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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair



  • Thank you, I will have that looked at today. What I don't understand is that in my owners manual, it says that the fuel gauge bouncing around is normal. I can see it from how the gas tank it, but seriously....what other vehicles do that? I will give the c-305 connector a look over. Maybe it will help things out. As of now it's not a huge deal. We have actually gotten used to it.
  • cassandrajcassandraj Posts: 16
    edited September 2011
    Just got finished dealing with this moaning issue. I was also told that I needed rear differential work that would be over $1200. We went and had rear differential fluid changed around $100+.

    **However, Standard Rear differential fluid does not remove the sound when you have a buick. You must buy the actual Buick Rear differential fluid from the buick dealer.

    Then you drive your car in doing several figure 8's in both directions and that fixed my problem. Much cheaper than $1200. My husband did this in about 20 minutes himself on this second round. I was advised on the internet that you want to change this fluid about every 20K miles with Buicks. I am glad my car no longer sounds like a moaning old person.
  • Well it's nice to hear that filling the rear diff fluid worked for you. I am keeping my fingers crossed that it works for me as well. $100+ for having this done is a bit pricey, we were quoted $60 dollars using the Versatrac gear oil from GM which is $35 a pint here, and my truck needs 4 pints.

    I will also be adding changing the rear diff oil as a regular maintenance thing. I would much rather spend the $60 for the fluid change than the whole rear end. IF I do need a whole new rear end, I have a friend of the family who is a mechanic and he is going to build the rear end for me, instead of having my mechanic order a *GULP* used one. I can't see paying $900.00 for a 94k used rear end, that would take a crap 30k miles down the road, to just have it done all over again. I just read that your husband took care of the rear diff oil change. Buying the oil is crazy expensive!!! I have a mechanic here willing to do the whole thing plus ordering the oil for the $60.00 And yes I will be watching to make sure it's the correct versatrac oil.

    It's much more cost effective to just build the rear end than to buy one.
  • I just took my 2004 Rendevous in today to have it checked out. the problem I am haveing is that when I am driving at any speed and hits small or big bumps my rear left tire does a bifg bang' like it is not supporting the constant ruff road driving along with a humming noise when i turn my wheel left or right, more of louder noise when turning left. Anyway, I have been told that I need some work on my rear Differential bearings, meaning that my rear end is collecting rock in the bearing of the "Diff' and that I need to replace them. It is supposely gonna cost around $400 to fix, maybe less if he can change the bearings of the "Diff"in under 4 hours. I was reading in one of the forums on this sight that I should have a second opinion before having this expensive work done when it could have been something a little bit simplier. should I do by what the mechanic says and have this work done or see if I canhave it done a little bit cheaper.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Too hard to be sure from your description if it's suspension related or drivetrain. Describing the type of noise you hear "when turning left" might help us. But it's still hard to diagnose over the internet. Reputable shops generally give free estimates, especially the independent ones. I would get a second opinion and go from there. If he really has to replace bearings in the differential, $400 doesn't seem out of line.
  • Please be advised that one has to have an excellent battery and its needs to be charged.

    With all the electrical equipment on these vechiles today, u need to monitor the charge.

    We do not drive much lately and on a trip i noticed the Buick was not running that well, i figured it might be the gasoline, but I use " LUcus injector fuel system cleaner).

    Well when i got home i cked the battery and found it to only have about 200 amps on the load test - I charged the battery and now it has a 600 amp after load test and it runs alot better. I now keep a $5 trickle charger on it nitely so the charge is strong.

    Donot ever buy a cheap battery - Get one with 3 yr full replacement free, 7yr pro rated after that, the different may be $30, but its worth it in the long run.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited October 2011
    A float charger may be a better choice since some battery sites say that fully charging a battery for prolonged periods can damage the battery. (link)
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186

    Maybe I misunderstood your advice to everyone, but something isn't adding up.

    Your car started just fine, and you left on a trip. During the trip, you felt the engine wasn't running up to par, is this correct?

    Although it's possible your battery is getting old and not holding its charge, and that may be happening based on your low load test measurement, you have or had another problem going on as well.

    Once a vehicle is started, it doesn't technically need its battery to run at all. The alternator creates the electricity needed for the engine to run and all of the electronics as well. If the engine, once started, is not running well, AND the reason its not running well is due to insufficient electrical power (which your load test alone doesn't prove) then your alternator isn't creating the voltage and/or current it should be.

    Putting your battery on a trickle / float / slow charge each night shouldn't be necessary, even in the harshest of climates and even if its sits for weeks. If it really runs better on days after you've charged it compared to days after you didn't charge it, either the alternator is not up to spec, or the battery has a problem, perhaps even a small internal short between cells.

    What voltage are you getting with the engine off? Should be around 12V. What voltage are you gettting with the engine running? Should be close to 14V.

    Lucas fuel system cleaner is good stuff, provided you don't overuse it, but if you did have a bad tank of gas it can't fix that. It does almost nothing to help get any water out of the gas which is the most typical "bad gas" issue. It contains detergents that will clear intake valves, clogged injectors, etc.

    In the future if you feel you got a bad tank of gas, the best additive would be one bottle of something like Sta-Bil moisture absorber/gas stabilizer. Dosage per label.

    As I said, maybe I misunderstood something, let us know so we can better assist you. And keep enjoying the Buick -- I come from a long line of Buicks so to speak :) 61 Special, 74 Century, 81 Regal, 83 Regal, 89 Regal, 98 Century, 07 Rendezvous.... and too many other GM's to bother listing. :)

    Hoping for a 2013 Regal GS next, what a beautiful car.
  • my 04 buick rendezvous has the dash light that shows the door adjar is on
  • If all the doors are fine, then it a bad interlock switch at one of doors, u need to find where they are and check them with am electrical meter, they are probably behind door panels.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    edited November 2011
    Need to "trickle charge" the battery every night? This one caught my eye.

    This statement reminded me of our other GM vehicle. When vehicle sat still for 4 days, its battery would be dead. We'd charge the battery and it was good for the next few "consecutive" driving days. After driving, we'd check the battery's charge level and it was 100% ok. Even checked the GM vehicle's charging system and it was 100% ok as well. Yet. If battery sat idle for a 4 days, it was dead again. Very weird!!!!

    To make a long story short (and 2 trips to my local GM dealer), they discoverd it was the battery. Seems the < 6 month old battery would "self drain" itself (after sitting idle for 3+ days) - even all "reading" tests showed it was 100% ok. GM dealer replaced battery under warranty and its been running great afterwards...

    Perhaps your vehicle's battery is the same??? re: It's self draining itself as well....

  • how do you remove a harmonic balancer bolt that is stripped left or right
  • i have an 06 rendezvous bought new 6 years ago.
    just over 100k miles. been great no problems. no accidents
    a few
    months ago it developed a creaky left front suspension.
    it will happen with all small suspension movements
    culminating with one last creak when i get out of the
    car. attempts to push down on car hood to move
    suspension yield no squeaks or creaks. does not
    squeak first 5 minutes of driving car.

    here are the parts i have replaced. lower control arm
    with bushings and ball joint. all new. mevotech from
    rockauto. new sway arm bushings. moog from advance
    auto. new shocks (needed), monroe. new strut mount
    (while in there since struts are a pain in this car)
    . remanufactured
    left front axle (i punctured boot when changing strut -
    found grease all over the place a week later). axle was
    still fine.

    about the only thing i have not changed is the steering
    arm ball joint. that may next. any ideas??
  • Just an update on the above post. I just took the car out for a drive. It is cold here in MA (20 degrees). It squeaks from the get go. As soon as I pulled it out of the driveway it started squeaking. One thing I left out in the previous post is that I also replaced the sway link between the sway bar and the lower control arm (just a large bolt with some rubber bushings and a bunch of washers). All bolts in there are real tight including the horizontal (rear) and vertical (front) bolts on the lower control arm, the sway bar bracket bolts that hold the sway bar bushing around the sway bar to the subframe, the 2 large strut bolts to the top of the axle yoke, the strut bolt to the strut mount, the 3 strut mount bolts (impossible room inside engine compartment to get to these) to the chassis, the sway link bolt and nut and the ball joint nut on the bottom of the yolk.

  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    It could be any of those rubber to metal contact points. They all need to be lubed with a synthetic (preferably) grease before assembly. For example, you want to slather the swap bar and the inside of the sway bar bushing with grease before mounting. Assuming you did that and the squeak is still there, you're going to have to find a shop that has a drive-on alignment rack, or, a pit, so one person can create the squeak while another person is listening for its location.
  • Thanks for the info. I think I put lithium grease on these before I put it back together. Maybe that is not good enough. I will get under the car later today. I don't recall if the balljoint and tie rod ends have grease fittings. If so I will pump some grease in there. If that does nothing I will get some good syn grease and re-mount the sway bar bushing.

  • My 2002 needs the head gasket replaced. Has anyone had any luck getting GM to help out on this repair? I don't remember if these were recalled back then, but it was definitely a notorious service issue with a borderline defective (or very poor quality) gasket and it was already replaced under warranty at just under 3 years old. Should this be happening again now and will GM help on the repair?

  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    So it was replaced the first time, around 2005? 7 years later.... technically speaking GM of course doesn't have to help you.

    I think you mean lower intake gaskets, not head gaskets?? The head gaskets were generally pretty good.

    With that said - if you have a cooperative dealer you can get some help. Unfortunately its up to the dealer to go to GM on your behalf and ask for help and it's hit or miss on whether they will do that. If you have been a customer of there's over the years for maintenance items they are more likely. Or the louder you raise a stink in front of other customers.

    Its unfortunate.

    If you do pay out of pocket, I suggest you go to a trusted independent shop to pay for the job. They will use Fel Pro gaskets (ask for them) which have metal reinforcement in them and will not have problems ever again. Used them and love 'em.

    Good luck. I love my 07 Rendezvous, hope you get yours fixed as painlessly as possible.
  • So this car was fully serviced. It has a new engine with only 30,000 miles on it. The car has about 110000 miles total I believe. Running fine until transmission trouble now. One the way back from being serviced it poped out of gear. You can start the car put it in gear go a short distance then it seems to pop into neutral and won't go. Then if you shut off the car put it in gear and go again(for a short distance). What would cause this? I have some mechanics saying its the sensors some saying it needs a whole new transmission. Has anyone had a similar problem? Does anyone know what to? This is frustrating. :sick:
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    What was being serviced at the visit immediately before the trans problems started? Was it a transmission service?
  • No. It had a tune up, oil change, new tires, new transmission fliter, and the transmission fluid changed.
  • Update: I still have my '04 RDV, it currently has 191,126 miles on it...since my last post in '07, I have replaced my left wheel bearing (replaced myself and saved 350 bucks) and changed my transmission fluid at 125K...other than routine (scheduled) maintenance I have had no major issues...minor things like power window button wore out...replaced it for 20 bucks, replaced the steering wheel control lights and shocks. I have yet to replace my spark plugs and I still get 25mpg on the highway. I recently purchased a 2012 Enclave CXL and I love it!!! Has every option I could want (Dual moonroofs, running boards, power seats both sides, in dash nav system, etc.) Sweet ride, I would surely recommend it to anyone. And no, I do NOT work for GM/Buick, although I have been buying Buicks for 35 years and swear by them
  • Why your gas gauge dont work ' Its not your wires not your gauge , I have fix 5 Buick Rendezvous with gas gauge problems , this will take about 2 hr to fix , you will need a person to only help take the tank down and back up , Your problem is your sending unit , you dont need a new unit . i have pictures to help out more , this is how to fix it .. take out your tank remove the pump . Lay your pump on something clean , on the side on the pump is the sending unit there is a safety clip on the top take it out , sending unit has one also and slide down sending unit , there are 2 black wires on the board thake that board out of the plastic , clean the board . were the float arm hook to there are 2 prons push them down to make better connecting you are done
  • By now you probably have sold that RDV but I have a 2005 RDV that was still under warranty and had the same fuel gauge problems. The dealer replaced the tank sensor, and the dash cluster and still no fix. After many return visits they finally showed me a tech. letter that was put out for the 04',05, and 06's that had the problem and not to replace the instrument cluster which the dealer had already done. The tech. note said that engineering was working on the problem. I finally took them to court and got a judgement against GM where they had 30 days to either fix the problem or give me a new car. A week later the dealer called and said they had the fix which was a new program for the instrument cluster. That seemed to fix the majority of the problem although I still don't trust the gauge.
  • kerryt1kerryt1 Posts: 1
    I've had this car just three weeks and twice it hasn't started. My son, a mechanic, came over and tapped on the ignition module and it started. Today again it wouldn't start. The dash lights would momentarily light up then go black. No ignition sound at all. In fact, after I got out I stood bythe car *with keys in hand* and heard a constant WTH is that? My husband put it on a charger for a few hours and it started. Should I replace the ignition module? What was that buzzing and clicking? Oh, I might add that both times I have gone out to find the car dead the keys were in the ignition (off position). My son says that has nothing to do with th problem. Just throwing that in there.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,652
    I might be thinking about power problem, Battery,cable/connection/ charging issue. Those are usual suspects, but it could be the module
  • 1wildpete1wildpete Posts: 25
    I had the same problem - first thing to do is replace the battery. I have replaced my battery a number of times. For some reason these cars use a lot of battery power while they are off. i even put a charger on my battery over nite. Good luck, ps is your battery under warranty ? Do not buy a new one if it is, have them replace it.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Some cars retain power to some circuits if the keys are left in the ignition. I'm not sure if the RDV does. First thing is, stop leaving the keys in the ignition when you aren't going to drive the car again in 10 min or less. Just to rule that out.

    Weird buzzes, clicks, abnormal dash lighting, all tends to happen when a battery is deeply discharged.

    If the key isn't the culprit, I would replace the battery next.
  • lllabratlllabrat Posts: 12
    I would recommend replacing the battery. I have a 2006 rendezvous bought new 6.5 years ago. It has 105k miles on it now. I have replaced the battery every 2 years. They just seem to go faster in this car. It does not help that I have a lot of electronic accessories hooked up all the time (XM radio, GPS, multiple cell chargers, an inverter etc etc). I also installed an on-board trickle charger that I plug in if the car is going to sit more than a week. I still don't understand why the battery drains faster than my other cars (or for that matter my 98 honda motorcycle can sit for months with no charger and it starts on the first click). Other than that the car has been great with no major problems.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,652
    'I still don't understand why the battery drains faster than my other cars '

    There are quite a few things on todays vehicles that remain hot after it is turned off. Alarm, radio security. something that will respond to key fob when needed and others. I saw something a few years ago meant for dealers that stated they should start even new vehicles on their lot every 2 weeks to ensure the batteries don't drain down. As a battery ages, they should be charged back up even sooner.
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