with the internet friendly dealers who sell cars . Dealerships that are stone age and not Internet savy in todays times will be extinct soon enough.
Let both dealers in MD know if you cant meet xxx price and i dont get xxx price today. I will be buying next month. Keep the lines of communication open with my 2 top dogs.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Way to go using this forum's resources, being patient, and hanging tough declining the extras.
Enjoy the new ride and have a happy thanksgiving!
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
May I asked which so cal dealer you went to for this deal?
I'm interested in a 2014 ex-l CVT accord.
Thank you
"All sale prices exclude taxes, tags, processing fee and freight. The Insights, Civic LX, Accord LX and Crv LX 2WD require Honda Finance. There is no special finance rates on the 2014 Accord Hybrid. Active duty military and recent college grad discounts require Honda finance. 0.9% for 36 months unless otherwise specified. Insight does not qualify for special finance. Sale ends 11-30-13. Honda of Tysons Corner is not responsible for human or typographical errors."
Sunday is Dec, 1st you may lose your pricing leverage.
Good luck post your deals.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Call Yonkers Honda.........Int/Mgr.........Rich, S
He is telling me he is looking to sell cars this weekend. I dont know what numbers where talking about but Rich is a straight shooter, no... bs type of guy he will give you his bottom line.
Yonkers is a well run dealership.
Tell him Brian from Edmunds speaks very highly of him and thats why your calling today.
See how close to your price he could get to close the deal today.
There are a couple of forum members looking in NJ you are welcome to give Rich a call. Mention my name it may help you with a little better pricing this weekend.
New Rochelle Honda is always on my short list here in New york on the last 2 days last day.
All doc fee's in NY are.............. $75
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Honda has an offer for the $1999 down & $199/month lease.
Can someone provide details on MF & RESIDUAL & current selling price please...in Tampa if that makes any difference.
Current buying wind ? Buyers market?
Thanks!
Nationally advertised leases usually use a selling price that is higher than you could negotiate on your own - the dealer would love you to take that advertised lease with no more negotiation - they will make more profit than they usually do.
Read through these forums to arm yourself with info and get up to speed.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
But that is sort of the same trickery the crummy dealer pulled on me and made me walk. These guys are insane and liars. Waiting for ISELL to say that it is "our fault" for trying to dig to the lowest price
Here are my lease terms:
$3500 down + $339/mo for 36 months for 15,000 miles/year. Includes sentinel package: unlimited oil changes, tire repair/replacement, $150/tire and $35/repair, roadside and trip interruption.
After signing the papers, I find the agreed upon value of vehicle: $28,120
Residual value: $14,680 (not including tax)
I intend to buy this car at the end of my 3 year term, so the total cost would be:
$3500 + $339/mo*36mo + $14,680*1.07tax = $31,411
1. is my math correct in terms of estimating the total cost to own this car after 3 years? If so, by how much did I overpay??
2. truecar.com states the average price is trending below $1,850 below MSRP. MSRP is $28,785. Should I have originally negotiated the price down to $26,935 and then come up with lease terms?
3. truecar.com also states the estimated lease payment of $324/mo for 36 month lease and $0 due at signing. Excludes tax. What is this number based off?? What is the agreed upon value/ residual price when people get lease deals like this?
4. After 3 years, I will have spent $15,704.. which is 55% of the MSRP. What would be the wise thing to do at the end of my lease, given I am under 45,000 miles? Buy out with residual value or return it?
5. When there are 6 months left in the lease, is it possible for me to go to another dealership, buy/lease a new car and have them pay for the remainder of 6 months? I guess what I am asking is what is the best possible way for me to recoup some of the $ I wasted in this deal..
Your feedback is much appreciated!
Thanks,
Al
Yep, it certainly is! In that person's zeal to not pay one more nickel more than someone else did, they failed if destination charges were included.
The store I worked at was always careful to make sure the shoppers knew about destination charges and we would warn them that there were stores in the area that wouldn't say anything.
" Of course, you realize the price I quoted you didn't include freight?"
Sadly at that point, that sneaky tactic often worked. By this time the "Smart Shoppers" were worn out and exhausted from the process and they would simply cave in and pay.
Even worse was the fact that quite often the "good store" that spent hours with the customer answering questions, driving cars etc would lose the sale to the store that lied to the shopper.
I sure don't miss this business.
This is a common practice in your business. Dont take it personal its a big game. When you do not do your homework on pricing and dealerships you get what you deserve. Lied to and most of the time dealers take advantange of you,, If you dont want to play by the rules dont complain. This goes for the salesman and the consumer. The car companies setup the rules and guidelines. Use them to your advantage.
Here are the common lies from dealers
Come down will give you a great deal/ will match or beat that price.
Will remove doc fee charges
yes dest/ charge was included in this price
yes we have the vehicle in stock
Then when you go to dealership
cant match discussed price
No vehicle on lot or has a ton of add on's.
Thats why a honest dealership that you worked for gets the short end of the stick.. Your Industry sucks..
You guys deserve to be sucked for every penny from guys like me for dealerships bad practices. Its always nice to give back what alot of dealerships dish out
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Post your message in the Accord leasing forum they will help you. What i can tell you is the basic's on leasing.
Always Negotiate the lowest sale price of vehicle then have dealer apply the right leasing numbers to the deal.
1- Cap Cost
2- Money Factor
3- Residual value.... ETC
Most folks are buying the 2014 Accord at a little below dealers invoice price to 500 below. You could gauge your deal by your models invoice price.
Your big Mistake was putting a $3500 upfront payment on your lease. If your Vehicle is totaled in a accident or stolen you will lose your down payment.
You want to make 36 equal payments and roll everything into that lease including the taxes.
Whats done is done. You have a great vehicle go and enjoy it and dont look back. I would suggest reading thru this board on buying tips and tricks to getting the lowest price in your area.. It will help in future buys..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Got almost the same deal here in CT. My OTD was 27200 for 2014 EX-L sedan I4 CVT. Looks like the east and west coast are pretty evenly matched at this stage!
I had done a ton of research and a couple of my friends benefitted from it since they wanted to buy Accords to and ended up getting the same deal. I got a nice kickback from the dealer. If anyone in and around CT interested, PM me and I can share the details!
Enjoy your new accord.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
What I find amazing in this process is the obsession with the fraudulent invoice price of $28,543 ($28,043 after flex cash). lol such bs since we know there is around $1,000 holdback plus potentially massive bonuses from Honda for sales targets. Dealer after dealer cites this price to me, and treats it like the holy grail of pricing. When I tell that that I think their true cost after flex is $26,800 and that they could sell to me for $27,300 and make a tidy profit, 80% of them recoil and tell me that the price is IMPOSSIBLE, and that no one else will give that price since "we all pay Honda the same price for the car and no dealer will LOSE money on the sale." bs bs bs bs.
Thankfully I'm finding the MD market a lot better than tri-state. A firm $27,500, a possible $27,250, and a possible under $27,000 (hard to believe). Would like to tie this up this week... we will see. Would be great to send a smarmy e-mail to the dealers telling me I will never get under $28,000 pointing out that useless overpriced stone age shops have no future in the open information internet age.
Hold backs will range from 400's on the lower models to about 700 on the top of line accords. Plus dealer incentives, manufacturer to dealer cash, hush money, sales incentives all things we have no clear cut proof how much they are getting. And on top of that this so called dealers invoice price is probably padded for dealerships to make a few more bucks.
i guess its safe to say you did not buy a car today.
You should hit your mark this month.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Super busy and the dealerships I wanted to do business with ran out of flex cash. I'm going to try to get the same prices they offered minus the $500 flex cash this week. We will see how that one goes. Obv they wanted me to buy today, so they claimed they "adjusted" the prices down $500 to account for no flex cash. Sounds like bs, their margin should be the same pre flex and post flex -500 $.
Aaloke,
There is no PM here from what I can tell. on the Driveaccord forum you said you got 24,900 + 399 dealer fee = 25,300 on an EX-L or $1350 under invoice. That is a great deal. If you pm me the dealership and salesman names on driveaccord, I will reach out and see if they will do $27,200 on a V6 which is also $1350 under invoice. If they will, and my sub $27k offer doesn't pan out, I would pull the trigger at that price, and you should get a referral fee. Not sure they will agree to go that deep though on a V6 though.
Tell them that you WILL make that one offer and that if accepted, you WILL buy it and drive it home today?
Instead of worrying about how much evil profit they just might be making, just offer what you are willing to pay!
Tell then that it's a take it or leave it offer...PERIOD!
If they accept it, you should be happy. If the decline, you'll know you didn't offer enough and you can go from store to store making that same offer.
It really doesn't have to be that difficult!
My offer was structured this way. Cost 24900 (tax was on 25500 because I got 500 off via Honda financing cash and 100$ visa gift card) + 399 dealer fee + 6.35% CT sales tax + 188 registration
Veers, I PM'ed you on driveaccord for dealer name and my information so you can try your luck on a V6.
True Car is a business and gets a referral, so take that into consideration. It is hard to figure costs from a board when the geographic location is a determining factor in that. There is a Honda dealer near me in Woodland Hills CA that will add on to the lease. I just read about two guys that had that happen to on YELP. I always think I shouldn't go in alone because they will take advantage of a woman walking in alone. If you feel you paid a little more, they certainly didn't take your life savings. Enjoy your car and remember that you bought a good product. I think it's hard for a dealer when some people basically want a car for free. I wish it was a set price. I read this article in the NY Times that talks about car buying.http://bucks.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/01/08/what-i-learned-the-hard-way-abo- ut-leasing-a-car/?_r=0
1800 to 3000 below invoice plus any incentives and rebates that apply to you on the 2013.
what state are you looking to buy..
Remember Jan,1 st 2014 your 2013 model is considered 1 year old model. If your car is totaled or stolen you need to Re-coupe the depreciation value of a 1 yr civic. Not to mention your INS co. will take the deductible off the top of the vehicle price before sending out the check. Keep that in mind when negotiating price on a 2013... Good luck
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
The only thing that can help me now is to learn more about my options at the end of 3 year lease. Can you please elaborate on "if you decide not to buy your car you can use your leased car as equity"? What steps should I take to find out the true value and by how much over/under it is from residual value? Lets say I find out the car is worth $16,000, or about $1,500 more than residual value, how can I use this towards my next lease or purchase?
Thanks,
Al
This neglects the fundamental economic tension in the new car buying market. Dealers get the car from the manufacturer at a certain cost. Its not the joke "invoice" price, but rather a much lower true price reflecting all kickbacks. On the other side there is me, the consumer. The dealership has no idea of what the car is actually worth to me. That depends on my utility preferences, my time horizon, my liquidity situation, etc... To the extent my value on the car exceeds their true cost, there is a deal to be made. Both sides will try to get the better side of the deal. To wit, the dealer would like me to pay what the car is worth to me (your suggested solution!). I would like to get the car at the minimum price the dealership will sell it for, which is their true cost + some minimal profit margin. I'm ignoring some dynamic pricing and market factors for the sake of simplicity. The challenge here is that neither side knows the true numbers for the other side!
Thus, my goal is to figure out the lowest price a dealer will sell the car to me for. I'd also like to know how much that will go down if I wait a few weeks. So, instead of going around like Bobst with a pre-written out check (which might well lead to overpaying!), I prefer to reach out to dealers, get their "best" price, and try to negotiate them down to their true best price. This is complicated because different salesmen at the dealer can often push through a different bottom line price, and the fact that the price changes over time.
In my case, I feel confident that $27 flat would be a great price (though I'd like to see any applicable December incentives first). I will be shopping this price to the most competitive dealers over the next week and see if any of them bite, though I must say that most of them are still whining that they will lose money at that price (Lies!). If I fail to push through $27 flat by the end of the month, I will need to reassess.