I just got the Mopar EVS 1 alarm installed on my 06 Jeep Liberty. The settings seem to be far too sensitive for my needs....if you slam a door nearby the horn blasts once. If you kick a tire, the alarm goes off, with the horn blowing and the lights flashing. I followed the procedures to reduce the sensitivity of the sensor but it still seems way too sensitive. Anyone else have this problem? How was it resolved???? Thanks, Dave
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport. It does the same exact thing yours does. We took it to the dealer and they said there was nothing wrong with it. Then my husband noticed that the steering wheel wasn't returning - thinking that was our fishtailing problem we took it back to the dealer and they put a new rack and pinion on it. Needless to say that DID NOT take care of fishtailing problem, and it also did not take care of my returning steering wheel. We have also tried different tire pressures no difference. Any small bumps or grooves in a road will make you swerve and sway. It seems like the warmer it gets the worse it is. So I don't know if it's the warmer the engine from use or weather temperature. Mine doesn't do it so much when I leave in the cool morning.
I have a 2004 and mine has a similar problem but also when it gets hot or we have been towing our John Boat it shifts hard; really hard.... we have also been told they can not locate the problem though. Since it is still under the factory warrenty we had it documented in case something happened in the future. Glad to know I am not the only one.
There has been alot of talk about the dead cell battery and then clicking in rear and when vehicle jumped you must keep your foot in throttle to keep it running. Not many people are posting their solutions. Recently this happened to me on my 2002 liberty renegade (cactus green lights on top - yep I like it!)
As far as I can tell the stock OEM battery has a common failure mode that is a dead cell in the battery. This causes low voltage (dead battery). This low voltage allows some systems to function properly and some not. So when you get the vehicle jumped IAC valve (idle air control) wigs out because there isn't the proper voltage to control the valve. This explains the dying problem after jumped and evidently the clicking stuff is happening due to this low voltage stuff too.
Remove battery and let vehicle set for 15 minutes so all previous electrical stuff is gone and then install new battery.
And from what I can tell from previous postings is that after you jumped the vehicle the IAC valve poor functioning might cause a really high vacuum (which kills engine when you let off accelerator - when you have your foot on the pedal the throttle valve is open and the engine is getting plenty air) this really high vacuum may give you an eventual vacuum leak. So don't keep trying to jump the engine.
My jeep is up to 70,000 miles now. I have had only minor problems apart from the odd bulb or jubilee clip snaping that connected the turbo pipe (Top).Its running like a dream. I am now concidering fitting a Sat nav "RB1 AM/FM Navigation, CD, DVD with CD Changer Controls" Has any one attempted this on a 2002 liberty and what modifications are required.
Ok, let's do this the right way. I will go buy a quart of dcx mopar oil and have it lab tested straight from the bottle. Then I'll get a filter, cut it open and compare media and pleat size.I'll compare it to a purolator a fram and an stp. That way all data is factual and current. But the idea that you need to change your oil every 3000 miles is because jiffy bull does not lab test each cars oil for wear and contaminants, thats a fact. I have a 1992 volvo just turned 200,000 miles. I ran my last 4 quarts of mobil1 5W30 for 10,210 miles, with a purolator pure one filter. It is a simple scientific fact that if the oil became over contaminated and broke down so would my car. On a kinder gentler note I am now running half 5w30 mobil1 and 1/2 rotellaT 15W40
An advanced modern engine can adjust timing and ignition to account for poor fuel, although it will lack power too. It will also advance timing for higher octane also. I ran a tank of 92 with zero gains in mpg or power.
Why not consider a portable gps [garmin,magellen,sony, etc.]. Mine only cost $500 , it works amazingly and can be moved from car to car. Best travel investment ever!
no fish tailing , there is this neat thing called the accelerator, if you use it wisely you won't have the fishtailing problems, i drive mine hard and no fish tailing, well only once but that was on glare ice but nothing gets good traction on that, by the way i don't even have esp, you people need to learn how to use your throttle more wisely
So just as a follow-up, we followed the instructions exactly to lower the sensitivity of the two vehicle sensors and after two attempts, it seems to be okay now. The horn still goes if someone kicks a tire but at least the alarm doesnt go off now when someone slams their truck door nearby or at the sound of thunder. Dave
I have a 2005 liberty and I'm with the others on this, I have also had problems fishtailing. Not all the time, but when it does happen it is definitely serious enough to cause concern. It usually happens when I am doing a turn when I was initially at a stop. I am not accelerating at any large speed and my tires are not worn at all. Its something I definitely want to figure out because next time I could be in a serious accident! Does anyone have any solutions?
If the pavement is wet or slippery, then my rear end can break loose a bit taking off into a turn but only in 2wd. If you are fishtailing on dry surfaces, then who knows. Also, though your tires are not worn---they could be a problem depending on the brand. Some tires have poor traction irrespective of wear, while others seem to be much better. I don't drive my Liberty the way I drive my Chrysler Concorde. The Liberty drive train and suspension is compromised to allow for serious off-roading. I drive it like the chunky little truck it is and stay aware of the limitations and potential problems inherent in the design. So far so good.
I have the cheapest good year tires that come on the Liberty and I drive pretty hard, I have a manual transmision and first gear will throw you back in your seat and I have no fish tailing problems I drive it hard and only under slippery conditions would it fish tail remember it is short wheel base for an suv, I work with people that have an 02, 04,06 Liberts with automatics and they have no problems mine is an 05 and no problems
Hey, I HAVE A 2006 THAT IS HESITATING AND THE MECHANIC AT Jeep SAID THAT SINCE IT IS NOT POPPING A CODE UP ON THE COMPUTER THAT NOTHING IS WRONG...I KNOW THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG , DID YOU EVER FIND OUT WHAT WAS WRONG WITH YOURS?
My jeep liberty 2004 groans when i drive it in the morning for first 100 yards (feels like something may be stuck in the tire). I had left tire, wheel and axle replaced and it started after that. Took it back and they said air in the brakes...but it started again after a day. Will apreciate some pointers before i take it back.
I have an 04 liberty sport with about 24k miles...While you are driving the od light flashes very rapidly and keeps shifting in and out very quickly...I have had it to the dealer 3 times now and nothing can be found... They hook it up to the computer and of course it doesn't do it.. The way it is going in and out it almost seems like there is a short or a switch is going out.. Concerned that it will damage my trany cause it shifts out of overdrive so much.. especially on interstate...it shoots up to 4k on the tac when traveling at high speeds and then down and back very rapidly.....been to 2 different dealerships and nothing can be found...anybody else experience this or any suggestions
Just today the rear passenger side window in my 2002 Liberty started slipping into the door. I can push it back up with my hands, but it starts slipping again. When you hit the power window button it just makes a grinding noise and nothing happens. Anyone know what this could be and if so, what parts it might need? I'm pretty handy, so if I know what it is, I can probably replace it without going to a mechanic.
Did anyone find a solution to the "jumping tacometer" or the stalling out? My jeep was great until near the end of the warranty, now it is in the shop more than out. It started w/ shifting out of the blue on the highway (which is scary). Progressed to the wild jumping in the tac then stalling out. Dealer replaced a sensor and declared it fine.I didn't make it more than 40 mins. before it died again and had to be towed back. They still said nothing was wrong with it... that was until the mechanic got stuck and had to be towed back. It has been almost a week this time with no vehicle. Though I love the thing, I am thinking of bailing now while it has some resale/trade-in value still in it. Any input from others would be appreciated as to whether it has happened to them and if it was fixed.
I'm replying to my own message because there are people out there who don't understand what we are talking about. My Liberty doesn't actually fishtail - it feels as if it is. I know how to drive and to accelerate. It feels as if you are going to look out your side window and see the back end come around!!!!
As an added note, I got my Jeep out of the shop, made it less then 20 mins this time and it died on the highway again. Had to tow it right back to the dealer. They are supposedly calling Chrysler, but only because I had a friend who works for another dealer call them and push some buttons. I am more than a week without a vehicle now with no end in sight.
I would love to hear some answers to this as well. I have a 2002 Liberty Sport that has a rear driver window that slips down and the motor makes an awful noise when activated. Right now it also has no A/C. We have a Shrader valve/hose assembly on order. Really fun since I live on the coast of NC. I have also had a tail light fill up with water and short out the electrical system in the rear and a rear differential leak. Now I need a timing belt. I'm about ready to bail myself to a Japanese or Korean vehicle. This thing has been a nightmare. My 12 year old Honda Civic is a dream in comparison. :mad:
My father owns a 2002 Jeep Liberty 4WD with about 70,000 miles on it, we do regular oil changes as well and the engine blew. This is under a 75,000 mile warranty but the dealership won't cover the engine because we can't prove that we have done the regular oil changes. The oil was sludgey and nasty black. I have read on another site for the cause of sludge and it noted that it could be from a blown head gasket or something to that effect. Any suggestions ?
earlclay2: Ask your service manager to call the zone rep and schedule a conference. If you have some history in buying DCX vehicles this will help as well. I have seen this kind of issue before. The thing that comes to my mind is what ever you saved in $ can't be enough to pay for the engine repair, can it? Unless aperson loves to work on vehicles, it can be a mistake. When you do oil changes save your reciept for the oil and filter, and put the mileage on the slip. Save the papers in a folder and thenyou have your proof og keeping the vehicle up. Hope this works out for you.
Any updates on your 2002 Liberty AC problem? I've been stumped with a similar problem with my 2002 Liberty, and our dealer is having a heck of a time fixing it.
Our AC is ice cold... when it works. While driving it will abruptly stop and start blowing hot air. At the dealer they to replicate the problem but if the car's parked it blows 38 with no problem. It seems like it only occurs when the car's on the road. Does this sound familiar to you?
My 2 month old Liberty has been in the shop for the past 7 days with a PCM problem. Crysler had decided to replace it however they are apparently in "back order" forcing them to source a replaement from across the country.
Just wondering if this lack of parts means it's a rare occurance, or is this a far more frequent problem ?
Wondering if anyone else has had the same problem I've been having. This is the second time I've had to replace the windshield on my 2003 Liberty Limited. Both cracks have started at the top from chips and have occurred on vacation so I didn't even get a chance to get the chip repaired. Are people finding this a common problem. I think the cause is not frame on the top of the windshield. Is there any fix for this?
Hi...I was checking on this problem since my 2003 Liberty is currently at the dealer getting a new window mechanism/regulator (forgot the part name) to fix my slipping window problem. When I dropped it off this morning I was told it is a common problem and it would cost about $300 to fix. I thought since it is so common that it would be nice if it was treated as a recall so I've emailed the customer service dept. at Jeep.com to get their feedback. The problem is in the left rear window but the guy at the dealer kind of chuckled and said, "Don't be surprised if the right one doesn't go too" making me feel really great about the issue altogether.
Posted earlier on 03 Liberty with vague steering wobble at slower speeds. It just didn't feel solid but figured it might be the front end design. It was a subtle feeling that my wife never noticed and the dealership couldn't diagnose. Just had the second recall service on the ball joints and there was an immediate improvement in the way it handles. Much more solid. I'm very happy with this truck.
I own a 2001 Jeep Liberty Sport, 2WD, 3.7ltr V-6. It has just over 65,000 miles. I've recently noticed a small amount of smoke (white/gray, not blue) and water coming from the exhaust pipe. It's about the same amount and color of smoke you would see during a cold start in the winter. Not a billowing amount. This smoke does, however, stay constant. I am also detecting a smell of gasoline. My service engine indicator has been on for about a week. The code it displays, I was told, is most likely a fuel cap problem. What is the most likely cause of these symptoms?
imaporboy2: You may become even poorer if you ignore that service light much longer. The light smoke, may just be condensation from the muffler. As for the smell of fuel, that just isn't good! Take it to a dealer real soon! Hope this helps.
So has anyone found out the problem and solution is in the 03 Liberty Sport: makes a clunking noise in the rear when the car downshifts around 30 mph when O/D is on?
I've been waiting two months for a phantom cable which is intended to correct a U-connect & Ipod controller incompatability.
It turns out the Chrysler Ipod kit is not 100% compatable with the U-connect option as advertised. Engineering has apparently indicated they need an additional cable installed , yet after about 8 weeks I'm still waiting for Chrysler to indicate to the dealer where they can actually get the part.
I have a 2003 Liberty with 65,000 miles. Resently I have noticed a sound of compressed air or a vaccum leak by the rear driver wheel. The sound will slowly die away after I turn off the engine. I have been under the car but still can not find the source. Anyone have this sound
I had the same sound on my GMC Suburban. I turned out to be the fuel pump located in the tank. I to have the same sound on my 2002 Liberty. I'm very certain that it is part of the fuel and/or the emission system.
We have opened up an entire series of new topics related to the Jeep Liberty, in order to better focus each topic for you. Rather than plow through thousands of posts in one giant topic, you can now select a topic that narrows down your points of concern or interest about the Liberty.
Please consult the Jeep Liberty Group list and select a topic that addresses your concerns.
If you can't find a topic that matches what you want to talk about, feel free to start a new discussion---BE SURE to make your new topic broad enough for others to join in---e.g., "Jeep Liberty AC Issues", rather than "2005 Jeep Liberty AC rattling noise".
This "Problems and Solutions" topic will be made "read only".
Comments
As far as I can tell the stock OEM battery has a common failure mode that is a dead cell in the battery. This causes low voltage (dead battery). This low voltage allows some systems to function properly and some not. So when you get the vehicle jumped IAC valve (idle air control) wigs out because there isn't the proper voltage to control the valve. This explains the dying problem after jumped and evidently the clicking stuff is happening due to this low voltage stuff too.
Remove battery and let vehicle set for 15 minutes so all previous electrical stuff is gone and then install new battery.
And from what I can tell from previous postings is that after you jumped the vehicle the IAC valve poor functioning might cause a really high vacuum (which kills engine when you let off accelerator - when you have your foot on the pedal the throttle valve is open and the engine is getting plenty air) this really high vacuum may give you an eventual vacuum leak. So don't keep trying to jump the engine.
I am now concidering fitting a Sat nav "RB1 AM/FM Navigation, CD, DVD with CD Changer Controls"
Has any one attempted this on a 2002 liberty and what modifications are required.
Then I'll get a filter, cut it open and compare media and pleat size.I'll compare it to a purolator a fram and an stp.
That way all data is factual and current.
But the idea that you need to change your oil every 3000 miles is because jiffy bull does not lab test each cars oil for wear and contaminants, thats a fact.
I have a 1992 volvo just turned 200,000 miles. I ran my last 4 quarts of mobil1 5W30 for 10,210 miles, with a purolator pure one filter. It is a simple scientific fact that if the oil became over contaminated and broke down so would my car. On a kinder gentler note I am now running half 5w30 mobil1 and 1/2 rotellaT 15W40
Any ideas?
Thanks!
I have seen this kind of issue before. The thing that comes to my mind is what ever you saved in $ can't be enough to pay for the engine repair, can it? Unless aperson loves to work on vehicles, it can be a mistake. When you do oil changes save your reciept for the oil and filter, and put the mileage on the slip. Save the papers in a folder and thenyou have your proof og keeping the vehicle up. Hope this works out for you.
Farout
Any updates on your 2002 Liberty AC problem?
I've been stumped with a similar problem with my 2002 Liberty, and our dealer is having a heck of a time fixing it.
Our AC is ice cold... when it works. While driving it will abruptly stop and start blowing hot air. At the dealer they to replicate the problem but if the car's parked it blows 38 with no problem. It seems like it only occurs when the car's on the road. Does this sound familiar to you?
Thanks,
Tom D
:confuse:
Just wondering if this lack of parts means it's a rare occurance, or is this a far more frequent problem ?
Farout
It turns out the Chrysler Ipod kit is not 100% compatable with the U-connect option as advertised. Engineering has apparently indicated they need an additional cable installed , yet after about 8 weeks I'm still waiting for Chrysler to indicate to the dealer where they can actually get the part.
Has any one else run into this?
We have opened up an entire series of new topics related to the Jeep Liberty, in order to better focus each topic for you. Rather than plow through thousands of posts in one giant topic, you can now select a topic that narrows down your points of concern or interest about the Liberty.
Please consult the Jeep Liberty Group list and select a topic that addresses your concerns.
Here's the link to the Group List:
Jeep Liberty Topic List
If you can't find a topic that matches what you want to talk about, feel free to start a new discussion---BE SURE to make your new topic broad enough for others to join in---e.g., "Jeep Liberty AC Issues", rather than "2005 Jeep Liberty AC rattling noise".
This "Problems and Solutions" topic will be made "read only".
MrShiftright
Host