Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
Sticker (MSRP) $27365.00
Discount $4565.97
Sale Price Subtotal $22799.03
Tax (3%) $683.97
Title/Tag $57.00
DOC Fee $399.00
OTD $23939.00
I tried to get the DOC fee waived, but I felt the $22799 was a good price.
Sound like a deal on par w/other's 2005 Accord experiences?
I was offered via internet by one of the Bay Area dealerships for a 2006 Honda Accord LX-V6 for $23450 plus fees.
OTD price is $26250 incl splash guards, wheel lock and floor mats.
Is that a good offer or should I try to get the price down a little bit? Thanks.
I am looking at a 4cyl SE or EX. MT
Thanks....
Did you get V6 or Navigation? If not, then I hope you didn't pay the money yet since the sale price is far from a good deal.
We just bought a 2005 EXL AT at Open Road Honda(NJ) one month ago and the sale price was $21,300(including destination fee).
Time of year doesn't have much to do with it. It's the supply vs. demand, just like anything else. Those are pretty popular and there aren't a whole lot of NAVI's out there.
2005 Honda Accord EX-L 4 cyl. PZEV** AT Sedan
MSRP: $25,265 (w/$515 Destination)
Dealer's INV.. $22,271
DEST............. $515
===============
Total......... $22,786.00** + CA tax, DMV, Tire & Doc fee.
**NOTE: All California Honda 4 cyl. = PZEV certified - Invoice costs above from Edmunds.com
Using Edmunds.com "Get Dealer Quotes" (obtained 6 Dealer Quotes), ... I bought the car for $1,800 below Invoice!!!
Final tally Anderson Honda in Palo Alto, CA:
Price: .........$20,986.00 ($1,800 below INV)
Tire Fee: ...........$8.75
Doc. Fee: ..........$45.00
8.5% tax: .......$1,735.06
DMV (Est): ........$187.00
======================
TOTAL: .........$22,961.81 OTD 8^D
======================
If your target is a 2005 - ANY HONDA - model, ... IMHO, ... a very-good to excellent deal is anywhere between $1,200 to $1,800 Below INVOICE including Destination and before tax, DMV, Tire & Doc fee!!!
Your final OTD (out the door) $$$ will depend on your State Tax, Licence, Tire and DOC fee's!
Hope this helps,
Phil
Pic's of my 2005 Honda Accord 4 cyl. AT EX-L PZEV Sedan
My Epinions.com 2005 Honda Accord Review
I just got a price quote from a dealer out in seattle for 2006 Accord EX w/ leather and navigation for $ 25,083. Is this a good price for this car? the invoice price is now 24,250. Everybody seems to talk about getting the price lower than the invoice, is it possible for this car?
they also offer me 2005 honda EX w/ leather for 22,200. I am thinking of getting a 2006 model. can someone please advise me on this matter? thank you !
Regards,
idriveahonda
The 2006 is the better buy, and I am betting they will go $1000 below invoice by Thanksgiving.
Ken
VERY few 2005's left and probably zero EXL's at this point.
MSRP of car: $27300
MSRP of optional equipment: $129 (for a pin stripe)
I paid $25020 + freight ($550) + processing fee ($49) + tax + tags.
Which dealership in Seattle?
In my case, I couldn't find any 06 AT LX PZEV Coupes around yet...they were all V6s or EXs. As they came off around $1,800 below invoice it was right at the point were the deprecation will break even...maybe gain if you care for your car and find the right buyer.
Let me give you a real life example. I bought a 2003 AT LX Auto for $17,995 plus fees in 2002 (about 19,800 OTD in CA). Put $900 Hond Care on it making it $20,700. Sold the car for $15,000 cash with a dent in the side that I never repaired. Basicly, I tolk a $5,700 loss and drove the car almost 3 years with 43,000 miles on it and minor damage. That was about $1,900 per year loss. Now my car had some damange ($500 bucks or so) so it took away from the value (would be more like $1,730 per year).
So $1,800 - $1,900 (below invoice) is about the break even point in my experience. As you don't get full return for Honda Car I probably would have done better with out it.
Now also note that assuming you buy an 2006 for invoice you still have about $1,800 - $1,900 dollars you can invest in another place. As the car differences are pretty minor you drive the same car for less dollars out of your pocket
In short, in my opinion, you need around $1800 or so to take an 2005 worth your while. If not hold out for the 2006 at invoice if you can. Saving 1800 makes it even money and allows you to drive a nice car for less. Good luck everyone!
You're going to have a difficult time finding an '05 V6 or even a 4-cylinder EX model at this point. An LX 4-cylinder is probably about all that dealers have left. I went with my step-dad to buy his LX last week and got him a deal of $18,650 out the door.
In reality, about $1000-$1200 off invoice is all that dealers around here (Atlanta) will do. You might be able to get a little more than that, but not much. The '06 models are going for less than a $1000 off MSRP right now, too.
Hope this helps a little.
Jeff
I may be wrong...
Bear in mind, though, that the '05 is essentially a year old when you drive it off the lot. The discounts available on '05 vs. '06 models right now pretty much offset the loss. You won't go wrong either way.
Ken
Can you get more off? Possibly, but it doesn't seem like it from that dealer if they hit the point where they will let you walk.
How bad do you need/want the car? Are you willing to spend the next 2 weeks shopping every dealer in a hundred mile radius?
To me, if you are comfrotable that it is a good price (even if not the absolute lowest conceivable), and you like the dealer (remember, if you buy it far from home to save a few bucks, don't expect any perks when you go to get it serviced locally), than buy it and enjoy.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
$25,518. This included the destination fee, mud guards and striping. We didn't like the stripes so they removed them for us at no extra cost.
Doc fee was an additional 117.00.
The price of the car was 400.00 over invoice. I was offered 500.00 over invoice at another dealer so either way, I felt we were getting a good deal.
The car drives nicely. We had just sold our 97 Accord SE. You can imagine the difference going from a 4 cylinder to a 6 cylinder!!
My suggestion is to get some online quotes first. The internet managers are so easy to work with.
Good Luck!!!
I am glad that you submitted this post. I have been in contact with Ed Martin Honda by phone (I'm from Evansville). I called them looking for a good deal on an '05 V6 EX Accord with raised wing spoiler and started off by offering $22k. I even told them about the manufacturer to dealer incentive of $1,200 and told them what their invoice is.
He quoted me a price of $23,675 and said that if I want the spoiler I will have to pay an additional $650. Obviously, I said no to this because I know what I should be paying. I have since offered $23,500 including the spoiler and he still won't come down. Now I know (as a result of your post) that my offer is not too low like he has said. The gentleman I have been talking to is an older man who laughed at my initial offer and said that he had never sold a car or heard of anyone selling a car for that much under invoice in all his 36 years.
The only thing I can think of as to why he won't sell it to me for that price is because I want the Graphite Pearl one and there is only 1 left. I have heard this is a very popular color. Any ideas?
I have resolved myself to buying a 2006 since I feel like I should be able to get it for around 26k.
About a week ago, I called the Sam Swope dealership and asked to talk to a salesman. I went through the process of telling him that I was aware of his invoice price for the 06 V6 Honda Accord EX and that he could take that price add $550 for destination, $50 for documentation fees, their cost for a raised wing spoiler, and some profit and I would by the car for $25,500 not including sales tax and licensing fees.
He called me back 1/2 hour later and told me that he would sell me the car for 25,900. I thought about it over night and called him back the next morning asking if he would split the difference at $25,700. He said he would if I gave him my credit card # for a $1,000 deposit. I told him that I still needed to arrange financing, confirm a price, and get a spec listing for the car I was going to buy. (I live about 2 hours away). He told me he would not confirm the price until he had my $1,000 deposit. I told him no thanks and got off the phone.
He called me back about an hour later and told me that he would sell it for $25,700. I then asked him to fax me the sticker showing the trim level and all options, including the raised wing spoiler that I had mentioned in my original offer. He then told me that he had forgotten that I had mentioned I would pay his cost but that it wasn't included in the price. He then went on to tell me it would cost an additional $700 for the spoiler.
I think he was trying to take advantage of me the entire time especially when he didn't even offer the spoiler at cost. (The $700 was MSRP plus installation). I then told him I wasn't interested anymore and did not trust him. Can you imagine if I would have paid the deposit and then drove 2 hours only to find out that the spoiler was not included?
Although Sam Swope has had a good reputation in the midwest, this experience really turned me away from them. I would not suggest doing business with them, especially if it is long distance.
Let me know if anyone has had similar experiences.
Car's in very good shape; just wondering if I should sell it by myself or "succumb" to the dealer's offer of 14,000 USD. Looking at your experience, guess I could make more, that is at least 15,000 USD?
Thanks for any possible input.
Completed my transaction at OTD price $19,900 for 05 Accord LX AT W/ Door Edge Guards & Fenderwell Trim.
Car 18,076.69
Title, Lic., Reg. 125.25
9.3 % Tax 1663.06
Doc. Fee 35.00
Total 19900.00
Had the best experience at Lynnwood Honda.
And they wouldn't sell the car for what you wanted to pay?
It just sounds like they made a business decision not to sell you that car.
It's probably already sold to someone else willing to pay the market value for it.
A deal has to make sense for a dealer to accept it.
The total out the door was 19,535.
The break down was
Price 18,000.00 (including destination)
Doc fee 54.00
Tax 7.75%
Title transfer $80.00
They were starting with the price 18,335 (including destination). I refused to pay more than 18,000.
I like the car very much. Overall a great value. In the scheme of things paying a few dollar more or less while buying this care won't matter, because of what a value this care turns out to be.
Regards.
I actually think Ed Martin Honda has handled the process very well even though I didn't get a car.
I don't know if I understand why they would have made a business decision not to sell me the car unless I came across too abrasive, which I don't think I did. I only "told" them the invoice price after we had discussed an offer. Prior to that, I had just mentioned that I was aware of what the invoice was and what the manufacturer's incentive was. I said this after they told me that they would be losing money if they sold me the car for $23k.
And yes, I am upset with the Sam Swope dealership because I just feel like they were trying to take advantage of me. Trying to get me to put down a deposit before the terms were agreed upon as well as trying to get me to pay MSRP for the spoiler when he made the mistake.
Any suggestions on how to go about this better?
If you're looking to buy a brand new 2006 Honda, which is restyled and substantially improved, I'm not sure you're going to get something close to invoice price right away. I think what Isellhondas is saying is correct, that the dealer feels at this point the amount you want to pay does not look like a good deal to them. Probably it's not something you want to hear, but I don't think spoilers are really that functional, and perhaps you could live without it and save yourself some money. Also, you may or may not know that edmunds.com has a price request function. Go to new cars, look up the Accord model of your choice, and it will prompt you to ask for prices from a few dealers. Once you get those prices, you'll have a good idea of where the market is right now for the new 2006s.
I am the happy owner of black with tan leather 2005 Accord Sedan EX V-6 with XM radio. I paid $1500 under the factory invoice price ($23,208.32) include the doc. fee, tax, title and license and I was out the door at $25,082. I'm a happy girl, it was a real challenge finding the car I wanted in black. I believe I got a good deal. The dealership I worked with was wonderful - Classic Honda in Streetsboro, Ohio.
Now I need to decide whether or not to have the dealership Simoniz the car ($450 with a 5 yr. warranty) ... with the car being black I feel like I really should do it. Any opinions on this????
A lor of salespeople really don't like it when a customer "tells" them...
" I know your invoice"
" I know about your incentive money!"
Think about it...
At that point, the salesperson may simply lose interest in making what he/she knows will be a "mini" deal, with maybe a bad survey to boot.
The people who pay the least are usually the ones who leave unhappy.
I've said this so many times I know the "regulars" her are sick of hearing this...
Cars sell for what the market dictates. What a dealer may have paid for the car has nothing to do with this. Yes, if they are confident the next person will pay them more for the same car. they will decline the sale.
And...don't you believe all of the "Prices Paid" you read about on the internet.
Good luck...it realy doesn't have to be a hard, difficult process.
And, don't live in fear that just maybe, someone else may have paid a few dollars less then you did. That's a tough way to go through life.
For what it's worth...
What exactly does the "warranty" cover? Are they going to repaint the car if a bird craps on it and etches the paint? Acid Rain Damage? Read the fine print!!!
If you keep the car washed and waxed, don't waste your money. If you are the type that doesn't wash or wax your car very often, then you might consider it.