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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 512
    Danny - congrats on the new Accord - that is a sweet deal - about 1650 back of invoice and rivals, maybe beats blue and hogan's deals.

    Way to go using this forum's resources, being patient, and hanging tough declining the extras.

    Enjoy the new ride and have a happy thanksgiving!

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    Good job...... Dan enjoy your new car.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Hello Kriptonic,

    May I asked which so cal dealer you went to for this deal?
    I'm interested in a 2014 ex-l CVT accord.

    Thank you
  • veersveers Posts: 79
    Thanks for the info... I'll give these guys a shot. $27 flat would be a steal, I think I can take $27.2 now, anything higher and I'll wait to see if Honda throws in some more incentives and try to snag a deal early December. If anyone wants to make a deal in NY, your best bet right now might be to get in touch with Huntington Honda, and make an aggressive offer to their internet guys. Still going to be tough to get south of $1k under invoice (including $500 flex) in NY.
  • dclivedclive Posts: 35
    Honda of Tyson's Corner has the 2014 Accord EX-L for $25,196 in their emails, before negotiations.

    "All sale prices exclude taxes, tags, processing fee and freight. The Insights, Civic LX, Accord LX and Crv LX 2WD require Honda Finance. There is no special finance rates on the 2014 Accord Hybrid. Active duty military and recent college grad discounts require Honda finance. 0.9% for 36 months unless otherwise specified. Insight does not qualify for special finance. Sale ends 11-30-13. Honda of Tysons Corner is not responsible for human or typographical errors."
  • veersveers Posts: 79
    edited November 2013
    wild guess its I4 not V6. Tack on $790 freight to $25,200 price and you are up to $26,000. Then give em $300 or so for "processing" and you are now at $26,300 giving you a heck of a .... bad deal. I'm a big fan of the easy no haggle internet prices... but only when they are at the bottom of the market. No haggle is terrible when the thing is overpriced and they won't come down.
  • thank you guys for your help...i actually got quote from Hamilton honda and also from davis honda in burlington..davis had $500 less than hamilton on LX..and about $800 on EX..will see if they can come down..i saw lease add from hamilton honda for $149 / 27 month/10k miles..with $0 down and $1000 some fees etc...
  • thank you guys for your help...i actually got quote from Hamilton honda and also from davis honda in burlington..davis had $500 less than hamilton on LX..and about $800 on EX..will see if they can come down..i saw lease add from hamilton honda for $149 / 27 month/10k miles..with $0 down and $1000 some fees etc...
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    Friday and Sat are the 2 best days this month to buy at or get close to your target price.

    Sunday is Dec, 1st you may lose your pricing leverage.

    Good luck post your deals.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    edited November 2013

    Call Yonkers Honda.........Int/Mgr.........Rich, S

    He is telling me he is looking to sell cars this weekend. I dont know what numbers where talking about but Rich is a straight shooter, no... bs type of guy he will give you his bottom line.

    Yonkers is a well run dealership.

    Tell him Brian from Edmunds speaks very highly of him and thats why your calling today.

    See how close to your price he could get to close the deal today.

    There are a couple of forum members looking in NJ you are welcome to give Rich a call. Mention my name it may help you with a little better pricing this weekend.

    New Rochelle Honda is always on my short list here in New york on the last 2 days last day.

    All doc fee's in NY are.............. $75

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • veersveers Posts: 79
    Give Autosport an e-mail, they are the lowest price in NJ from what I can tell. Just make sure to read the fine print and confirm the actual price.
  • Trying to turn in a 2012 LX lease early for a 2013 LX Sport.

    Honda has an offer for the $1999 down & $199/month lease.

    Can someone provide details on MF & RESIDUAL & current selling price Tampa if that makes any difference.

    Current buying wind ? Buyers market?

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 512
    As far as I know, Honda has no early lease turn in thingy going - what you will be doing is trading in your 2012 - and most likely you will be dealing with negative equity being rolled into the new lease - so be careful.

    Nationally advertised leases usually use a selling price that is higher than you could negotiate on your own - the dealer would love you to take that advertised lease with no more negotiation - they will make more profit than they usually do.

    Read through these forums to arm yourself with info and get up to speed.

    Bill G
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    You should have checked back to say "this includes the dest fee"

    But that is sort of the same trickery the crummy dealer pulled on me and made me walk. These guys are insane and liars. Waiting for ISELL to say that it is "our fault" for trying to dig to the lowest price :)
  • I am new to this board and inexperienced when it comes to car shopping. I didn't do my homework, went in to test drive the Accord EX-L (4 cylinder), I enjoyed it, it has all the features I am looking for (rearview camera, bluetooth, etc.), I signed the papers, and came home with the car. I checked the price on and other lease offers on the internet, and I feel like [non-permissible content removed]. I want to learn where I made my mistakes and what I can do to improve in the future.

    Here are my lease terms:

    $3500 down + $339/mo for 36 months for 15,000 miles/year. Includes sentinel package: unlimited oil changes, tire repair/replacement, $150/tire and $35/repair, roadside and trip interruption.

    After signing the papers, I find the agreed upon value of vehicle: $28,120
    Residual value: $14,680 (not including tax)

    I intend to buy this car at the end of my 3 year term, so the total cost would be:
    $3500 + $339/mo*36mo + $14,680*1.07tax = $31,411

    1. is my math correct in terms of estimating the total cost to own this car after 3 years? If so, by how much did I overpay??

    2. states the average price is trending below $1,850 below MSRP. MSRP is $28,785. Should I have originally negotiated the price down to $26,935 and then come up with lease terms?

    3. also states the estimated lease payment of $324/mo for 36 month lease and $0 due at signing. Excludes tax. What is this number based off?? What is the agreed upon value/ residual price when people get lease deals like this?

    4. After 3 years, I will have spent $15,704.. which is 55% of the MSRP. What would be the wise thing to do at the end of my lease, given I am under 45,000 miles? Buy out with residual value or return it?

    5. When there are 6 months left in the lease, is it possible for me to go to another dealership, buy/lease a new car and have them pay for the remainder of 6 months? I guess what I am asking is what is the best possible way for me to recoup some of the $ I wasted in this deal..

    Your feedback is much appreciated!

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,287
    " Waiting for ISELL to say that it is "our fault" for trying to dig to the lowest price"

    Yep, it certainly is! In that person's zeal to not pay one more nickel more than someone else did, they failed if destination charges were included.

    The store I worked at was always careful to make sure the shoppers knew about destination charges and we would warn them that there were stores in the area that wouldn't say anything.

    " Of course, you realize the price I quoted you didn't include freight?"

    Sadly at that point, that sneaky tactic often worked. By this time the "Smart Shoppers" were worn out and exhausted from the process and they would simply cave in and pay.

    Even worse was the fact that quite often the "good store" that spent hours with the customer answering questions, driving cars etc would lose the sale to the store that lied to the shopper.

    I sure don't miss this business.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    edited November 2013

    This is a common practice in your business. Dont take it personal its a big game. When you do not do your homework on pricing and dealerships you get what you deserve. Lied to and most of the time dealers take advantange of you,, If you dont want to play by the rules dont complain. This goes for the salesman and the consumer. The car companies setup the rules and guidelines. Use them to your advantage.

    Here are the common lies from dealers

    Come down will give you a great deal/ will match or beat that price.
    Will remove doc fee charges
    yes dest/ charge was included in this price
    yes we have the vehicle in stock

    Then when you go to dealership
    cant match discussed price
    No vehicle on lot or has a ton of add on's.

    Thats why a honest dealership that you worked for gets the short end of the stick.. Your Industry sucks..

    You guys deserve to be sucked for every penny from guys like me for dealerships bad practices. Its always nice to give back what alot of dealerships dish out

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    edited November 2013

    Post your message in the Accord leasing forum they will help you. What i can tell you is the basic's on leasing.

    Always Negotiate the lowest sale price of vehicle then have dealer apply the right leasing numbers to the deal.

    1- Cap Cost
    2- Money Factor
    3- Residual value.... ETC

    Most folks are buying the 2014 Accord at a little below dealers invoice price to 500 below. You could gauge your deal by your models invoice price.

    Your big Mistake was putting a $3500 upfront payment on your lease. If your Vehicle is totaled in a accident or stolen you will lose your down payment.

    You want to make 36 equal payments and roll everything into that lease including the taxes.

    Whats done is done. You have a great vehicle go and enjoy it and dont look back. I would suggest reading thru this board on buying tips and tricks to getting the lowest price in your area.. It will help in future buys..

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Hey..

    Got almost the same deal here in CT. My OTD was 27200 for 2014 EX-L sedan I4 CVT. Looks like the east and west coast are pretty evenly matched at this stage!

    I had done a ton of research and a couple of my friends benefitted from it since they wanted to buy Accords to and ended up getting the same deal. I got a nice kickback from the dealer. If anyone in and around CT interested, PM me and I can share the details!
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    edited November 2013
    Good job on your purchase. What were your dealers doc fee charge?

    Enjoy your new accord.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • veersveers Posts: 79
    meh... liars always gonna find a way to lie. Remember that one of the key metrics for car salesmen is what % if test drives lead to a sale. So when you test drive, realize the price was a lie, and then walk, the end up being the ones holding the bag. Food for thought.

    What I find amazing in this process is the obsession with the fraudulent invoice price of $28,543 ($28,043 after flex cash). lol such bs since we know there is around $1,000 holdback plus potentially massive bonuses from Honda for sales targets. Dealer after dealer cites this price to me, and treats it like the holy grail of pricing. When I tell that that I think their true cost after flex is $26,800 and that they could sell to me for $27,300 and make a tidy profit, 80% of them recoil and tell me that the price is IMPOSSIBLE, and that no one else will give that price since "we all pay Honda the same price for the car and no dealer will LOSE money on the sale." bs bs bs bs.

    Thankfully I'm finding the MD market a lot better than tri-state. A firm $27,500, a possible $27,250, and a possible under $27,000 (hard to believe). Would like to tie this up this week... we will see. Would be great to send a smarmy e-mail to the dealers telling me I will never get under $28,000 pointing out that useless overpriced stone age shops have no future in the open information internet age.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    edited December 2013
    Honda's dealer hold back is 2% of base MSRP. Not Including dest charge of $790..

    Hold backs will range from 400's on the lower models to about 700 on the top of line accords. Plus dealer incentives, manufacturer to dealer cash, hush money, sales incentives all things we have no clear cut proof how much they are getting. And on top of that this so called dealers invoice price is probably padded for dealerships to make a few more bucks.

    i guess its safe to say you did not buy a car today.

    You should hit your mark this month.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • veersveers Posts: 79
    You figure they sold to hogan at $27k and said they are making minimal profit, so put real cost at $26.8 or so.

    Super busy and the dealerships I wanted to do business with ran out of flex cash. I'm going to try to get the same prices they offered minus the $500 flex cash this week. We will see how that one goes. Obv they wanted me to buy today, so they claimed they "adjusted" the prices down $500 to account for no flex cash. Sounds like bs, their margin should be the same pre flex and post flex -500 $.


    There is no PM here from what I can tell. on the Driveaccord forum you said you got 24,900 + 399 dealer fee = 25,300 on an EX-L or $1350 under invoice. That is a great deal. If you pm me the dealership and salesman names on driveaccord, I will reach out and see if they will do $27,200 on a V6 which is also $1350 under invoice. If they will, and my sub $27k offer doesn't pan out, I would pull the trigger at that price, and you should get a referral fee. Not sure they will agree to go that deep though on a V6 though.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,287
    So, instead of trying to micro analyze this to death why don't you simply make them a COMMITTED offer of what you think the car is worth to YOU?

    Tell them that you WILL make that one offer and that if accepted, you WILL buy it and drive it home today?

    Instead of worrying about how much evil profit they just might be making, just offer what you are willing to pay!

    Tell then that it's a take it or leave it offer...PERIOD!

    If they accept it, you should be happy. If the decline, you'll know you didn't offer enough and you can go from store to store making that same offer.

    It really doesn't have to be that difficult!
  • Brian and Veers,

    My offer was structured this way. Cost 24900 (tax was on 25500 because I got 500 off via Honda financing cash and 100$ visa gift card) + 399 dealer fee + 6.35% CT sales tax + 188 registration

    Veers, I PM'ed you on driveaccord for dealer name and my information so you can try your luck on a V6.
  • It looks like the amount you put down brought down the residual on your car. The Honda LX is 13891. Yours for the top of the line is14681. 15000 miles a year will cost more monthly than 12000 miles. You have to remember that if you decide not to buy your car you can use your leased car as equity. Turning it in early will cause you to pay more for your lease again. Dealers don't have to pay tax when purchasing a leased car. You say you are planning to buy the car, so if it's a good car you can do so, and if not turn it in and that will be to your advantage. The oil changes keep your car in top condition so take advantage of that. The oil changes on the Honda cost more because they need to use a certain type. That is worth something.
    True Car is a business and gets a referral, so take that into consideration. It is hard to figure costs from a board when the geographic location is a determining factor in that. There is a Honda dealer near me in Woodland Hills CA that will add on to the lease. I just read about two guys that had that happen to on YELP. I always think I shouldn't go in alone because they will take advantage of a woman walking in alone. If you feel you paid a little more, they certainly didn't take your life savings. Enjoy your car and remember that you bought a good product. I think it's hard for a dealer when some people basically want a car for free. I wish it was a set price. I read this article in the NY Times that talks about car buying. ut-leasing-a-car/?_r=0
  • Hello, anyone know how much off invoice can people get today for a 2013 Honda Civic Ex since it is one month from 2014?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,681
    edited December 2013
    Depending on your area with supply and demand of 2014's on dealers lots your target price to buy or lease should be

    1800 to 3000 below invoice plus any incentives and rebates that apply to you on the 2013.

    what state are you looking to buy..

    Remember Jan,1 st 2014 your 2013 model is considered 1 year old model. If your car is totaled or stolen you need to Re-coupe the depreciation value of a 1 yr civic. Not to mention your INS co. will take the deductible off the top of the vehicle price before sending out the check. Keep that in mind when negotiating price on a 2013... Good luck

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • Hiker, thanks for the reply. I am young in my 20s and learned from my mistake. I am locked in for 3 years and I don't plan on turning it in early. It is a good product and I enjoy driving it.

    The only thing that can help me now is to learn more about my options at the end of 3 year lease. Can you please elaborate on "if you decide not to buy your car you can use your leased car as equity"? What steps should I take to find out the true value and by how much over/under it is from residual value? Lets say I find out the car is worth $16,000, or about $1,500 more than residual value, how can I use this towards my next lease or purchase?

  • veersveers Posts: 79
    Isell, you greatly understate the complexity and multitude of factors involved in getting a great deal on a new car. You say just figure out what the car is worth to you, and take that number in take it or leave it fashion to dealership after dealership until one accepts.

    This neglects the fundamental economic tension in the new car buying market. Dealers get the car from the manufacturer at a certain cost. Its not the joke "invoice" price, but rather a much lower true price reflecting all kickbacks. On the other side there is me, the consumer. The dealership has no idea of what the car is actually worth to me. That depends on my utility preferences, my time horizon, my liquidity situation, etc... To the extent my value on the car exceeds their true cost, there is a deal to be made. Both sides will try to get the better side of the deal. To wit, the dealer would like me to pay what the car is worth to me (your suggested solution!). I would like to get the car at the minimum price the dealership will sell it for, which is their true cost + some minimal profit margin. I'm ignoring some dynamic pricing and market factors for the sake of simplicity. The challenge here is that neither side knows the true numbers for the other side!

    Thus, my goal is to figure out the lowest price a dealer will sell the car to me for. I'd also like to know how much that will go down if I wait a few weeks. So, instead of going around like Bobst with a pre-written out check (which might well lead to overpaying!), I prefer to reach out to dealers, get their "best" price, and try to negotiate them down to their true best price. This is complicated because different salesmen at the dealer can often push through a different bottom line price, and the fact that the price changes over time.

    In my case, I feel confident that $27 flat would be a great price (though I'd like to see any applicable December incentives first). I will be shopping this price to the most competitive dealers over the next week and see if any of them bite, though I must say that most of them are still whining that they will lose money at that price (Lies!). If I fail to push through $27 flat by the end of the month, I will need to reassess.
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