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Comments
In my state, generally speaking, if a manufacturer is required to buy back a lemon, the mileage of the vehicle is recorded on the third time the vehicle is taken to a dealer or other repair shop for the specific repair.
In my case, by the third time, there were approximately 1000 miles on the vehicle. The law recognizes that a vehicle should last 100,000 miles. 100,000 miles would equal 100% of the value. Therefore, in my case since there were approximately 1000 miles on the vehicle at the time the dealer tried to fix the problem for the third time, 1% (about $216.00) of the 'out the door' price ($21,600.00) was deducted and Honda was responsible for paying me 99% of the original cost (about $21,384.00). This rule is intended to prevent manufacturers from dragging their feet in settlement because any loss to the consumer ends as of the mileage on the third attempt to cure the problem. Steve
Do you have any advice for shifting? Should I ever really use the gear shift? I know to keep the O/D on...
Should I try to keep it below a 5000 or 6000 RPM or is it really okay to rev that high?
Just want to keep it in top form and am going to drive it on a cross-country road trip next month, so...
Thanks!
Have had no problems charging the phone.
I enjoy reading this forum and will be back. Gonna look for an Odyssey forum
good luck
Quietman
I bought my "99 CRV new and nothing ever goes wrong with it. My wife likes it so much that we bought a second '99 CRV a year and a half ago for her. You made a fine choice. Wait until it snows, (if you get snow where you are and yours is an All Wheel Drive). I call my CRV "The Snow Buggy" in winters up here in Calgary because not even snow up to the axles can stop it, (and that's with all season tires rather than snow tires!).
When I test drove this 05 CRV Special Edition, I had noticed a distinct tendency for the vehicle to pull to the right. It felt like a wheel alignment problem and I thought little of it at first. I thought the problem would eventually be easy for the dealer to fix. I cancelled my order to the CRV as soon as I read your post. I even copied the article off for the dealer. They had no comment. What a bummer because I really liked the vehicle. In fact, I like it so much that I am thinking of test driving another one just like it at another dealer to see if it steers the same way.
Thanks again for all your info.......it really saved me $25k of headaches.
Regards....
Jeff
While there is a lot of discussion here about the PTTR issue, it really is pretty rare. The 1st Gens had the same problem, as the did earlier years of the 2nd Gen. It is not just a 2005 model year issue.
Having said that, I'll repeat the part about it being rare, and also add that if the CR-V you test drive does not have the problem, it won't develop the problem in the future. Just make sure you insist upon a test drive before accepting any CR-V.
Good luck.
Just leave the O/D on, and floor it when you need to go... Don't worry about the revs... let it go all the way up to redline, if that is what the situation calls for.. Honda engines are extremely durable.. occasionally using all of the engine's potential will not harm it.. Let the engine and transmission do their job, and you'll have nothing to worry about..
Once you've become accustomed to the car, you'll learn to carry a little more speed into situations where you will need it... Like, accelerating more briskly from the beginning of the on-ramp, instead of waiting until you are closer to the merge..
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanx.
It has been hot here but I have not noticed a problem with the leather.
Also, no problem keeping it clean.
The only way to deal with rust correctly is to remove it. That usually involves sanding or grinding the metal until the rusted area is completely removed, then appropriate body work to restore the body panel to the original contours, then applying primer and paint to restore the finish. Talk to a couple of local body shops about how much they will charge for the work.
Good luck.
Please define sludge? To me sludge is tar like substance found in oil that has not been changed for a very long time. If the oil is indeed loaded with sludge, like you indicated, I don't think the engine would even run.
Exactly, the sludge would not be adhering to the dip stick. OP posted that oil on the stick was full of sludge. Dip stick is high up in the oil pan, if there is sludge it would be at the bottom, not up by the dip stick. This is why I was interested in OP's opinion as far what sludge was.
I assume you are asking about the rear differential (pumpkin).
They have a cap with a nozzle, I just squirted the fluid into the hole. Some people have used a funnel with hose. The "other" site has more detailed info.
Now I’m noticing the top of the steering wheel having wear (likely fading from sun, etc.); and a slight “clunking noise” from under the vehicle while turning the wheel from one side to another at low speeds, i.e., while parking. (too new for CV joints as it only has 54,000 km).
Is this “normal” for Honda CRVs? I know I’m fussy, but I think of Honda is renowned for quality and should expect no less. Anybody have experience with similar problems or are these problems just unique to Canadian imports from the Japan model CRV?
As always, thanks for your input.
I have them on my new SE and they work fine. I told the dealer about the complains of the noise that were appearing on this forum so the tech muffled it a little.
The sound is not harsh and the sensors do a great job of warning me. The steady tone come on when I am about 12-18" from the object.
Thank you
I was comforted to read that the high engine revving is not a problem, but just how the engine and transmission works in the CRV! The gears shift very smoothly in our SE, regardless of the RPM. The engine revs more, the more power we want. I was very nervous that I was applying too much acceleration for the CRVs 4 cyl engine.
I just need the reassurance that we don't have a transmission problem... I appreciate any additional encouragement!
Thank you very much!
rigg
Why did they need to turn the rotors? Did you experience shaking when applying brakes? Was there diminished braking ability? If you answer no to both questions, I think you need to find a more honest shop. Yes, brakes are not covered under warranty because they are wear and tear items, neither are tires, clutch, belts, fluids, light bulbs, and other stuff explained in the owner's manual.
I have a 02 CRV with just over 51K miles. CEL came on about a week
back, got the OBD2 code last night which is P1457 (Evaporative
Emissions EVAP Control System Leakage EVAP Canister System). I stopped
at the dealer this AM, and actually got a copy of TSB 02-026 dated May
28, 2002. It states that the fix is inspect/replace EVAP two-way
bypass solenoid valve. They are checking on the parts availability,
but it appears to be about $70 for the part and another $70 for labor.
- any one familiar with this code?
- could it possibly be fixed with a new gas cap? old cap was tight
- is replacing this valve a DIY type project?
- the wife and I are taking a road trip monday to Atlanta ~650 miles
one way...is this safe to drive or do i risk doing serious damage?
- i still need to reset the CEL and see if it re-appears
thanks!
-mark-
auburn63, "Honda CR-V Owners: Problems & Solutions" #692, 26 Dec 2003 11:16 pm
I have a 02 CRV with just over 51K miles. CEL came on about a week
back, got the OBD2 code last night which is P1457 (Evaporative
Emissions EVAP Control System Leakage EVAP Canister System). I stopped
at the dealer this AM, and actually got a copy of TSB 02-026 dated May
28, 2002. It states that the fix is inspect/replace EVAP two-way
bypass solenoid valve. They are checking on the parts availability,
but it appears to be about $70 for the part and another $70 for labor.
- any one familiar with this code?
- could it possibly be fixed with a new gas cap? old cap was tight
- is replacing this valve a DIY type project?
- the wife and I are taking a road trip monday to Atlanta ~650 miles
one way...is this safe to drive or do i risk doing serious damage?
- i still need to reset the CEL and see if it re-appears
thanks!
-mark-
See if it is covered under the extended emissions warranty. In some years, it ran for 8 years/100,000 miles. My 2005 Warranty booklet says it is only 3 years/36,000 miles.
I did try disconnecting the battery with no success. My warrarty expired(2002CRV) in Jan and the dealer said they don't fix cd players but they could install a new one for 1,600. Did you get yours fix?
I bought my used 2003 crv without owners manual. I disconnected my battery when i went on a vacation. I dont have the card that you were referring in your discussion. now my radio is asking for code. Pls let me know that is there any other way to activate my radio or where can i get that card?.
jamal
I bought my used 2003 crv without owners manual. I disconnected my battery when i went on a vacation. I dont have the card that you were referring in your discussion. now my radio is asking for code. Pls let me know that is there any other way to activate my radio or where can i get that card?.
jamal
Option A: Take the radio out, take the serial number to your local Honda dealer. With proof of ownership, they will give you the code.
Option B: Find what dealer originally sold the car, they may have a record based on VIN number.
Option C: Sometimes dealerships affix a sticker with the code on the outside of the glove box. It can be seen when fully opened.
Option If you bought it privatley, contact previous owner for the manual and the code.
I did try disconnecting the battery with no success. My warrarty expired(2002CRV) in Jan and the dealer said they don't fix cd players but they could install a new one for 1,600. Did you get yours fix?
Contact Honda corporate, they may cover the repair as coutesy. You can buy an aftermarket for much less or same OEM radio on ebay for $200. Install is "plug-n-play." Radios from Accords, Civics and other Hondas will generally fit and won't require wiring modifications if they were from 1999 and up vehicles.