Many have had troubles with bearings going out. I believe it should be covered (paid for) if you have the work done by dealor ( 02,03,04 models 5 years or 60k miles).
One thing I don't see listed is intake manifold gasket replacement. If it hasn't been replaced with the updated part, I would be sure to check to see if its leaking. Its a very prevelant problem on that year
I would confirm what the deductible will be on the warranty, and buy a warranty that will meet the miles and time you expect to own the car.
Kts1 is correct that intake manifold gaskets are a problem on these cars, BUT even a powertrain warranty would cover that.
And frankly... even if I had those gaskets checked out and they were good, I wouldn't own the car without the warranty. That's not really a knock on the car, but, any car over 100k will need some repairs and you said you did not want any surprises.
Buy enough warranty to cover you during your ownership and I think you will have a good experience!
It Depends on what type of tire you want. All terrain, Touring, winter and summer ect. If you go to your local tire store they should be able to help you. But I dont think you will find a tire for the RDV in your price range.
I had trouble finding a tire store that carried 215 70R 16. I was told that it is an odd size and it would take about a week to order them. But, I was also looking for a good all season tire, so that might be why I had trouble. The tires I did put on are Copper Discovery ATR. They are about 140 to 160, but they are an excellent tire.
Alot of the tires I found that fit were around the 130 mark. When replacing tires I always shop around for the best deals on a particular tire. So just call some of your local tire stores and tell them your price range and most of them will get you pretty close.
you won't find a good tire under $100.00. go with a Yokohama Geolander H/T at about 115 to 135 a peice . price depends on where you go. stay away from Uniroyal. they dont last on this vehicle. I have an 04 with 105k and the Uniroyals wore out within 20k. I bought the Yokohamas at 77k and they still ride and look good
Thanks for the tips. I'll check out the Yokohamas. You never know how different tires perform on different vehicles. It always helps to get some first-hand info.
The Yokohama Geolander is available in 215/70-16, but it has a mild off-road tread pattern. Be sure you are ready for an aggressive tread like this, it will yield more noise and a stiffer ride.
Besides the Coopers mentioned, you could go with: General Ameri-GS60 Kumho Solus KR21 Uniroyal Tiger Paw Tour SR
Based on online reviews of these tires, I would recommend the Kumhos. And they're only $61 each (plus shipping/installation). They're the best choice if you stick to your stock size.
If you have time, I recommend studying TireRack's site, lots of tire info and reviews and test results available there. If you don't want the Kumhos for some reason, I can run your size through an online tire size calculator and find a second size that would be acceptable for your 04 RDV. (one that wouldn't mess up the rolling diameter and keeps the speedometer accurate)
I purchased a set of 4 B.F. Goodrich Long Trail T/A from Costco for $327.50 including tax and installation. Periodically, Costco will offer $60 off on a set of four tires. Mine have 20K miles and show no wear. I rotate and balance them every 5K miles and this servive is free at costco for as long as you own the tires. I definitely recommend the tires and the dealer. I have an 04 Rndz.
Got a letter from GM stating that the 2002 Rendezvous has the potential to "develop a small crack at the base of the fuel fill tube near the fuel tank that can allow ffuel vapors to escape and cause liquid fuel to drop to the ground during refueling and normal driving."
The letter states that if you think you have this problem, you should schedule an appt. with a GM dealer to get it repaired.
I wonder if this has anything to do with the gasoline smell I notice in the car sometimes.
Unfortunately all manufacturers have these "notifications", or sometimes even worse, "silent recalls". Reminds me of the sludge problems that were ruining Toyota 6 cylinder engines a few years ago, used in Toyota and Lexuses. If an engine was damaged due to the problem, and the person KNEW to complain at the dealership, they got a free engine. I think they called it a "campaign".
No manufacturer wants the stigma of "recall' associated with their products.
Ya. My wife got the same letter for her 2003 FWD RDV as well. One those politically written "don't call us unless your vehicle has this problem. And if it has this problem, its repair is free - if you show the GM dealer this letter". From a campaign perspective, excellent marking technique. re: Its not a recall or free repair (if your vehicle "proactively" needs it). Its only a free repair if your vehicle has the problem - from a "reactive fix" perspective. So... If 20% vehicles has the problem and say 10% of the folks remember to show their letter (assume they didn't lose the letter) at the GM dealer, GM only needs to fix 10% of the vehicles "for free". And if the vehicle is sold to another and that new ower takes the "broken problem" to a non-GM dealer, the problem won't appear on a formal GM/Buick recall list. Thus, the customer pays (out of their own pocket) the non-GM auto shop to fix the gas leak. In the end, GM may end up paying for only 10% of the vehicles to be repaired. For a formal recall perspective, 100% target of vehicles are formally logged and recalls are done on a proactive approach - whether your vehicle has the "gas leak" problem or not.
Long story short... Their approach on this one is more then a political campain. Its how to reduce their repair costs.... And keeps more dollars in their pockets. To me, very unethical way to fix a known gass leak problem.
Just to put it in a different perspective, they have already identified the vehicles they believe are most subject to the problem and have officialy recalled them. The warranty extenstion is just in case others may develop them problem. To me it would seem to be a large waste of time effort and money ro replace things that aren't broke (and may never break).
netnerd, if you smell raw fuel and your not actually at the gas station, or driving behind some other vehicle that may be leaking, or have the SES light on because of fuel cap problem, I would definetly get it checked. Sooner is better then later.
If your vehicle has a "high risk" of a known braking problem, then mandatory recall is done. If your vehicle has a "high risk" of known steering problem, then immediate recall is done. If your vehicle has known "high risk" of seat belt problem, then immediate recall as well. These are all human safety issues and without too much debate, a recall is done. To me, a recall isn't a bad thing. Its actually a "good thing". Good thing because Buick is willing to "proactively" fix the under designed item. And yes, under design items happen all the time - in any industry. To me, a recall shows that "they care" and are willing to fix 100% of the vehicles involved - before others are hurt.
If your vehicle has a "high risk" of known gas leak, then a "campaign" to get it fixed is acceptable? To me, leaking gas is a human risk issue as well. Just like brakes, steering and seat belts. Too bad "the jury" is still out on their leaking intake gaskets and known electronic problems. Especially ib tger 2002 RDVs.
A "campain" is a means to keep more dollars in their pocket - by fixing less then 100% of the vehicles involved. That's the bottom line behind their political correct written words...
First Forgive me if this has been asked / answered already. Keep in mind all repair made by dealer...
In last year- have had to replace: - moonroof -(bad motor): -door switches (stopped working); -a pulley (loud squelching); -Onstar;--ok so this I saw coming,,,,,,,but since December 2007 my electric system went dead and replaced ignition switch, battery, they also found oil leak on intake manifold,,,,luckily most covered by extended warranty. But then the squelching began again so they sprayed wd40,the rain was blamed. ....
This past week,,AWD / Antilock brake lights come on --they have to replace a brake sensor and found something faulty in my braking,,also squelching now blamed on bad power steering pump,,,,again most covered by a warranty.
BUT a Problem that has been consistent is it stalls when at slow speeds, usually 5-10 miles when turning, onto a drive way, parking lot, etc,,,,,doesn't happen often,,,about 1 every four months,,,,,plenty of gas and no dummy lights,,,Onstar runs diagnostic at the time but no problems noted . Had it looked at for this problems at 19,000 miles,,,(currently at 44,000), back then no source of problem could be found, and they stated that without a code,,,,,,,Now, they state that a TSB suggests the fuse box in engine compartment be changed due to corrosion. Warranty wont cover this,,I am insisting that since this problem was originally brought to their attention two years ago,,that they cover it.. I know that was wordy,,but any one else go through this,,,,,,,,any help would be appreciated..... thanks :sick: :sick: :lemon:
Tell them to take a look at the fuse box and just tell you if it is corroded. This will take them 5 minutes, insist this CHECK should not cost you a penny.
If they come back saying it is corroded, then you are correct, this condition could be causing the stalling and since you brought it up to them before the warranty expried it would be covered by GM. It's important in these cases to make sure they document your complaint in the service record WORD for WORD. Don't let them get away with anything less otherwise you won't have a leg to stand on in post-warranty claims.
If they don't find corrosion, then the problem lies elsewhere.
When it stalls, does the engine sputter/cough and then stall (which would lead me to other issues than just electrical) or does it turn off very abruptly (more electrical in nature then).
Totally agree with you. They should only charge you for the part if you qualify for the free tank. After all, the new tank will not come with a new sensor, SO if you tell them you aren't paying for the sensor they still have to take the old sensor out of the old tank and install it in the new tank. So you're not increasing their labor by one minute.
Insist on this.... demand to speak to a service manager. If you don't get what you deserve go to another Buick dealer, or even a Pontiac/Chevy/Saturn (in that order, that's how familiar they would be with this vehicle). Changing a fuel tank isn't very vehicle specific.
The fuel guage on my 2002 CXL would go to empty and the low fuel light would come on whenever the car idled for over 2 minutes. I finally took it the Buick garage and they said the fuel guage sensor would have to be replaced, $541, then they discovered there was a recall to change the fuel tank ..... do you think I should have to pay for changing the sensor since it's located in the fuel tank (I can see paying for the part, but not the installation)?
GREAT NEWS,,,,The service manager agreed to change the fuse box. This was after several call backs,,,I did go back wIth paperwork from 2006,,that stated WORD for WORD the exact problem that was currently happening. There was no sputtering / coughing when stalling In fact when I went back and asked the service writer if this indeed would be covered if under the original warranty,he explained that it would. Thats when BAM!, I pulled out the receipt from 2006. (although all this was on their computer records)I got the old "I'll have to run this by my manager" bit,,,but after a third call to find out the status on Tuesday, (mind you, I took it in in in Friday 2/15/08, and it wasnt ready until 2/20/08,,but I can live with that. The car appears to run well,,,,,,,,,although I did get the chimes ringing in the car when comingto a stop ( no lights, plenty of gas ,no turn signal left on),,,this has happened twice before,,,so I'll will keep watch. Thanks for the advice,,,,,,,,,
AWD Disable (with our without the antilock light) comes on for, from what I can tell from all the posts here and on the Aztek forums for 3 reasons:
1. Wheel Bearing/Speed Sensor failure. 2. Wiring harness failure. 3. AWD Control Valve Failure. (Thanks Dan Tucker, Pine Bluff, AR)
I was lucky enough to have BOTH 1 and 2 on my wife's 03 RDV. Left Rear bearing was SHOT - the speed sensor cover had rusted through. Put on the new bearing and when you applied the brakes, the anti-lock would kick in - even under light braking. I still had a problem.
So I went after electrical - it seemed logical, since the AWD Disable light would initially go off (the computer does a diagnostic every time the car is started, and apparently if it doesn't get a good signal from ALL wheel sensors - it sets the light)
Took the connector from the wheel bearing I had just replaced and soldered it to the end of a $1.00 extension cord (you need at least 9 ft). With the circuit energized, the power side of the plug should show a consistent carrier signal - mine was 4.75 volts to ground. You can also OHM them to the ABS computer connector - all connectors should ohm less than 10 (see where the extension cord comes in handy??)
After all 4 wheels run through ohms and volts - found the left front speed sensor power line broken off right at the connector. With some choice words and REALLY lucky connector work - wire reconnected and problem solved.
If you are unlucky enough to have the control valve - the part number is 88896067 and is $107 plus shipping from gmpartsdirect. You'll also be out about $75 for versatrak fluid. Pretty easy to change, I am told.
The car has 92,000 on it and the bearing was original. Don't know the age of the other 3 bearings, but I have a spare rear (from my Aurora) when it goes.
One other good thing from this - the rear end groaning with parking lot maneuvers seems to have gone away with the installation of the new bearing.
Has the dealer (or some other good mechanic) run it on their diagnostic machine? My Aurora had a similar problem - sporadic engine stalls - at just about any speed - the first time it happened was at 60 mph - pretty exciting.
When the dealer ran the diagnostics for my miss problem - they alterted me to a Crank Position Sensor issue. I changed them (2 on a Northstar) about a month ago and not one stall or hiccup from the engine since. The miss was cured with a new coil pack.
You might have the CKS and a Camshaft circuit problem.
Hi,,my stalling was only when I was slowing down (5-10mph) and making a turn such as going onto a parking lot or a turn. It was abrupt with no sputtering , no lights, just car off,,,,I would always call Onstar but they did not find a problem,,and dealer could not find problem at first,,,,,,they did on last visit say it was the fuse block (engne) and after some arm twisting and a receipt fron 2006,,,fixed it for FREE,,,,,,,finally running good,,,,,,,,for now
I received the same letter. My problem with the 04 Rendezvous is the Low Fuel light and fuel gauge problem as described in previous posts. According to dealer, fuel sensor inside fuel pump needs to be replaced at a cost of $650. In addition, service engine soon light is on all the time. Does anyone know what the actual repair is with regard to the recent letter and if I can coordinate the repair of my fuel sensor with that?
I had the same problem with the Low Fuel Light and Fuel Guage. When I took it to the Buick garage they said i would cost $534 to replace the fuel guage sender, however, when they checked further they found the fuel tank needed to be replaced, ended up costing $373.65 since some of the cost was covered by the recall. Haven't had any problem with the service engine soon light.
I'm not sure about the fuel low light/ gauge thing exactly. I do have those problems in mine I suppose. Top half of the tank everything is fine but when the fuel goes below 1/2 a tank then we can never tell how much is in it other than reading the driver information system gallons used. The Service Engine Soon light sounds like an issue we had in our other car(a ford Taurus) there was a small tank leak at the top of the tank and we kept taking the car in to get the error read. At least here in our city there is one place that reads it for free. Our error on that one was below bank 2 or in other words somewhere in emissions. Pressure was not accurate in the gas tank due to the leak. Maybe if this is your issue then you can get the tank replaced(at Buick's expense) and save some money on the sensor repair.
Has anyone found a Hayes or Chilton's or another type of manual on this car yet? Been looking everywhere hoping to find one but apparently this car is not popular enough to have them go to the trouble of coming out with one yet.
how you doin I have all of the above but I also have the problem that when I turn on my brights the overhead light in the back blinks like a turning signal, hatchback door doesnt work, auto mirrors, dashlights. basicaly the only damn thing that works as far as interior electric is the power seat and the heat (not ac), and my problems are constant and havent stopped since they started. If you have any new info please let me know my e-mail is: samara1117@comcast.net name is George
Widespread electrical "gremlins" like that usually tie back to the most common of power sources in a car, the battery. I would start by making sure the connections at the battery terminals are solid, tight, and clean. Inspect battery for any evidence of leaking/cracks in its plastic case.
Hi I bought a 2003 Rendezvous CX with the exterior liftgate switch, that's located under the liftgate handle on the outside of the liftgate.
For some reason that switch does not work. The only way that I can open the liftgate is with the remote.
I tried opening the cover (inside the liftgate) for the tail bulb replacement and found out that there is a yellow/black wire with a 2-pin socket at its end hanging there.
It seems like that this wire has come lose of the switch and needs to be plugged back in.
Now my question is that does anyone know how to remove the panel inside the liftgate to access that switch from inside.
If I just remove the panel covering the Tail Lights, that is too high for any work to be performed on the liftgate exterior switch. It seems like the whole panel at the bottom of liftgate needs to be removed.
I have a 2004 and my Mode button in the DIC will not work. I can press it until the end of time and no menu appears. The display shows the direction and temp but nothing else. Is there a fuse just for the DIC controls? Could it be disconnected somehow? I got a low tire pressure display, leveled out all the tires and can't reset. What can I do? Thanks!
I think if you were to disconnect the negative battery terminal for a little while (10 min might do it, overnight might be better) that might clear the warning.
If it's just the buttons themselves, they look pretty easy to replace. If you bought a set from your local used auto parts store (aka "junkyard") it probably is something a friend / mechanic could replace at a fairly low cost.
I own a 2003 Buick RDV with 77000k and recently had to replace both rear suspension arms because of bushing failure at a cost of $400 & labour per side. This seems like a part that should not wear out at this early stage and am wondering if there is some GM warranty or if I should go after GM for compensation. Any comment would be appreciated.
That is a bit early for bushing failure, but not unheard of. My 1999 Ford Contour required front arms to be replaced due to bushing failure around 80k miles.
Whether you get help from GM on the problem or not depends very largely on your relationship with the dealer. You'd need to talk to your service manager, as he's the one that can dip into some discretionary money for you. Be polite but firm in your request. If you have given them business over the years in maintenance work, and/or have bought other cars from this dealer before or since, you're more likely to get help.
We had a baby and decided it was time to get a family car.
We bought an 2002 Buick Rendezvous for 13000 tax included the dealer also gave us 2 years warranty for engine transmission. but this car driven this family out of our minds. It runs great... when it runs. Sometimes it will not turn on, tries to turn over, but doesn't get gas. This has been happening more frequently and we are unsure what the problem is. My guess is the connection from the fuel pump not getting gas to start up.
This problem has left our family with newborn out in the winter cold evenings many times, including on way home from grocery.
My Buick nightmare is still going on. We bought our 2002 when I found out I was pregnant for the 3rd time. We wanted a reliable vehicle for the kids. We have had battery problems from the beginning. My husband blamed the constant but irregular drained battery on my being careless or the kids not closing the door "right". We have gone through mimimum three batteries in 6 years. We have replaced battery cables, the starter,( I was told my keys were too heavy and wore it down- I did add some church keys three weeks before but the problems have gone on much longer) and more not counting other expenses. The seal on both rear headlights failed and floded from the rain, causing problems. And one day the passenger window just failed. Three days later my husband closed that door to have the window drop and shatter inside the door. We had to replace the window and all the innards. The kicker was last fall when a gasket we were told "shouldn't have failed" did fail and we had to have our dealership remove our engine to get to and repair it. They charged over $900.00 in labor JUST TO GET TO THAT SEAL! My car is about 55,000 miles and I can't count how many times it's been in the shop. I have only had it repaired at the dealership where I purchased it so you think they would be able to repair their own vehicle. They have had it for 2 days now and all they can tell me is that I need a Fourth Battery! I know all cars have problems, but when you purchase a car new, you think it will run for at least 10 years. I feel cheated. I have Chronic Asthma and I am terrified I am going to get stranded picking up my kids from school one day. This time of year just being outside puts my health in danger, and until I get my car back I'm stuck walking my kids to school and back. Thanks, Buick.
I am tring to replace the studs on the rear hub because a few broke during the process of replacing the brakes. Can anyone help me with this process. I have FWD not AWD like most do. thank you in advace.
Sorry you have had all these problems. I grew up in a "Buick" family and never saw that many issues on all the cars put together, much less one. I feel very bad for the stress it's caused you.
My advice is that you ask to see the sales manager, sit down in his office, and explain how much hassle and cost you've been through, and remind him/her that you've used the dealer exclusively for repairs and maintenance. That will go a LONG way! Each dealer has "discretionary" money from GM that they can use towards good customers for cases like these. And 55,000 miles is not much, reiterate that all this shouldn't be happening at this mileage.
If you have a good dealer, he will offer to assist with the bill. I hope he is honest and caring. Be polite but be firm, ask for help with the bill. And do this BEFORE you go to pick up the car from repairs, not after the bill is handed to you. (Ideally this discussion would have happened before the repairs had started, because you would have had some leverage in the negotiation. You could have taken it elsewhere if he said no, even another dealer.)
From a long line of Buicks.... Brian (66 Special, 74 Century, 81 Regal, 83 Regal, 89 Regal, 97 Century... and currently 2007 Rendezvous)
Actually, most 2002 Buick Rendezvous's are lemons and if you check with the BBB you will see that also. My 2002 has been a piece of crap as long as I've had it, so bad Buick had to give me a free extended bumper-to-bumper warranty for an extra 50,000 miles. I am trying to sell this so I can buy a foreign car, as I will never, ever buy an American car again in my lifetime. Honda, Toyota, etc, will be what I purchase. Oh, and I just had my AWD disable and ABS/anti-lock brakes lights come back on only 2 months after having this fixed at dealer for 3rd time. Buick, what a classy company..... NOT!
Sorry you had trouble with your car, but all automakers have lemons. Let me tell you about my two closest friends at work. Both have a Honda made car with V6 and automatic. One went through 3 transmissions before trading it in, the other is on his 5th. One is an Acura TL, which should be the pride and joy of Honda's best engineering. The other an Accord Coupe.
Was the 2002 Rendezvous buggy? Yes.
Do foreign automakers ever make a buggy model? You bet.
I think the fact that GM gave you a 50,000 mile extension at the bumper-to-bumper level is quite honorable on their part. That is a LOT of miles!
I could be wrong, but I think your problems are actually a combination of a buggy vehicle AND BAD SERVICE. Have you tried another Buick dealer? If you don't have another one convenient, next choice would be Pontiac due to the similarities between Aztek and Rendezvous. But any GM dealer should be able to work on your car.
My reasoning for blaming the dealer in large part: The later Rendezvous are reliable. That proves GM found the problems and updated the parts to fix the problems in later years. Those updated parts are available, and are in fact the ONLY parts GM would ship to your dealer for repairs! So if you are getting updated parts, and the problems come back, maybe it's the technicians who are not doing a quality job causing you repeated failures.
I will say the techs at my closest Buick dealership have shown a lot of incompetence and I will be trying another dealer soon.
I wish you the best of luck with your next vehicle, no matter the make!
I think Brian is correct in indicating that your dealer's technicians are at the root of some of your problems. I use two dealers: one in Mentor,Ohio where I bought the car (2004 Rendezvous CX) and one in Durham, NC where I live during the winter. The techs at these two shops are GREAT. They know Buicks inside and out. The service writers listen to your issue/concerns. Although I have not had much more work, other than routine maintenace done, they did address my wheels bearing issue by replacing them ALL with the new parts rather than have me "come back when the other one goes bad". When I go in for routine maintenace, they never try and "upsell" me to something I don't need. Other than that, nothing has gone wrong after 113,000 miles of service. I have small little issues like the interior bulbs burning out, but thats because I'm in the car all the time especially at night so thats routine. Unless I hit the lottery, I will NOT EVER buy a foreign car. GM quality has improved immensely over the last decade. As with any new model, wait till the next model year before you run out and buy it. Do research on the previous model year to what issues relate to the model you purchase. Toyota, Honda, Nissan have always had issues with thier vehicles, but they are sneaky and underhanded about covering them up. My next vehicle will be the '09 Enclave, the most beautiful SUV on the road today.
I just had this happen last week. I kept feeling like my car had a bit of a drag to it, thought maybe a break sticking, bad tire or barring. A week later my AWD disabled light and my anti lock break lights showed disabled; then as I was going up a large hill and lost power. Come to find out; Rendezvous have a problem with front wheel barrings and when these go out the drive system shuts down. Once the car is re-started it will take sometime again for the system to read there is a problem. Got barrings replaced at Pep Boys; message lights are gone and system is now acting normal. Around $400 for both. See these error codes in your manual. I had no idea these items were related. Good Luck!
Ok. I just commented on this to a fellow with a 2005. I had the awd and the anti lock break errors come on after about a week of hearing a strange noice thinking my break may be sticking, a bad left tire or a bad wheel barring. Then after the codes came up while going up hill my car lost power. From the owner manual and the internet we discovered it to be the front wheel barrings; so I guessed right. Rendezvous system shuts itself down to protect the drive train/awd system. Pep boys replaced my two front wheel barrings around $400 some total. Problem is now fixed. Who knew all of this was connected. Good Luck!
I have been having this exact same problem. Got stuck in downtown Manahattan, at a gas station while having my car inspected and this last time at the waterfront in Camden NJ. All three created major elevations of blood pressure. This last time, I explained to the mechanic who responded, that I had the entire cooling system checked out and was told there was nothing wrong with the thermostat, hoses, water pump, coolant level or system pressure. After he got my car started he told me to have my electric fan checked for proper functioning. I haven't done that yet; but, since everything else has been checked, it sounds like a possible solution.
Will get back to the forum after having it checked out.
A "no start" problem is not cooling system related. The cooling system's job is only to cool the engine while the engine is running. If the engine isn't overheating while running, the cooling system has nothing to do with why the car won't start. Whether hot or cold.
Typically a no-start HOT condition is an electrical problem. Something electronic is on the fritz once hot.
Does the engine turn over when this is happening? If it's trying to start but won't.... I'd look at the ignition module and ignition coils first, then maybe ECM or crankshaft position sensor.
If the engine isn't even turning over when you turn the key.... that would point to starter first, then maybe battery....
Hope this helps! Either way, if your mechanic is looking at the cooling system for a no-start problem, I'd be looking for a new mechanic!
Comments
Kts1 is correct that intake manifold gaskets are a problem on these cars, BUT even a powertrain warranty would cover that.
And frankly... even if I had those gaskets checked out and they were good, I wouldn't own the car without the warranty. That's not really a knock on the car, but, any car over 100k will need some repairs and you said you did not want any surprises.
Buy enough warranty to cover you during your ownership and I think you will have a good experience!
Brian D
07 RDV CXL
I need to buy 4 new tires for my 2004 Rendezvous CX with 65,000 miles on it. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good tire under $100 bucks?
Thanks again,
--jason
I had trouble finding a tire store that carried 215 70R 16. I was told that it is an odd size and it would take about a week to order them. But, I was also looking for a good all season tire, so that might be why I had trouble. The tires I did put on are Copper Discovery ATR. They are about 140 to 160, but they are an excellent tire.
Alot of the tires I found that fit were around the 130 mark. When replacing tires I always shop around for the best deals on a particular tire. So just call some of your local tire stores and tell them your price range and most of them will get you pretty close.
Thanks,
--jason
Besides the Coopers mentioned, you could go with:
General Ameri-GS60
Kumho Solus KR21
Uniroyal Tiger Paw Tour SR
Based on online reviews of these tires, I would recommend the Kumhos. And they're only $61 each (plus shipping/installation). They're the best choice if you stick to your stock size.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Solus+KR21&part- - num=17TR6KR21&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&place=1&speed_rating=S&speed_r- - ating=T&speed_rating=U&speed_rating=H&speed_rating=V&speed_rating=Z&speed_rating- - =W&speed_rating=Y&speed_rating=(Y)&minSpeedRating=S#Survey
If you have time, I recommend studying TireRack's site, lots of tire info and reviews and test results available there. If you don't want the Kumhos for some reason, I can run your size through an online tire size calculator and find a second size that would be acceptable for your 04 RDV. (one that wouldn't mess up the rolling diameter and keeps the speedometer accurate)
Feel free to ask more questions, and good luck!
Brian D
07 RDV CXL
The letter states that if you think you have this problem, you should schedule an appt. with a GM dealer to get it repaired.
I wonder if this has anything to do with the gasoline smell I notice in the car sometimes.
Here's a PDF of the letter I got:
Buick Letter
No manufacturer wants the stigma of "recall' associated with their products.
Long story short... Their approach on this one is more then a political campain. Its how to reduce their repair costs.... And keeps more dollars in their pockets. To me, very unethical way to fix a known gass leak problem.
.
If your vehicle has a "high risk" of known gas leak, then a "campaign" to get it fixed is acceptable? To me, leaking gas is a human risk issue as well. Just like brakes, steering and seat belts. Too bad "the jury" is still out on their leaking intake gaskets and known electronic problems. Especially ib tger 2002 RDVs.
A "campain" is a means to keep more dollars in their pocket - by fixing less then 100% of the vehicles involved. That's the bottom line behind their political correct written words...
Something to think about....
.
Keep in mind all repair made by dealer...
In last year- have had to replace:
- moonroof -(bad motor):
-door switches (stopped working);
-a pulley (loud squelching);
-Onstar;--ok so this I saw coming,,,,,,,but since December 2007 my electric system went dead and replaced ignition switch, battery, they also found oil leak on intake manifold,,,,luckily most covered by extended warranty. But then the squelching began again so they sprayed wd40,the rain was blamed. ....
This past week,,AWD / Antilock brake lights come on --they have to replace a brake sensor and found something faulty in my braking,,also squelching now blamed on bad power steering pump,,,,again most covered by a warranty.
BUT a Problem that has been consistent is it stalls when at slow speeds, usually 5-10 miles when turning, onto a drive way, parking lot, etc,,,,,doesn't happen often,,,about 1 every four months,,,,,plenty of gas and no dummy lights,,,Onstar runs diagnostic at the time but no problems noted . Had it looked at for this problems at 19,000 miles,,,(currently at 44,000), back then no source of problem could be found, and they stated that without a code,,,,,,,Now, they state that a TSB suggests the fuse box in engine compartment be changed due to corrosion. Warranty wont cover this,,I am insisting that since this problem was originally brought to their attention two years ago,,that they cover it.. I know that was wordy,,but any one else go through this,,,,,,,,any help would be appreciated..... thanks :sick: :sick: :lemon:
If they come back saying it is corroded, then you are correct, this condition could be causing the stalling and since you brought it up to them before the warranty expried it would be covered by GM. It's important in these cases to make sure they document your complaint in the service record WORD for WORD. Don't let them get away with anything less otherwise you won't have a leg to stand on in post-warranty claims.
If they don't find corrosion, then the problem lies elsewhere.
When it stalls, does the engine sputter/cough and then stall (which would lead me to other issues than just electrical) or does it turn off very abruptly (more electrical in nature then).
Insist on this.... demand to speak to a service manager. If you don't get what you deserve go to another Buick dealer, or even a Pontiac/Chevy/Saturn (in that order, that's how familiar they would be with this vehicle). Changing a fuel tank isn't very vehicle specific.
car when comingto a stop ( no lights, plenty of gas ,no turn signal left on),,,this has happened twice before,,,so I'll will keep watch. Thanks for the advice,,,,,,,,,
1. Wheel Bearing/Speed Sensor failure.
2. Wiring harness failure.
3. AWD Control Valve Failure. (Thanks Dan Tucker, Pine Bluff, AR)
I was lucky enough to have BOTH 1 and 2 on my wife's 03 RDV. Left Rear bearing was SHOT - the speed sensor cover had rusted through. Put on the new bearing and when you applied the brakes, the anti-lock would kick in - even under light braking. I still had a problem.
So I went after electrical - it seemed logical, since the AWD Disable light would initially go off (the computer does a diagnostic every time the car is started, and apparently if it doesn't get a good signal from ALL wheel sensors - it sets the light)
Took the connector from the wheel bearing I had just replaced and soldered it to the end of a $1.00 extension cord (you need at least 9 ft). With the circuit energized, the power side of the plug should show a consistent carrier signal - mine was 4.75 volts to ground. You can also OHM them to the ABS computer connector - all connectors should ohm less than 10 (see where the extension cord comes in handy??)
After all 4 wheels run through ohms and volts - found the left front speed sensor power line broken off right at the connector. With some choice words and REALLY lucky connector work - wire reconnected and problem solved.
If you are unlucky enough to have the control valve - the part number is 88896067 and is $107 plus shipping from gmpartsdirect. You'll also be out about $75 for versatrak fluid. Pretty easy to change, I am told.
The car has 92,000 on it and the bearing was original. Don't know the age of the other 3 bearings, but I have a spare rear (from my Aurora) when it goes.
One other good thing from this - the rear end groaning with parking lot maneuvers seems to have gone away with the installation of the new bearing.
Next stop - air compressor and self leveling.
When the dealer ran the diagnostics for my miss problem - they alterted me to a Crank Position Sensor issue. I changed them (2 on a Northstar) about a month ago and not one stall or hiccup from the engine since. The miss was cured with a new coil pack.
You might have the CKS and a Camshaft circuit problem.
Buick Rendezvous Repair Manuals (Set)link title
Widespread electrical "gremlins" like that usually tie back to the most common of power sources in a car, the battery. I would start by making sure the connections at the battery terminals are solid, tight, and clean. Inspect battery for any evidence of leaking/cracks in its plastic case.
For some reason that switch does not work. The only way that I can open the liftgate is with the remote.
I tried opening the cover (inside the liftgate) for the tail bulb replacement and found out that there is a yellow/black wire with a 2-pin socket at its end hanging there.
It seems like that this wire has come lose of the switch and needs to be plugged back in.
Now my question is that does anyone know how to remove the panel inside the liftgate to access that switch from inside.
If I just remove the panel covering the Tail Lights, that is too high for any work to be performed on the liftgate exterior switch. It seems like the whole panel at the bottom of liftgate needs to be removed.
All your answers will be greatly appreciated.
Please Help!
I think if you were to disconnect the negative battery terminal for a little while (10 min might do it, overnight might be better) that might clear the warning.
If it's just the buttons themselves, they look pretty easy to replace. If you bought a set from your local used auto parts store (aka "junkyard") it probably is something a friend / mechanic could replace at a fairly low cost.
The bearings where under warranty for me.
Whether you get help from GM on the problem or not depends very largely on your relationship with the dealer. You'd need to talk to your service manager, as he's the one that can dip into some discretionary money for you. Be polite but firm in your request. If you have given them business over the years in maintenance work, and/or have bought other cars from this dealer before or since, you're more likely to get help.
We bought an 2002 Buick Rendezvous for 13000 tax included the dealer also gave us 2 years warranty for engine transmission. but this car driven this family out of our minds. It runs great... when it runs. Sometimes it will not turn on, tries to turn over, but doesn't get gas. This has been happening more frequently and we are unsure what the problem is. My guess is the connection from the fuel pump not getting gas to start up.
This problem has left our family with newborn out in the winter cold evenings many times, including on way home from grocery.
Got any suggestions, please reply.
did fail and we had to have our dealership remove our engine to get to and repair it. They charged over $900.00 in labor JUST TO GET TO THAT SEAL! My car is about 55,000 miles and I can't count how many times it's been in the shop. I have only had it repaired at the dealership where I purchased it so you think they would be able to repair their own vehicle. They have had it for 2 days now and all they can tell me is that I need a Fourth Battery! I know all cars have problems, but when you purchase a car new, you think it will run for at least 10 years. I feel cheated. I have Chronic Asthma and I am terrified I am going to get stranded picking up my kids from school one day. This time of year just being outside puts my health in danger, and until I get my car back I'm stuck walking my kids to school and back. Thanks, Buick.
Sorry you have had all these problems. I grew up in a "Buick" family and never saw that many issues on all the cars put together, much less one. I feel very bad for the stress it's caused you.
My advice is that you ask to see the sales manager, sit down in his office, and explain how much hassle and cost you've been through, and remind him/her that you've used the dealer exclusively for repairs and maintenance. That will go a LONG way! Each dealer has "discretionary" money from GM that they can use towards good customers for cases like these. And 55,000 miles is not much, reiterate that all this shouldn't be happening at this mileage.
If you have a good dealer, he will offer to assist with the bill. I hope he is honest and caring. Be polite but be firm, ask for help with the bill. And do this BEFORE you go to pick up the car from repairs, not after the bill is handed to you. (Ideally this discussion would have happened before the repairs had started, because you would have had some leverage in the negotiation. You could have taken it elsewhere if he said no, even another dealer.)
From a long line of Buicks....
Brian
(66 Special, 74 Century, 81 Regal, 83 Regal, 89 Regal, 97 Century... and currently 2007 Rendezvous)
Oh, and I just had my AWD disable and ABS/anti-lock brakes lights come back on only 2 months after having this fixed at dealer for 3rd time. Buick, what a classy company..... NOT!
Was the 2002 Rendezvous buggy? Yes.
Do foreign automakers ever make a buggy model? You bet.
I think the fact that GM gave you a 50,000 mile extension at the bumper-to-bumper level is quite honorable on their part. That is a LOT of miles!
I could be wrong, but I think your problems are actually a combination of a buggy vehicle AND BAD SERVICE. Have you tried another Buick dealer? If you don't have another one convenient, next choice would be Pontiac due to the similarities between Aztek and Rendezvous. But any GM dealer should be able to work on your car.
My reasoning for blaming the dealer in large part: The later Rendezvous are reliable. That proves GM found the problems and updated the parts to fix the problems in later years. Those updated parts are available, and are in fact the ONLY parts GM would ship to your dealer for repairs! So if you are getting updated parts, and the problems come back, maybe it's the technicians who are not doing a quality job causing you repeated failures.
I will say the techs at my closest Buick dealership have shown a lot of incompetence and I will be trying another dealer soon.
I wish you the best of luck with your next vehicle, no matter the make!
All the best-
Brian
Will get back to the forum after having it checked out.
Typically a no-start HOT condition is an electrical problem. Something electronic is on the fritz once hot.
Does the engine turn over when this is happening? If it's trying to start but won't.... I'd look at the ignition module and ignition coils first, then maybe ECM or crankshaft position sensor.
If the engine isn't even turning over when you turn the key.... that would point to starter first, then maybe battery....
Hope this helps! Either way, if your mechanic is looking at the cooling system for a no-start problem, I'd be looking for a new mechanic!
Good luck!