I was joking about the Kia...my point is this...if you can get any car for up to $2000 below invoice is that not a great deal? Not counting the GM's, Fords, Mopar's, those type's of cars I wouldn't pay $2000 below invoice...more like $5000 and I still wouldn't buy them...I just don't think they compete with Honda & Toyota! What other car in the Accord's class are you going to get for $2000 below invoice? I sure would like to know...the only other car that competes with accord in the camry..the rest are just not good cars...maybe that is why the accord has been on the top 10 cars list for 18 years...VW...don't thing so...Nissan...nope... If for nothing else...please go out strike a deal for a car that is in the accords class, same option and all...come back and post your price....but we may be waiting a while....and one last note....you say if you can make a great deal right? What is the deal you are waiting for?
I am looking to buy an 2005 LX/EX Accord. This is my first new-car purchase and i have a few questions which i need help on.
1. What is the best way to get quotes from multiple dealers. 2. I was at a Honda dealer yesterdat and they offered me $22000 on a EX with leather + TTL. 3. While negotiating ,how do i know what is a reasonable offer to make to the dealer so that he accepts it .I mean i dont want to quote a stupid price which is way too low.
The deal I'm waiting for is $22,750 or less OTD for the EX-L auto.
The "below invoice" thing is almost meaningless to me - it is only a reference point, just like the MSRP. It has little to do with what the dealer ultimately pays for the car, an nothing to do with what I'm willing to pay for it.
I'm not arguing with you on the merits of the Accord - I obviously agree with you since I'm spending time on this forum. However, there's a limit to what I'm willing to pay this late in the model cycle. It sounds like your limit is higher than mine, which is fine.
The competitors you disparage have their positives and negatives, some objective and some subjective.... just like Honda. If this wasn't the case, there wouldn't be another brand on the road.
enchilada, you said "The deal I'm waiting for is $22,750 or less OTD for the EX-L 'auto. " could you eloborate what price you are expecting from dealer before taxes/registration/doc fee etc.. looks like if you get 21400+5% tax,+ 200 doc fee+ $80 for registration then makes your number which looks liuke a possible deal..
it sounds like no one is trying to buy a V6 EX here, most people are buying the 4-cyl one, but i would like to know if this is a good price? the invoice for this car is 24,158$ and i got OTD 24500$
I also got a quote for the V6 LX for OTD 21,617$ and invoice is 21,552$
Well, I'm assuming a price of around $21,200 + 6.25% + $225 in licensing/doc/whatever.... but I really don't care how it's broken out as the final price is the only thing that interests me.
If you accept that the marketing money/FTD incentives are $750 (as is listed on edmunds) and agree with the reported figure of a 3% dealer holdback on the accords, then your figure of $21,200 is $20 below cost. It may prove hard to get that from a dealer unless they think they need the sale to meet the sales goal for the factory money.
Again, find the invoice of the Accord model you want, Subtract 3% holdback and then subtract the $750 FTD money. That is your baseline number (without TTL). Most likely no one is going to sell you the car for that. If you get anywhere close to that number you got a good deal. Don't get ripped off with doc fees, extras, ext. warranties, financing, etc. and go enjoy your new car. Buying a new car should be a somewhat enjoyable/exciting...don't make it harder than it has to be by stressing out over a couple hundred dollars and trying to beat every deal listed on this forum. Especially given the different ways different people list OTD v. +TTL, varying tax rates, doc fees, etc.
Are you serious about OTD (price+TTL) of $17,800 for an LX Accord AT? You must have low or no taxes. I've been reading here for a month and that's by far the lowest price I've seen, OTD or not. I'm trying to work a deal in Chicago for less than $17.8K PLUS TTL. Please post the details. I'm sure everyone's interested.
"*$500 best price coupon. Offer expires two weeks after printing. Purchaser must present $500 coupon with competitors signed sales agreement with vehicle serial number. MUST PRESENT COUPON AT TIME OF SALE. Offer only valid on certain models. "
How the hack you can get the signed sales agreement with vehicle serial number IF YOU ARE NOT buying the car at that dealer? nice trick?
Has anyone recently purchased an 05 Automatic LX in California's Central Valley? I am purchasing in a couple weeks and wondering where to get the best deal. Also, roughly how much do tax and license fees cost?
I paid $17,150+ fees which came to $18,800 out the door.
Autowest, Roseville. Get quotes from fairfield, vacaville. Check carsdirect com for starting price. Carmichael Honda, which is H&A, were not evenclose, and wasted my time.
I was n the market for EX, but Internet manager emailed that they were offering $2K under invoice for last weekend in June. He claimed they were overstocked on LX's. He said only 3 of us took him up on the offer.
I bought an EX V6 4dr sedan 5 spd AT with leather (no NAV) for $23,600 in May. I also recently got a quote on the same trim for $23,100. Prices included detination but not TTL.
#8774 of 8779 Re: Honda clearence update (no fire, all smoke) [enchilada] by nash123 Jul 18, 2005 (10:14 am)
Replying to: enchilada (Jul 18, 2005 9:49 am)
enchilada,
I just called American Honda Finance to complain about it. They said I need to talk to the dealers. But then when I pushed them, they said they are the ones who actually set the APRs and campaigns. I asked for a manager to complain about this further but they gave me an address to write a letter to. My whole deal is that they advertise something that will be good until 9/6, WITHOUT a disclaimer saying that AHF can retract this offer. And they pulled it anyways. The rep said they can pull an offer anytime they want without any disclaimers and advance warning.
Paid 20.4K + TTL. Loss of special APR does suck. I was told best rates would be between 5-6% from Honda. Mentioning the current holdback helped. Had to go to two dealers. First dealer wouldn't go below 21K and tried to tell me that inventory was very limited. Don't believe it if they try that trick. Availability of 05s is good. If you can wait a month should be able to get really good bargains on 05s.
That is a good deal for the 2005 LX Auto for $17,800 OTD. I thought my deal at $18,500 OTD ($17,580 + TTL) was good but yours is even nicer. What's the sales tax in Georgia?
Details of the purchase are in Post # 8743... and you're right about no taxes. For certain active duty military, Tennessee doesn't charge sales tax. Had they charged the typical 6%, the OTD would've been about $18,500 ($700 more).
$17.8K with Illinois' 9% sales tax will be really tough to get, but who knows. I'd start with the Honda dealer who has about 50+ LXs on the lot. Regardless of market, that's a lot of cars to move in a month.
One other recent poster had a similar price... Post #8799. I think prices in both posts are excellent ones to cite when in negotiations. Good luck!
So how much were your OTD price? cuz dealers are trying to rip me off
i got OTD of 24500, and 24700 so far
OK GUYS! let's post the Out Of Door price only in this forums, so this way we know how much exactly how much you pay, cuz i am sick and tire of dealer trying to pay so much little games
Actually posting OTD price wouldn't be helpful because the taxes in different states differ quite a bit. Better to post price before all the applicable taxes?
All, In connection with the many understandable complaints about the dropping of the APR specials and the non-reintroduction under the 'Honda Clearance' event, I found out one bit of info, which should have otherwise been obvious: Honda dropped its financing deals when interest rates went up. The end of the program was that simple - rates went up a quarter. I guess Honda could have raised their rates a quarter (or the appropriate relative amount), but they didn't. I agree with another poster - look to a local credit union, where you can usually get as good a deal or better than a dealer. Plus, once you have such a deal lined up, you can walk into the dealer and have them try to meet or beat your financing.
I totally disagree with your OTD request....as mentioned earlier, taxes, doc fees, and DMV fees vary a very big margin throughout the country.... Bottom line...only post the cost of the vehicle....and no need to separate the cost of the vehicle and then say + destination....for the life of me I cannot figure out why people post a price and then say add destination....everyone pays the same for destination...so why try and separate it... just post the price of the car...very simple right?
Love my 05 Honda Accord LX AT...only thing I don't like about it is the way you have to reach underneath the steering wheel to adjust the wheel height and telescoping feature...it's kind of a bad design...I much prefer my hubby's car which has a button on the top of the column....but I can live with that because the car is great! It's a 4 banger, but I found out how good and smooth that engine is the other day on the highway....looked down to see I was doing almost 90 and didn't even realize it...oops! Very smooth acceleration, so smooth, you don't realize the momentum it's gathering!
I bought mine from Castle Honda whose price was 17734 (include dest) + 55.39 doc fee + 1467.62 (IL tax)+148.42 (cook county tax)+143.00(for new plates) for a total of 19548.43 OTD.
It does suck to live in chicago with the 9% tax....and the cook county tax. You can't avoid it even if you buy in Indiana...dealers will calculate tax on where the car is going to be registered, even the county tax
I had one dealer in Highland Park that tried to use the "we will save you money by not charging you the county tax because we are not in cook county" . Fat chance, once the car is registered to the city and county you WILL get a bill. Besides the savings is $148.00 off your price. That dealer was still way higher then others..so there was no savings.
I got 2.9 financing for 48 months. F&I was very helpful. Asked me up front what I wanted if anything. I said no ext warrenty, no undercoating, no backend adds. He said great, that meant he could skip his whole "spheal" about that. We were in and out of the F&I office in 15 minutes. "I personally think he just was tired and wanted to go home".
I think seeing the F&I guy right before closing was actually a smart thing to do
I thought Castle Honda gave a fair price, the people were nice and the transaction was smooth. Overall a pleasant experience. Upside is that the internet manager answers every call that rings (the man is like a machine), downside is that he does this also when you are with him at his desk. ( he did apologize and routed most of the calls to associates when his phone kept ringing off the hook).
They made money and I got a "fair" deal...that's all I ever wanted.
I totally disagree with your OTD request....as mentioned earlier, taxes, doc fees, and DMV fees vary a very big margin throughout the country.... Bottom line...only post the cost of the vehicle....and no need to separate the cost of the vehicle and then say + destination....for the life of me I cannot figure out why people post a price and then say add destination....everyone pays the same for destination...so why try and separate it... just post the price of the car...very simple right?
I agree that OTD is not as relevant because TTL (tax, title and license) will vary from state to state or even from county to county. However, I believe that the most useful information that posters in this forum can post for comparison purposes is the price of the car before TTL, but including all these other "garbage" fees such as documentation fee, advertising fee, internet fee, etc. I call them "garbage" fees because dealers keep most if not all of them (unlike TTL) and they use these fees, which could add up to hundreds of dollars (I heard of $400-$500 documentation fees) to increase the selling price of the cars. In order to get a customer in the door (where their shark salesmen can finish up the job) they will quote their prices conveniently missing all these "garbage" fees to make their quotes seem lower than the competition. And once you're there... you get the picture.
IMO, asking for quotes before TTL, but including destination and all these "other fees" is the only way we can really compare prices on an apples-to-apples basis (then just ask the dealer what the TTL in your area is). Therefore, I believe this is also the most helpful way to post prices in this forum. It was for me.
You did the right thing to buy at the time that you did. No more financing from Honda. I am trying to decide what to do (that is a lot of cash to come up with) and I am kicking myself thinking that the deal would go until Sept like they said on the website.
I again will disagree with you because doc fees vary by state and county...some states put a limit on how much they can charge on doc fees...and I have yet to see any Honda dealer charge a internet fee, or advertising fee, and if they do...I would drop them in a heartbeat...bottom line is this...most dealers in your area are going to charge about the same doc fees...in fact I bet they are all within a $100 bucks of each other...why not just ask the dealer you are working with what the doc fees are...use that as a base for the other dealers...here in florida most dealers fees range from 299.00 to 599.00 depending on the type of (Luxury line usally up to the 599.00 range) vehicle...yep...you read that right...big $$$....that is because there is no limit in Florida for these fees.... What I do is get the internet person to email me all the fees listed right on down to the final price....battery fee, tire fee, etc...and if they are not willing to do that then expand your search area around where you live...no need to get all bend out of shape with one dealer...if they want your business they won't screw with you... I went over 200 miles to get my car and saved $1300 to boot...straight forward deal...no b.s. Good Luck...
Maybe we're saying the same thing in a different way. I was responding to the poster that said that OTD price is the best way to compare prices in this forum and to your reply that it is not because TTL is different for different locations and that therefore, one should post the price of the car including destination.
My point was that many times when quoting through the phone or through the internet, dealers will not include these junk fees in their price quote, giving a distorted picture of what the car will actually cost. And since this is the quote people receives (without the junk fees that will be added later when they get to the dealer), that's the quote they would normally post in this forum. My point was that to me the easiest way to compare prices was to get prices including all these fees, but just before TTL since this will be different for each location. Case in point: you mention FL charges $299-$599 for documentation fee. I bet dealers do not include this figure when giving out quotes to make their numbers seem lower than it really is. And yes, if you read through this forum you will occasionally hear people say that dealers wanted to charge them internet and advertising fee.
BTW, I already purchased my EX-4 AT last May and am only posting to try to help other readers that may find this helpful. So, I will stick to my point that the best way to compare car prices on an apples-to-apples basis is to get the prices before TTL, but including junk fees. Therefore, again IMO this is how prices should be mentioned on this forum to maximize benefit to other readers trying to compare prices.
One comment on an internet fee - I had one dealer in NJ (Honda of Essex) quote me an internet fee. Not that the fee could be justified, but he isn't even an internet manager. His sales price was also thousands more than two other dealers, but when the time comes to negotiate, I would laugh if they tried to fight on that fee, right before walking out the door.
Some dealers are adding sticker-type pinstripes to the cars immediately when they roll off the truck. They try to tack on an additional $199 for this. If you like them, fine..... but I happen not to want them, no matter the price, even "free." I had to reject a car because of this.
I didn't know your zip code so I had to enter mine, which you can easily change in the Zip Code Box. In the Engine box, the 4th selection, under the 4-cylinders, is for V6s. You can then select leather and what other features you have in the options box just under the Drive, Mileage and Zip Code boxes
The Accord would be listed as an EX V6 Sedan or Coupe....once you have selected that model another screen should appear where you can check the box that says leather...this is for KBB...the EX V6 Sedan only comes in leather...the 4 cyl has either cloth or leather therefore it will list EX and EX-L.... Hope this helps...
Enchilda I got an offer today for $22,520.00 OTD. I'm real close to buying. If I'm not mistaken you and I were looking for the same car or maybe you wanted the Navi. Regardless if you are looking to buy email me and I will give you the dealer info. UFCRULES1@AOL.COM
The answer is fairly simple...the internet guy will usually provide you with two numbers...the price of the car and the OTD price...if you want more info then just ask them to break the whole thing down.... With posters on here....you are giving people the wrong number when you are posting the price of the car plus all of the junk fees...just post the price of the car...the other fees do not factor in because not all regions are the same... The junk fees they pay in California are not the same we pay here in Florida... If I post the price of the car I bought it is going to be for the car only...some people like to post the price of the car + dest. which I can't figure out...everyone pays the same for the dest. fee...The junk fees you are referring to are by region...and like I said in my last post...if you ask the dealer to breakdown the price then you have a base to work off of...I don't care what junk fees someone pays in California when I live in Florida...what I care about is what they paid for their car...plus any options... Now if you want to place a post on here and breakdown the entire deal then that is something different...allot of people do that and it is helpful if you live in that part of the country....but again, if I don't live there all I look at is the price of the car itself the rest of the fees don't apply to me... Maybe they should put the same format form above the posting box like they do for the "Real World Trade-In Values" forum...that way you make it universal...everyone posts the entire numbers to their deals and then the rest of us can look at the numbers that would apply to us...in your case, if the poster is from your region then those junk fees would be of interest to you...and the same would go for me...that way the numbers that interest us are there for the viewing.... IMO of course...
Go to KBB and select used cars... You should have the choice of: Private Party Sell, Trade-In, or Retail...select which ever applies in this case.... Then select the year... Then select the make...this case Honda... Then select the model...EX V6 Sedan or Coupe When the next screen comes up it should ask you the following:
Auto Trans or Manuel Mileage Then their should be allot of boxes that have options listed next to them... Go through and check the boxes that apply...in this case check leather... Then select the condition of the car..or if your just looking for the retail price it should provide it..
After selecting the make/model that you want, it will lead you to another screen, which will ask for your zip code and then you go to another couple of screens asking which features, colors, etc. that you want. Then you'll get a price which you can then save after you sign up with carsdirect.com. There's no charge. To compare with 2004 Hondas you'll need to either go back to KBB or Edmunds.
If you want to get dealer quotes on a new Honda, go to the Locate a Dealer section of the Honda web-site:
Thanks for saying the EX V6 only comes in leather. That's the missing piece that didn't make sense!
KBB says that there is a $433 price difference between a 2005 and a 2004. That looks like about what the dealer's website says about the car they have listed. Is that "real world"? Any hints on what a 2004 Accord EXL V6 automatic with 9,039 miles should go for?
I am in the same city as you. Can you share what and where you ended up purchasing?
Comments
What other car in the Accord's class are you going to get for $2000 below invoice?
I sure would like to know...the only other car that competes with accord in the camry..the rest are just not good cars...maybe that is why the accord has been on the top 10 cars list for 18 years...VW...don't thing so...Nissan...nope...
If for nothing else...please go out strike a deal for a car that is in the accords class, same option and all...come back and post your price....but we may be waiting a while....and one last note....you say if you can make a great deal right?
What is the deal you are waiting for?
1. What is the best way to get quotes from multiple dealers.
2. I was at a Honda dealer yesterdat and they offered me $22000 on a EX with leather + TTL.
3. While negotiating ,how do i know what is a reasonable offer to make to the dealer so that he accepts it .I mean i dont want to quote a stupid price which is way too low.
Phil
The deal I'm waiting for is $22,750 or less OTD for the EX-L auto.
The "below invoice" thing is almost meaningless to me - it is only a reference point, just like the MSRP. It has little to do with what the dealer ultimately pays for the car, an nothing to do with what I'm willing to pay for it.
I'm not arguing with you on the merits of the Accord - I obviously agree with you since I'm spending time on this forum. However, there's a limit to what I'm willing to pay this late in the model cycle. It sounds like your limit is higher than mine, which is fine.
The competitors you disparage have their positives and negatives, some objective and some subjective.... just like Honda. If this wasn't the case, there wouldn't be another brand on the road.
please correct me if anything doesn't make sense
I also got a quote for the V6 LX for OTD 21,617$ and invoice is 21,552$
$21,086 (w/DEST) for the ...
2005 Honda Accord 4 cyl. PZEV** AT EX-L Sedan!!!
**NOTE: All California Honda 4 cyl. = PZEV (Partial Zero Emission Vehicles) certified
The next dealer that contacted me (Anderson Honda) met that price + LOW PRICE GUARANTEE = $100 less, ...
... so my Email QUOTE starting price was $20,986 (w/DEST, ... plus = CA tax, DMV, Tire & Doc fee)
Final tally Anderson Honda in Palo Alto:
Price: .........$20,986.00 ($1,800 below INV)
Tire Fee: ..............$8.75
Doc. Fee: ..........$45.00
8.5% tax: ......$1,735.06
DMV (Est):.......$187.00
======================
TOTAL: ..$22,961.81 OTD
My experience @ Anderson Honda of Palo Alto was really a No hassle or haggle - they were all were very professional, knowledgeable and friendly!!!
Hopefully, you can do better!
Phil
Pic's of my 2005 Honda Accord 4 cyl. AT EXL PZEV Sedan
My Epinions.com 2005 Honda Accord Review
Again, find the invoice of the Accord model you want, Subtract 3% holdback and then subtract the $750 FTD money. That is your baseline number (without TTL). Most likely no one is going to sell you the car for that. If you get anywhere close to that number you got a good deal. Don't get ripped off with doc fees, extras, ext. warranties, financing, etc. and go enjoy your new car. Buying a new car should be a somewhat enjoyable/exciting...don't make it harder than it has to be by stressing out over a couple hundred dollars and trying to beat every deal listed on this forum. Especially given the different ways different people list OTD v. +TTL, varying tax rates, doc fees, etc.
Just my 2 cents.
You must have low or no taxes. I've been reading here for a month and that's by far the lowest price I've seen, OTD or not. I'm trying to work a deal in Chicago for less than $17.8K PLUS TTL. Please post the details. I'm sure everyone's interested.
"*$500 best price coupon. Offer expires two weeks after printing. Purchaser must present $500 coupon with competitors signed sales agreement with vehicle serial number. MUST PRESENT COUPON AT TIME OF SALE. Offer only valid on certain models. "
How the hack you can get the signed sales agreement with vehicle serial number IF YOU ARE NOT buying the car at that dealer? nice trick?
http://www.andersonhonda.net/en_US/
Autowest, Roseville. Get quotes from fairfield, vacaville. Check carsdirect com for starting price. Carmichael Honda, which is H&A, were not evenclose, and wasted my time.
I was n the market for EX, but Internet manager emailed that they were offering $2K under invoice for last weekend in June. He claimed they were overstocked on LX's. He said only 3 of us took him up on the offer.
I am working on a deal in Chicago too and the lowest I got for an LX MT is $17,000.00 + TTL which makes sense (AT is around $800 more). 9% tax sucks.
Let me know if you get anything better.
Mike
[enchilada] by nash123 Jul 18, 2005 (10:14 am)
Replying to: enchilada (Jul 18, 2005 9:49 am)
enchilada,
I just called American Honda Finance to complain about it. They said I
need to talk to the dealers. But then when I pushed them, they said they
are the ones who actually set the APRs and campaigns. I asked for a
manager to complain about this further but they gave me an address to write a
letter to. My whole deal is that they advertise something that will be
good until 9/6, WITHOUT a disclaimer saying that AHF can retract this
offer. And they pulled it anyways. The rep said they can pull an offer
anytime they want without any disclaimers and advance warning.
Details of the purchase are in Post # 8743... and you're right about no taxes. For certain active duty military, Tennessee doesn't charge sales tax. Had they charged the typical 6%, the OTD would've been about $18,500 ($700 more).
$17.8K with Illinois' 9% sales tax will be really tough to get, but who knows. I'd start with the Honda dealer who has about 50+ LXs on the lot. Regardless of market, that's a lot of cars to move in a month.
One other recent poster had a similar price... Post #8799. I think prices in both posts are excellent ones to cite when in negotiations. Good luck!
Cheers, MG
i got OTD of 24500, and 24700 so far
OK GUYS! let's post the Out Of Door price only in this forums, so this way we know how much exactly how much you pay, cuz i am sick and tire of dealer trying to pay so much little games
In connection with the many understandable complaints about the dropping of the APR specials and the non-reintroduction under the 'Honda Clearance' event, I found out one bit of info, which should have otherwise been obvious: Honda dropped its financing deals when interest rates went up. The end of the program was that simple - rates went up a quarter. I guess Honda could have raised their rates a quarter (or the appropriate relative amount), but they didn't. I agree with another poster - look to a local credit union, where you can usually get as good a deal or better than a dealer. Plus, once you have such a deal lined up, you can walk into the dealer and have them try to meet or beat your financing.
Bottom line...only post the cost of the vehicle....and no need to separate the cost of the vehicle and then say + destination....for the life of me I cannot figure out why people post a price and then say add destination....everyone pays the same for destination...so why try and separate it...
just post the price of the car...very simple right?
Love my 05 Honda Accord LX AT...only thing I don't like about it is the way you have to reach underneath the steering wheel to adjust the wheel height and telescoping feature...it's kind of a bad design...I much prefer my hubby's car which has a button on the top of the column....but I can live with that because the car is great! It's a 4 banger, but I found out how good and smooth that engine is the other day on the highway....looked down to see I was doing almost 90 and didn't even realize it...oops! Very smooth acceleration, so smooth, you don't realize the momentum it's gathering!
I bought mine from Castle Honda whose price was 17734 (include dest) + 55.39 doc fee + 1467.62 (IL tax)+148.42 (cook county tax)+143.00(for new plates) for a total of 19548.43 OTD.
It does suck to live in chicago with the 9% tax....and the cook county tax. You can't avoid it even if you buy in Indiana...dealers will calculate tax on where the car is going to be registered, even the county tax
I had one dealer in Highland Park that tried to use the "we will save you money by not charging you the county tax because we are not in cook county" . Fat chance, once the car is registered to the city and county you WILL get a bill. Besides the savings is $148.00 off your price. That dealer was still way higher then others..so there was no savings.
I got 2.9 financing for 48 months. F&I was very helpful. Asked me up front what I wanted if anything. I said no ext warrenty, no undercoating, no backend adds. He said great, that meant he could skip his whole "spheal" about that. We were in and out of the F&I office in 15 minutes. "I personally think he just was tired and wanted to go home".
I think seeing the F&I guy right before closing was actually a smart thing to do
I thought Castle Honda gave a fair price, the people were nice and the transaction was smooth. Overall a pleasant experience. Upside is that the internet manager answers every call that rings (the man is like a machine), downside is that he does this also when you are with him at his desk. ( he did apologize and routed most of the calls to associates when his phone kept ringing off the hook).
They made money and I got a "fair" deal...that's all I ever wanted.
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When I put fair in "'s it's because I meant really it was fair for both parties and I didn't want people to think I was being cheeky!
Sorry, fair actually was meant as a compliment!
I agree that OTD is not as relevant because TTL (tax, title and license) will vary from state to state or even from county to county. However, I believe that the most useful information that posters in this forum can post for comparison purposes is the price of the car before TTL, but including all these other "garbage" fees such as documentation fee, advertising fee, internet fee, etc. I call them "garbage" fees because dealers keep most if not all of them (unlike TTL) and they use these fees, which could add up to hundreds of dollars (I heard of $400-$500 documentation fees) to increase the selling price of the cars. In order to get a customer in the door (where their shark salesmen can finish up the job) they will quote their prices conveniently missing all these "garbage" fees to make their quotes seem lower than the competition. And once you're there... you get the picture.
IMO, asking for quotes before TTL, but including destination and all these "other fees" is the only way we can really compare prices on an apples-to-apples basis (then just ask the dealer what the TTL in your area is). Therefore, I believe this is also the most helpful way to post prices in this forum. It was for me.
You did the right thing to buy at the time that you did. No more financing from Honda. I am trying to decide what to do (that is a lot of cash to come up with) and I am kicking myself thinking that the deal would go until Sept like they said on the website.
Glad you are happy with your ride.
I again will disagree with you because doc fees vary by state and county...some states put a limit on how much they can charge on doc fees...and I have yet to see any Honda dealer charge a internet fee, or advertising fee, and if they do...I would drop them in a heartbeat...bottom line is this...most dealers in your area are going to charge about the same doc fees...in fact I bet they are all within a $100 bucks of each other...why not just ask the dealer you are working with what the doc fees are...use that as a base for the other dealers...here in florida most dealers fees range from 299.00 to 599.00 depending on the type of (Luxury line usally up to the 599.00 range) vehicle...yep...you read that right...big $$$....that is because there is no limit in Florida for these fees....
What I do is get the internet person to email me all the fees listed right on down to the final price....battery fee, tire fee, etc...and if they are not willing to do that then expand your search area around where you live...no need to get all bend out of shape with one dealer...if they want your business they won't screw with you...
I went over 200 miles to get my car and saved $1300 to boot...straight forward deal...no b.s.
Good Luck...
Maybe we're saying the same thing in a different way. I was responding to the poster that said that OTD price is the best way to compare prices in this forum and to your reply that it is not because TTL is different for different locations and that therefore, one should post the price of the car including destination.
My point was that many times when quoting through the phone or through the internet, dealers will not include these junk fees in their price quote, giving a distorted picture of what the car will actually cost. And since this is the quote people receives (without the junk fees that will be added later when they get to the dealer), that's the quote they would normally post in this forum. My point was that to me the easiest way to compare prices was to get prices including all these fees, but just before TTL since this will be different for each location. Case in point: you mention FL charges $299-$599 for documentation fee. I bet dealers do not include this figure when giving out quotes to make their numbers seem lower than it really is. And yes, if you read through this forum you will occasionally hear people say that dealers wanted to charge them internet and advertising fee.
BTW, I already purchased my EX-4 AT last May and am only posting to try to help other readers that may find this helpful. So, I will stick to my point that the best way to compare car prices on an apples-to-apples basis is to get the prices before TTL, but including junk fees. Therefore, again IMO this is how prices should be mentioned on this forum to maximize benefit to other readers trying to compare prices.
They list the EX 4 cylinder with leather.
I'm trying to find what I should offer for an 2004 EXL automatic V6 with 9,039 miles.
Can anyone give me some guidance?
Thanks,
S
Here's a link to KBB.
http://kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.li?kbb.NC;;NC119;;&28210;+t&721&2002;Honda;Accord%20EX%20Se- - dan%204D
I didn't know your zip code so I had to enter mine, which you can easily change in the Zip Code Box. In the Engine box, the 4th selection, under the 4-cylinders, is for V6s. You can then select leather and what other features you have in the options box just under the Drive, Mileage and Zip Code boxes
Hope this helps.
The Accord would be listed as an EX V6 Sedan or Coupe....once you have selected that model another screen should appear where you can check the box that says leather...this is for KBB...the EX V6 Sedan only comes in leather...the 4 cyl has either cloth or leather therefore it will list EX and EX-L....
Hope this helps...
I'm trying to find out what the 2005 Accord EXL coupe automatic V6 costs.
To compare with a 2004.
I tried both KBB and Edmunds.
They have a listing for a leather 4 cylinder but not the V6.
Am I missing a step?
Thanks,
S
I am seriously looking for an Accord EX 4cyl automatic.
Could you share where you are located?
Thanks,
S
The answer is fairly simple...the internet guy will usually provide you with two numbers...the price of the car and the OTD price...if you want more info then just ask them to break the whole thing down....
With posters on here....you are giving people the wrong number when you are posting the price of the car plus all of the junk fees...just post the price of the car...the other fees do not factor in because not all regions are the same...
The junk fees they pay in California are not the same we pay here in Florida...
If I post the price of the car I bought it is going to be for the car only...some people like to post the price of the car + dest. which I can't figure out...everyone pays the same for the dest. fee...The junk fees you are referring to are by region...and like I said in my last post...if you ask the dealer to breakdown the price then you have a base to work off of...I don't care what junk fees someone pays in California when I live in Florida...what I care about is what they paid for their car...plus any options...
Now if you want to place a post on here and breakdown the entire deal then that is something different...allot of people do that and it is helpful if you live in that part of the country....but again, if I don't live there all I look at is the price of the car itself the rest of the fees don't apply to me...
Maybe they should put the same format form above the posting box like they do for the "Real World Trade-In Values" forum...that way you make it universal...everyone posts the entire numbers to their deals and then the rest of us can look at the numbers that would apply to us...in your case, if the poster is from your region then those junk fees would be of interest to you...and the same would go for me...that way the numbers that interest us are there for the viewing....
IMO of course...
Go to KBB and select used cars...
You should have the choice of: Private Party Sell, Trade-In, or Retail...select which ever applies in this case....
Then select the year...
Then select the make...this case Honda...
Then select the model...EX V6 Sedan or Coupe
When the next screen comes up it should ask you the following:
Auto Trans or Manuel
Mileage
Then their should be allot of boxes that have options listed next to them...
Go through and check the boxes that apply...in this case check leather...
Then select the condition of the car..or if your just looking for the retail price it should provide it..
Did this help?
I'm in Maryland. This is the best deal I have seen anywhere so far.
To find out how much you should be paying for new cars, carsdirect.com is where you want to go.
http://www.carsdirect.com/home
After selecting the make/model that you want, it will lead you to another screen, which will ask for your zip code and then you go to another couple of screens asking which features, colors, etc. that you want. Then you'll get a price which you can then save after you sign up with carsdirect.com. There's no charge. To compare with 2004 Hondas you'll need to either go back to KBB or Edmunds.
If you want to get dealer quotes on a new Honda, go to the Locate a Dealer section of the Honda web-site:
http://automobiles.honda.com/tools/locator/landing.asp?RURL=/&bhcp=1&BrowserDetected=True
Fill in the ususal zip code info and it will provide you a list of dealers in your area. You can then e-mail them for quotes.
Happy Hunting!
Thanks for saying the EX V6 only comes in leather.
That's the missing piece that didn't make sense!
KBB says that there is a $433 price difference between a 2005 and a 2004.
That looks like about what the dealer's website says about the car they have listed.
Is that "real world"?
Any hints on what a 2004 Accord EXL V6 automatic with 9,039 miles should go for?
I am in the same city as you.
Can you share what and where you ended up purchasing?
Thanks,
S
Thanks for the CarsDirect link.
It shows the 2005 costs less than the 2004 the dealer has listed!
I'm glad I don't buy cars all the time, this is worse than the day job.
Suzanna