Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
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Frankly its a great car and for the deals the 05's are going at , I don't know why anyone would want any other car in that category ( of course , I would love to own a Acura 3.5 RL but then thats another category)
Thats why you gotta test drive I guess.
Base + destination = 21,132
Tax = 1268
Tyre = 7.5
Doc fees = 149
Registration = 242 (4 yrs)
Total = $22,799
I could have gotten a couple hundred bucks lesse from open road but they did not have the color in stock (graphite pearl). did not want to wait for much longer so went ahead with the above. overall, satisfied with the price and extremely satisfied with the car. makes for a very comfortable ride for a relatively affordable price.
cheers
05 Accord Coupe 2dr V6 6MT w/Navi
MSRP 29,4xx with destination
Invoice 26,5xx
I got it for 23500, almost 6k off MSRP. I think it is really hot. Never seen Honda going for 6K off MSRP or 3K off invoice. I was going to buy a Mazda6 for 7k off MSRP. The dealer said he would only give 7k off MSRP for AT model, which was 28,xxx. If he let me get the Mazda6 MT model for 7k off, I would be driving that car now. Fortunately, he didn't give me that price. Now I am driving a Honda Accord, which I think is a much better car comparing to Mazda. Plus, I have Navigation and 6sp MT for just 3k more.
what price did you pay? you also bought from openroadhonda?
anyway, enjoy the ride
I have quoted a base price of $22,700 for accord sedan 4 cyl, with leather +Navigation. TTL extra.
Please tell me if this is a good price at this time of the year.
It is around $1200 less than invoice which I think is a good.
the navigation is supposed to cost $1,700. given that i paid $21,132 for the same car minus the NAV I would say you are getting a good deal.
cheers
Just a quick note. If you like the 4-cylinder performance, have you considered the EX 4-cylinder? I'm assuming if you were willing to buy an LX V6 it would be in your price range.
The extras on the EX 4-cylinder are- nice looking alloy wheels, power moonroof, security system, in dash cd-changer and driver's seat with power height and lumbar adjustment. The sticker price of the EX 4-cylinder is about $2,500 higher than the LX.
Just thought I'd throw the option out there in case you hadn't considered it. My favorite feature of the EX 4-cylinder is that it has cloth standard, leather optional. I don't like leather, so it's nice to have the option of both.
Good luck. Either way you go, you're getting a great car!
Jason
Jason
I had a friend who bought a Jetta thru carsdirect.com last year and had a very simple, easy experience. They have dealers they work with in most major cities that will honor their price or they can arrange delivery to one of their delivery centers. My friend went the dealer route and they made it painless. He showed up, signed some papers, they demo'd the car and he got the price cardirect.com quoted.
Another tactic that I used when I bought my Maxima in '03 was to print out the carsdirect.com and Edmunds prices and took those to the dealer. I told them I didn't want any BS, give me the deal I could get online or I'll just go thru the website. I made sure to stress that I was in no hurry (when in reality I'd been looking for a titanium 6-speed Maxima with cloth interior for two months).
Hope this helps!
Jason
BTW I got the Graphite pearl color , which is really cool.
I am really happy as of now with my Accord, the discounts they are giving are amazing.
Anyway Good Luck to all you guys.
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you are right
I will go down there this evening and see if they stick to this quote. They have faxed me their form and details of fee/ price which includes all the fee and dest but you never know until all is done.
I plan to buy a Accord LX 05 model w/ Auto Transmission soon.
For my area (Shelburne, VT, zip: 05482), the "target price" at Carsdirect.com is $18,334.
Below is the price quote I got from a local dealer:
Sales price: $18,800(Destination fee included)
Tax: $1132 (6% in VT)
Title fee: $15
Registration: $50
Documentation fee: $75
----------------------
Grand total: $20,079
I definitely feel that $20,079 is way high.
Could anyone here please offer me a clue about what's a fair(reasonable) price I should try to seek?
Thank you very much!
Could you please let me know the name & website of the dealer from which you got 17468(16953+515) quote for LX-auto sedan?
Thank you!
--------------
>>-I just got a quote from NJ dealer for 17468(16953+515) which includes destination for LX-Auto sedan............
Thanks for the smart idea of coming down to openroadhonda, which sounds quite appealing to me.
From your previous post, I know that you just bought a Accord from them. From your experience, could you please give me some input to the following question:
I live in Vermont and intend to register the car in Vermont. If I buy from openroadhonda, do they charge me NJ tax or VT tax?
Thank you
Thanks for the advice. That really sounds like a great idea bringing the carsdirect and edmunds price to the dealer. What was their reaction seeing those prices? Were they really thrown off and not expecting that? Did they give you a quote before you showed them your prices? Thanks again for the advice
Kevin
If any in NJ or nearby planning to purchase Accord 4Dr LX you can try at Willis Honda, Burlington NJ. Pretty much good deals. Got one for $18250 Including TTL and destination fee. It is the best deal.
All the best.
-Raaga
This is the breakdown.
Price + Destination : 16863.49
NJ State Tax : 1011.81
DMV Fee (4 Years) : 242.00
NJ Tire Tax : 7.50
Doc Fee : 125.00
Final Price 18249.80
Thanks
-Raaga
Can you please give me further information about the MVID window etching... Do we have to mention to the insurance company that window etching has done on the vehicle or they will ask... BTW what is ur insurance...
Thanks
-Raaga
This is the best price I have seen. One more thing - this is for auto transimission right ?
Yes.. It is 4 Dr, 4Cycl with Automatic transmission.
Thanks
-Raaga
Any information would be greatly appreciated and I look forward to the suggestions!
do you think they can offer me the same price? did you neogaciated with them to get this price?
Thanks.
Yes, i negotiated with the sales person over there. He is very nice. I am not sure wheather they offer the same price to you or not. If you any any further information please email me i will check with the sales person and will give you the reference.
Thanks
-Raaga
Does anyone have any experiences to share about buying a honda form westchester county ny (white plains, new rochelle, etc) I've been in a few of them but just to test drive. If anyone has anything to share about purchasing from any of these dealerships, I'd be interested to hear about the experience. Thanks
Did you negotiated with them showing other quote- from other delaership or they offered you such a good price as part of their promotion ? As my understanding -most of them don't go down until they have a written quote from some other place as they want to compete and earn buisiness of others.
thanks
MVID etching is done free in NY by the police there acc. to a post here, you gotta check if your locals cops do it. else is 299 or so. they do it on the 4 windows but you can have it done on other parts too. its your last 8 numbers or so of the VIn #.
I have never owned a car before so i have never brough a car insurance before.
I have got several quotes from insurance company. should i just accept the price they gave me--no need to negociate?
should i go to the local agent's office to talk to him/her face to face and buy the insurance or i just buy it on-line?
can i negociate the price with the agent face 2 face?
i know these are some silly questions,
One thing you may want to keep in mind is that in this world ALL things are up for negotiations whether face-to-face, over the phone, email or fax etc.
Your questions are not silly at all, at one point we all "never owned a car, and never bought car insurance..." but you have to start from somewhere......OK enough with the speech.
Insurance quotes are based on several factors including but not limited to your credit score and history, driving history/record, your zipcode, where the car will be parked, how many miles will you be driving a day, the make/model of your car, security and safety equipment installed and so forth and so on.....Having said that throw your net wider and get as many quotes as you can, review what's being offered and compare prices....i.e full glass coverage, roadside asistance, replacement vehicle in case your car needs to to the repair shop.
Whether you go to your local insurance agent's office or you call the insurance company on the phone doesn't make any difference in terms of negotiating. Just tell one insurance company what's been quoted to you by another company and ask if they can beat the price.....hey after all there's no harm in trying right? If no one will beat your lowest quote, then just go with your lowest quote. You can always swtich insurance companies anytime regardless of how long you've been with the insurance company if you find a better price elsewhere.....Note, auto insurance is renewable every 6-months.....the worst case scenario will be to stay with an insurance company for 6-months and don't renew when the insurance expires. Just make sure you insure with the new company on the day the old one expires so you'll be covered all the time.
One key thing to note is if you opt for a higher deductible say 250, or 500 on collision or comprehensive other than collision - your bi-yearly premiums will be lower. Also make sure you opt for the higher coverage levels ie, always take 100,000/300,000 as opposed to the 50,000/100,000 for say uninsured or under-insured motorist in case you find yourself in an accident. The higher level of coverages you choose, the lower your premium will be.
Most people prefer the old-fashioned way and will go and talk face-to-face with a local insurance agent, others just don't really care (myself included) - it's all about convenience and preferences.....
I don't wan't to make this an auto insurance buying lesson, but I believe the info here would be helpful andget you started. Good luck and let's know how you fare.....
I'm also in the market for a 05 Accord LX, but hesitated to take the plunge yet. So do you think we'll get better deal in Sept, Oct. (of course, assuming they still have it in stock?) and How can we check the dealer inventory?
Any info is greatly appreciated!
Good luck
You can go to hondacars.com and search for dealers there. The individual dealer websites often have inventory listed. Another think in your favor is that the LX is the most plentiful.
Good luck!
They did seem thrown by me having the internet quotes and they tried to jerk me around some. I got up to walk out at one point and the sales manager caught me at the door. After that, they were more serious but still tried to nail me with accessories and an extended warranty. I wound up getting it for within $200 of the carsdirect quote.
You have to be willing to stand your ground and walk away.
Good luck!
Jason
I tried to use my quote from openroadhonda.com of $17053 (+515 dest. fee) as a starting price, but no dealer would believe it.
I was able to get them down to $18,250 + $100 doc fee.
Tax (7.5%) $1376.25 for a final OTD price of around $19,735.
It was like pulling teeth to get them that low.
Is this a good deal or did I get screwed.
How can New Jersey dealerships go so low?
Thanks all.
Hope this helps any Buckeye fans.
-Carl
I have found that 100-200$ difference between a good dealer and bad reputation dealers is not worthe the hassle. Twice I was ready to panny up my check after the price was settled and they tried to bambozzle me. Both the times, after wasting couple of hours each, I just walked out. But the dealer I am getting from today is straight up. I have full price quoted with all fees included with no hidden charges, no add-on's. So, I am going to finish the deal today.
First, I am currently in a lease on the dodge durango. I have one payment left plus a termination fee of $250 (assuming there are no fines). How do I work this into the deal to see if they can get me released from it? Is this realistic?
Second, I need help with the next step. I would like to get a lease with 15k miles a year, preferably 36 months with nothing down. I went to the honda site and they gave me a lease quote and then they gave me a quote for a lease special. Are their numbers accurate? what do I need to know about the honda lease negotiations so i am informed? Is the money factor negotiable? What is the money factor range?
Thank you in advance
Make them think that you are only considering purchasing at $24,500. Then say, Well, I hadn't considered it before, but if the numbers work I might consider leasing. For comparison, please give me the numbers based on the $24,500 price that we've already negotiated.
Don't let them try to price a lease based on any other vehicle price.
I would keep your Durango out of the process. That will just muddy the water and give the F&I guy at the dealership room to raise your new car's cost.
That's what I was quoted today for an EXL.
No V6, no nav.
What are your magic words?
S