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Comments
I can't remember ever accidently pushing the OD button on mine.
:confuse:
Don't you have to take your eyes off the road for a considerable time to insert a pen or pencil?
Personally, I like the switch where it is, and use it occaisionally when I want to kick up the power.
Stevdebi in about three months with this retrofit. I used the switch once and really you don't have to take your eyes off of the road.
Aznskittles - You don't need to buy Honda fluids (except for the rear diff).
I would suggest you stay away from aftermarket antifreeze. I don't know about the 2004, but the 2005 CR-V has BLUE antifreeze. If the main reason for buying Prestone over OEM Honda is price, the difference is negligible. But, if Prestone has minute amounts of silicates, you may as well kiss good bye to your water pump. While silicates act as lubricants in other makes' pumps, they act as abraisive in Honda's alluminum water pumps. To replace water pump ($100 part) it will cost about $400 in labor. Is it worth it, just to save a buck on antifreeze?
I get a vibration (shaking the front cupholders and coins in the ashtray-type rattle) when I'm city driving and accelerating at about 30-45 MPH. At first I thought it was an uneven road. However, highway driving/fast acceleration, no rattle.
Someone told me I needed an alignment. Could this be causing the problem?
This also started after I got 4 new tires. When I bought them, they said they balanced them.
Somebody else said I'm ruining the "bushings"?!
Please let me know if I need to get this car in ASAP and what it could possibly be - $ or $$$.. It's been doing this for about a month.
THANK YOU
An wheel alignment won't cure this and you aren't going to ruin any bushings.
the fact it started right after you bought your new tires should have given you a clue something was amiss.
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1114758000000_1115622000000_05-022/index.html
I found it at another good HONDA website where they discuss mainly about SUV s
I went to a dealer, and they told me it was “normal”. Well, I have never heard of anything like that happening in a new car. But to make sure it was not just my imagination, I tried two other CRVs: a new 2005 model on the dealer’s lot and my friend’s car, which was a 2004 model. The new one did not make the clunking sound at all, and the 2004 CRV did make it sometimes, but not as noticeably as my car.
Has anyone noticed such a clunking sound? It only happens when you shift into Reverse through Neutral. Is it “normal”? I am pretty sure the sound was present from the beginning, but now it seems to be more pronounced.
By the way, my CRV had the “pull to the right” problem too. The dealer performed TSB 05-022 (post #3000 by Maferna) and fixed it.
Thank you!
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1114758000000_1115622000000_05-022/index.html
Has anyone had this done and did it fix the problem.
I have ridden in and driven, literally hundreds of CRVS and I have yet to feel one pull to the right or have a customer comment on that!
Now, someone will quickly jump in and try to discredit me because of what I do for a living...sell Hondas.
Still, if you are that scared, you should probably buy something else.
The dealer couldn't tell me when the 2006s are due, but he knows that they are continuing to manufacture 2005s thru July, 2005. He also didn't know what slight improvements -- if any -- will show up on the 2006s, nor was he aware of the possible price increase. His guess was that if Honda follows its usual trend, the 2006 model may cost $200-$300 more -- which would make it worth it to buy a newer model, depending on whether they'll knock off around $1000, which they WILL do with a 2005.
Thank you!
In this instance, we are not discrediting because you sell Hondas, we discredit you because you are not aware of the extent of the problem and have yet to drive a vehicle that Honda now admits pulls to the right. What you need to do is start driving the 2 wheel drives where most of these problems exist. It's easy for anyone to state that they have not experienced a problem if they have never driven the year and model of car that exhibits the problem or have driven a limited amount. That's like me saying I've driven in hundreds of Fords (which I have) and never experienced the PTTR problem. Although, true, the reason I did not experience PTTR is because I did not drive the Year and model that exhibited the PTTR (i.e. SHO edition of Ford)
Since you continue to conveniently leave out your prior assessment of why you have not experienced PTTR, let me keep the public up to speed with your statement:
"Someone mentioned this is more of a problem on the 2WD models? In my neck of the woods these don't sell very well...I've probably sold maybe three since 1997. IF THESE DO HAVE A PROBLEM I WOULDN'T KNOW SINCE I CAN'T REMEMBER THE LAST TIME I WAS IN ONE.")
I would appreciate if you would add the above statement that you previously made in one of your posts to all your future comments to the readers' inquiries into this subject. That way, I do not have to continue to monitor you.
Your statements, although perhaps true, are more than a little misleading and yet you continue to make them. Steve
Yes, as I already said, they fixed the PTTR on mine. They did rotation first, then alignment, and neither helped. Then they called the Honda Service Line and were told to do the TSB 50-022. They did it, and it seemed to fix the problem.
I have a different problem now -- a clunking sound when you shift from Drive to Reverse. Has anybody noticed it or is it just a single-car problem??? Please, let me know! Thanks.
I don't need to be "monitored"
The vast majority of CRVs sold nationwide are 4WD so I doubt many people would need to have a concern. Just drive the car first and make sure it doesn't have a pull. Easy.
I'm not saying there isn't a problem - since Honda issued a TSB there must be one - just that if you really gun any CR-V, you will feel a little drag to the right. I haven't noticed it myself, or maybe I compensate automatically. But I never noticed it, even on my initial test rides.
The new model year Hondas usually show up at the dealer in mid-to-late October or early November.
I have a 2003 CRV EX Automatic - 24,000 miles (39,000 km), great shape, well maintained. I am a conservative driver. Must say I loved the car. That changed.
About 5 months ago noticed a dramatic reduction in mpg (from about 27 to 19 highway - 9 l/100 km to 12.5 l/100 km) and it seemed to rev higher (at 60 mph (100 km/hr) at 2350 rpm vice 2000 prm). 0-60 mph is now about 12 secs. It was peppier. Dealer ran a number of computer checks and nothing came up. Said all was OK. First indicated cold weather, 240 straight highway miles was OK on a full tank, then my tires (215R7515 vs 205R7015) were the likely cause. Same tires since purchase. I don't agree this is the cause (2/5th of an inch wider) for such a dramatic change and wanted to check with this forum berfore I spend $500 on new tires. I feel I am going through the motions and the problem will not be solved.
No incidents to explain other than a boost but dealer ruled that out. I think there is some bad info going into computer (sensor?) causing car to work harder and burn more gas. Asked to confirm all wheel drive wasn't engaged but did a wheel turn test on hoist and all was well. Other than computer tests at idle and 2180 rpms (VSS of 55 mph/91 km/hr) and fuel consumption run, no parts replaced. No codes, no MIL lights.
Any ideas? Very frustrating, costly. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Max.
I don't know for sure in the 2nd Gen CR-Vs (2002-2005), but the manual transmission 1st Gen CR-Vs (1997-2001) did _not_ have the mounting bracket in the driver's seat like the automatic transmission models. There was an accessory armrest available for the passenger side.
jjproducts.net sells an aftermarket armrest that comes with a mounting bracket you install, that fits an driver's seat armrest to a manual transmission CR-V (either 1st or 2nd Gen, LX or EX). It's covered in the same material as the interior so it'll match the seats. It doesn't look like they have a leather wrapped armrest for the SE models.
My second test drive at dealer B was in an EX 5 speed and again it pulled dramatically to the right any time I let go of the steering wheel. It did this while coasting or accelerating, but went straight under braking. I again demonstrated this to the salesman and he acknowledged the pull and also mentioned that most of them did that. He even said that he went in to talk to the mechs about it and said that they said there was nothing that could be done about it. He also said that people even notice it when they do the test drive but buy the car anyway. I told him that I would never buy a car that pulled like that, but that if he got a 5 speed in that didn't pull to give me a call. He pretty much gave up on the sale at that point, and I haven't heard back from him.
By the way, both were EXs and both were built in England. I think that most of the England cars go to east of the Mississippi and the Japan built cars go west of the big muddy. Just what I think.
I would certainly recommend taking a copy of the TSB in with you for your test drive if you are serious about buying this car and don't accept any vehicle that pulls like that in the test drive. Have it completely fixed prior to signing any paperwork.
Thanks to the folks who posted the link to the TSB! I plan to take that in the next time I go to drive one if the dealer ever gets a 5 speed in stock.
I have a 2005 EX manual, I just spent an hour this saturday at the online parts dealer actual shop ( http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com ). They let me take out the storage arm rest and play with it. While there are holes for the armrest mounting in the frame and the storage one comes with its own base, the bolt holes don't match with the base, but the swivel hole matches. My options were to drill holes in the seat frame (tough job) or in the arm rest base. The stock holes are not treaded either, the ones on auto are threaded. The storage armrest has adjustable tilt, which allows for it to be position in such a way that it is not interfiering with shifting.
I decided to wait until JJ products comes out with 2005 armrest, the interior colors are different from 2002-2004. Although the storage armrest from Honda is for both driver and passenger (wide) and it costs alittle over $100, I think I will go with JJ products and get separate driver and passenger arm rests (almost $200).
I had the guy look up the armrest parts from the auto CR-V, seems like you would have to buy a whole bunch of parts to put it together at a cost of $170 a pop.
I also noticed that center tray in the manual is inverted. The cup holders are toward the rear (not to interfiere with shifting), while on the auto the cup holders are to the front.
It is still worth getting manual, the joy or control and speed is not comaparable with minor conviniences that arm rest brings. My last car did not have arm rests either (2002 Civic Si)
I'm not saying there isn't a problem - since Honda issued a TSB there must be one - just that if you really gun any CR-V, you will feel a little drag to the right. I haven't noticed it myself, or maybe I compensate automatically. But I never noticed it, even on my initial test rides.
CR-V is primarily FWD, with AWD when needed. Many other SUV's are primarily RWD, with 4WD or AWD engaging the front. There is no torque steer in RWD. Honda knows how to eliminate torque steer, you need equal lentgh drive shafts, like the V6 powered Accords and TL's. Although, I don't think CR-V has a torque steer problem, it more poronounced on un-even pavement with any FWD car that has more than 100 HP.
Thanks to those who pointed out that torque steer does not affect RWD; I was assuming Hondas, which are all FWD or limited AWD.