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Comments
Is that true? I really need to know this, because I will have two kids sit in the rear seat, I really don't want them to feel boring if we are on a long travel.
Better deals will definitely come soon as 2013 models will be arriving after July (less than two months away). As for the RES, I am not impressed with the manufacture DVD unit. Town and Country and Sienna have the option to watch DVD at the front LCD while the car at Park. The Honda does not or I have not figured it out yet. Also, when the rear LCD screen is opened all the way, the screen goes blank. It’s not a high quality DVD in every way and it cannot worth $1500. If another DVD after market can interface with the main console of the car, I would consider it over the manufacture DVD unit.
Thanks!
Traded in: 2008 Mercedes ML350 (44k miles valued at $23500 by every dealer in the area including this one - we owed $2500 less)
Purchased: Honda Odyssey EX (no Nav / RES)
Came with: XM satellite radio (free for 3 months) & rear camera
Out the door check: $3005 included TTL
Monthly payment: $325
Residual: $19k
Feedback??
Thanks.
Thanks for your answer. In that case, I think I will look for deals for EXL with RES.
Thanks for your answer. I think I will wait for the independent day and see if I can get a good price for EXL with RES.
Odyssey Touring : $37100 + title/taxes/reg/docs = $40050 OTD. No extras. Took delivery last week.
Final price with all document fees and destination is $32, 399 not including TTL. Not sure if this was a good deal in this area or not (there are not many posts in the Midwest).
They gave us $15,000 for our 2007 EXL Odyssey with 57,000 miles, new tires, a cracked windshield, and several dings, and Honda extended warranty. I thought this was pretty fair.
Took the 0.9% for 60 months.
Didn't discuss the $750 dealer cash.
They did say that we would have to take one off the lot for this price and we would have to pick it up by Thursday so they could get it on this months paperwork.
This is the second Odyssey we purchased here. I had a lot of trouble with the '07's brakes so I didn't think I would buy another one (air in the break lines but they couldn't fix it after a recall and 3 tries).
So first I went to the Toyota dealer. The salesman said that a Seinna XLE starts at $38,000 to $40,000! :mad: I walked out! It made Honda look really professional and if this hadn't happened, I may not have gone back to Honda and bought another one! :surprise:
Superior Honda was really professional and didn't give us any run around.
Touring, smoky topaz and truffle
MSRP: $41,990
Sales price (including all fees): $37,435
Trade: $1500
OTD (including 8.65% tax, ouch): $39,049
0.9% financing for 60 months
Thanks so much to all who have posted here!
(now I'll try not to look at the June incentives as I don't want to know if it makes it a better deal!)
good luck
The best offer as of now is $38.7k ( includes destination). Feeling like I should wait. Thoughts? Of course we want a black one and that is a harder find in PHX.
:P
Thanks
I am in NJ and don't mind traveling.
We negotiated a 2012 Honda Odyssey Touring Elite Gray/Gray with the sales price of $41,300 (before doc, tax, tag and title).
We have the following options:
Wheel locks
Splash guard
cargo tray
all season mats (a must with kids)
roof rail with cross bars
moon roof visor
door visor
door step sills (nonslip)
body side molding
My tax rate in Georgia is 6% for my county, plus they have a $499 doc fee.
I got 0.9% APR for 60 months. I also negotiated the extended warranty for $1850 for 8 years/100K and we did not have to pay upfront since it is part of the 0.9% finance.
The overall buying experience with both sales and finance department were excellent and the people treated us very well. The entire process took about 3 hours.
The dealer I went to is Gwinnett Place Honda on satellite blvd. Please refer me (send me an email for my name) since I was told we both get $$ for referrals.
I hope the information is helpful with your Honda Odyssey car shopping experience.
Please understand this information FYI and is subject to change as always.
Glad the numbers helped you. Ironically, until I got these from Spreen the best pricing I was seeing on a Touring was from Tracy Honda in your area. They were nice to work with-I suggest you contact them.
As far as where you buy, it doesn't matter. In my youth I used to try to get better prices from the dealer by promising to have all my warranty and service work done there-but they never cared. I see folks writing about a different attitude in other parts of the country (dealer offered lifetime transmission warranties, pre-paid oil/service contracts, etc...) but I have never seen that in California-at least at the 20 or so dealers i contacted for my deal.
Simon implied that he could get me the same price on the next delivery of vehicles this week. We were specifically discussing the Touring at the time so it is worth keeping in touch with him.
As far as the best time of year to buy I don't believe that there is one. Each dealer has their own reasons for needing to move cars at a low price. Some feel pressure at the end of the month, end of the quarter or end of the year. Assuming that many dealers fiscal quarter ends on June 30 I'd expect a saavy buyer to get a better deal then than on July 4th. But manufacturer incentives may kick in which throws everything topsy turvy again.
End of model year is generally thought of as a good time to get a deal, but keep in mind it has already depreciated a full years worth compared to the 2013 sitting on the same lot. Depending on how long you keep your car you may be better off in the long run to get the newer car and get that back when you sell.
You are on the right track by being on this board. If you are in the ball park of the numbers posted here you are already getting a better deal than most. Good luck!
-------------
End of the month. Great time to buy a car, end of the quarter is even better. The notion of walking into a dealership and haggling them down using your verbal judo is a recipe for wasted time. 90% of the time they will not give you the price you want. They are paid to be there and you are not. They have a simple recipe, grind the customer down until you sign or leave. If you leave they usually chase and give a small concession then restart the process.
Below is the recipe i recommend. Three to 7 days is about the time to get to the best price:
.5 Go to www.trucar.com and get a quote on the exact vehicle model you are looking at. This is to get the ball rolling with the dealers. (thank you vanpire for this advice)
.75 (Optional) We are very lucky to be shopping for Odysseys. There is such a large volume sold and posted to this board that you have access to the pulse of what they are selling for across the country. First thing I did was to click back several pages (3 months worth) and make notes on each clear sale price so I would know the range to expect. I only used prices that showed base price, clearly indicated it included destination fee and and dealer doc/prep fees. Those that just showed with TTL are not useful as I don't know what their tax rate is. Those that show trades are also not useful because we have no way of knowing what the trade was really worth to the dealer. The difference of just a couple grand throws the pricing way off. NOw this step is optional because it doesn't directly affect what your price will end up being. But it will tell you when you are close to what you can expect to be about as good a deal as there is to find.
1. Go to Honda.com website and click on "find dealer" (DON'T use the request quote button).
2. At that point, select "request a quote" next to each dealer after you have list of dealers.
3. Fill out your info. don't put a phone number down (use 858-555-1234), you call them if you want...they don't call you.
Ask for the following:
- Obviously request model your looking for in dropdown.
- In "comments" section put something to the effect:
Would like a detailed quote on an EXL RES. Please itemize charges: Base Price, destination and document fee; only extras should be tax, title and license. I would like your best possible price, as I intend to purchase this weekend. Additionally, please include the color selection that you have available. I'm checking with several dealers in the area and will be purchasing shortly, so your promptness and bottom line is appreciated.
I already have a quote on this vehicle from trucar.com for $xx,xxx but am looking for a better price. I look forward to your reply.
Don't give them your phone number, if their serious, they'll put it in writing.
- Press Send
Note that I don't insist they give the OTD price with Taxes and DMV fees. You'll see why in the next step.
4. Go Back to "find dealer" enter your zip and you'll get the same list. select "request quote" by the next dealer and this same form that you initially entered will be available. just press send.
5. Repeat to at least 8 dealers in your area. If your in a metro area. I'd send to everyone EVEN the closest.
6. Go Back to "find dealer" yet again and put in the closest major city, other than your own and repeat. Do a google search on that city for 'Honda High Volume Dealer' and make darn sure you get that one. By not asking for an OTD price you do not need to disclose your zip code for tax rate information. This keeps the dealers further away more interested. No-one wants to invest time if they think you are not serious. Please do keep your requests to venues you would be willing to travel to in order to buy.
7. Finally, think about brand new Hondas you have seen recently with dealer ads instead of plates. If the dealer is not close by the reason may be because that person found it worth while to travel to buy their car. Find these dealers either on the Honda site or via Google. If via Google just look through their website for a 'Contact Us' email address or 'Request QUote' button.
8. Go to your credit union, capitalone.com or whomever your comfortable with and get your own financing. You should have a check in your back pocket when you go to buy the car or their going to bend you over. The big players will overnight you a blank check. This is an important step as many dealers will give you a great quote then try to make back a few thousand on a poor interest rate. You won't know until you get there and try to sign paperwork at which point they have you at a disadvantage. Best to be able to whip out the check and tell them, cash deal please.
9. Check the Honda rate for specials. But DO NOT assume you will qualify for it. Some dealers will offer you 4.9% while Honda offers .9%. Guess who pockets those four points of interest. 'Cash deal please.'
10. Sit back..you're in the drivers seat.
11. Wait for quotes to come in.
12. You'll find out who's serious.
- some will give you HIGH price
- some won't respond so go to their website and request a quote with same info as above. Some will try to track down your phone number and call you. Unless your time is not valuable do not answer. Nothing they need to know they cannot ask in email.
- a few will give you a pretty aggressive price
- you may end up with a clear cut low ball great price
13. Forget about the morons that ask you to call them for an appointment (The VIP treatment means getting bent over). On the ones that are really high, if you want reply and tell them they are off by whatever the diff is between them and your lowest price. i.e, "you're off by $2600, if that's your best shot, I'll pass thanks".
14. Once you start receiving the offers try to break them into apples/apples comparisons. If you did step .75 you can know when you get a really good offer. Now it is tempting to start the back and forth right away. I'd wait a few days or at least until you get a clear cut low price.
15. Once you get the clear cut low price contact that dealer to confirm what colors they have available. Try to get them to tell you what they have rather than what you want. At this point ask for an OTD price. Ask if the price is the same for a cash deal or does it require financing through the dealer. If the latter be on high alert through the sales process. Easy to jack the rate to cancel the otherwise
Now, I'm at finance trying to sign all the paper work and the guy kept trying to get me to buy the extended warranty and the security system.
I kept telling him no then I got on the phone with my friend to make sure that it's not something I should get. My friend confirmed and when I was done with the phone call. The finance guy said "It's all in there now. You should just get it." Handed me the contract to sign. I hesitated and told him it was too much I didn't want to pay $2,000 for a security system. He said it's an investment and kept saying I should get it and get the car to drive home. It's only $30 more a month.
Now, I've been at the dealership since 3pm. It's now 6:30pm. I thought it's just an accessory I can come back and return it since they didn't really install anything just the chip and the GPS is not yet installed. I went home and got an ear full from the wife and the friend when they found out I got the security system.
What are my chances of returning the security system. Please help if you have an experience dealing with this situation. This is my first car purchase ever. I had no idea the tricks they would do. I know I shouldn't have signed the papers, but I felt like my hands were tied and I really wanted the car for my wife.
So that's for the extended warranty, as for the security system. If it is in stock and they have not install on the car, then you should be able to argue and get your money back. I would rush to the dealer and make sure that they have not installed the security system. Otherwise, if they have installed it, then I guess it is all too late. When you refer to the security system, does it include remote start? If yes, then the price you paid isn't too bad I suppose. Good luck resolving your issue.
Car (including Destination and processing fee):
$30,524
MD State Tax:
$1,831
Title and Registration:
$320
Total, Out The Door:
$32,675
What do you think of that price?
thought this might be helpful to someone.
Good luck.
This is a pretty expensive lesson for me. So much for doing all the research and reading up on everything about buying a new car. I let my emotion get the best of me. Next time I will make sure to get someone with experience about these things with me.
Anyone want to know more details about what happened and how to prevent it from happening to you, I'm more than happy to share my story. But basically, don't get the alarm or the GPS tracking they are trying to sell to you. It's not worth it.
Your financing terms should be set before you walk into the finance office. Anything else you buy at that point is pure profit for the dealer and will turn your good deal into a crappy one. Any warranty you might be tempted to buy can be bought later, at a better price.
For our Black Ex-L W/RES w/ Truffle interior my OTD was $32,394 (.9%/60 months) which obviously doesn't include sales tax...but that's what I owed the dealer. To help narrow down the last few dealerships I had them price different options (some I wanted...some I was just curious about) and I ended up getting the all-season floor mats $213 and roofrails with crossbars installed $537. The difference in price on the options was shocking. So adding those all together my personal OTD was $32,946. I did all of the haggling online and ended up going with St Louis Honda (Mungenast) and dealt with Clayton Patterson and Joe Basler. They responded quickly and were professional. My original low quote came from Todd Albrecht at Frank Leta Honda but we had trouble trying to get a range of possible money for my trade in. That was the toughest part of doing business from almost 3 hours away but it all worked out very well.
Our only trouble was with the Finance guy. Thankfully my wife and I had already decided we weren't getting ANYTHING he tried to sell us. We had to get a little pushy "NO...we do not want ANY warranty...fabric guard...paint protector or anything!". I'm glad it's not my job to talk people into crap like that. I will shop for a warranty online (btw his offer for 120k 8yr was $1490)
Otherwise great experience thanks in large part to this forum.
Thanks.
Does anybody knw some good deals upto 31000 or below in ca especially southern ca with no additionals on the vehicle. if pricing is very good elsewhere i am also ready to travel to northern ca also
2012 Odyssey ex model in Alabaster Silver, with the Truffle interior.
$28,191.00 =sale price , including destination charge
$199.00=dealer process fee
$899.40=Md taxes,6%
$324.00=Md fees , new tags and title
$29,613.40=total on the road price.
Is this a fair deal for an EX in Maryland? I'm pretty sure they miscalculated the taxes so idk if they will stick to this or not.
. I paid for gap 599 + extended warranty 1329 for 7 yrs /75000 miles.
I am not pushed to take the warranty but he told me I can cacel this any time.
Can you advice is it a good deal and let me know if any warranty better than I have , will go for it.
thaks
I definitely overpaid on the warranty. But I shopped around and got $1390 for 8 years at 100K, 0 deductible.
I cancelled my original extended warranty purchase when I purchased the car. More paperwork and when they tell you that you must come in to cancel, that's BS, just tell them to fax it over. They do that to stall you even more!
Get it from your auto insurance. I have liberty mutual car insurance, and it was like $60 a year until the entire finance is over, so for me it is 5 years. That will be $300 instead of $599.
We have been given a quote for 40,002 out the door.